So first of all, that building is ridiculous. There's so much more going on inside it than I'd imagined, even from the ornate exterior:
Yeah it looks like a castle, but Edinburgh is pretty much entirely made up of buildings that look like castles and then are ordinary on the inside. But this one has multiple spiral staircases!
There's a bar inside that has so much going on, decor wise:
I realized that I recognized some of the building, and it took me a little while to work out that that's because I've seen it in the Tim Minchin documentary. Which spent a lot of time covering Minchin's debut Edinburgh hour from 2005, where he was at the Gilded Balloon Teviot. So while I'm sure the building has changed since the CMG days, some must be similar, since it looked familiar from that.
I probably spent a weird amount of time just walking around the building last night, having a look at it. I don't think it would have helped if I could have explained that I'm basically just acting like those people who go to New Zealand to see all the locations where Lord of the Rings was filmed. I'm basically just coming to see the location where they filmed my favourite video, okay?
I'm supposed to attend Late 'n' Live at some point this month, not because I have any interest in that show, but because it'll let me see the actual room where Cowgate happened. Though I don't know if they do still host Late 'n' Live in the same room. Annoyingly, my trusty site for old Edinburgh programmes, such a useful way to look up Fringe history, has let me down here. Because the 2003 programme entry for Late 'n' Live doesn't tell me what specific room it was in:
I did see page 182, where it confirms that the Gilded Balloon Teviot circa 2003 had the same rooms it does now - Wine Bar (that's where I saw Phil Nichol last night), Debating Hall (that's where Late 'n' Live is now, and may or may not have been then), and a few others:
I'm going to guess Late 'n' Live was still in the Debating Hall back then, but I don't know for sure. As I walked around the venue last night, I thought that after all my time researching Cowgate-related stuff, I've crossed an ocean to find the site in person, surely I could just find out from someone here. But that would not make sense, as if I asked any of the Gilded Balloon employees around whether Late 'n' Live was held in the same room back in 2003, their answer would probably be "I wasn't even born in that year" (the venue employees at this festival are surprisingly young). I suppose I could just wander around the building and hope I eventually run into Karen Koren herself, and ask her.
In case anyone is reading this without context and has now idea what I'm talking about - look, I don't have time to explain all the lore, but CMG stands for Chocolate Milk Gang, a thing I spent several years obsessively researching, all direct references to it that I've found are collated here:
The Chocolate Milk Gang Preservation Society
Well, most direct references. That page doesn't include the fact that last year in London, I got to ask Steve Hall about it - the actual Steve Hall from We Are Klang and those awesome old Kitson radio shows and he's so fucking cool and getting to talk to him is the absolute coolest thing I did in all of 2025 - and he verbally confirmed to me that it was real. That "Chocolate Milk Gang" was a real term used by comedians at the time, and John Oliver and Andy Zaltzman are full of shit when they claim it wasn't (or more likely, they were too busy just getting on with their own lives and comedy careers to pay attention to what people called them).
Oh, and Cowgate is a name I've given to an event from 2003, featuring a number of CMG members (Cowgate is also a neighbourhood in Edinburgh, I named the event after the neighbourhood, which I suppose could be confusing, but I think it's a solid name because I also mean it in the sense of Watergate, but with a cow). Basically, a number of years ago I came across this video at 2 AM while unable to sleep due to a month-long bout of anxiety-based insomnia, and then I spent several years obsessed with learning all the secrets of why the fuck that happened:
I've learned many secrets about that video now, after much research. Flight of the Conchords were on stage in it, playing the music. The cow was a mascot to advertise Metro, which were sponsors of the Gilded Balloon at the time. Its name is Mootro. The destruction of it was basically because the comedians were annoyed that they had to share the stage with an advertisement. Fun fact, this took place on Nish Kumar's 18th birthday. That has nothing to do with anything but I think it's fun. I know so much stuff about this video and it took so long to find out. And now I've physically been there. Very exciting.
Anyway. When I was standing in line for the Phil Nichol show, people around me were all joking about how he was going to take his clothes off in it. This made me want to tell them, "You know, it was originally written as a protest show against the Iraq war. It's a bit reductive to think of this as just a show about getting naked; there's a purpose to that." Which of course is very silly, because I had just written a Tumblr post in which I entirely reduced that show to one where Phil Nichol gets naked. Also, it was a pro-pacifism show, but it was mainly a story about doing a lot of drugs and getting naked in public. In the name of pacifism.
The show was awesome. It was almost word-for-word what I remembered from the NextUp video that was filmed in 2006 (or maybe filmed in 2007, actually, but around that time, it captured the 2006 version of the show) - I mean, one important word was changed, for the better, but otherwise he brought it back faithfully. Watching the show live reminded me how much it affected me when I first saw it, the actual nudity being the least of that.
The part where he says that humans don't need war anymore because in modern times we can sublimate our violent instincts, and all the ways we've found to sublimate those are what makes life worth living, like sports and adventure. When I first saw this show, it was much sooner after I'd made the difficult decision to walk away from my ~20 years involved in competing and coaching in the sport of wrestling at a relatively high-level, and that part really got to me. That's what the show is about, really. Doing wild shit like drugs and loud music and streetfights to satisfy the violent instinct because we don't need war for that (is there a reason why so many people from my sport including me struggle with alcohol problems because we get addicted to the adrenaline and sublimation of human violent instinct into anything that'll mess us up for a bit, don't worry about that, but this show did bring that up for me in a cathartic way).
Anyway, at the end of the show he did take his clothes off, and it was weird and shocking at first but only for a few moments, then I got used to it and it was fine, and we all stood up and jumped up and down while singing an anti-war song, and it was a great time. I'm very glad I went. Seeing Phil Nichol again later in the month, doing a new WIP. It's just occurred to me that there is one person in that building who would know what room Late 'n' Live was in in 2003: Phil Nichol. I'm usually very bad at talking to famous comedians (and my definition of "famous comedian" is anyone who's been on stage) because I get extremely overwhelmed and intimidated and I'm so bad at being normal, but I've seen Phil Nichol naked for long enough so he can't be that intimidating. Maybe I'll try to ask him.