Snazzing up the Basic Dress in 1950: McCalls 1521
If you’ve read The Lost Art of Dress, then you know I am fond of the collars and cuff sets that were designed to take a basic dress--relatively plain, but well made, with good lines--and made it possible to wear day in and day out. These were particularly valuable for women who worked in offices in the first half of the 20th Century. This one dating to 1950 has so much variety that it would suit several basic dresses, including one with a deep V neckline and a higher, rounded neckline.
It has the plain rounded collar, then dainty, frilly, and embroidered rounded collar along with the small but sporty collar with brighter tie. Not to mention a small collar with turned back points. Then it veers towards the large lapel collar, the long draped collar, the long shawl collar, and even the long shawl collar with frills and embroidery. One can almost imagine her switching out one at the end of the day if she wanted to go from serious to frilly instantly.
Then there are two that cover far more: an overlay with a Mandarin collar and matching cuffs, and a kind of “vestee” which would be worn under a suit jacket that was never taken off. Look closely, and you will even see a small winged collar that also manages to scallop at the back. When Harriet Pepin mentioned that the designer who was good at collars could make a career of it, you can see why this talent was so valued. Out of bits and pieces of remnant fabrics, these collars could make a basic dress suit almost any mood. I haven’t made any of them yet, but give me time.
This is my own find, but you can view collar sets like these at online at COPA at the University of Rhode Island, along with pattern schematics which will help you if you are feeling you want to copy or draft some yourself. https://copa.apps.uri.edu/
