W Sushi
Hidden shelved succulents bordering the ceiling in the foyer, a geometric cube bar back with Japanese beer and Sake facings methodically spaced, muted linen tables, a red accent room, the fragments of a fast food coffee establishment, a coffee cup logo on the door and paper lanterns wrapped in bramble bush and thorn garlands in this voguish minimalist with street style sushi bar.
Sushi is usually, usual. It falls into an acceptable menu of foods that those who live the civilized life eat, which is a short list comprised of Diet Coke, Avocado, French Macarons, Pho, Brunch in general, (for a reason I cannot fathom) Donuts and Sushi. Not that there is anything wrong with any of these foods, except for maybe the donuts which are reducing and revolting with a hole right through the middle to prove it, but they are basic. Basic as in very boring, you have a condensed understanding of current culture and aesthetic principle, little fish. Please detect a brief hint of disdain, before I resume my just as commonplace behaviour.
As many exceptions as you can care to make to every rule is exceptional. To compose a menu that is as extensive as it is exquisite often proves to outdo even the most masterful mainly due to that it is easy to grow tired of sushi even as you are eating it. W Sushi dismisses the mention of the thought before you have even had it. I found myself poring over the menu, and then glancing at it as I waited between services, choosing scrutinizingly but often having my attentions caught by another dish in each category. This escalated quickly, as do all great indulgences, and I do not care to say how many times I ordered exactly because I am sure that it was far more then I ever have.
The seared Salmon Tataki with Ponzu sauce, the blanc on white Cuttlefish Sushi, then the Bacon Asparagus Maki, Deep Fried Cheese Wantons, Spicy Salmon Chips — the exclamations that followed each arrival to our table were as my guest put it only adequately expressed by pointing chopsticks in an attesting way, repetitively at the food. There was a sense of presentation that went further then the careful preparation of hand rolls and minimalism on bamboo boards. A taste of on the spot preparation with haste and no mistakes, and of the high standing of Japanese cuisine endowed with honour and ritual but subtly edited to (dare I say) inspired and relevant culinary trend.
The favourite item on the docket was, for myself who hates to name favourites, their namesake special roll which is worthy of being their calling card. Served just slightly hot and tempura dipped, The W is with Salmon, White Tuna, Red Snapper, Masago, Mayo and Mango of all things. A sampling of all of the items on the "Kitchen Signature" lists I completely condone as the most practical way to go about experiencing the method to what they have created here, leave none out. They certainly have not. To try on another occasion: Shrimp Vegetable Tempura Noodles and Don with Chicken and Egg on Rice served in a hot pot.
