Sizing up three new coffee spots in downtown Manhattan and two new choices at another, Think Coffee.
Think Coffee, 8th Avenue: Two intriguing coffees surfaced at tastings in Think’s 8th Avenue coffee shop in Greenwich Village. Customer requests for a darker roast, in part, prompted Think to concoct a new house blend. This time it’s 50 percent Mexican Chiapas robusta beans, which impart a toasty taste and mouth feel. Notes of cocoa, cinnamon and maple syrup come to the fore. The balance of this blend roasted by Dallis Brothers is 20 percent Brazil, 20 percent Ethiopia, 10 percent Nicaragua. Cocoa, lime, tangerine and a light nuttiness arose to varying extent in a handful of preparations of recently arrived Rwanda coffee. The single-origin beans, roasted by Grace Hightower, revealed the most flavor when made in a V-60 drip cone. Clever preparation produced a solid cup. The French roast method dulled the Rwanda’s lime and tangerine tang in an undistinguished cup.
Oren’s Daily Roast, William Street: Now two weeks old, Oren’s outpost in Southern Manhattan has been turning out Kenya Peaberry ice coffee that stands up to the cubes through a 12-ounce cup. Winey, spicy flavors snap. Recent tastings revealed various peaberry coffees as the tea of coffee — ones with a lighter taste and feel akin to tea. Perhaps that’s one reason why Oren’s Kenya Peaberry ice coffee is a refreshing antidote to the slimy, weak cold brews dispensed around town. Two Samsung flatscreen monitors give the new shop an edge, departing from Oren’s traditional wood-and-tile aesthetic.
Third Rail, East 10th Street: Third Rail owner Humberto Ricardo waxes romantic about this new East Village coffee shop's view of tree-lined streets and St. Mark’s Church in the Bowery. But Stumptown Costa Rica and Guatemala coffees starred in early visits — chocolatey, fruity, syrupy. While the new shop opened with an all-Stumptown list, coffee sourcing from different houses is expected. Talk is stirring that Counter Culture Coffee could be on tap.
Hi-Collar, East 10th Street: Tokyo Blend roasted by Porto Rico makes a satisfying cup of coffee, one of many cropping up with cocoa and chocolate notes. The distinctive setting at this small, kissaten coffee bar billing itself as “Flirting with the West” helps make up for the $3.80 sticker shock. That’s for a pour-over drip brew. Aeropress and French roast run higher at $4.80 and $5.80. Coffee talk flows from a knowledgable barista. Cold brew Mizudashi coffee is better than most made by this method. Counter Culture Coffee and Toby’s Estate coffee recently joined the menu.
— Photos by VS, @valerieseckler, in downtown Manhattan, New York, July-August 2013