#patternreviews

[bambinidelmare]

2022/04/07 Winslow Culottes Wrap Hack :: Flat Felled Seams

Date started: 04/02/2022

Date completed: 04/07/2022

If someone told me it would be more than a decade before I tried flat felled seams again I wouldn't believe them, but here we are, in 2022, and the last time I tried this seam was in 2010. It's not rather complicated to do, but I tend to become quite confused when sewing things that are not familiar, and flat felled seams just happens to be one of those perplexing to me things like french seams that 50 percent of the time I end up completing wrong. On our recent vacation to the Mendocino coast, I took my machine outside and watched the same video numerous times until I was clear on which version of the flat fell I wanted to use.

To commence, you can start RST or WST, and I chose to start WST and finish it on the outside. As lovely as linen is, the tendency to fray is challenging for someone like myself who really wears their clothes.

For the crotch area, I shifted to RST, and did the method taught in most schools which is trimming down one side and pressing to finish. I know everyone loves to use sergers as they are quicker, but I personally find that finish a bit unnecessary in home sewing. Why make your own clothes if you don't finish them beautifully?

Storytime Detour: The epic fail of the pandemia was a lovely pair of wrap pants from a Japanese sewing book that I made in a very expensive gauze and got huge holes in the bum area on the second wear as I was working in the garden. I was pretty upset because the fabric was purchased from a well known retailer in our area, and they charge about 2 to 3 times more per yard for cloth. Needless to say, it was an epic failure. Now, I only purchase cloth from Merchant and Mills, Tessuti, and a new to me local company called Lyrical Fabrics that offers lovely deadstock and currently, tonnes of gingham!

My sewing space was incredible. I purchased an extension cord in town and set myself up to sew with the birds and listen to the ocean. So restorative for my sensitive nervous system.

I think I have enough patterns for the year. In 2022, I am looking forward to rediscovering what I have already purchased and sewing from what I already have. I do purchase new patterns to support makers I appreciate, but I don't need to print anymore patterns at the plotter as I printed more than enough last year.

Size Sewn: 2, no mods. For reference, I am 5' 7"

Project 002/012 of 2022 were these wrap pants. What will project 003 be? Stay tuned for more.

[bambinidelmare]

Seamwork Ruth Pattern Review

Sewing the Seamwork Ruth Top

Date started: Saturday, April 24th

Date completed: Sunday, May 2nd

I finished my Ruth top in the morning and decided to wear it in the  afternoon. This was my third time sewing this garment and I honestly thought I would have my dress completed before my top. As soon as I picked this fabric up from Stonemountain I knew the plan changed and cut right into it. I didn’t even prewash it. It's called Kokka - Cotton/Linen Sheeting.

This came together easy and quickly. About half of the top was sewn by hand, and I am so proud of the finishing.

I had a bit of a sewing fail when I attached both sides of the snap the male direction and had to remove the second one. My hand sewn stitches were so secure I almost ripped the fabric as I tried to carefully take them out. Next stop, hand bound buttonholes. I have a long torso and didn’t need to make any mods. I am 100% team Seamwork. I absolutely LOVE their patterns and their block fits me so well. If you are thinking about subscribing to Seamwork the answer is a resounding yes! The patterns are so easy to sew and they have such an enjoyable community with a really wonderful user experience.

Total sewing time: 8 hours or so. Mods: Extended peplum by 2” Size Sewn

My measurements are 5'7" (170cm ish), 32.5-25.5-36 and I cut a straight 0.

[bambinidelmare]

Burnside Bibs (Both Versions) Pattern Review

Burnside Bibs

Started Early September 2020 Version 2 Completed 8th of February 2021

Version 1 Started 26th of March (pattern pieces already cut and marked beforehand)

Completed 27th of March 2021

Presenting the Burnside Bibs!  I purchased this pattern in July at Josephine's Dry Goods (Bini convinced me they are awesome), and I was so excited to enjoy these into Winter. A season late, but on time for our brisk mornings and the Mendocino fog. These took so long. I spent a few hours on a rainy day cutting out the pattern and sewed for a good 8 hours on the next. I cut a straight size 2. I could have sewn it smaller, but I like to eat. For modifications, I extended the torso by 1” and when attaching the lining to the inside I slipstitched instead of machine sewed. Kelly Hogaboom has an amazing sew along tutorial on the Sew House 7 blog which made the process a breeze, thank you so much! On November 2nd, I had a full day of sewing where I blasted through the majority of the steps and then arrived at the zipper. After the third time re-installing the zipper, I realized I needed a break, so I took a lot of months away from this project (although on the 29th of November I was 95% finished.) The fabric for my version is my favorite supple 10 oz cotton brushed bull denim twill from Drygood Design. I originally planned to use it for a pinafore pattern for one of my own patterns, but I realized I wanted something comfortable for the garden instead. The practicality of this pattern is truly out of this world. There are pockets in all the convenient places and they are deeeeep. I could care less if a dress has pockets or not, but bibs need pockets-for hands and such.

The second version is version 1 without a zipper no modifications in size 00 for my daughter. She saw me working on my pair back in September and kindly asked me to sew some for her as well. It must have been her tone in asking, but I felt compelled to do it. I am absolutely terrible at finishing her makes, and want to change this trait. I started hers on Friday and finished them on Saturday with the force of unfinished baby projects graveyard propelling me to complete a garment for her! I can be quite the special fabrics hoarder and this one was no different. This RJR Solid Cotton Supreme was purchased last year from Drygood Design, I had a lovely drop waist dress planned but my daughter had an eye on it too and why can’t I share?

Sewing the second time around was a breeze and I finished her pair under 24 hours, a first for me. I did cut a rather large hole in her pant leg and was able to mend it with some help from friends. Bini told me this pattern was great, and the hype was real. Peggy created some real magic with this pattern. The instructions and the process was all so lovely and comprehensive. I am currently preparing to sew my third pair. Total sewing time for my pair: 16 hours

Total sewing time for my daughters pair: 6 hours

On a side note, I was waiting to post this because I wanted the perfect pictures. The week of Spring Break had other plans for me because I just wanted to relax and not be a model mom, so these are the shots we got! Thanks Minimalist Machinist for the inspiration!

[bambinidelmare]

Peignoirs and Practicality

In thinking of peignoirs, there is one word that I tend to leave out: practical. Is it sensible to sew only what your heart desires? Where does this leave practicality?

Last summer, I collected some Muu muu patterns as they were at a vintage shop. They are not really my personal taste, but I realized that I lacked nice flowy house clothes that are loose around the crotch as I prefer, so maybe sewing one up would be both a practical and sensible option. First on my list to sew was this Vintage McCalls 3902 as it is the correct size and minimal pieces to sew. It came together simply, and was straightforward without much direction. I must admit the finished garment was quite underwhelming. I had a dream of how to make this piece look somewhat digestible (in my tastes). I say underwhelming because I prefer looking elegant or casual chic. I don’t think this falls into either category, but recently, I no longer enjoy wearing pants and this definitely is the next best thing. It is a good palette cleanser pattern, and came together within 8 hours or so (I did a lot of handsewing on the inside for a clean finish). The inside has french seams and despite this, I will be taking this apart to rework it into something more fitted (possibly with smocking)? We have had some wonderful rains the past week that has made our normally dry and brown hills the most beautiful green, reminiscent of Maui, which I miss dearly. I have recently been sewing about every other week as I have had lower amounts of energy. With the full moon in my moon sign this week, I am excited to see what ideas come stirring. What are you sewing this week? This is my first completed peignoir for my series: The 12 Peignoirs of 2021. Next will be Vintage McCalls 6299, although it is a size XXL and much too large for me, it will be very easy to grade down to my specifications. I do not skip making toiles and ended up making one for this garment as well, sizing it down by a few sizes.

Do you prefer to sew for fun or practicality?

Don’t mind me, I’m just here matching the cows.

[bambinidelmare]

Covid Houseclothes Reimagined Pattern Review: きれいな服 (Clean Clothes) by Aoi Koda

Started January 2021 Completed January 2021

2021/01/20 Covid House Clothes Reimagined.

It's a skirt, it's a pant, it's Japanese! I recently made these delectable wrap pants out of black double gauze from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics. I was so excited when I saw the pants in the book きれいな服 by Aoi Koda. After having a near meltdown when opening the patterns in the book 濱田明日香 by Asuka Hamada, I swore off tracing stacked patterns until I was ready. Here we are one year later, finally sewing some garments that have been high on my making list.

I made view 6A, a perfect skirt/pant hybrid, roomy like a culotte. In this instance, having B&W instead of color on the pattern sheet made it much easier for me to trace off (less confusion). I made a straight size 9, (and it ended up very large). Main areas with fit challenges were the waist, where I ended up needing to pleat the waistband 2.5" and the front pant piece, which I cut incorrectly after having a conversation with my dear friend Karen on matching up the diagram images (it ended up 2.5" too large on both pieces).

I started my french seams correctly and realized in my late-night pattern cutting, my pieces were facing the wrong direction. Black gauze is hard to distinguish once washed! Instead, I finished the insides by reinforcing the seams with a simple zig-zag stitch after my serger came unthreaded (and I felt lazy). This was 100% machine sewn (aside from a prick stitch to tack my pleats down), which is extremely rare for me, but since these pants have purpose for camping, I would prefer not to have my garment fall apart while tree climbing with my daughter or on a hike with friends. I am a notorious pin dropper, so I don't bring hand sewing on excursions that have us sleeping close to the floor (yet I still sew in bed). I actually made a toile before cutting into my fashion fabric, but I didn't practice the waistband application, which would have been better to try in advance. During the process, I was compelled to draft my own pieces for the waistband and side ties, but I like to follow the designer's process initially to get a chance to assess the fit. This pair is for all of our summer trips, but I will make another pair to wear around the house. I don't like to not get dressed in the morning, I feel a bit lost without some freeform structure, so this will be the perfect garment for my sort-of dressed kind of days. Currently dreaming of sleeping under the stars. I see why people sew many versions of the same pair of pants. I like to have fewer clothes and know everything I own, so I will move onto greener pasture after pair number two. Top is self-drafted (cotton/linen blend) and a pattern I planned to release last June. Then I realized everyone had an oversized top pattern and decided to focus on other items. On a whim, I added slits on the side.

To create the neckline facing, I used the scrap fabric (pictured below). To finish the neckline facing, I used two rows of prick stitches 1/4” apart.  A few things were a bit off so I am going to develop it more for funsies. However, you will see a wrap pant from me in 2021. Those are my favorite ;)

Makeup is by Nudi Goods. A favorite of mine.

My mask is Japanese too! A cute kawaii kitty fabric I picked up last year from Josephine Dry Goods as well as comfortable elastic. If you have not visited Bini's shop it is definitely worth a visit!

P.s. This is my first 100% made by me outfit in a looooong time. I am very proud of myself.

[bambinidelmare]

Pattern Review: Wiksten Haori

Wiksten Haori

Started November 2019 Completed October 2020

Presenting the finished a few weeks ago Wiksten Haori Coat! A cult classic of all sewists, I originally thought Jenny was a Bay Area local and flocked to A Verb for Keeping Warm to purchase the physical pattern. Once it was in hand I realized this pattern was special. The way these are packaged and presented is like a lost art, revitalized again once in your hands.

I am so happy I finished this coat. It only took me a year. I spent more time reading the instructions than sewing, but I generally do this to ensure less confusion on my end while sewing.

I don't even recall the size I cut. I would imagine it was the small, and I am sure I can search for the traced pattern in my box of tracings.

The instructions were easy to follow, and I hand sewed about 90% of the garment. The wool was gifted by my father from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics. Growing up in Berkeley and Oakland, this is a store I spent way too much money at whilst I could not afford it. Their quality is so high and their curated selection is the best.

Everything was fairly easy. I wish I did not interface the collar as the flannel I used (from my stash, probably from Joann Fabrics), became stuck and created some unattractive bunching. The finishing of the collar confused me so I made up a different way to finish.

The only downside for me is that the arms feel short. As I made this a zero waste make, I am not sure if I used what I had and made adjustments so the arms ended up shorter, or they are too short for me (I am 5'7" 170cm). I will need to look into that.

As a perfectionist I am learning to let go of certain items and trust the process. It is more about the journey than the destination, and I am not perfect. The garment is comfortable, serves a purpose, and was made from the last fabric my father purchased for me before his passing.

I am thankful that I finished a thing, and a meaningful thing at that.

This has been such a distracting year and anything that is getting accomplished feels like a major success.

Life is about cycles. If sewing teaches us anything, it is that creativity is also a cycle.