riga fashion week: triinu pungits
(images via style pages)
tartu-based designer triinu pungits is both a guest to riga fashion week this season and a new name for opt, and i'm quite pleased we have a new estonian label to speak of, as some of our old favourites (sob, reet aus, sob) seem to have disappeared to lands other than the latvian runway one. anyway, if there was any bad news about the s/s 2013 collection, it only came in the form that, once again, there just wasn't much in the way of press relating the kind of background details i'd love to have.
and frankly, i found that rather surprising, given ms. pungits' penchant for theatrical dressing. her range, which focused on outerwear so much so that it reminded me more of a fall collection than a spring one, at times reminded me of the work of the house of alexander mcqueen (those mermaid dresses, for example, the plaid, and the hints of military) and russian designer daria razumikhina, with her similar love for colourful stripes, full skirts, layers, and sometimes quite bulky wintery-looking coats.
anyway, of those taking the time to describe ms. pungits' collection, the byelorussian site mod-no explained that she had previously worked as a costumer for ballets, which perhaps goes some way towards clarifying her dramatic turn. in a rather odd, yet intriguing juxtaposition, she crafted rosette-like shapes into the fabric of many of her looks, floral elements adorning others, while the palette she employed--save for a few splashes of bloody red, some wine, rusty orange, and a final rainbow-ed look with a layered teal skirt--strayed to colours we don't generally think of equating with flowers: black, deep umber, and several varying shades of gray.
well. fortunately for us, we did get at least one site to go a little more in-depth with ms. pungits' show, the excellent design 4 2 day writing that "(f)or Pungits, the focal point of the collection was most certainly the coat. While the colors we’ve seen on the runway were rather dim (with a few unexpected pops of red), the forms were ranging from sharp masculine to voluminous feminine. Pungits opened the show with her take on the classic contour of menswear coats."
"Blame it on the rich texture, asymmetrical buttoning or excellent tailoring, but the first piece was certainly an eye-catcher. The game of forms continued as the designer played with balloon silhouette adding some dramatic body to sleeves and waistlines of her coats. Finally, the two tendencies collided in a bright red piece that was something between a coat and a couture dress. Adorned with military straps and immense flower detailing, this was the piece that everyone was talking about. If we had to summarize the collection in only a few words, we’d say it was bold and couturesque with a hint of nostalgia," they concluded. nicely said. and done, of course, by ms. pungits (see additional runway images at naine 24 & easy get).
(watch the collection video, which starts around the 8:05 mark, here)