Salty Malty Brown Butter Treats

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Salty Malty Brown Butter Treats
How to cook perfect blinis
How to cook perfect blinis
Absolutely delicious with sour cream, smoked fish or beady little fish eggs and a few chopped chives for colour – eat in one greedy bite to avoid serious wardrobe malfunction.
Makes about 35
150ml milk 70g buckwheat flour 70g strong white flour 1 tsp salt 2 tsp caraway seeds 2 free-range eggs, separated 4g dried yeast 100g sour cream 25g butter
1. Heat the milk in a small pan until it just boils. While it heats, put the flours, the salt and the caraway seeds in a large bowl and separate the eggs.
2. When the milk begins to boil, take it off the heat and stir in the yeast, followed by the egg yolks and the sour cream – you'll need to stir vigorously with each addition.
3. Pour the contents of the pan slowly into the bowl of flour, stirring as you do so. When you have a smooth paste, cover and leave in a warm place for an hour, or until spongy – it won't rise dramatically, but it should have expanded slightly, and have developed a few bubbles on the surface.
4. Whisk the egg whites to soft peaks and then very gently fold them into the mixture using a rubber spatula or metal spoon. Once thoroughly mixed, cover, and leave for another 2 hours.
5. When ready to cook, melt the butter in a large frying pan over a medium high heat, then add the batter in teaspoonfuls to the pan and cook until bubbles rise to the top, then flip them over and cook for another minute or so on the other side, until golden brown. You'll probably need to do this in batches, so keep them warm while you cook the rest – these are best hot from the pan.
Are blinis the best culinary kick-off to a celebration, or do you have another, even more sophisticated crowd pleaser up your sleeve? What do you top them with, and do they really go better with vodka?
The perfect black forest gateau
The perfect black forest gateau
(Serves 8-10) For the pastry layer (if using) 60g plain flour 5g cocoa powder 25g caster sugar 40g butter, softened 2 tsp kirsch For the sponge 6 large eggs 140g soft light brown sugar 60g cocoa powder For the filling 700g morello cherries in syrup 3 tbsp kirsch 500ml double cream 50g icing sugar ½ tsp vanilla extract 300g morello cherry jam Plus 25g dark chocolate, to decorate
If you're making the pastry layer, sift the flour and cocoa powder into a mixing bowl and add a pinch of salt. Whisk together, then mix in the remaining ingredients to make a dough. Wrap in clingfilm and chill for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4 and grease the base of a 20cm loose-bottomed or springform cake tin. Roll out the pastry to 5mm thick and use to line the base of the tin. Prick all over with a fork, then bake for 15 minutes, until crisp. Remove from the tin and set aside on a wire rack to cool. Grease and line the tin.
Meanwhile, make the sponge. Separate the eggs and whisk the yolks with the sugar in a large bowl until they begin to thicken. Sieve over the cocoa powder and a pinch of salt and fold in.
Whisk the whites in a separate clean bowl, until stiff but not dry. Fold a little of these into the yolk mixture to loosen it, then fold in the rest very gently, so you knock as little air out as possible. Carefully spoon into the tin, smooth the top and bake for 35-40 minutes, until puffed up and set on top. Leave to cool in the tin; it will sink slightly, but don't worry.
Drain the cherries, retaining the syrup. Mix 100ml of it with the kirsch (the rest is pretty good for trifles and cocktails). Cut the cooled cake into three horizontal slices and put on separate plates. Spoon half the syrup over the slices and leave to sink in; you can add more if it is all absorbed, but don't overload it.
Whip the cream until thick, then sift in the icing sugar and add the vanilla extract. Whisk until voluminous, but not too stiff to spread.
When you're ready to assemble the cake, set aside 12 cherries, then put the pastry layer on a cake stand or board. Spread with a quarter of the jam, a fifth of the cream and a quarter of the remaining cherries. Put a sponge layer on top (be gentle as you lift it) and repeat the jam, cherry and cream layer. Repeat again with the other two layers, and press down gently.
Use a palette knife to spread the remaining cream on top in big, puffy waves. Grate chocolate curls generously over them, and arrange the remaining cherries around the edge. Chill for an hour before serving.
Black forest gateau: a much maligned work of Germanic genius, or a dish best left with steak diane back in 1976? Do you prefer yours rich and gooey or light and creamy – and which other retro recipes would you like to see reincarnated?
How to cook perfect beef stew
Serves 4 – 6
800g shin of beef 2 tbsp flour, seasoned with salt and pepper Beef dripping, butter or oil 2 onions, sliced 300ml beef stock 300ml stout 1 bay leaf 3 sprigs of thyme 2 carrots, peeled and cut into chunky slices 2 small turnips, peeled and cut into chunks
For the dumplings: 100g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder 50g suet Small bunch of chives and parsley, finely chopped
1. Trim the beef of its outer sinew and cut into large chunks. Toss with the seasoned flour to coat. Heat a heavy-bottomed casserole or pan on a medium flame and add a knob of dripping or butter, or a couple of tablespoons of oil. Brown the meat in batches, adding more fat if necessary – be careful not to overcrowd the pan, or it will boil in its own juices – then transfer to a bowl. Scrape the bottom of the pan regularly to prevent any residue from burning.
2. Once all the meat is browned, add some more fat to the pan and cook the onions until soft and slightly browned. Add them to the beef and then pour in a little stock and scrape the bottom of the pan to deglaze it. Add the beef and onions, the rest of the stock and the stout, season, and add the herbs. Bring to the boil, then partially cover, turn down the heat, and simmer gently for two hours.
3. Add the carrots and turnips, and simmer for about another hour, until the meat is tender enough to cut with a spoon. Leave to cool, overnight if possible, and then lift the solidified fat off the top and bring to a simmer.
4. Meanwhile, make the dumplings by sifting the flour into a bowl and adding the rest of the ingredients and just enough cold water to bring it together into a dough. Roll it into 6 dumplings and add these to the stew. Partially cover and simmer for 25 minutes, then check the seasoning of the gravy, and serve with steamed greens.
Is there anything to touch stew and dumplings for sheer nostalgic cockle-warming, and can the British version hold its head high in the face of international competition? If not – seriously, what's better?
How to make the perfect bean burgers
200g potato, peeled and diced 50g podded broad beans 400g cooked black beans 1tsp cumin seeds 1tsp coriander seeds Vegetable oil, to fry 1 onion, finely diced ½ red pepper, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped ½ jalapeno or other mild chilli, finely chopped 1 chipotle chilli in adobo, finely chopped, or 2tsp smoked paprika Juice of ½ lime Small bunch of fresh coriander, roughly chopped 2tbsp cornmeal, to coat
Cook the potato in boiling salted water until tender, then scoop out with a slotted spoon. Add the broad beans to the water and cook for 5 minutes, then drain, cool and skin.
Meanwhile, mash the potato and half the black beans until smooth, then add the broad beans and remaining black beans and mash roughly.
Toast the spices in a dry pan until aromatic, then grind.
Heat 1tbsp oil in a frying pan and cook the onion and pepper until soft. Stir in the garlic and chillies and cook for another couple of minutes.
Stir the onion mixture into the potato and beans, along with the lime juice, chopped coriander and ground spices, and season to taste.
Form into 5 patties with damp hands, and chill for half an hour.
Roll the patties in cornmeal to coat, then fry in vegetable oil over a medium heat until golden on both sides, and warm all the way through. Serve with salsa and chopped avocado.
Bean burgers – a treat for everyone, or a tired vegetarian cliche? And, if the latter, which meat-free dishes would you prefer to see at a barbecue?
How to cook the perfect battered fish
How to cook perfect battered fish
Proper fried fish is a true British art form – and needs little in the way of fancy embellishments. Beer and raising agents, for flavour and volume, and good hot fat are all you need for pure, unadulterated happiness. (Oh, and a piece of fresh fish, of course. But that's almost by the by.)
Serves 4
Dripping or oil, for frying 400g plain flour, put in the freezer for 15 minutes before using 3tsp baking powder 550ml very cold beer 4 pieces of sustainable white fish (I used pollock)
1. Heat the fat in a deep-fat fryer or chip pan to 185C. Whisk the baking powder into the chilled flour, along with ½ tsp salt, and then quickly whisk in the cold beer until you have a thick paste. This needs to be done just before you cook the fish.
2. Position the bowl next to the fryer or pan. Have a plate lined with kitchen paper ready. Dip your fish into the batter and then carefully lower it into the hot fat, and agitate the frying basket to prevent the fish sticking to it. This will also give the batter a more interesting texture. Do this one or two pieces at a time: don't overcrowd the fryer.
3. Cook the fish for about 4–6 minutes, depending on size, keeping a watchful eye on it; it should be crisp and golden. Lift out of the fat and drain on kitchen paper then serve immediately.
Is battered fish an art best left to the professionals, or can you beat the efforts of your local chippie? Which recipe do you use, and what fish do you honour with it? And can anyone suggest a good recipe for proper mushy peas?
How to cook perfect american barbecue ribs
Ribs are one of the great pleasures of carnivorousness, and simplicity itself to prepare, as long as you cook them slow enough to melt the hard-working meat that makes them so tasty, and don't try to get too fancy with the marinade: this is a cut that really doesn't need it.
Serves 4
2 racks of baby back / loin ribs 1 tbsp Marmite 1 tbsp English mustard 1½ tsp smoked paprika 2 tbsp tomato ketchup 2½ tbsp dark muscovado sugar
1. Turn the racks curved-side down, and with the wider end facing you. Use a small knife to peel the edge of the translucent membrane away from the smaller end of the rack to form a tab you can grip on to. Pull this towards you, so the membrane comes away from the bones.
2. Mix together the marinade ingredients and rub about half into the ribs well. Put in a shallow dish, cover and leave in the fridge for 4 hours, turning once or twice during this time to make sure the entire rack is coated.
3. Pre-heat the oven to 150C. Cover the dish tightly with foil and cook for about 2½ hours until tender, basting once or twice during this time, and removing the foil for the last 15 minutes. The rack should end up floppy.
4. Heat a barbecue or a griddle pan until hot, then brush the ribs with the rest of the marinade and cook until charred and caramelised. Serve immediately.
Are ribs overrated, or a porcine classic? Do you prefer spare or babyback, American barbecue or Oriental spice – and does anyone, apart from genuine Pit Masters, actually cook them outdoors?
How to make the perfect banoffee pie
For the base 225g digestive biscuits 100g pecans 125g salted butter, melted
For the filling 125g salted butter, diced 100g soft brown sugar 400g dulce de leche or caramel ½ tsp salt
For the topping 60g pecans 15g icing sugar 4-5 ripe bananas Squeeze of lemon juice 275ml double cream ¼ tsp coffee granules
Whizz the biscuits to crumbs in a food processor (or put them in a freezer bag and smash them to smithereens with a rolling pin), roughly chop the pecans and stir together with the melted butter. Press the mixture into a 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin to line the base and sides. Chill while you make the filling.
Melt the butter and sugar together in a pan, and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the dulce de leche and the salt and bring to the boil, stirring constantly until smooth. Pour over the base, and chill for an hour.
Preheat the oven to 180C, line a baking tray and rinse and drain the pecans. Put into a bowl and sprinkle with the icing sugar, then spread out on to the baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, shaking occasionally. Allow to cool. (The pie can be made up to this point up to 48 hours in advance.)
Thinly slice the bananas and toss with the lemon juice. Arrange on top of the cooled caramel in concentric circles.
Whip the cream and the coffee granules into soft peaks and spread on top of the bananas. Arrange the candied pecans on top and serve.
Banoffee pie: are you a fan, or does it make your teeth ache just to think of it?
Channa (Chickpeas) Chaat
How to cook perfect banana bread
350g ripe bananas (peeled weight) 180g plain flour, plus extra for the tin 2½ tsp baking powder 1 tsp salt 160g soft, light brown sugar 2 eggs, beaten 4 tbsp melted butter, plus extra to grease, slightly cooled 50g walnuts, roughly chopped
1. Preheat the oven to 170C. Put two-thirds of the peeled banana chunks into a bowl and mash until smooth. Roughly mash the remainder and stir in gently. 2. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl, and grease and lightly flour a baking tin about 21x9x7cm. 3. Put the sugar, eggs and melted butter in a large bowl and use an electric mixer to whisk them until pale and slightly increased in volume. Fold in the bananas and the dry ingredients until you can see no more flour, then fold in the walnuts. 4. Spoon into the tin and bake for about an hour until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Cool in the tin for 10 minutes before turning out on to a rack to cool completely.
Banana bread – what's the secret of this johnny-come-lately's success, and do you prefer the moist, squidgy sort, or the light, fluffy variety? Is it a teatime treat, or a weekend breakfast in your household, and can anyone explain if it's a bread or a cake?
Makes a 23cm bakewell tart For the pastry: 140g plain flour, plus extra to sprinkle 85g cold butter, plus extra to grease Pinch of salt Ice cold water
For the frangipane: 110g butter 110g caster sugar 2 eggs 110g ground almonds 25g plain flour ½tsp baking powder Zest of ½...
Serves 4-6 (main course/side dish) 1.5kg aubergines Fine salt 2 tbsp olive oil 3 cloves of garlic, crushed 800g good tinned tomatoes 150ml red wine Pinch of sugar 1/2 tsp dried oregano Oil, to fry 200g mozzarella, thinly sliced 125g Parmesan, grated 50g breadcrumbs Handful of...
How to cook the perfect bacon sandwich
For the rolls (makes 6): 450g plain white flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp salt ½ tsp brown sugar 100ml milk, plus extra for glazing 200ml water 2 tsp dried yeast
2 rashers dry-cured smoked streaky bacon per person 1 rasher dry-cured smoked back bacon per person Unsalted butter
1. Sift the flour, salt and sugar into a large mixing bowl. Combine the milk and water and heat until tepid, then stir in the yeast. Mix this quickly into the dry ingredients until you have a fairly soft dough, adding a little more milk or water if necessary. Cover and put in a warm place for 1½ hours until well risen.
2. Preheat the oven to 220C. Divide the dough into 6 pieces and shape each into an oval (to fit the bacon), then space out on a floured baking tray, cover and leave for 15 minutes.
3. Brush the tops of the rolls with milk, sprinkle with flour, and poke a small indentation in the top of each one. Bake for 15–20 minutes until pale gold.
4. Heat a griddle pan over a high heat for about 4 minutes, then add the bacon (depending on how many you're catering for, you may need to do this in batches, in which case have the oven on low so you can keep the cooked bacon warm until it's all ready). Cook, without moving, until the fat begins to turn golden, then turn over. Once it's cooked to your satisfaction, move to the edge of the pan.
5. Split each roll in two (the rougher the cut, the crisper the toasted side will be) and toast under the grill on the cut side for about 30 seconds until lightly charred. Butter, stuff with 2 rashers of streaky and 1 rasher of back bacon per person, and serve immediately.
Is the humble bacon sandwich the nation's favourite dish – and can anything top it as a hangover cure? (What do vegetarians and other pork avoiders turn to after a hard night?) And why on earth would anyone soil them with ketchup or brown sauce?
REFERENCE
Fast Food ADS vs. REALITY Experiment
Chicken Quesadillas
How to make the perfect baba ganoush
2 large aubergines (about 650g) Juice of 1 lemon, plus a little extra 2 tbsp tahini 2 garlic cloves, crushed 3 tbsp chopped mint or flat-leaf parsley 1 tbsp pomegranate seeds (optional) 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Blacken the aubergines over a gas hob or barbecue, turning regularly with tongs, until completely charred and collapsed (you may wish to surround the rings with foil, as it can be messy). Allow to cool.
Slit the aubergines lengthways and scoop out the flesh in long strands, discarding the skins. Put in a sieve and leave to drain for 30 minutes, or squeeze out if you're in a hurry. Season.
In a serving bowl, stir the lemon juice into the tahini until it loosens up. Add the garlic and two-thirds of the chopped herbs, and season again to taste. Add a squeeze more lemon juice if necessary.
Mash the aubergines gently with a fork, and then stir into the tahini mixture. Top with the remaining herbs and the pomegranate seeds, if using. Pour a moat of oil around the edge and serve.
Baba ganoush, mutabal, patlican ezmesi – what other variations of smoky aubergine dip have you come across on your travels, and which other dishes benefit from a little bit of burning? (I'd particularly love a good recipe for the pepper and walnut dip muhummara, if anyone has one?)
REFERENCE
Cheddar Ranch Chicken Burgers