if you're answering skincare questions, could i ask for some advice on getting rid of whiteheads and blackheads?
Of course! Warning you now though, this is kind of a big question. You’re welcome to ask follow ups! And if your white heads and black heads are particularly acute, you want to talk to a dermatologist and do what they say no matter what I tell you. Pocketderm is a great tool if you can’t make a dermatologist appointment.White heads and black heads are called comedomes and are caused by a condemogenic reaction. What this means is that something blocks up the pore in your skin under the hair follicle and traps skin oils and bacteria inside. Black heads are “open comedomes” which means there’s no skin over the top so the top of the plug oxidizes and turns black. White heads have skin over the top so the plug doesn’t have contact with air and stays white. White heads can also become inflamed as your body tries to fight off the bacteria inside. Comedogenic reactions can be caused by bacteria, hormones, not getting all the dead skin cells off your face, by irritation, or by certain things coming in contact with your face and clogging your pores (oil from your hair, something in a skin care product or makeup, etc.)So, the first thing is you want to assess your skin type. If your skin is too dry, it could be that the white heads and black heads are being caused by your skin upping oil (sebum) production to try and moisturize your skin. If your skin is oily, it could be that you’re not removing enough oil in your skincare routine. You still need to moisturize though. Most people have combination skin so using a good exfoliate will help! Be careful with drugstore acne products because they can be really overly drying and strip your skin. Next, assess your skincare routine. Is it right for your skin type? You want to use products targeted for your skin type. You also want to ensure nothing in your routine is causing your reaction.On routines! If you have break outs your going to need a good cleaner, a chemical exfoliate, and a moisturizer. You can add in more things if you need/want, but these are the basics. To control my acne, I also use a retinol cream and Acanya gel which is a mix of benzoyl peroxide and clyndamycin phosphate (most of my breakouts come from bacteria).I’m not going to talk to much here about cleaners and moisturizers because those things can really vary depending on what your skin likes. I will say for your cleaner you don’t want anything that leaves your skin feeling “tight” or “squeaky clean” that means it’s drying out out and stripping your skin. You also want your cleanser to be between pH 4.5-7.5. Putting a high pH on your face is like covering it in acne bait.
So. What I think would be most useful for you is a good chemical exfoliate. There are two types AHA and BHA. AHA is alphy hydroxy acid it’s a little more intense and is more for smoothing out the texture of skin and for promoting collagen production for anti-aging. BHA is beta hydroxy acid and is salcystic acid, which is what you usually see in acne treatments. It deep cleans pores and can make them look smaller. I use both AHA and BHA. Both of mine are from Paula’s Choice, but a lot of people swear by Stridex in the red box for BHA or Aveno exfoliating wipes. It’s too harsh for my skin though.
Acids are active ingredients so you need to have them be at a proper pH to work. Paula’s Choice lists their pH levels, which is one of the reasons I trust their products. Theoretically, the water in your home should be around pH 7, so after cleansing you want to wait about 15 minutes for your face to rebalance, then apply your exfoliate, then wait another 10 minutes or so before you apply your moisturizer. You can also spot treat the areas on your face that are particularly broken out with benzyl peroxide. Tea Tree oil mists help too. We can talk about how to make one if you’re interested!So, my theoretical acne routine (not including products for other things) would be:morning:-cleanse-moisturize-sunscreenevening:-first cleanse-second cleanse(wait 15 minutes)-exfoliate (2% BHA)(wait 10-15 minutes)-moisturize-spot treatment
You may want to step up to exfoliating twice a day, but start with just at night until your skin adjusts. You can add in other things weekly if your skin is oily like koalin clay masks to help control oil production and GENTLE weekly physical exfoliation (if your skin can handle it). Don’t use any scrubs though! If your skin is dry you might want to use an oil like joajoaba or rosehip. Basically all oils break me out though so word of warning there. I’ve also heard of people having great results by using African black soap.Other things: Are you changing your pillowcase at least every three days and your sheets weekly? Are you keeping your hair off your face? If you wear makeup, are you getting it all off at night? You should put just as much effort into taking makeup off as you put into putting it on.Sorry this is so long! There’s just a lot of things that can cause black heads and white heads and a lot of ways to go about reducing them! If exfoliates and assessing your routine doesn’t work, you should see a dermatologist or esthitician. And remember, there’s no quick fix with skincare. You have to be consistent.Let me know if you need more help or if anything isn’t clear!