Pad stitching the lapel on my 1920s riding coat for Black Canary. Pad stitching is a traditional tailoring technique that adds shaping to to the collar and lapel. I flatlined the coat front with muslin, and then used tailor’s canvas in the lapel area. The twill tape stabilizes the roll line. I used the instructions in Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing, and you can also follow the tutorial at her website http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-three.html
The blog instructs you to interface the entire front of the coat with tailor’s canvas, and the book just has you use muslin, which is the method I went with. After pad stitching the entire lapel, I rolled up a washcloth and placed it under the lapel, then steamed it with my iron and let it dry overnight.