In the old days, rightfully erased from his memory – when a genial Aleister Crowley filled the world with wholesome joy and the kindly tales of the forgotten Marquis de Sade kept our firesides merry and pure, when it used to be wrongfully thought a disadvantage to be misunderstood – a man walks down Palm Drive in Desert Hot Springs, California; in the present time of ours, since no memory stands available. Downhill, of course, due to the natural configuration of the terrain, from Hacienda Heights – an ironic name with multiple hues – toward Two Bunch Palms. Generally, a man who is misunderstood has always this advantage over his enemies: they do not know his weak point or his plan of campaign. But not here, not along this stretch of sidewalk where sandy time is near melting at 117 degrees Fahrenheit, putting to shame Meursault’s Algerian humidity. As he walks past Livreri’s used cars shack, beneath the veil of brine and tears his eyes are blinded; he is conscious only of the cymbals of the sun clashing on his skull. A shaft of light shoots upward from a crimson red ‘77 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham’s chrome grill and I feel as if a long, thin blade transfixes his forehead. At the same moment, all the sweat that had accumulated in his eyebrows splashes down on his eyelids, covering them with a warm film of moisture. In his case truth must, out of necessity, be stranger than Meursault’s fiction; for they have made fiction to suit themselves, Camus included. For they are weak.
For the lack of lovely flora – as he is pounding in his blazing head the rhythm of Dylan’s song mentioned above, the rhythm defining his current state of mind, if any left – his eyes, still under the warm film of moisture, inspect the human fauna coming his way and passing by; including but not limited to loud dialogues unmistakably aimed at the vicinal audience rather than the person spoken to, the fine rattle of a few ankle bracelets – that in all objectivity don’t rattle at all – and the numerous disturbed stares whose owners left the building long time ago. Everyone who has had the misfortune to talk with people in the heart or on the edge of mental disorder, knows that their most sinister quality is a horrible clarity of detail; a connecting of one thing with another in a map more elaborate than a maze. If you argue with a madman, it is extremely probable that you will get the worst of it; for in many ways his blazing mind moves all the quicker for not being delayed by the things that go with good judgment.
He simply worships this seemingly derelict town at the edge of the Western civilization; infatuation initially forced upon him by the absence of green manalishi copius enough to withstand the suburban lifestyle of West Hills, CA, nestled at the very western edge of the San Fernando Valley; proving once again that going West has many colorful connotations. Like the sun at Desert Hot Springs midday, adversity explains everything else by the blaze of its own victorious invisibility. It keeps him sane: a man with a definite belief always appears bizarre, because he does not change with the world; he has climbed into the story, and the earth whizzes below him like a zoetrope. Until he reaches the Sunlite bus station and the silence empties the street for a brief of passing by.
Once he remembers walking with his publisher through the Downtown Belgrade, now Serbia, who made a remark which he had often heard before; it is, indeed, almost a motto of the modern world. Yet he had heard it once too often, and he saw that there was nothing in it. The publisher said of somebody, ‘That man will get on; he believes in himself.’ And he remembers that as he lifted his head to listen, his eye caught an omnibus on which it was written No Vacancies. ‘Dane,’ he said to him, ‘Shall I tell you where the men are who believe most in themselves? For I can tell you. I know men who believe in themselves more colossally than Napoleon or Caesar. I heard their flames about certainty and success. I heard it all. The men who really believe in themselves are all in lunatic asylums. My friend Bora Čorba is held on the third floor of the Vojno-Medicinska Akademija. Like them, I tried to be some ten minutes ahead of the truth. And I found out I was eighteen hundred years behind it. And I was punished in the fittest and funniest way, for I have kept my truths: but I have discovered, not that they were not truths, but simply that they were not mine. I did try to find a heresy of my own; and when I had put the last touches to it, I discovered that it was someone’s stale orthodoxy. We aren’t talking the cookbook here, Dane, where quick recipes help the former housewife instill some self-respect and get off the ‘mother’s little helpers.’ After all, if you insist on believing in yourself, go for it, be my guest, just make sure first that you know who your self is.’
As he passes by the Carniceria, recently renamed into Rancho Dominguez Market, the Hispanic rhythm blasts through the ether. The parked vehicles, herding tight next to each other, drop in value proportionally to the increasing decibels, while customers seem lively and jovial, kids galore. His ’99 Ford Taurus, absent here this time, rests at home with a broken fuel pump, pushing him down this stretch for the best of reasons an incontinence can provide: there are occurrences that are not yet true today, perhaps we dare not find them true, but tomorrow they may be. So every man whose fate it is to go his individual way must proceed with his Lilly of the West step regardless of distraction neighboring rhythms could induce, ever conscious of his loneliness and its dangers. The smell of ripe watermelon bursting in the field fills yet another dimension of this space, a symbolic unity formed by the languor of the fluids, by the darkening of the animal spirits and the shadowy twilight they spread over the images of the unthought-of; by the viscosity of the blood that laboriously trickles through the boiling vessels, by the thickening of vapors that have become blackish, deleterious, and acrid, by visceral functions that have become slow, lazy and somehow slimy – this unity, rather a product of sensibility than of thought or theory, gives melancholia its characteristic stamp licked by predestination. There is the certitude of an infinite sadness at the core of his consciousness, but the sadness is reassuring, because it alone is way too familiar.
Walking in the direction of the Von’s Supermarket, he has his truth and his homeland only in that fruitless expanse between two countries that cannot belong to him, just like this length in between the Swiss Village and the downtown Desert Hot Springs and the malodor of its evaporating thermal waters. It is the parallax view incapable of measuring both the distance of a single root and that Slavic resignation so dear to Conrad’s heart of darkness. Here in the Coachella Valley the back of his language broke. It could no longer carry its former meanings. This, at first, was indescribable. He projects the lines and colors that affected his inner eye. He conceptualizes from his missing memory without adding anything, without the details that he no longer sees in front of him. As the last resort of godknowswhat he paints the impressions of his childhood in the dull colors of a forgotten day. But the emotion it came out of is something frightening, the unhealthy, feverish illicit excitement of wartime, a lying nostalgia, a longing for the absent. It is so clear to him that he can’t walk out among people without feeling ashamed, as if he is in a street naked. Yet no one else seems to see it. Not one of them saw it. It is an immoral conscience because that terrible lying nostalgia lights every step.
The corner of Ironwood Drive and Palm comes across as desert and bare, a tube of vacuum, a sacred patch of land devoted to meditation. It feels as if Chronos encountered an interregnum, or simply went gambling to Agua Caliente Resort and Spa in Rancho Mirage. Time in Desert Hot Springs tends to evanesce along with the underground thermal vapors, yet this is different. He lets one green turn red, unable to move, touched by somebody else’s disease en passant. Unless we are all mad, he argues, there is at the back of the most maniacal thought a story: and if we are all mad, there is no such thing as madness. If I set myself on fire, it is quite true it may illuminate other people’s weaknesses as well as my own.
As he walks by the side of the building toward a tobacco shop owned and operated by two Pakistanis, Doug is sitting on the sidewalk leaned on the wall. He doesn’t know his name, the guy is the spit and image of CCR’s Doug Clifford, and he extends his hand with a five-dollar bill.
Doug is touched. ‘Generous of you, man, thanks a bunch. What’s your name anyway?’
‘Names come and go, man, today I feel like Cortes in doubt.’ Taking a look back, those wooden ships on the water, free and easy, emerge more solid than soil itself.
There are no names here, no words. The desert cleanses everything in its wind, wipes everything away. The both men have the freedom of the open spaces in their eyes, their skin is like metal. Sunlight blazes everywhere. The ochre, yellow, gray, white sand, the fine sand shifts, showing the direction of the wind. The men know perfectly well that Desert Hot Springs wants nothing to do with them.
Immediately when you arrive in DHS, for the first or the fifth time, you notice the stillness. An incredible, absolute silence prevails outside; and within, even in busy places like this, there is a hushed quality in the air, where the quiet is a conscious force which, resenting the intrusion of sound, minimizes and disperses sound straightaway. Then there is the sky, compared to which all other skies seem fainthearted efforts. Solid and luminous, it is always the focal point of the landscape. At sunset, the precise, curved shadow of the earth rises into it swiftly from the horizon, cutting into light section and dark section. When all daylight is gone, and the space is thick with stars, it is still of an intense and burning blue, darkest directly overhead and paling toward the earth, so that the night never really goes dark.
You leave the Swiss Village gated community, pass the Mission Lakes Country Club, go down the Clubhouse Boulevard, out into the sandy plain and stand awhile alone. Presently, you will either shiver and hurry back inside the gates, or you will go on standing there and let something very peculiar happen to you, something that everyone who lives here has undergone and which the French call le bapteme de solitude. It is a unique sensation, and it has nothing to do with loneliness, for loneliness presupposes memory. Here in this wholly mineral landscape lighted by stars like the Fourth of July flares, even memory disappears – a strange, and by no means pleasant, process of reintegration begins inside you, and you have the choice of fighting against it, and insisting on remaining the person you have always been, or letting it take its course. For no one who has stayed in Desert Hot Springs for a while is quite the same as when he came.
Perhaps the logical question to ask at this point is: Why go? The answer is that when a man has been there and undergone the baptism of solitude he can’t help himself. Once he has been under the spell of the vast luminous, silent country, no other place is quite strong enough for him, no other surroundings can provide the supremely satisfying sensation of existing in the midst of something that is absolute. He will go back, even walk back, whatever the cost in time or money or health, for the absolute has no price.
The inside of the supermarket is some forty degrees below the exterior, and ironically, sweat begins to pour now. On top of the bare essentials comes a Foster’s Lager 25 ounce can, perfectly illegal for street consumption in California. Whenever you spot a shady looking person carrying one of those brown-sugar brown paper bags, you don’t need a Rolex to tell the time. California is a delusion entirely surrounded by liars in fancy clothes, perpetually disputed by poets in rags. Realizing that any further delay just postpones the inevitable sentence, he pays, buys a Mega Lotto ticket, and hits the heat head on.
Well aware that freedom of the press – as any other freedom – is guaranteed only to those who own one, as did DiCaprio in Catch Me If You Can, he takes the virgin sip while rotating around the light post, proving once more that the quality of our expectations determines the quality of action to follow. Rectitude, in this petty case of California law, like a jackal, feeds among the innocent. Anyone who has ever travelled on foot up or down the sidewalks of Desert Hot Springs is extremely lucky when presented with the worst possible ordeal which will not actually kill him. At that point he’s merrily in business; with cops around or not, those billies of the vest.
No one in his right mind will ever bicker the soothing qualities of a cold beer. Australian for beer, Serbian for drinking binge, six-pack for football, on this thin, scarcely real and yet so perceptible sensation the whole world hangs as on a faintly trembling axis of the last cry for freedom, before the very use of the word becomes regulated and the Fourth of July turns flares free.
Fighting the incline and drinking regulations, he became conscious of a presence in the air, something which has been there all the time but which he has never isolated and identified – the premonition of inevitable defeat and annihilation. Yet, it requires a certain amount of internal force to break down, since nothing snaps in a gummy environment. Where there is power, there is resistance. A complete self-humiliation requires enormous strength, more strength than most of us possess. He sensed an infinite scream passing through nature around him and took another gulp. Then his gentile dybbuk starts spilling through the Foster’s haze, ‘You are outside life, you are above life, you have miseries which the ordinary man does not know, you exceed the normal level, and it is for this that men refuse to forgive you; you poison their peace of mind, you undermine their stability. And I share your suffering, and I ask you: Who dares to ration our relief? We are not going to kill ourselves just yet. In the meantime, leave us the hell alone.’
This O’Reilly parts clerk stares at him indifferently, ‘You should buy the warranty, if something goes wrong you can’t return the pump without it.’
Bullshit. ‘Maybe I should buy the warranty only and skip the pump. What do you think?’
Another blank stare. Another stage is bare, deserted by human spirit. Two counters down, a young, short Hispanic dressed in blue silky baggy pants resembling pajamas and a white sweat shirt turns head his way, ‘It’s good to be out, yeah!?’
‘Sometimes you just have to pee in the sink.’ He smiles inside; it still feels refreshing to be recognized as a tough guy, regardless of the fact that he has never served time. However, he spent some years around those who did. Repudiating the virtues of the mainstream, criminals hopelessly agree to organize a forbidden universe. They agree to live in it. The air there is nauseating: they can breathe it. Their ambient, thick with permanent tension and charged with rolling hills of mixed emotions, is a true artistic fertilizer, yet very few broke the circle and moved toward the mainstream by pushing their aptitude further. A certain curse hangs low above their insecurities, the fear of foreign, unpossessed places; the fact that you first have to abandon your cave before you could conquer what lies in wait for you. They are not afraid of stepping out, not afraid of facing the unknown: their bone marrow stands frozen in front of the interim. An old pal from his abandoned country, Gaston the Gypsy, tried to explain it once, and it came out crooked. ‘You see that shack? That’s where I was born. You know, one day, when I was a little boy, my mother she took me on her knee and she said: ‘Gaston, my son. The world is a beautiful place. You must go into it, and love everyone, not hate people. You must try and make everyone happy, and bring peace and contentment everywhere you go.’ And so... I became a waiter. Well... it’s not much of a philosophy, I know… but... well... fuck you and fuck the waiters... I can live my own life in my own way if I want to. Fuck off! Don’t come following me to my shack!’
Still laughing in the face of 117 degrees, he marches up the steep incline coming his way once past Pierson. Laughter always has been his most intimate companion, if this boring sentence does it any justice. And the word itself is ridiculous: just-ice! The freakin’ beer got me, he meditates, by the nostrils of my balls. Dear God and Monty Python help me reach Mission Lakes Boulevard and its flats, present me with a break after all, before I even think of how to replace this bloody fuel pump comfortably resting at the bottom of the Taurus’s large fuel tank. Tanks go down sheepishly, they’re good for that, but try lifting them up and balancing them in thin air of your exhaustion and your antimechanical inclinations – then you might have a problem. Any bravado seems like a macho idea until you realize you’re going to do it alone, lying on your bare back under the tons of metal. Bobby Fischer got underneath it like no one before and found at its center, art. I spent my life trying to play chess like him. Most of these gangsters have. But we’re like forgers. We’re competent fakes. You want to know what I want. I’ll tell you what I want. I want back what Bobby Fischer took with him when he disappeared: the art of devotion. Object matters none, it’s all inside looking out. For me, introspection is a complex game, both mental and concrete, which is acted out in a physical manner on the street. It seems that rebellion must have an unassailable base, something guarded not merely from attack, but from the fear of it: such a base as I have it at the Von’s parking lot, or in the desert, or in the souls of the men I converted to my creed. My mind, it is a naked city. Faith is not pampered, nor hope encouraged; there is no place to lay one’s exhaustion; but instead pinnacles skewer it undisguised against vacancy. Yet beware: listening too closely might drive you insane; or at the very least, disturbed. You’ll definitely need a Foster’s after this. It isn’t a moral beauty contest. Its power arises from the authority and audacity with which the impersonation is pulled off; the belief it inspires is what counts: eloquence, at its highest pitch, leaves little room for reason or reflection, but addresses itself entirely to the desires and affections, captivating the willing hearers, and subduing their understanding. He who joyfully marches to music in rank and file has already earned my contempt. He has been given a large brain by mistake, since for him the spinal cord would suffice.
Shipwrecked by the laughter of the gods as well as his own, he finally reaches the plateau, only to realize the ancient wisdom of an apple appearing gorgeous on a tree branch, while drifting into an unrelated object in his hand: Mission Lakes Boulevard stretches forever rolling up and down, with no shade, no pedestrians, no stores; maybe that cop is still there, high above the intersection with Santa Cruz and its stop signs, vulturing to increase the city revenue by splitting hairs of the Achilles versus the tortoise Zeno’s paradox.
He shakes himself and gulps, then takes a step. At first it is like being at the dentist’s, when he grabs a root with a pair of forceps, and pulls; the pain grows, your head threatens to burst. Afterwards you long for the moment when the pain ceased, but it always comes back coupled with that pair of forceps. He turns his head back towards the town way down below, shrugs it off, well, you know... experience is a muffled lantern that throws light only on the bearer; it's incommunicable. Truth is inedible. It’s a test that nothing can withstand. In a moment you’ll know where you are at. There won’ be anything left but ideas, and there’s nothing frightening about ideas. With ideas nothing is lost, everything can be straightened out. You put up with it for an hour, you’ll need two weeks to recover.
What truth, anyway? This town has no truth to offer, none to hide. It’s just a habitat fancier than those caves used to be, adjusted for time the same way inflation gets recalculated over the years, if at all. And this stillness of life does not in the least resemble a peace. It is the stillness of an implacable force brooding over an inscrutable intention. It looks at you with a vengeful aspect. The most important adjustment here is destroying the lines of demarcation that separate what seems yours from what seems worthless. Perhaps he should drop the groceries, drop the dry fuel pump, and simply run? There comes a time when you look into the mirror and you realize that what you see is all that you will ever be. And then you accept it. Or you kill yourself. Or you stop looking in mirrors. Because the map you are using does not indicate the town of Desert Hot Springs. How inconsiderate on the part of the cartographers – I’ll bet they didn’t forget to indicate their own pitiful hometowns – but they gladly left you hanging in this thin airless environment, nonexistent to them due to its invisibility on their own map. They don’t see you dissipating with some rather diffuse emotion which gradually resigns itself to its own fatal vagueness, as if that it’s a fate against which there is no possible appeal.
As the distance passes it becomes obvious, at first imperceptible, that the word I, as if it has suddenly become obscene or rude or banned from dictionary, is defying him; that he would employ all kinds of evasions and periphrases to replace it. This event may be small and insignificant in its origin, and yet, when drawn close to one’s eye, it may open in its center an infinite and radiant perspective, because a higher order of being is trying to express itself in it and irradiates it violently. It feels like a preview of the coming attractions, without any clue what’s cooking behind the oven-hot horizon. If you just walk and observe, he argues, you will see how restless your mind is. If you try to calm it, it only makes it worse, but over time it does calm, and when it does, there’s room to hear more subtle things – that’s when your intuition starts to blossom and you start to see things more clearly and be in the present more. Your mind just slows down, and you see a tremendous expanse in the moment. You see so much more than you could see before. It’s a discipline, and you have to practice it until your memory becomes accessible again, and show you where you once stopped. So one day – once you leave Desert Hot Springs and its flares – they could whine: he spent time among us, betrayed us by leaving us, and took his reminiscence along. Across the city borders and beyond, into a world we don’t grasp and could care less about – into the hands of a sect of intellectual castrati. Well, he argues, the fact may be accepted, but their simian reasoning raises a doubt: nobody ever went broke underestimating the taste of the American literary public.