the adventures of Udo Neumann

author, boulder coach, film maker and photographer Udo Neumann shares random events in his life, sometimes in German, sometimes in English ...

[udini]

JJ Gibson — almost as if he designed his theories while hanging from a cliff face! from udo neumann on Vimeo.

[udini]

Janja Beginns, 2016-2017 from udo neumann on Vimeo.

[udini]

Nicolai Bernstein Would Love Climbing from udo neumann on Vimeo.

My new book Climbing Performance Coaching Rock features Bernstein’s idea of "Movement as a problem-solving process" throughout. Nicolai Alexandrovich Bernstein (1896–1966) was a pioneering Soviet neurophysiologist and biomechanist, best known for his groundbreaking work in motor control and the coordination of movement. His ideas were well ahead of his time and laid the foundation for many modern approaches in motor learning, neuroscience, robotics, and kinesiology. Nicolai Bernstein’s theories have had a profound influence on modern motor learning, shifting the field away from rigid, hierarchical models of control toward more dynamic, adaptable, and ecological perspectives. Considering the Degrees of Freedom Problem is pure coaching gold! Freezing degrees of freedom in motor learning refers to a strategy used by the central nervous system to simplify the control of movement when learning a new motor skill. (Degrees of freedom in this context refer to the numerous independent variables, such as joint angles and muscle activations, that need to be controlled to produce coordinated movement). This concept empowers coaches without a deep insight into the biomechanics of a movement because freezing degrees of freedom is obvious to the observer. You don’t have to be a master biomechanist to recognize robotic movements and tell-tale signs like clenched fists or stiff legs. Bernstein’s concept of freezing degrees of freedom and Moshe Feldenkrais’s concept of parasitic tension are of great value for coaches since both address the constraints and inefficiencies in movement during learning or habitual behavior. Here is a more comprehensive write-up about BERNSTEIN'S KEY SCIENTIFIC IDEAS AND THEIR APPLICATION TO ROCK CLIMBING: medium.com/klettertraining-in-english/bernstein-would-love-climbing-59249e5351a6 Learn more about Climbing Performance Coaching here: udini.com/produkt/climbing-performance-coaching/ Hard copies of Climbing Performance Coaching: a.co/d/0GsmUWC

[udini]

What Janja (still) does differently 2024-4 from udo neumann on Vimeo.

[udini]

Understanding Modern Bouldering,pt. 3 https://cutt.ly/hymm5aE

[udini]

Udo Neumann on Twitter

“Understanding Modern Bouldering - Part 2: The Power of the Mind https://t.co/qYkhISII1H https://t.co/tTcdGUAGJH”

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: Different Times: Klem Loskot and me writing „Der XI. Grad - Klettern am Rande des Menschenmöglichen“ (link in Bio), twenty years ago. #climbingatthelimit #klemloskot #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #climbingbooks #climbingintheninties #bouldering #emotionallandscapes https://ift.tt/2WLvEpV

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: Hot Lava garden challenge 01 #covid_19 #socialdistancing #everydayanadventure #hotlava #balance #obstaclecourse #theobstacleistheway #covid_19cologne https://ift.tt/3bt0oAr

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: the maze that was the last Problem of Studio Bloc Masters 2020 - only @vadim_timonov and @gregorvezonik could find a way out of! #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #bouldering #spatialawareness #climbing #studioblocmasters https://ift.tt/3cFrdTc

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: serial winner @kruderjernej qualifiying for semis of #studioblocmasters tomorrow. I put a „Janja Garnbret Bloc Master 2020 Quali Show Reel“ on my YouTube channel where you can watch all the problems Janja did today btw : https://youtu.be/jERSMRMImLQ #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #slovenia #bouldering #strongman https://ift.tt/2PYbuVz

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: the fantastic @oriane_bertone in the #studioblocmasters quali today! #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #climblikeagirl #bouldering https://ift.tt/2TKDywS

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: Studio Bloc Masters Qualifikation in full swing! #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #bouldering #studioblocmasters https://ift.tt/2PTAtsY

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: one week till #studioblocmasters #boulderingisthebest https://ift.tt/39ahXnL

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: the best climbing coaches are Orangutan moms! In 2011 I had the privilege to follow a mom and her child through the jungle near the village Ketambe in Sumatra’s Leuser ecosystem. Orangutan mothers take single parenting to the next level. These highly intelligent apes look after their young for eight years; longer than any other animal single parent. Female Sumatran orangutans only have a baby once every nine years (they continue to have babies into their 40s), and because they take such a long time to raise each one, mum and baby build exceptionally strong social bonds. Only humans have a similar intensive relationship with their mothers. Primatologists believe that orangutans have such long childhoods because there is so much that they need to learn before they can live alone successfully. They are about 20m up in this video, so a fall would be lethal. In every instance, the mum is aware of where her child is and supports and spots it if needed. Orangutans are the most arboreal of the great apes and spend most of their time in trees where they travel from branch to branch by climbing, clambering, and brachiating. They possess extremely flexible hip joints that allow for great mobility, and their big toes are able to grasp just like a hand. Unfortunately there are only about 6.000 wild Orangutan left in Sumatra. Threats to wild orangutan populations include poaching, the illegal pet trade and habitat destruction as a result of palm oil cultivation. So one thing we all can do for the survival of Orangutans is avoiding products with palm oil. Palm oil is an important ingredient for the food industry, used as a cooking oil or in the production of processed foods (such as many types of chocolates, biscuits, chewing gum...) and for the manufacture of cosmetic and hygiene products (soaps, lipstick, washing powder…) It is also used for the production of so-called biodiesel. Till palm oil production can’t guarantee to be sustainable and doesn’t ruin primary rain forests or violate the land rights of local people I try to avoid it whenever I can! . #orangutans #orangutanmother #climbingperformancecoaching #climbing #palmoilfree #palmoilkills #brachiation #arboreal https://ift.tt/2Vj3jXA

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: one-hand Release and Freeze Challenge While hanging from both hands, bring your body into a shape or have a partner guide you into a position. Now release one hand, while freezing your body like a stature, being as still as possible. Hold for three seconds (count ‘alligators’ or ‘thousand’ as one second) or, better, for three breath-cycles. What is it good for? In S&C this would be considered isometric strength training and it will certainly improve your static muscle and tendon strength. The benefits for your balance are even more important imo. Balance is attained when the centre of gravity is over (or under, when hanging) the base of support. All movements require some sort of static balance, from which all controlled movement originates and is managed through effective posture and muscular contractions and relaxation. Struggling with finding balance before releasing a hand or foot often leads to much more struggling later in a climbing move. This is what you practice here: identifying the right position and timing for releasing one hand and building the strength to control the position after the release! #ideastoimproveyourclimbing #borntoclimb #klettertraining #balance #tensegrity #strength #climbing #climbingperformancecoaching https://ift.tt/37ERYmW

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: Japan Bouldering Cup 2020 last problem - @tomoa_narasaki vs @kai_hrd . #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #bouldering #boulderingjapancup https://ift.tt/2OU5pc2

[udini]

Stephen posted a video to Instagram: more Japanese bouldering wizardry #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #bouldering #climbing #borntoclimb https://ift.tt/37bMiAz