Explosing Fashion
Making, Unmaking, and Remaking Twentieth-Century Fashion
Alistair O’Neill
Lannoo, 2021, Tielt 304 pages, 22x27 cm., With over 200 illustrations,hardback, ISBN 978-9401476058
euro 58,50
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Exploding Fashion unpacks the role of innovative pattern-cutting in key examples of 20th-century design. This book 'explodes' key dress designs by five game-changing fashion designers held in the world's leading dress collections, and reverse-engineers them to understand how they were made and once moved on the body. It brings traditional ways of making into dialogue with new ways of visualising, illuminating haute couture and prêt-a-porter methods for a visually-driven, digital age.
The project ‘explodes’ the mystique of the fashion design process in two ways. Firstly, it deconstructs the myth of the designer as sole creative genius by uncovering the intriguing role of the pattern cutter. Secondly, it reverse-engineers five historical designs by game-changing designers who were also innovative pattern cutters, digitally reanimating museum objects as moving images which visually narrate how these things were once made, and how they moved on the body. The designers are Madeleine Vionnet (1912-1939), Charles James (1928-1978), Cristóbal Balenciaga (1936-1968), Halston (1957-1983) and Comme des Garçons (1973-ongoing)
The research team consists of professional pattern cutters, historians, curators, and digital visualisers. Situated at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, the project bridges fashion design practice and academic history and theory, and draws on its expertise in both areas to produce innovative fashion thinking that is unique to London’s status as a fashion capital that excels in design, education and curation.
06/11/21
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