The Panos Project: Viktor & Rolf, Ed Jenkins photographed by Alan Scrymgeour for Arena Homme+ Spring/Summer 2003

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The Panos Project: Viktor & Rolf, Ed Jenkins photographed by Alan Scrymgeour for Arena Homme+ Spring/Summer 2003
There was a sea change in fashion photography in the seventies. What had been polished, bright, and straightforwardly glam gave way, in that decade, to a darker tone. Chris von Wangenheim’s work exemplified the new mood: Alongside his (now) more-famous peers Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin, von Wangenheim drew sex, violence, and irony to the surface of fashion imagery, shooting eyebrow-raising editorials for the likes of Vogue and Interview and equally provocative campaigns for houses such as Valentino and Christian Dior. Von Wangenheim’s career was brief—he died in an automobile accident in 1981—but his oeuvre’s mix of perversion and sheen continues to assert an outsize influence.
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