#surf rage

[srftoy]

Surf Rage - another incident - why?

[shedking-blog]

Why Locals rule

Localism is a concept that’s not unique to surfing, but in the eyes of society the two are inextricably linked. Movies and the mainstream media teach us that beaches the world over are patrolled by angry locals, hell bent on taking on anyone foolhardy enough to set foot on their beach or even look at their favourite break.

Common punishments include anything from a beating to having your windscreen covered with surf wax.

Luckily it’s one surf-related myth that’s easy to call bullshit on. Sure there are arguments in the water, but these usually stem from blatant snaking, drop ins or other dangerous and idiotic acts.

I spent the last three days about 4 hours up the coast from Sydney in a tiny, sleepy beach town with at least two top-class breaks nearby (see pic as Pablo and I make our way to the break, the point is out of shot on the left). All three days we had perfect weather, warm water and clean, fun waves peeling off a rocky point. Nothing huge, but the kind of peeling 2-3 footers that remind you why surfing is so much fun.

And the locals were the friendliest, most-relaxed and welcoming bunch you could ever hope to meet. Paddling out on day one and there was friendly chat from the get go. No hustling for set waves with 20 other time-poor city boardriders. We were obviously from outta town (three city people, one Aussie, one Brazilian and me, a pom), but we were welcomed in the water like old friends to the point where we were being called into waves by locals who were inside us.

It renewed by my faith in the inherent friendliness of people, and Australian people in particular.  It also opened my eyes to the retro board revival, but that’s for another post.