2 Doses A Day

Introducing 2 DOSES A DAY by Jacob Bagwell – an online magazine dedicated to documenting inspiration and keeping taste-makers up to date with the latest in men's fashion, architecture, art and design. e:[email protected]

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Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection from Sebastian Munier is one that will resonate very well with Ann Demeulemeester loyal fans who’ve worn the designer since the beginning. The quotes and phrases on the garments are exactly what Ann would have done. This collection is clean and also features a little bit of the asymmetry that Ann was known for. This is one brand where sticking to codes is a must, and it was good to see he did a little more than usual with this collection. Sometimes Munier’s collections are a little too colorful for my liking, but this was simply perfect. There was so much to choose from including the knits, the jewelry, the pants were tailored impeccably and the jackets were a few of the highlights that really stood out to me. 

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The Business of Fashion: The Return of Olivier Theyskens

BoF’s Lauren Sherman caught up with the Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens, who is set to relaunch his Olivier Theyskens line this Fall. Working under the radar for the past two years, is currently working with a small team in Paris to rework his beloved brand. Since his beginnings the talented Theyskens has always focused on product, design and quality. Those are some of the things that I’m looking forward to the most. High quality fashion with integrity, what the fashion world has been missing lately. As reported by Sherman, Theyskens has enlisted Maximiliano Nicolelli as his chief executive. Excited for Theyskens revamped beginnings. Read more on The BoF.

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Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2017 Collection was one of my favorite Yohji collections of late. The collection showcased what looked like hand written Yohji slogans and was an amazing balance between dreary and romance. Everything was light-weight and effortless, something I’ve really been drawn to this season. Menswear of today definitely feels too forced, with everyone wanting to be different by doing the same things. Each season, Yohji is the designer who gives it to you like it is without having to explain much or even anything at all. His collections are grown up and elevated above the rest. For Spring/Summer 2017, I get a similar vibe that I felt from Haider Ackermann’s showing, rough, dramatic, a little melancholy but definitely romantic and hopeful. This is the kind of edge that I am drawn to. It makes you dream. Here are some of my favorite looks above. 

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Cedric Jacquemyn Spring/Summer 2017 Collection Preview

Recently Cedric Jacquemyn has become my go to for everything. These days either I am going out and just throwing on a Cedric Jacquemyn suit jacket, getting ready for work and don’t want to think about getting dressed, or just casually getting dressed with a t-shirt and a pair of Cedric Jacquemyn trousers. For Spring/Summer 2017 “Here is No Border Only Dust” Collection, Jacquemyn continues to create a wardrobe for his die hards. Well known for his weavery and photographed by frequent collaborator Yves De Brabander, it’s a collection that reminds you Cedric Jacquemyn is the definition of Artisanal Craft. The collection also continues his collaboration with Nico Uytterhaegen. Take a look back for more from this collection.

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Boris Bidjan Saberi Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

Every season I get this sense from watching Boris Bidjan Saberi’s collections that he’s designing for more than just himself. He has amassed a large cult following over the years because he is so specific and designs for an equally as specific person. The Rick Owens customer is not necessarily the BBS customer and he’s done a good job to distinguish himself from other niche avant-garde designers. For Spring/Summer 2017, he continues to expand his palette. Although not my favorite BBS collection there was a lot to take in. I love his knack for a slouchy fit and his layering technique. The knits were a highlight of mine as well as the drop crotch shorts. If you know me well, you know I am almost always wearing drop crotch.

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Julius Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

The Spring/Summer 2017 “Knives” Collection from Japanese brand Julius was a lot more relaxed and laid back than most of his collections in recent memory. With this collection, Tatsuro  Horikawa made sure to cover all of the basics of the Julius man’s wardrobe. There was simple suiting, trousers, a lot of garments made from sweatshirt material, it was very light-weight, airy and free. This collection was one of no restraints. Just simple (a Julius kind of simple), unforced and effortless. Many of the pieces wrapped around the body in a very appealing way. So much to choose from. Here are a few of my favorite looks above.

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Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

I am someone who is loyal to brands that evolve season to season rather than change rapidly. Rick Owens is a brand that has done that effortlessly throughout its growth. This collection is a good example of that, building on the elongated and boxy proportions from last season’s FW16 MASTADON collection. Here the signature silhouette was long bottom and cropped skin-tight upper. We see the evolution of colors used in this collection like lemon, persimmon and marine while staying true to the Rick Owens signature black. He masterfully played with draping which resulted in happy accidents of ruffled fabric. Honestly, it was a good collection and I’m hoping for more next season. More layers, more options to choose from, more wardrobe staples for a Rick Owens die hard like myself. Here are a few of my favorites above and below. (images courtesy of VR)

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Here is a look at the Rick Owens SS2017 ‘WALRUS” collection. This collection is one that needs to be watched as the garments move so effortlessly because of the fabrics, the proportions and the contrasting lengths of the over-sized pants and cropped jackets.

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Haider Ackermann Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

Haider Ackermann is one of the shows I look forward to the most during the Paris Fashion Week circuit. He still makes garments that make you dream. Season after season he continues to evolve his rarefied dandy rather than change him. Ackermann enhanced the movement, proportion, colors and his signature drama and romance for Spring/Summer 2017. I loved how nothing was perfect yet still sophisticated and sharp, building on some of the Ackermannisms that I love. A few of the pieces that I loved the most were the blotchy shirts that looked like they had been perfectly soiled or put on in a rush or carefree manner. I was also (as always) taken away by his pants. There’s nothing like an Ackermann pant. Nothing.  This is kind of what a punk would wear to a wedding or something he had to get dressed up for. My favorite look from head to toe- the final look with the bomber pictured above second from the right. Everything about it screamed this is what I want from fashion today and to wear tomorrow.

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Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

Here at 2dosesaday, we usually wait till after the shows to critique. Personally once you’ve seen everything, I feel reviews are less biased, more thorough and I can only talk about what I want to. In my opinion Raf Simons’ most recent collections (FW14, SS15. FW15, AW16) have been good but not impressive. Too much of the same and too driven towards millennials (even though I am one). For Spring/Summer 2017 his latest artist collaboration, this time with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation felt like a return to the Raf Simons of early years. This collection was dark, still youth oriented but sophisticated and refined in the way we have come to recognize from the Belgian. This was Simons’ design at its best and reminded me of the Closer collection or another one of my favorite Raf Simons collections SS02. I can honestly say when I buy Raf Simons in 2016, I buy vintage Raf from SS04, SS05, SS06 etc....but with this collection I definitely want to be caught in one of those Robert Mapplethorpe long tunics. 

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Thamanyah Moves to Dubai

In new and exciting news, cult fashion label Thamanyah headed by Ahmed Abdelrahman is moving to his homeland of Dubai. All production and the atelier, everything is moving in-house reflecting this new change in Abdelrahman’s brand as he capitalizes on the growing diversity in the United Arab Emirates and  its ever-changing fashion landscape. Michele Lamy who has one of the first to consult with Abdelrahman on his brand and continues to maintain a strong influence, pushed the designer to move everything from Florence back to his homeland of Dubai. Speaking to StyleZeitgeist’s Eugene Rabkin Michele touched on how instrumental she was in the decision, “Dubai and especially Sharjah are incredible places. Sharjah has the most impressive art foundation. The Arabic culture has such a rich history, and I thought that it’s good for Thamanyah to be where Ahmed’s home is. No one understand the mix of the Middle Eastern and Western couture better than he does.” It is a beautiful space- minimal and raw. It’s the perfect representation of modernity and tradition which are two strong components of the Thamanyah label. Read the full story on sz-mag. (Photos courtesy of Thamanyah for sz-mag). 

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Abasi Rosborough: How One New Brand Is Reimagining the Men’s Suit for T Magazine

T Magazine’s Noah Johnson talks to Abasi Rosborough about their reinvention of the suit in the latest T Magazine story. After meeting and graduating from FIT in 2008 (the school I currently attend), Greg Rosborough and Abdul Abasi began figuring out ways of advancing the men’s suit. By removing all buttons but one and reducing the collar lapel to a single line, these were a few of the changes they made to make a suit more movable, comfortable and more up to date with the times. Read the full story here. Photograph by Marko Metzinger.

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Craig Green Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign

 Here is a look at the Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign for Craig Green. After an interesting campaign debut last season with Nick Knight, the brand changes directions slightly with their latest photographed by Amy Gwatkin and styled by Vincent Levy. This campaign feels more focused on atmosphere and mood, than the last one which was more focused on movement and fluidity. I  like the juxtaposition of the garments, with the brutalist backdrop. 

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Helmut Lang Speaks to Vogue about his Fall 1998 Virtual Show

Helmut Lang gave a once in a lifetime interview to Vogue Runway about his virtual Fall 1998 show which in his own words, he described as being “a shock to the system.” The designer turned artist was one of the first to turn to the internet to showcase his show. In fact, Helmut Lang was the first to do many things. The fashion world especially at this time was not as inclusive, but of course the innovative and always forward thinking artist was way ahead of the curve. To Vogue he says (via email of course),  “It was a shock to the system, but a beginning of the new normal. In terms of the broader context of the industry, we made in the same season the entire collection available on a public platform, allowing consumers for the first time to get an unfiltered view of my work.” Read the story in full, here. 

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Robert Geller Fall/Winter 2016 Collection

Here is a look at the Fall/Winter 2016 Collection from Robert Geller. This collection was one of Geller’s strongest to date. Everything started off with the gray scale and moved slowly into color. One of the things that I liked about this collection in particular was how he capitalized on all of the elements that make the brand stand out. For instance, the free and flowing streamlined high-waist pant that Geller has turned into a brand staple, not only was it presented in black and gray but also jewel tones. The volume he created was also another highlight, with long cocoon-like coats and body hugging garments. Another aspect of the collection I got really excited about was the continuation of the Robert Geller for Common Projects footwear collaboration. Their Chelsea Boot which first made its appearance a few seasons ago is here to stay, and rightfully so. 

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Carpenters Workshop Gallery Introduces New Work from Rick Owens, Andrea Branzi and more

Carpenters Workshop Gallery has introduced its first exhibition of the year, featuring works from Rick Owens (Plug Table, above), Andrea Branzi, Atelier Van Lieshout, Vincent Dubourg and Charles Trevelyan among many other personal favorites. The exhibition which coincides with this year’s Maison et objet, features many brutalist pieces made from various metals, which is a definite go-to for interior inspiration. 

'Les Cordes', by Mathieu Lehanneur

'Pow' round table, by Robert Standler

'Tree 6B', by Andrea Branzi

'Périmètre #01' (left) and 'Périmètre #02' tables, by Normal Studio

'Cosmos' table lamp, by Frederik Molenschot of Studio Molen

'Strong' chairs, by Atelier Van Lieshout; and 'Barometro' lamp, by Giacomo Ravagli

'Haze Rectangular Table with Box (White, Grey and Navy)', by Wonmin Park

'Plug Table', by Rick Owens

'Quatre Saisons Bibliothèque' (left) amd 'Cisco' buffet, both by Ingrid Donat

'Askance', by Charles Trevelyan

'Gaia Imprint Low Table', by Vincent Dubourg

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Cedric Jacquemyn Fall/Winter 2016 Collection

Here is a look at the Fall/Winter 2016 Collection from Cedric Jacquemyn, “The Dead Tree Gives no Shelter” with photography by Yves de Brabander and modeled by  Elias Cafmeyer. What I liked most about this collection in particular was how much of it already matches with the Cedric Jacquemyn pieces in your wardrobe. It’s all about consistency and building a wardrobe over time. This season was all about a streamlined silhouette, including a variety of strong outerwear pieces. I really liked the fabric combinations, shapes and geometry of the coats as well as the muted color palette. A strong selection of everything we have come to know the Belgian brand for.