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FASHION’S MODERN DAY MAN

As Mens NYFW fall/winter drew to a close last Thursday an array of tabloid headlines such as “would you let YOUR man wear this?” are started to appear.

For guys looking good is no longer about clean underwear and a quick spritz of Axe. Menswear fashion has finally been freed from it’s gendered chains, and men are slowing starting to catch on. This season was all about changing our normal expectations from Nasir Masher’s cropped shirts and halter-neck tops to Charles Jeffery’s brightly coloured Blitz kid grab.

Thanks to the likes of Kayne West, A$AP Rocky, and Jaden Smith’s independent approach to style, men’s fashion has been opened up to a whole new younger generation. Menswear had become part of the cultural conversation in a way that it wasn’t before, and not just within the industry. It’s no wonder that menswear is thriving.

The menswear industry is set to be worth around $40 billion worldwide by 2019. Last year menswear saw an overall growth of 24%. Whilst the rest of the retail world faced substantial losses menswear sales soared.

We live in a world where you can wear anything you want and be whoever you want to be. It is not clear if menswear is just having a moment or if it is poised to take its place alongside womenswear as a major fashion industry. But for now, we’re just going to enjoy the view.

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THE CHANGING FACE OF FASHION

After years of complaints that their runways are too white, designers are finally embracing diversity.

It is no secret that a lack of diversity, as reflected on runways and in magazines, remains a troubling problem in fashion. But with the Spring collections, shown this past September and October, came signs of progress. Most notably, for the first time in many years, a woman of colour, 19-year-old Dominican newcomer Lineisy Montego, was the top ranked face of the season by Models.com. She apparels in an astounding 68 designer shows from New York to Paris, five in the converted open spots.

This change comes largely as a result of a years - long campaign by modeling veterans, led by Bethan Harrison with support from Naomi Campbell and Iman, to correct homogenised representation of beauty that many obverses equate with racism. However change has been slow. An analysis by the Fashion Spot, an industry site, shows an increase of about 2 to 3 percent per season of non white models in the overall pool of casting, although they still account for less than a quarter of all runway appearances. But change had also been meaningful, particularly in regard to lucrative advertisings campaigns, the primary source of substantial income models can realistically aspire to earn.

Another factor driving the conversation is the power of social media to highlight inequalities that are persistent throughout society. But there are more power players who are making a stand for diversity, in particular Olivier Rousting of Balmain and Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy. Theallet, for one, says representing an expansive picture of beauty should be foremost in every designer’s mind. “It’s important to show the beauty of everyone, and every women” she says. “More than ever, I think its important to make people dream again”.

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Even though it is still technically winter, the fashion world is already looking ahead to 2016’s warmer days and skin-baring looks. Fashion houses are now launching their ad campaigns to present their vision and collections for the Spring Summer 2016 season. They have recruited the ‘it’ girls, people and models of the moment, as well as the world’s most famous photographers.

Calvin Klein is the latest fashion house to unveil their SS16 campaign – shot by Tyrone Lebon – it is definitely one of the season’s most star studded shoots. Musicians such FKA Twigs, Kendrick Lamar, Justin Bieber and Fetty Wap all feature in the line up alongside models Kendall Jenner and Abbey Lee Kershaw. As well as photographing the static campaign, Lebon also filmed the sexually charged commercial about what they do in their Calvin’s.

The Gucci campaign took inspiration from German pop culture aesthetics in the 80s, as the Spring Summer campaign took place on the background of Berlin. The urban settings of this artsy city – from the rooftops to the clubs/warehouses – provide a great backdrop for a hedonistic and carefree narration. The campaign was shot by Glen Luchford under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele and the images make the decadence and spirits of that period of time come alive and feature Peyton Knight, Elizabeth Moore and Timothy Dibble to name a few.

Conceived by artistic director Donatella Versace, the Versace campaign stars beauties Gigi Hadid, Natasha Poly and Raquel Zimmerman. The models were snapped by world famous photographer Steven Klein and this is what Donatella had to say about her vision for the campaign – “This is todays Versace woman, an individual who is proud of her personality. I love Gigi, Natasha and Raquel and all they stand for”

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REMEMBERING THE LEGEND DAVID BOWIE

"How would you like to be remembered?” “I don’t give a fuck. I really don’t. It doesn’t even occur to me… It’s nice to have just got through it all.” Bowie tells I-D Magazine back in 1987.

This morning we woke up to the gut wrenching news of David Bowie’s death. It’s rare to feel collective grief at losing somebody we as a nation knew both so well, and not at all.

An enormously influential musician, a style icon, a cult actor, a father - there are so many ways we can remember Bowie. With a career spanning six decades (yes, really) Bowie has long cemented himself as pop culture’s most fashion-forward music icon. From monochrome teen mod in the 1960s, to the glitter-soaked, gender-bending explosion as Ziggy Stardust in the 1970s, and the new romanticism, neo-classicism and Berlin-channelling looks that followed, Bowie was best known for undergoing a style renaissance at every possible turn.

You don’t have to be an artist, or a creative to love Bowie because he transcends labels, age or class. Bowie creatively was never about making other people feel comfortable, it was about following his head. That’s an important lesson; embrace change, because it’s always burning and it’s all we’ve got.

As we all continue to float through the world in this peculiar way, one thing’s for sure – the stars look very different today.

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THE FASHION DIGITAL REVOLUTION

The digital revolution started almost 10 years ago and since then fashion publishing seems to have been alternating and as more magazines close, and the others divide in-between weeklies and advertising, what do the next few years hold for us?

It’s no secret that pieces that make up the magazine market are up in the air and no one knows quite how they’ll look when they land. Details and Lucky were closed down, rumours persist about the future of Teen Vogue and magazines are cutting back staff.

At the bottom of all this change lies the high speed, broadband/internet/wifi and the rise of the smartphone/tablet - The Digital Revolution. The way people consume and enjoy media has changed. How old fashioned does it seem now, to enter a newsagents and buy a paper? That image of a businessman with a rolled up paper under this arm? Well these days he’s probably reading the broadsheets on his iPhone.

The fashion industry’s movements may be repetitive and seasonal, but the world is a constantly refreshing infinite scroll, and the idea of only receiving a dose of what’s going on once a month just isn’t enough. News is old before it’s barely had a chance to settle; the new forms of media are all about blogging, instant updates and rolling coverage.

The irrelevance of printed news to a monthly, seasonal, or biannual publication has allowed the printed fashion magazine to blossom into something different. It’s a place for the best writers, photographers, stylists and artists to express themselves; a great magazine is something to cherish and spend time with, not just something to stick in the recycling.

Fashion publishing might be in a state of alteration but then again it’s hardly dying. If anything the separation between news and editorials, across online and print, has freed the industry up to something rather fancy. Instead of battling with each other for celebrity gossip and attention grabbing headlines in order to hit targets, the magazines are battling over the best stories, stylists and photographers to create something rather magical… a masterpiece.

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2015 Highlights

As another year draws to a close Team B2B Media London and New York have been brainstorming and reflecting on our favourite pieces of coverage from throughout the year and here’s a very small selection for your viewing pleasure.

From Brooklyn and Bradley in outerwear brand Parajumpers to top blogger reviews and glossy editorial to Monnalisa dressing practically every Hollywood child we have had a fun year and we can’t wait to see what 2016 brings.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Lots of love,

Team B2B x

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How Sunset Strip Influenced Fashion

Groupies, back in the late sixties and early seventies, believe it or not are an influence on some of the main fashion trends showing through today. These girls dressed to be noticed and to stand out in a crowd. With their wild-coloured lingerie, platform wedges, feather boas, costume jewellery, sequin tops, brightly coloured fishnets, over the knee boots, gold hot pants and teeny-weeny skirts these young ladies were hot to trot. Amazingly, some of the key items that made up the ‘groupie' style are popping up all over our high streets at the moment, with the over the knee boots making a comeback along with the feather boa and fluffy jacket.

The crazy outfits weren't the only thing that was utterly daring. Groupie beauty was also in a league of its own: the wild hair, the over-the-top eye makeup, the post-hookup lipstick smeared lips - you get the idea? The groupies were hot and fun like no one else and their lust for life and their liberation was proclaimed in their style.

There were so many greats: Sable Starr, Lori Maddox and the queen of it all, Pamela Des Barres. The interesting part is that these girls were all pretty much high school students who still lived at home with their parents. It's easy to become a style icon when you're a rich, rock star's wife with a wardrobe the size of a two bed flat full to the brim with designer labels but these liberated girls were much more resourceful and imaginative - from sewing their own miniskirts to shopping at Salvation Army stores for vintage clothes… Nobody has said being a groupie was lucrative or a great career move but they sure had an impact on fashion and the music scene!

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Three ways to wear Double Denim

Once stigmatised as uncool, double denim washes its way into SS16.

1. Clash. Clash denim washes like Gigi Hadid. 2. Patchwork. Texturise your wardrobe with an array of denim wash patchwork. 3. Team Nude. Team your two piece with nude heels and accessories to exude sophistication.

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TREND: CRASH OF THE UNDERGROUND LONDON.

The city of experimentation - London. Where old reputations die hard and, while London is still one of the most diverse and accepting places in the world, those brave attributes of fresh, young, innovation are no longer as visible as they once were.

You will have no doubt heard about Chelsea, Soho and Hoxton and how these areas that once played backdrop to the magnificent rebels who made London the world's core for emerging fashion and art are changing. There's no doubt that London is supposed to gentrify and grow, but it's now facing the danger of losing the all-important subcultures traditionally nourished in these areas. The City is forcing young people to move further out of the city because of steep rent prices with the knock-on-effect being that London is losing its underground scenes which are so important to London's image and mentality.

Maybe London is simply changing? Scenes can actually change to a point where you are actually more underground in your forties than you are in your twenties just because you cannot afford to live in the city and by this time you may be close to paying off your student loan. More relevance for the 30 plus segment probably would not be a bad thing for the youth obsessed world we live in, but if every stop on the Central Line has the same franchised shops and restaurants frequented by the same age groups - and none of them are young creatives - is London loosing its diversity and acceptance which it has sold itself for so long?

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2016 COLOUR OF THE YEAR: ROSE QUARTZ X SERENITY

Clearly, the biggest trend of 2015 is breaking your own rules, because Pantone has just awarded the Colour of the Year to both pink and blue.

Naturally, the colour authority doesn't call the hues 'pink' and 'blue', but Rose Quartz and Serenity. They're the kind of pastel-y, hyper-girly shades that often sees female internet artists like Polyester subvert, deconstruct and play with when highlighting traditional notions of femininity.

Pantone says, "Joined together Rose Quartz and Serenity demonstrate an inherent glance between a warmer embracing rose tone and the cooler tranquil blur, reflecting connection and wellness as well as a soothing sense of oder and peace.

In many parts of the world we are experiencing a gender blur as it relates to fashion which has in turn impacted colour trends throughout all other areas of design. This more unilateral approach to colour is coinciding with a social movements toward gender equality and fluidity.

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LADIES FIRST

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LADIES FIRST

Fashion is, by its nature, entirely bipolar. You can love it, live for it, invest all your time/money and energy in it, but clearly what it says today will no way reflect what it says in six months' time. At the moment the fashion world is embracing a new feminist spirit, but how far have we come?

At long last, feminism is being talked about again. It's the subject which is in our minds, stirring us up, making us feel strong and forever making us hopeful that we may be getting somewhere.

Perhaps the best place to start would be with Chanel's SS ready-to-wear show, Karl Largerfeld's performance of a French street revelation at the Grand Palais. We don't want to linger over the reactions but we should all agree that Mr Largerfeld pointed the finger in the right cultural direction.

20 years ago women's ideas in the fashion world were still being questioned. We can now see women's points of view being prized and celebrated. No one questions a young women's place in control of a brand or as an independent entrepreneur anymore.

Where things are improving for women on the fashion front, is being achieved by quietly, stubbornly, humorous, imaginative women. However, fashion companies are still failing where they are institutionally deaf to women and how we're living. However, there's progress. New generations of girls are rising in fashion with a confidence, that was was almost unheard of in the 80's. It has nothing to do with marching in the streets with feminist placards. But all the same ladies - THE JOB IS FINALLY BEING DONE.

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SS16 Color Trend Focus: Pastel Pink

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The fashion world is abuzz with the sad news that Raf Simons is leaving Christian Dior…Instead of going over the reasons why we want to offer a retrospective of all that was good about his time there. From the new signature aesthetics of sharp tailoring, creative colour combinations, short dresses worn over pants, to making the single statement earring a trend! …Raf we salute you and look forward to your next incarnation!

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Halloween and trick-or-treating go hand-in-hand if you decide to celebrate! So leave the kids to the classic candy version and let us adults raise our glasses to these horrifyingly tasty creations from the SoHo House bartenders.

From left to right :

« Don’t fear the reaper »

40ml Ron Zapaca / 40ml rhum JM VSOP / 30ml Smith & Cross / 15ml Evil Dons Mis / 15ml Coffee Falernum / 15ml grenadine / 5ml absinthe / 5ml All Spice Dram

Add all ingredients into a shaker and whip with a few pebbles of crushed ice. When the ice is fully dissolved, pour over crushed ice into an oversized goblet. Place the glass along with dry ice into your receptacle of choice. Pour brewed coffee over dry ice to create « coffee smoke ».

« Her name was cherry »

30ml vodka / 25ml cherry-infused brandy / 15ml lemon juice / 15ml active charcoal simple syrup / Champagne

Combine all ingredients except champagne in a shaker tin. Fill with ice and shake vigorously for 10 seconds. Double strain into a chilled coupe and top with champagne. Express the oils of a long orange zest over the top and place in the drink with a cherry on a sword, standing straight up.

« SoHo Halloween »

50ml vodka / 25ml lime / 30ml ginger syrup / 10ml creme de mure / Top-up Soda

Shake all ingredients with a single ice cube and dump into a Collins glass. Fill with ice and top with soda water. Garnish with candied ginger on a pick.

« From dusk til dawn »

60ml Mezcal / 25ml cactus pear Shrub / 15ml lemon juice / Egg white

Shake dry, then shake with ice and strain into a chilled coupe to serve. For the skull and crossbones design, put Peychaud’s Bitters in an atomizer and spritz through a stencil.

« Bubonic Tonic »

60ml over-proof rye whiskey / 60ml Left Hand nitro milk stout / 30ml Byrrh Grand Quinquina / 15ml Nocello / 7,5ml simple syrup

Stir all ingredients except stout with ice. Strain into a chilled coupe and top with stout. Garnish with eyeballs on a pick (dried lychees stuffed with Luxardo cherries).

Happy Halloween!

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B2B’s team of savvy, trend forecasting creatives are always first to spot micro AND macro trends! For now, we’ll update you on our SS16 trend roundup from NYFW and LFW.

- White on white

Black is back is finally, dead and done with. HOORAH! We introduce you to White on White. Seek sharper silhouettes for an edgy finish.

- Floral romantism

The wave of adventurism welcomes back Mother Nature. Veggies, fruits, florals, whatever the print - it just has to be organic darhhhhling! 

- Bohemian, always

No summer festival would be complete without bohemianism. Embrace a rural aesthetic next season and clash as many patchworks, fringes and loose silhouettes as possible! More is more for SS16.

- Exposed shoulders

Because no summer dress drapes nicer than on a good pair of shoulders. SS16 invites us women to expose all!

- Pink x Orange

Bold, joyful and feminine, be brave for SS16 and colour block the brights! Lets make that statement ladies…. 

Keep an eye out for our Milan and Paris round ups!

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Blue x