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Ok I’m back once again with a questionable Furby accessory crochet pattern. This time it’s the carrier.

It took way longer than I expected because I got bored doing the repetitive strap and became addicted to some roguelike dungeon crawler.

The project started from replicating this:

Do you have a 1998/99 adult furby that desperately need to get out of the house but has a tendency to wander off? Have you tried putting you

But I soon realized that I’m a very tight crocheter and if I simply follow this pattern the final product will be too small. Also, I don’t really like the weird protrusion as shown in the original creator’s final product…

So a tweaked version below the cut… A quick disclaimer I’m not sure how well will this replicate, I’m someone who tries to create a blanket out of granny squares and end up with 9 that each has a different measure.

I guess just don’t be afraid to redo rows or modify things, and politely ask your beloved Furb to try it on every now and then.

Tools of the trade:

A 7.0 mm hook (There are places where I personally used a 4.0 mm hook, which will be specified. In a hindsight, it’s probably better to use the 7mm hook throughout this project)

Good old 3mm yarn that’s 35g/59m (1.23oz/64.52yd) (Yeah blame me for relying on Daiso as my sole source of crochet gears, I dare you) Roughly as dense as worsted/4 yarn

Jargon:

ch - chain stitch dc - double crochet hdc - half double crochet ss - slip stitch

What I did (with a lot of unnecessary ranting):

R1: Start with slip knot, ch 2, dc 6 in second stitch from hook (used 4mm hook, because I kinda suck at starting a circle)

And from here on I switched to the 7mm hook as

Otherwise I have trouble keeping the circle flat

A bigger hook makes each stitch and the final product larger

R2: dc 2 in each of the previous stitches (12 stitches)

R3: [dc 1 in the first stitch, dc 2 in the second stitch]*6 (18 stitches)

R4: [dc 1 in the first stitch and second stitch each, dc 2 in the third stitch]*6 (24 stitches)

R5: [dc 3, 2 dc’s in the fourth stitch]*6 (30 stitches)

R6: [dc 4, 2 dc’s in the fifth stitch]*6 (36 stitches)

Experienced reader will realize that it’s just inc 6 for each round, until you have 36 stitches in one round.

One thing to notice is that after you finish R5, the circle should be roughly same size as your furb’s bottom.

R7: dc 3, ch 3, dc into 4th stitch from hook, dc 2, ch 3, dc into 4th stitch from hook, dc 12, ch 6, dc into 7th stitch from hook, dc 5 (used 4mm hook, 36 stitches)

This gives you the two peet holes and one tail hole. Yes a quick calculation should show that this is not symmetric but somehow it fits, so remember to use your own Furb as measure and adjust if necessary.

From here on I switched to hdc to control for the height increase and *ahem* save yarn.

I tried to continue with 4mm hook but the opening contracts significantly, so just stick to the 7mm hook throughout.

This is also where the pattern starts. If you want a single colored one, just replace all the following rows with hdc 36:

R8: [hdc 5 using the color you started the project with (color A hereafter), hdc 1 using a different color (color B hereafter)]*6 (36 stitches)

R9: [hdc 4 using color A, hdc 2 using color B]*6 (36 stitches)

R10: [hdc 3 using color A, hdc 3 using color B]*6 (36 stitches)

R11: [hdc 2 using color A, hdc 4 using color B]*6 (36 stitches)

R12: [hdc 1 using color A, hdc 5 using color B]*6 (36 stitches)

For alternating between two colors I yarn over with color A, and pull through color B. For other stitches I brings along the inactive color by tucking it in between the three loops and the active yarn when you are supposed to pull through (see below for two poor quality photo as reference):

R13: Edging for the body. hdc 5, ss 11, hdc 5, ss 15 and then sc 1 in the same stitch as last ss using color B (37 stitches)

The two hdc 5 clusters will serve as base for the strap.

Then you just baby blanket it, I dc'ed all the way until the end of the first cluster and ch 2 for turning, repeat until desired length. Also did two dc's in the first and last stitch of the 5 hdc base to add extra width to the strap (So each row has 7 dc).

I also reverted back to 4mm hook (finally) for a neater look.

For this part simply do however many rows as you will find fitting. I did 90 rows of 7 dc.

When the strap is finished, connect it together with a technique similar to this on the inside. I used slip stitch instead of single crochet to give the seam a more even look.

Honorable mentions: This and that for reference on specific technical details and pattern writing, and Lime helping me with the fit.

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