Gunya-Kotsovanya: Traditional Clothes in Transcarpathian, Ukraine
"For many years, the habitual clothing of a shepherd in Transcarpathia has been and remains gunya-kotsovanya. True, today this item of clothing is found in a few Transcarpathian villages, except, of course, for ethnic festivals and collections of fashion brands that are trying to revive folk traditions in their new projects. Gunya-kotsovanya perfectly protects from rain and snow and warms well in severe frost. The manufacturing technology is not simple, but the result justifies the long and laborious process. First, sheep's wool is evaporated in hot water for several hours, then washed in cool water and dried. Next, the material is combed out, separating the good fibers from the bad ones. From the selected hairs, threads are made, which are cut into lengths of about 30 cm and, using a loom, cloth with a shaggy outer side is woven. In one day, a craftswoman, as a rule, can make up to three meters of woolen cloth. The finished base is soaked in water and dried for several days. In the end, large pieces are sewn together and ribbons are added that are tied around the neck. In addition to everyday clothes, there is a festive gunya-kotsovany - people believe in its supernatural power. The white gunya is put on for a wedding, and they also go to church services in it, but the black one is put aside in case of a funeral. Nowadays, gunya-kotsovanya can be seen on the inhabitants of the Mezhgorsky district of the Transcarpathian region. Here, until now, craftsmen continue to master the ancient art of weaving, using authentic materials exclusively from local raw materials."
