boulder&wiser

[boulderwiser]

Returning to an old Font classic - Ian takes it back to his sandstone roots

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Nature throwing some beautiful lines our way at Isatis...

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Instead of rain, we got a double rainbow  - no complaints there

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On day five, we (I) introduced the ‘internalised panic only’ rule, which made me zip it on the top outs, and pull harder. The result? Progress! And a happier Jules.

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Day one and straight on it at Cul de Chien - Loz working Arabesque 7b+

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Off the beaten track at Isatis

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Loz working the 7+8s at Isatis 

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Fontainebleau - third time’s the charm

My first foray into the forests of Fontainbleau (two years ago, and six months after I’d started climbing) bore the hallmarks of a classic Font trip: grazes from ankle to chin, a canny knack for failing to top out (even when I had theoretically already finished the route), complete reassessment of what constituted a foot hold, and the discovery that, when it came to climbing, I officially blew.  

Nonetheless, I left with the firm conviction that I would return to these woods again. Because Font, with its soft landings, shifting light, sweet-smelling pines, and routes ranging from jungle-gym yellows to hard-as 7+8s, is one of nature’s most magical playgrounds.

My second visit was a soggy flop. Arriving tired, for a two-day trip, I had none of the va va voom that kept me going the first time round. Lee, trying his luck on a damp Mary Rose, got an arguably deserved pulley, which did little to improve the collective mood. Along with every other depressed climber, we sought refuge in Font’s Decathlon - our faces were brave, but the trip was over.

This last visit, by contrast, was a winner. And here’s why:

Food - pastries, red wine, cheese, saucisson… we smashed it all. 

Orange is definitely the new black - a backdrop of autumn leaves makes for some spiritual picnics and top-notch climbing pics. Oh, and we saw a double rainbow. No big deal. (Did I mention, we saw a double rainbow?)

A roof and four walls - sometimes you want a climbing trip and a holiday. By investing in a solid base, we avoided the worst weather-related blues, slept well, and - best of all - had the facilities to watch Point Break for the 100-millionth time (a rough estimate). I think we can all agree this constitutes a major score.

Seven days of climbing - unless you’re a seasoned Fontaine-ite, a two-day trip is likely to leave you feeling naff, whereas a full week gives you time to acclimatise to the rock’s subtler charms.

No grades, no stress - most people who’ve climbed in Font will have experienced that crushing blow when you realise the blue you’ve been working the last two hours is a measly 5b. This trip, the climbing books took a back seat, as we roamed the rocks, trying out anything that took our fancy. As with my first visit, there were grazes, fails, and top outs sans style. But, as the week went on, there was also the tantalising sense that, two-years on, I was finally improving.

If you haven’t been to Font, go! The first time you top out, you might well feel like you’re going to die. But, to quote our departed friend, Bodhi: ‘If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price. It's not tragic to die doing what you love.’ (And, chances are, you probably won’t die.)

- Julia

[boulderwiser]

Jerry working Black Moon - 8a! Tricky beta and even harder pinch catch on a 45 degree overhang! Inspiration for the forthcoming Hampi Season? Watch ‘Hampi Local’ @ https://vimeo.com/134398755

[crimpingandinking]

Practicing enviros and climbing gestures. Two birds with one ROCK.

-Andrew

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And another one - based on still from the movie’s opening climb. #crimpingandinking #hampilocal #blocfeatures

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More studies from the Hampi video.

-Andrew

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Some interesting sketches by #crimpingandinking based on stills from Hampi Local. Check out the original images https://vimeo.com/134398755

[boulderwiser]

We arrived in Hampi, India, October 2014. We were there to climb, film and have a damn fine holiday. Then we met Vikas ('Jerry'), and Hampi Local was born. We soon realised that this film was going to be about more than just bouldering - yes, we wanted to showcase Jerry's talent, and reveal Hampi in all its dreamy glory. But, more than that, we wanted to show how, for travelling climbers, a little local knowledge and friendship can turn a good bouldering trip into one that you’ll never forget. Despite growing up in one of the world's greatest bouldering fields, Jerry only began climbing after meeting Hugo, a visiting Spanish climber. They met on the ghats, Hugo waiting for one of Hampi's temperamental local 'ferries', Jerry peddling postcards, like so many local lads. A friendship was formed, with Hugo teaching Jerry - a quick learner - the basics of the sport. This climbing partnership has endured, with the duo now developing new areas in Hampi, such as the softer, kinder White Balls. But, as Hugo explains in the film, these days Jerry is climbing 8a, and is often mentor rather than mentee. Now that Hampi Local is live, we are working on a follow up. In autumn 2016, we want to get Jerry over to the UK to climb on northern grit. With the right support, we will see our Hampi local become Yorkshire tourist, and his simple dream will be realised: to travel, to visit other countries and climb with the locals there. 

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Jules out on Rishimuk Plateau

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White Balls: one of the new areas being developed by Hugo and co. from Baba Cafe

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Greetings from Goa!

"Kugel didn't like tall people, and these tall people were tanned, which made it even worse, the kind of tan that only comes from very intentional tanning; it wasn't that they had been out cultivating their garden, or even engaging in some mindless outdoor sport; no, these two had set out together, with single-minded determination, to become tan. Let's become tan, they had agreed, and after much struggle and sacrifice and aloe, they had at last achieved their goal.

Assholes."

Shalom Auslander, Hope: A Tragedy

[boulderwiser]

Accommodation in Hampi - what we’ve gleaned so far...

We’ve already mentioned Goan Corner on the western side of Virupapur Gadde (Hampi Island) as a popular climber hang out. This spot offers great food (the homemade bread stands out from the white processed crowd), friendly staff, and games to help you while away the hotter hours. Next to Goan Corner, is Manju’s place, which offers similar accommodation in the form of simple, clean huts with mosquito nets and cold running water. Manju seems to rely on fond word of mouth to fill his rooms, and will go to great lengths to accommodate unexpected guests. 

This side of the island, with Rishimuk Plateau nearby, is a good starting point. But it’s worth noting that Hampi’s climbing spots are widespread, and, with the sun steadily advancing from 7am, the closer you stay to the area you want to climb in, the better. For those who hire scooters, these distances might seem negligible; but for the dedicated walker (and many areas can be reached by foot), the starting location is more important.

The guest houses which line the island's main street give good access to the Central and Western Island areas, and to the bridge which leads to climbing areas further west. Gowri Guest House (where, we are told, the authors of Golden Boulders stay when they’re not sleeping in caves) is another option, close to the reservoir and Setuwe and Jungli Plateaus. 

To climb near Hampi Bazaar, you’ll need to stay on that side of the river, as the boats that connect Hampi Bazaar to the island start running too late, and stop too early, for you to be able to travel on the day. The first and last boats are generally heaving, and ticket prices rise and sink - especially for tourists - with the water level and, apparently, the big boss’s mood.

To conclude: if you want to puff away your free time watching bouldering videos and chatting to fellow climbers, Goan Corner could well be the place for you, especially if this is your first trip to Hampi. But if you like your solitude, or have particular projects in mind, you might benefit from shopping around. Either way, good budget options abound. 

10 October 2014

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