https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDDE8VvViFo
You’ll need a screen and squeegee to start.
Also, some photo emulsion for screen printing.
Add water to the sensitizer, then mix it with the emulsion.
Mix thoroughly until it’s an even green color.
Pour just a small amount onto the screen.
Use the squeegee to spread it evenly on both sides of the screen. Try to get even and full coverage by alternating directions and sides.
Dry the emulsion in front of a fan and IN THE DARK.
After it’s dry, quickly lay your artwork, backwards, on the back of the screen. You can print your art on transparencies at most office supplies stores or copy centers.
Tape the art in place, then lay on a piece of glass to hold it against the screen.
Apply a very bright light for 30-45 minutes.
You can also use sunlight, but the time may vary depending on cloud cover and placement.
The areas covered by your art do not get exposed when you remove the transparency.
Use a light spray and soft toothbrush to wash out the unexposed emulsion.
Be careful not to use too much force when spraying it out or you will remove emulsion around your design as well.
Use painters tape to mask any areas that you don’t want to print yet, or areas where the emulsion isn’t intact.
Layout your shirt on smooth, flat surface and remove wrinkles.
Place your design where you want it to be printed.
Lay a thick bead of ink above the art, extended past both ends. Be sure to add extra ink above large areas to be printed.
Even though I’m working alone here, you’ll have better luck to have someone hold your screen, then use two hands to evenly pull the squeegee fully across your screen.
Remove the screen and wash out all of the ink before it dries. After the ink dries, run your shirt through a clothes dryer for 5 minutes to heat set the print.
The screens can be reused by cleaning them with emulsion remover.
Spread a small amount across both sides of the screen.
Then use a hose to wash out the emulsion until the screen is clean. Dark inks will stain the material of the screen, but this will not affect future prints. Just make sure to remove all of the emulsion.
Photo Emulsion Kit (includes emulsion remover)
Screen Printing Ink (white)
Squeegee (multiple sizes)
Aluminum Screen (20″x24″)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOQcfp36LDo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVrMPoh86FM
Six Color Manual Press – With a six color machine you can print most anything.
Conveyor Dryer – Required for any real production, and air flow is a plus.
Flash Dryer – A must if you’re printing on dark garments. Buy basic. Extra bells and whistles won't matter here. ON and OFF are all the controls you'll need.
Exposure Unit – Pinpoint light source is best, but the sun will work on a budget.
Washout Sink – You can buy something professionally made or improvise.
Power Washer – Used for reclaiming screens for reuse.
Heat Press – Optional but necessary if you plan to do any team printing.
Film Output Device – An Epson inkjet printer and RIP software is the package of choice for creating your film positives. Don't overbuy. Most printers rarely use more than a 13" wide film, so an inexpensive device like the Epson 1430 will do the job.
Screens – Wood frames are fine, and you should buy them pre-stretched.
12 -156 mesh – general printing
6 – 87 mesh – puff and athletic
Others as needed. You’ll want to end up with enough screens for several days production.
Squeegees – You’ll need them to be a minimum of 1” smaller on each side than the inside dimension of your screens.
6 approximately 15” with medium durometer blades
6 approximately 5” with medium durometer blades for left-chest designs
Others as needed – purchased by the inch
Inks – Buy a starter mixing system that allows you to mix any color, plus white, black and any common colors such as for local schools.
Scale – Necessary for weighing inks in mixing system.
Quart Containers – For use in mixing ink colors.
Spotting Gun – For cleaning plastisol drips, drops and fingerprints from printed garments. Requires spotting gun solution as well.
Curable Reducer – This product is used for thinning your inks.
Emulsion – A dual cure emulsion is the most forgiving and easiest to work with.
Scoop Coater – Used to coat emulsion onto your screens. At least 1” clearance required on each side from the inside dimension of your screen.
Emulsion Remover – Chemical used for degrading emulsion for screen reclaim.
Degreaser – Chemical for cleaning screens prior to coating with emulsion.
Ink Degrader – Chemical used to clean ink from screens after use.
Brushes – Soft bristle brushes (and separate) used for 1) Ink Degrader, 2) Emulsion Remover, and 3) Degreaser.
3” Tape and Tape Gun – For taping the inside of your screens before printing.
Temperature Tapes – These will help you determine actual dryer temperature.
Spray Adhesive – Low tack adhesive used to hold garments in place during printing. Comes in web or mist spray.
Retensionable Frames – After use, screen mesh will lose tension. Retensionable Frames allow you to tighten mesh after each use.
Safety Kleen Part Washer – Most larger shops use Safety Kleen part washer tanks to clean their squeegees and spatulas.
Tension Meter – This device when placed on a screen will tell you the tension of that screen, measured in Newtons.
Jacket Hold Down – Jacket printing requires the jacket be held firmly in place during printing with this printer attachment. Also you’ll need a plastisol ink additive such as Union Ink’s Nylobond.
Vacuum Platen – Another printer attachment, the vacuum platen holds flat stock products in place during printing. Required for printing transfers and bumper stickers.
from http://t-biznetwork.com/articles/screenprinting/screen-printing-equipment-supply-startup-checklist/
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