T. was quite anxious why we had waited until our second to last day to visit Recoleta Cemetery, the famed exclusive necropolis where Argentina's famed leaders, artists and citizens are buried. It's located in a fairly ritzy area of BA, which we arrived to armed with our newfound subway skills (which unfortunately do not include transferring, as we have surmised the transfer line is out of order). I picked up an empanada en route, and we purchased a map at the entrance to help us navigate the orderly, stately tombs. It was foggy and cold, which felt appropriate to be lurking about in a cemetery. Each tomb was a different form of ostentation, with some denizens going way overboard (generals, I'm looking at you). We saw Eva Peron's grave, and some picturesque graveyard cats, and wondered at the upkeep fees (paid upfront until eternity?). We then went to a historic cafe across from the cemetery, La Biela, which has a banana tree that is over 300 years old in front. There are lifelike statues of two regulars in front, and we found them hard to tell apart from some elderly locals. Tyler got a hamburguesa complet, i.e. a hamburger with cheese and ham. It was surprisingly tasty, as was the battle fuel coffee that helped propel us to our next destination, the Museo National de Bellas Artes. This was the equivalent of the Met, a free museum with works that spanned early modern painting to today. There were many European masters from wealthy Argentines' collections in the 19th century, including some gorgeous impressionists. Once we exited, I was starving - and not for something meat or bread based. At a little cafe by the museum I optimistically ordered an eggplant and pepper dish which turned out to be the closest thing to a salad we've eaten all trip (kale, I miss ya!). T. ordered a lemonata that, of all things, held the sugar, and he stoically drank enough until his stomach hurt (and mine did, cruelly, from laughing). We hit home for a break, and then to the Galeria Pacifico, a mall that houses the Borges Cultural Center. One of Diego's friends had recommended a tango show there, and we thought it would be better than the pricey dinner-and-show events we saw advertised. The dancing was just terrific. I can't say I know much about tango, but I feel like we got to see the array of kicks and turns and lifts that blew me away. Oddly the posture of the dancers impressed me the most - it is very hard to look languid and have a stiff straight back at the same time. There were two singers though, one Ryan Seacrest type and one soap opera star type, that I couldn't get into. The songs certainly sounded schmaltzy, but we were at a disadvantage because we couldn't understand the lyrics. We had a drink in a bar after the show, where Tyler ordered some food. Then a cab zipped us home - we got to see how quickly one way streets can be when they are working in your favor!
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