Galapagos Sea Lion pretending he's a shark,.....
By the way, i waited all of this time to post a couple of great videos, but they're a little big for Tumblr,...
Story of this blog,.....
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@bobandmerc
Galapagos Sea Lion pretending he's a shark,.....
By the way, i waited all of this time to post a couple of great videos, but they're a little big for Tumblr,...
Story of this blog,.....
Favorite girl lookin' good.
This pic never made it in,.....
Mike [in some form of island drag] getting some type of proposition
from James.
Horse racing in Mackay.
The Great Barrier Reef, Sydney, and "Back in the USA"
After leaving Vivo, we headed north to a popular vacation spot called Airlie Beach. After a couple of days there getting our bearings, we jumped on a dive boat for a 3 day trip around the Whitsunday Islands, hoping to see some sights of the reef, do a couple of dives, and meet some people.
The boat we chartered on was an old sailboat that had been converted for the charter trade, and it was a fun way to get around the islands in kind of a unique setting. We thought it was a rather quaint craft, until we spent 3 days banging our heads against the bulkheads over our berths [read “bunks”], and sharing the head with 18 other people. We did enjoy most of our time, and although Merc was sick with a bad cold, she snorkeled at a couple of great sites, and I got 2 pretty good dives in. We also met a few great characters on board, their home bases ranging from Tasmania to Italy to the Netherlands.
Next on the docket was Hamiton Island. If we doubted where the rich and famous from Australia hung out, we had FINALLY found them,…..and they undoubtedly were waiting for us,….. you know you’ve found heaven when there are no cars, only golf carts,…..just kidding [about the heaven part.]
It is a beautiful island though, and we had a great little bungalow right in the middle of it all.
After 3 days on Hamilton, we flew to Sydney, and talk about “bright lights, big city”! From out hotel room, we were equidistant from the Opera house to the Sydney Bridge, and had a great time roaming the areas of new and old Sydney. Notables were the Opera House and Manly Beach. Also of note was the super-pretentious penthouse bar at our hotel where we had our first $ 28. mixed drinks,….oh, and our LAST $28. drinks. Back to beer.
The flight back to the states was 13 hours long and uneventful. We’re currently hanging out [hiding] in San Francisco at Mimi’s house.
A quick note about my traveling partner for the last 8 months.
Merc has been beside me all of this time, and from the questions before we left that basically asked, "how did he ever talk you into this”?, to late night solo watches , and being the only woman on board, she’s done remarkably well.
I’ll never forget the last night of our 17 day Pacific passage. We were an hour or so from daylight and our first sighting of Hive Oa in the Marguesas. We had covered 3100 nautical miles, and Merc was an hour from ending her watch, at 7 a.m. As I was on watch next, I had been drifting in and out of sleep, knowing the wind was dying and that our big spinnaker would be having problems staying full in those conditions. The sounds I was hearing backed that notion up, and as I slowly awoke and made my way to the helm, I could hear her cursing softly as the sail would collapse and she would hand steer the boat to fill it again. She wasn’t calling for help, actually didn’t need any help, and wasn’t going to wake Mike up [who for once was sleeping—in his cabin, no less] . She was simply taking care of business .
There were very few times on the trip when she was asked to do something important, and it really bothered her. I know she wanted sailing and navigating responsibilities but never got them, and I know that it’s a big regret for her. But, she always tried to be a good crew member, even if things didn’t go her way.
I’ve told her that the next time we do this trip, I’m double-handling it with her; she’s the only person I really trust,…..and she’s no chicken.
I couldn’t be more proud.
Merc and I say hello to Airlie Beach and goodbye to Vivo
First sighting.
Getting closer.
Mom says hello,...she really should brush first though.
Mom and little one come over for a look,....
And finally, Mama very close.
Back in the water and ready to go,....
"On the hard"
THE WHITSUNDAYS SO FAR
We’ve tried and tried but have not been able to leave the Mackay Marina for more than a day at a time over the last 3 weeks.
With various work being done on the boat, we were “on the hard” in the boatyard for at least 2 weeks before being able to leave. To make matters worse, the wind here has been howling at over 30 knots for all of that time, and with Vivo being as wide as she is, the fear was that she’d sway in the wind so much that we would scar her sides on the travel lift, causing a lot of damage.
On Monday the 11th we caught a break in the weather and finally got in the water. After a lot of running around provisioning, paying bills, and doing laundry, we were able to leave on Tuesday for the islands. It is always great to get under way to the next destination, but little did we know what we were about to encounter on Keswick Island, just 20 miles from the marina.
As we were sailing towards Keswick I was reminded of all of our departures throughout the ARC, and how the anticipation of a new, unknown destination always left us eagerly awaiting new people and places, with the extra bonus of a long ocean passage to set the whole experience up. What we found on Keswick however, wasn’t something that we wanted to repeat. As we pulled up to the remote anchorage, the charts read “sandy with coral”, but after dropping and getting snugged up, I dove the anchor to double-check that all was right and found massive coral heads,….with in fact, very little sand. And, sitting precariously on a huge mushroom-head was our brand new, never been used anchor, with rode heading off in a completely different direction from Vivo, then eventually heading back towards the boat. We knew we’d have trouble getting the anchor up, and, if the wind shifted, we’d be on the beach quickly with a double mess on our hands.
After a tenuous night with someone constantly on watch , we devised a plan to get the anchor into the dinghy and get at least part of the chain heading in the right direction so that we could pull everything up with our power windless. But at 80 pounds, the anchor proved too heavy to lift out of the water, so we got it secured to the bottom of the dink, and thought we had most of our problems solved. However at this point the main shaft of the windless broke, leaving us unable to pull up the anchor or the 350’ of chain.
The decision was quickly made to leave all of the chain and the new anchor on the bottom for future retrieval by divers, if no one else got there first. We headed back to Mackay with no means to continue without our ground gear. Needless to say, we were pretty bummed out.
The gear was all retrieved a few days later with help from some local dive talent, and as we were returning to the marina, we had more engine problems, this time on the dive boat. After spending time cleaning fuel filters [sound familiar?], I told Mike that it was the gods telling him that in fact, he wasn’t “the lone ranger” when it came to boat problems,…
There was a bonus in all of this as for the first time we were able to do some [very] close-up whale watching. As we drifted quietly along trying to fix the fuel problem on the dive boat, Dave spotted 2 whales a couple of hundred yards off our beam, and our local boys told us that they were a mother and her calf and if we stayed where we were, they would probably get closer and closer to us, wanting to get a look at us for themselves. For about 10 minutes all we could see was the calf, but she slowly worked her way towards us. We wondered where the mom had gone but were told that we was probably underneath us, checking us out.
Suddenly both mom and calf surfaced about 40 feet off the beam; virtually right along side of us ! They were in no hurry, and stayed next to us for a minute or so; coming up and going down in unison, blowing as they went.
It was incredible.
With Vivo out of commission again because of the windless, Merc and I have made the decision to leave the boat, this time for good. We want to salvage some time in the Whitsundays, and have left Mackay as of the 18th. We’ve been onboard for 8 months now, and it’s certainly a bittersweet feeling to be off alone; not going forward towards the original goal, and not being onboard Vivo. We wish Mike all the best and want to thank him for a job week done, albeit unfinished.
We’re heading to Sidney after the Whitsundays and will post again.
The End Is Near
Vivo is still on the hard, in the air, so to speak, and we hope to be back in the water tomorrow or the next day.
However, we do have a huge announcement to make.
A couple of days ago, Mike made the decision to drop out of the Arc and stay in this part of the world for the foreseeable future. He wants to slow down and enjoy Australia and some of the incredible spots we’ve just spent the last 6 or 7 months sailing through, realizing that it’s really hard to get a boat back here from the Northern Hemisphere.
This means that Merc and my trip is essentially done. We’ll be on Vivo the rest of August with Mike and Dawn, cruising the Great Barrier Reef, then a few days in Sidney, then home to the States. From there, we’ll be catching up on what our kids are doing, and by then we might be able to get back into our house.
From there, we’re not sure where we’ll head, but I’ll continue to post here for another month or so.
If you need to reach me, try me at [email protected]
Thanks
Mackay Marina,.......quite a place, and home for a week or so.
A final toothpick with Lorenzo,...... We'll certainly miss you ! See you somewhere.