Day 7. February 5, 2020. Owaka day rides. 245km.
Yeah, the sun has returned! In a similar fashion as to when you get sick, then when good health returns you seem to be much more grateful than before your illness... Today's sunshine was greeted with a warm smile of appreciation. The chickens (no rooster to wake you up early 👍) and the sheep kept right across from my apartment by the innkeeper looked especially bright and picturesque owing to the morning sunshine. We slated two nights in Owaka amidst the scenic south Otago and Southland coastline so that today we could explore every bay, cliff and waterfall along a 100km stretch and that's exactly what we did! We aimed for the well known Purakaunui Falls around 8AM. A ten minute walk took us through tropical looking forest with huge trees and ferns along the swollen stream bed. The massive bolus of rainfall had swelled these falls to probably 10 times their normal volume. Picture is below. 👇 We then had sights on a cafe in Papatowai but since nothing was open (before 10) we looped down to the beach and then aimed for the coast. We veered off the pavement as we wound down Tahakopa Beach road to find our first good look toward the Southern Ocean. Many don't count the waters north of 60°S as the Southern Ocean but we are at the limits of the Southern Pacific @ >46°S latitude and nothing between here and Antarctica. The South Island sports many rugged cliffs to the water with interesting rock formations trying to hold back the light blue waves. On our first foray to the south coast, we were met by a herd of cattle all looking curiously at us. Four of them abreast all with different coloring were an attention getter. A private resort and a farm fence forced a retreat before making it all the way to a bay or overlook but we had the rest of the day ahead of us. We then wound along gravel and dirt on Puaho road maybe 15kms back to the paved road. Next stop was the Florence Hill lookout. Here there was a Spouting Cave on an offshore island noted by a sign and visible as the waves crashed on one side and were channeled out a blow hole. There was also a mesmerizing view of the waves rolling in a long bay to meet a curved, pristine beach. Wow. It was breakfast time and rode to the Whistling Frog cafe/campground another 12 clicks down the windy road. More then one time it was said how beautiful the road/scenery was. Had a tasty hot chocolate garnished with a chocolate covered fish-shaped marshmallow cookie. 😋 Also enjoyed bacon and eggs on an English muffin and hash browns. Couldn't resist a raspberry white chocolate muffin also. Each item came garnished with a colorful, small edible flower for a fancy flair. We met up with our motel neighbors spending 7 weeks riding around NZ on their beautiful Aprilias. The woman has a fancy Tuono that made Ted a bit jealous (he has one). We also met a couple North Island riders on their way to Invercargill and the rally. We had met them briefly at Florence Hill and they shared some stories from their first Burt Monro visit, two years earlier.
The next stop on the South Coast was Curio Bay. Before we got there, we were abruptly stopped by a sizable herd of cows on the road. We didn't move forward and got some good pics as one of the nearby bulls eyed me warily as I eyed his horns... A car pulled up behind us and he said to go ahead. Since I am on a bike I invited him to lead the way. We followed as he slowly approached and they did yield but the road was narrow and the herd didn't have a lot of extra room. As we made it 3/4 of the way through we saw four dogs and a herder moving them up the road, eastward against our flow. Nobody was gored. I imagined that I might encounter sheep on the road but hadn't given much thought to cattle. A couple spots to date I had seen no fence for the sheep but all had steered clear of the road. Mostly all animals have been fenced in so far, however. I wish the Curio Bay pics did it justice. It is a campground and there are well manicured expanses of grass all the way up and along the top of the cliff/overlook. With waves and rock formations nearly 270° around you it is almost overwhelming.
Moving west, the next highlighted stop was Slope Point, the southernmost point in the South Island. A 20' walk through a breezy and grassy headland brings you to a lighthouse and a famous yellow marker sign. The end of our westward swing was the "town" of Fortrose. One cafe and it was packed. We settled in to two of the only empty seats. People were standing and talking and at least a dozen riders were there. After salmon and prawn salad was ordered we took in the atmosphere. Busy and fairly loud. Then, the noise reduced and we heard a woman's voice. She addressed the entire restaurant and wore a yellow vest and a walkie talkie. She was with the Dept. of Conservation and announced that we were being evacuated. She reported that roads both east and west of Fortrose were closed due to rising waters and that everyone was instructed to head to higher ground to the town hall of Tokanui. We tried to absorb this news. I imagined a cot at best, maybe a cushion if I was lucky to sleep on the floor of the town hall. We were told that civil defense was set up there with more information about the situation. In order to add gravitas to her proclamations, a helicopter then took off right next to the Fortrose Cafe. Turns out it was a news chopper looking to get footage of the disasters unfolding in Southland. I was not excited to spend the night. We talked and agreed to try to make our way back 90km to Owaka. She told us the road was closed eastward at Papatowai. Riding now with a purpose as it was 1:35 and the "wall of water" was expected by 4 we cruised with more silence than usual, wondering if the 60km ride east would just force a return to Tokanui or elsewhere. Each car stopped along the road at first seemed to be the police waiting to turn us away. As we approached Papatowai we rounded a curve and there they were. Sirens lit, parked obliquely and blocking our left lane completely. Ugh. We stopped and he started to walk over to us. Instead of telling us to turn around, he waved us through. Huge relief! We heard stories the rest of the day if people turned away at that same checkpoint and also at Balclutha. Having no idea why we were let through but grateful for our gamble paying off, we got gas and cruised into Owaka by our motel and took out our lunch and ate it outside the closed Lumber Jack cafe. A Dutch couple, a Swiss couple, and a group of four bikers all approached us to discuss the state of road closures and how/if travel west to Invercargill was possible. According to the news no travel to/from Invercargill is possible today. We must check out tomorrow AM and have an apartment rented in Invercargill the next three nights so fingers are crossed that the highest floodwaters have passed the Makarewa River there.
After lunch and a brief return to the motel, we headed east about 32km to Nugget Point lighthouse. Recent rains had caused a loss of roadway with some washout, some mudslides and some flooding but it was possible to make it to the parking area. We also passed a sea lion beached with a couple of intrusive cameras aimed at him as we passed by. A 900m walk hugged the sheer hillside where bushes and small trees sometimes grew completely over the trail in spots, like a vegetative cave. The white lighthouse structure appears after 10 minutes or so and it is connected by a narrow ridge line trail. Dropping off on both sides it is terribly dramatic to approach. The panorama at the lighthouse doesn't disappoint and this day was such a visual feast. A bit of a splurge on dinner. As all tables at the Lumber Jack were reserved, the proprietors accommodated us at the bar and the upscale fare was delicious. I got a cream of cauliflower soup followed by lamb lollipops and lamb shoulder with Israeli couscous, and some fruits and herbs I can't recall now but it was very good. Fingers crossed for tomorrow and as it is well after midnight I'm signing off.
