How to Make 48 Scotch Eggs
On April 10 this year, I got an email from a publisher who wanted to put out my novel. On April 12, I moved to a new house I was to share with perfect strangers. On April 18, I split up with my long-term partner.
The breakup left me feeling lonely and sad and strange for months and I cried on trains because between work and home it was the only place I wouldn’t be disturbed. There were a lot of times when I literally didn’t know what to do with myself, where to go, who to turn to, what to eat, how I was ever going to get better.
And all the while, my book was going to be published. People kept asking me, “Are you excited?” but excitement isn’t an emotion that you can feel continuously for a long time, and I didn’t really know what I felt. I started working a lot.
Now it is the night before my book launch. It's the biggest event I’ve ever organised on my own and I thought for a long time about what I should do, and then what I could do, and then what I wanted to do. And eventually I decided that one of my favourite things in the world is a homemade scotch egg, and what I wanted to do was make one for each guest. I got invitations printed up and 48 people confirmed.
So yesterday, I made 48 scotch eggs. Here’s how:
Buy 60 eggs and boil 48 of them. Peel them.
I’ve always wanted to be a writer. When I was eight I wrote about what my bears said when I left the room, when I was twelve I wrote a series of stories about a girl with one leg, when I was a teenager I filled spiral-bound notebooks with awful poetry and burnt them in the garden. I studied it at university. After I graduated I missed being a student so much I worked two jobs to save the money for a unique MA programme that allowed me to write a dissertation and start a novel. I started Everybody Knows This is Nowhere and then finished it, but gave up quickly on the idea of it being published.
Five years later, in January this year, I self-published it, did a little PR, and then a publisher wrote to me and said he wanted to put it out. I didn’t actually realise that I’d been waiting for the validation until it came. And then, of course, I didn’t know what to do with it.
Lay out some bread for a day so gets nice and stale, and then blend it all to crumbs.
In the time since I discovered I was due to be published, I went to a lot of literary events, usually alone, to try and understand the book world. Some were warm and fun and very drunken. Some were cold and unwelcoming and made me feel like I had no right to bowl about in the London night claiming to be a writer. But nevertheless, I learnt how to talk about my novel, how to stop looking at the floor when telling people I’d written one, and how to answer the question, “So, what’s your book about?” without feeling like a total dick. I watched other writers and how they did readings and panel discussions, and I started standing up in front of audiences to speak about my novel.
Get your flavours ready. Garlic and chilli, salt and pepper, spring onions and cumin. You’ll realise later that this is hardly half of what you need.
The sleepless nights began and I often woke up at 4am or 5am, unable to stop thinking. I had a series of anxiety dreams where people didn’t come or I was standing on stage and couldn’t find the passage I wanted to read. It took me a long time to realise it but mainly I worried about not being worth the fuss and attention. What if everyone who even came felt it wasn’t enough and left disappointed?
Add flavours to your first batch of sausagemeat and mix with your hands. Cover the boiled eggs in flour, and set up beaten eggs and breadcrumbs like a production line.
I spent time in my new home getting to know my new housemates. I’ve lived in houseshares for the last ten years and I don’t know if it’s just me but the first couple of months are usually a bit bumpy, especially if you’re strangers. The honeymoon period is about a fortnight long if you’re lucky; after that you have a fair idea of how things are going to fit together.
Wrap the meat around the boiled egg. Make sure that there are no gaps whatsoever, and that you use plenty of sausagemeat as otherwise the meat splits and the whole snack looks like something out of a Hieronymous Bosch painting. If one does split, and it inevitably will, the good news is, you can eat it.
Lottery winners often say that every relationship gets tested overnight when they get the money, but I found that happening to me without the millions of pounds sitting in my account. Friends that I thought would always be beside me did great vanishing acts, while others who I thought I could never rely on have been caring and encouraging and given me ideas. It feels very uncomfortable to say, but I’ve started to look inward more.
After you’ve done the meat, cover the whole thing well in beaten egg and then roll in the breadcrumbs until it’s completely coated. Drop into hot oil, and fry for 10 minutes until golden brown.
Making them takes about twice as long as I thought. When I’m six hours and about two thirds of the way through the kitchen stinks of frying, there’s oil all over the top of the hob, breadcrumbs and egg everywhere and I’ve run out of sausages and chilli and garlic. I think about stopping. Every surface in the kitchen is covered with batches of cooling eggs, and I have no idea where I’m going to store them all or how on earth I’m going to have time to wrap them. When I said I was going to make such a large batch, a few people did tell me I was mad or stupid and at that point I was starting to believe they were right.
But then I remember why I’m doing it, and that is because I think a scotch egg is one of the best things in the world. I’ve had lots of them. Crispy ones, gooey ones, hot ones, cold ones, freshly fried and oven baked. Chicken ones, chilli ones, tikka ones, from street markets and from fancy restaurants with beetroot rocket. They’re like little worlds in themselves. And it’s the best thing I can think of to give the people who have made the effort to come and support me and the book.
So I go to the supermarket, buy the rest of the ingredients, and carry on until they are finished. Nine hours after I started that morning, I’m done. I cry. And then I wrap them.
I have so many hopes and expectations for tomorrow night that I can’t eat or sleep. I have thought about it so often, obsessed about it even; from what decorations to have to how I’m going to get everything to the venue to what I’m going to say in my thank you speech to how much wine I’ll drink to how I’m going to feel about this and that and the other. The thoughts have been swirling around my brain for so long that I’ve almost started to just wish it was just all over.
Sometimes life leaves you feeling like there’s nothing to hold on to. But if nothing else I can hold on to this: that I’ve written a book, and that the book is published. And that’s enough.