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@69-chevy-blazer
Started with the LMC 67-72 4WD Step Bars (#37-6351); Added a spacer; Flipped a bracket; Mount the rear bracket just behind the existing body mount; There was an existing hole in the frame.
http://www.lmctruck.com/features/cb/cbsb8.htm
LMC Step bars for C10; Adapted for K5 Blazer; Used 2″x3″ steel tubing for the spacer; Used existing hole in the frame just behind the rear body mount;
2015 Good Guys 1st North Carolina Nationals
https://www.good-guys.com/ncn-2015
K5 Bikini Top (progress)
Got the top-secret window frame rail painted. Did some research on painting PVC and wound up using a plastic primer followed by rattle-can bedliner. Cut and glued a 1/8" acoustic mat on the bottom to make a good seal between the board and rail. Installed the snaps and mounted to the top of the rail using some cool shoulder bolts from McMaster-Carr.
Not a terrible outcome. I think it will be much better once I figure out how to do the cross bars to hold up the middle of the top. Planning on 1" tube and some kind of quick connect device welded to a fabricated L-bracket...or something.
K5 Bikini Top Fabrication
Started in on fabrication for the bikini top. Started with the CJ7 top from Bestop. As indicated on a number of forums, it was a close fit except for the front which needs a trim to match the curve of the Blazer.
Learned to sew in the process. That was a panic given that I've never touched a sewing machine. Came out ok, but this is supposed to be a "quick" prototype anyway. Installed the snaps. Still working on the mount for the top of the window frame. That's taking a bit longer than anticipated.
Rollbar. Finally.
Photos from Cars & Coffee at the Raleigh Grand NC
Carter AFB Carb Rebuild and Tuning Fun
Finally found the nerve/time to order the rebuild kit for the Carter AFB 9000 and dove in. Enjoyed the prep work which involved reading the book, "How to Rebuild and Modify Carter/Edelbrock Carburetors". Rather than blindly following the step-by-step, I actually wanted to better understand how carburetors worked. I've tinkered with quite a few small engine carbs, but never a classic four-barrel like the Carter.
The process was pretty straight forward, and I was pleased to find some major things jacked up. Accelerator pump plunger had disintegrate, the floats were waaaaay off (not sure why), one of the needle screens had come off entirely, and there was still crud and varnish hiding in corners.
Spent several hours stepping through the book and a few videos, cleaned it up and bolted it back in place. Fired up just fine - but I did keep the fire extinguisher close by in case I screwed something up. Now that the mixture screws were actually working, it was running too lean and threw a couple backfires through the carb which scared the crap out of me. I didn't like that it took 3+ turns to get it to lean out with max vacuum. Used that as an excuse to fiddle with the metering rods, springs, timing. Here's what I ended up with:
Original rods: 0.071 x 0.047 New: 0.068 x 0.042
Stock Jets: .113" (primary) .107" (secondaries) New: ???
Original springs: 4"Hg New: 7"Hg
Previous timing: 16 degrees New: 12 degrees
Idle is good around 750 rpms. Still stumbles a bit transitioning to WOT. Seems like it's burning a ton a fuel, but that's probably because I'm hammering it every chance I get. Doesn't smell rich (no smoke either), but I should probably check the plugs soon to make sure.
Next up: Steering pump rebuild
New High-stall Torque Converter + Flex Plate
Swapped in the new torque converter and flex plate. Also replaced the worn detent kickdown cable. Each part took two attempts. Ordered the wrong flex plate at first and the new kickdown cable was way shorter than the original. The new higher-stall TC was a big help. Doesn't lurch in to gear and maintains a nice 500-600rpm when idling. 1800-2000 won't win any drag races, but it's a noticeable difference getting into the power band sooner.
So it turns out, the block itself is a "638" with zz4/L98 heads, intake, etc. Most likely from a 87-92 Carmaro. Once I get the carb rebuilt, I'm definitely taking it up to Mayhem Motorsports to get a dyno run.
It's running good with the exception of a new exhaust leak just before the muffler. Putty or weld will fix that up.
Next up:
drill holes for rear seat belts
rollbar
rust / body work
After the engine is up to temp, it doesn't sound as bad. There does seem to be a slight "wobble" to the flex plate. Is that normal? I definitely know now that the torque converter needs to be swapped to a higher stall. 2000-2400 maybe. Should help the low idle in gear, clunk when putting in gear and gets me into the power band when moving off the line.
Cracked flex plate...I hope
Getting some ticking/knocking between the transmission and engine - right around the torque converter/flex plate. From what I've read, it's either a cracked flex plate, rod knock or loose torque converter bolts. Sucks that I'll have to drop the transmission/TC to do a proper inspection.
Installed a Lepai mini-amp in the glove box. I wanted something hidden and that I didn't care about if it got ripped off. Volume is OK, but I went with a crappy pair of outdoor speakers.
The one issue I had was that my alternator (and/or regulator) is not very consistent. I get anywhere from 10.9 to 13.7+ volts depending on the RPMs which would cause the Lepai to cut out - safety circuit I guess. The step-down regulator seemed to do it's job. The USB line was able to power the Bluetooth receiver, but there was considerable buzz/hum from the speakers. A ground loop isolator worked. MoGeeks (makers of HomeSpot NFC) also sent me a prototype noise filter which goes on the USB power side. That worked just as well.
12v feed to 3A fuse
DC 8-22v to 1-15v adjustable step-down regulator
USB Adapter 8-20V 12V to 5V/1A DC
NFC/BlueTooth Receiver
Lepai 2020A Amp
Outdoor Speakers
Ground-loop isolator
Took Mom for a ride in the Blazer. She freaked out a bit. Brought back memories (for both of us) of me taking her for a ride on my ATV when I was like 12.
Merry Xmas to me! 33x12.5x15. Nice fit. Went ahead and got a 1" spacer for the rears. Hope to get it on the road this week.
Roof is off. Definitely more challenging than I accounted for. The ratchet straps were a big help, but getting the weight centered was a pain. Wood frame seemed like the safest way to go. Hoist worked well, but I need to figure out how to get it a bit higher up.
Very nice blog, keep posting
Thanks!
Enough Timing for Now
Settled at 14* with a total of 33-34*. Still knocks a bit until it warms up, but throttle seems responsive. Going to leave it alone for now and tackle a couple other items:
minor coolant leak - hose, fitting or some other annoying place
transfer case leak - rear seal