Excerpt from Cooper Hewitt Object of the Day post on an untitled jacket (1960) by textile artist Ted Hallman (1933-). > Mae Colburn, “Bespoke Weaving,” Object of the Day blog, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, September 13, 2017.
> Ted Hallman, Jacket, 1960. Handwoven of handspun wool, 37 x 21 in. Collection of the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York, NY.
What makes this jacket unique is its shaping, and the diagonal elements that make the raglan sleeve. Although it’s easy enough to make a shaped pattern piece in knitting (called ‘full fashioned’), it’s difficult in weaving where warp and weft combine into a rectangular loom length.
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Hallman seems to have avoided this issue by weaving individual pattern pieces on a simple loom that allowed him to create a shaped woven garment with no cutting, no hems, and no waste.