This is my friend Kenny at Zero’s during the last swell. The first time I met Kenny, I had hitched a ride to the beach with my friend Rod to go surf Malibu. Kenny drove and we all had a fun day surfing, but on the drive home I remember I said something dumb and out of line (which in my younger days I was prone to do). Kenny immediately pulled off onto the dirt shoulder of the road, jammed on the e-brake and brodied to a big dust cloud halt. He then looked over to the back seat and said, “Get out!” I remember thinking in disbelief what’s the deal with this guy. I think it may have been the first time in my flambuoyant teenage years that somebody called me on the carpet. I learned that that’s one of the things real friends do. Me and Kenny have gotten a lot of great waves through the years. And funny enough I think Kenny is marked more by his big smile and encouraging words than anything else. So thanks Kenny for that day long ago that you gave me a nice wake up call. 5’1” x 19” x 2 3/16” #Postmodjet twinny in teamlite poly construction with hand done marble-ized resin art. Kenny is 40-something, 5’4”, 130lbs. https://www.instagram.com/p/CGSlO-cHZh1/?igshid=7t3kk70zbnl6












