surf report 10.30.11- BIG + BARBARIC!
Last night's storm continues to blow at 25-35mph this morning with gusty winds shifting into the NW. The New England south coast was mainly in the shadow of this wave event.
Long Island buoys are showing a 5 ft ten second swell out of E/SE.RI is probably not seeing much of this due to the more easterly swell direction. From the Cape on up past Portland Maine however, the scene is quite different at 8 AM:
Station 44018 (17 mi NE of Provincetown) 27 ft at 11 sec N/NE, water 54 deg
Station 44013 (16 mi east of Boston) 14 ft at 11 sec., water, 54 deg
Station 44029 (SE of Cape Ann, Stellwagen Bank) 16 ft at 11 sec., Water 54 deg
Station 44098 (50 mi east of Newburyport, Jeffrey's Ledge) 20 ft at 11 sec East, water 52 deg
Station 44030 (East of York) 14 ft at 11 sec, water 53 deg
Station 44007 ( 12 mi SE of Portland) 10 ft at 11 sec, water 51 deg Further analysis of the buoy data at
Station 44098 reveals 2 primary swells: A 13ft eleven second easterly swell and, A 17 ft ten second swell from the E/NE.
When these two phase together in the surf zone, expect some 20ft + faces on east facing breaks like the outer bar at Plum Island. Cold water, gusty offshore winds and large swell make for dangerous conditions. Head out only if you know what you're doing. Otherwise find a more sheltered break. This isn't Hawaii and there aren't many people available to help you if you get into trouble.
Knee to waist high left overs will spill ashore tomorrow morning with calmer offshore winds. Right now models seem to agree upon another cyclone forming further offshore and spinning itself out next week.
We should have significant E/SE swell from this storm Wed-Friday, along with more favorable weather onshore.