It's a conversation I find myself having with everyone. Taxi drivers, waitresses, colleagues, drunk friends. The lack of a sense of place in certain parts of Dubai. Because of course, a community does not pop up overnight. You can't build 20 skyscrapers, dump a load of people in them, and expect it to immediately feel like a community. For with history, comes a sense of pride. Is anyone proud to live in JLT? Does anyone feel really culturally or emotionally tied to Barsha?
These areas were built looking up. How high can we go? Because the higher we go, the more suckers we can squeeze into those towers, and the more rent money we can bleed out of them. What other cities - organically grown cities - have that these parts of Dubai are thus far lacking, is an appreciation of the ground. The ability to walk, and to be outside, and feel the space around you. To be surrounded by people and action, trading and engagement. Not to be ensconced in cars and apartments.
Maybe this will come in time. And maybe I'm a bore for harping on about it so much! For now though, this is why Satwa has my heart. The pavements are full of people, bicycles, shops, restaurants, and all round good vibes, all within walking distance! Oh yeah, and did I mention we're about to move there? Yay!
On all our exhausting house-hunting trips, one place has been a constant comfort. Tipanan, on 2nd of December (Al Diyafa) Street, is a cosy Filipino restaurant with a real community atmosphere. Big groups of friends seem to congregate here after work, enjoying some home-style cooking, and watching Filipino singing competitions on the TV. This is a nation that knows how to sing. Even the kids' voices blow my mind.
One time a kids talent show was playing - I had no idea what was going on, but when that little girl sang her heart out on a rendition of Listen by Beyonce, it nearly brought a tear to my eye. The whole of Tipanan was smiling. It felt like the community equivalent of watching a football game down the local pub in the UK. Minus the hooliganism.
Seafood seems to be a specialty at Tipanan, so we tried the sizzling tilapia last time. No matter how old and jaded you are, the sight, sounds, and smell of a sizzling hot plate being brought to your table immediately takes you back to the excitement of being a kid in TGI Friday's ordering fajitas for the first time. I try to play it cool. But inside, I'm always clapping with glee and giggling like a school girl. It's sad but true.
Of course to live up to the hype of such a flamboyant entrance, the meat of the sizzle has gotta be good! Luckily this was some damn good fish - soft, juicy, flaky, fresh. Easily dismantled, with a delicious soy, garlic, and ginger sauce to mop up, and a satisfyingly ugly face to laugh at.
I can't stay away from the tapsilog - cured beef with a fried egg and garlic rice. This healthy serving with a bowl of vinegar, chilli and onion for dipping - or pouring all over everything, if you're Kamal. Vinegar is hugely prevalent in Filipino food, so as fans of the tang, this speaks to us. Tapsilog is traditionally a breakfast dish, but to me it is pure hearty comfort food. Juicy meat, runny egg yolk, loads of garlic - it's like they've been reading my diary!
We also tried the deep-fried chicken wings. Crispy, delicious chicken, with a chilli, garlic and soy dipping sauce? Ain't nothing bad about that! Here at Tipanan it's all simple, non-pretentious, delicious food for the soul. It's not all going to win any awards, but showing off isn't the point at a place like this. It's more about what it offers the community - a consistent, friendly home kitchen away from home. We plan on going back regularly!
