spfw: uma raquel davidowicz
so uma raquel davidowicz is one of the newer kids on the são paulo fashion week block (and there are quite a few absences this time around, like huis clos and maria bonita), having debuted only last season, with her a/w 2012 range (that opt didn't quite like enough to do a full review on). anyway, i will say that i found the designer's s/s 2013 collection a little more enticing, although her aesthetic rather reminds me of that which we'd seen in kiev, perhaps, (thanks to a lot of darks, and some avanty-cum-minimalist tendencies) rather than brazil, though that isn't necessarily a bad thing.
as the brazilian site toda ela explained it, (trans.) "(t)he inspiration came from primitive art...and the colours were neutral, with very black and white, and some hints of gray and blue....pants hook down with slash pockets, skirts, slacks, coats and dresses can be long and sleeveless, made of jersey and with scoop necks, or shorter and with asymmetric layers. To adorn the pieces, a few strips of leather, fringe, and silver beads. The fabrics are soft and lightly sparkling, and may rely on digital prints made with laser geometry or African tribal references."
meanwhile, portais da moda reported on range materials, noting that ms. davidowicz had picked particularly luxe varieties, including (trans.) "silk, chiffon and crepe silk devore, which shared space with a more structured fabric leather," and, regarding the clothes themselves added that "(t)he lengths of the dresses ranged from long to midis, and embraced geometric cutouts. Also present were the classic fall fronts, transparencies, applications with sequins, geometric prints and digital fringe and famous who were the protagonists of the collection and promise to shine."
elsewhere, elle reported that the designer said (trans.) "the idea was to bring the beginnings of art to the present day. This mix of past and present became clear in the prints, which brought African references mixed with laser-made digital printing with geometric shapes. This graphic was applied to the compositions of necklaces, bracelets and sandals, all made with recycled rubber," while closet online chimed in that (trans.) "pants and long dresses in simple cuts were made of light and fluid fabrics, ideal to experience the warmth of the season. Unique front blouses and short skirts were present on the catwalk. Transparencies reveal hot pants and tops, almost always in black. The lengths ranging between average and long midi."
finally, the brazilian site ffw commented that the designer (trans.) "brought the theme of 'Primitive Art' to the present day, translating it into a language consistent with the DNA of the urban and clean brand through elements such as recycled rubber and loud prints that (vaguely) resemble African paintings. The clothes themselves have followed the style and utility and 'easy; A's, with elongated silhouette, fabric and [cuts hanging] loose in the body." in the end, i'd agree that there were pretty, intriguing, and most of all, wearable, clothes here, although perhaps they didn't play out as well on the runway, considering how splashy this particular edition of spfw has been. but come the season, some girls are going to be looking especially lovely in gowns like the white and blue ones with the black detailing (as below and on marcelia freesz, at top).
(watch the collection video here)
