A delicious and divine gift
During our last stay in Oaxaca, we had the opportunity to eat at the Comedor Prehispánico de Tlaltilac, Oaxaca. I had read several articles regarding this diner specialized in a stone cooked fish broth. The Council of Elders of San Felipe Usila has zealously guarded the secrets of this "caldo," transmitted from father to son for generations. The people of that Oaxacan town believe that the origin of this dish is immemorial and that, in fact, the secret of its preparation, as well as the fire stones needed for cooking are gifts from the gods. Intrinsically linked to the history and customs of the Chinantec people the Council of Elders keeps a watchful eye on everything that concerns the stone soup. That is why César Gachupin de Dios requested their blessing before opening his restaurant.
When you enter the simple roadside restaurant topped with a palm-thatched roof, the first thing you see is a sign that tells the history of this specialty.
This dish prepared by fishermen is a token of love that they give their spouses. In fact, when a Chinantec couple gets engaged they go to the river where the dish is prepared traditionally so that the groom to be can offer it as a token of his love and commitment.
To raise funds for a coproduction between Cindy Wood and the National Geographic, Cesar Gachupín de Dios took this traditional soup to a four-day pop-up Festival at Vaughan's Lounge at the Bywater in New Orleans. The film Follow the path of the real stone soup to remote Oaxaca was very well received. Respecting tradition and the wishes of the Elders Cindy Wood the owner of Vaughan's Lounge took a carload of fire stones and gourds from San Felipe Usilla to New Orleans. Imagine the surprise of the customs officials when they examined the trunk. In fact, César and his son gave a conference at Tulane University while in New Orleans.
In one of the corners of the restaurant, a woman kneads the dough for the tortillas, that will go from her "comal" to your table. In another corner, a young man watches over the fire and keeps a vigilant eye on the stones that must be red-hot before he plunges them into the broth provoking an eruption of aromas.
The stock consists of fish, tomato, jalapeño, and epazote a very common cooking herb here in Mexico. Instead of plates, traditional gourds are used to serve this dish.
I had the opportunity to talk with Cesar, and it was evident that he firmly believes in the almost divine origin of this dish. Perhaps the gods rewarded the Chinantecs for their loyalty to their traditions since the Spaniards were never able to subjugate them. Faithful to the mandate from the Gods, the only fire stones used come from the San Felipe Usila riverbed. When I mentioned that throughout history other peoples had used this cooking method, he was not convinced. But who am I to shake his convictions.
The Council of Elders, Cesar Gachupin de Dios, and the inhabitants of San Felipe Usila believe that restaurants in Mexico and the United States usurp a tradition that does not belong to them. They have no regard for the importance of this tradition, they only see it as a way of making a quick buck. We who consider ourselves very modern may be tempted to mock their beliefs and affirm that this method of cooking can be found it other cultures, but I believe that their beliefs must be respected. I was very moved when I spoke with Cesar, people with such faith always touch me. He is very proud of his origins and his people. I would love to be able to enjoy this stone soup by the river`s edge; perhaps a handsome fisherman can prepare it for me as proof of his love- Wouldn't that be lovely?