How to Troubleshoot the Salt Chlorinator
Let's take a quick look at how chlorinators work before we walk you through what to do when yours isn't functioning optimally.
We'll keep it simple: A chlorine generator's primary function is to produce chlorine so that you don't have to do it manually. Once the filter has removed the big organic material that algae and bacteria feed on, a saltwater chlorinator's job is to destroy all the remaining bacteria and algae, which can be dangerous to swimmers. It uses an electrolytic cell that converts salt water into chlorine, killing bacteria and other organisms that make people sick.
By understanding the three components of a saltwater chlorinator and recognising what might cause one to fail, you'll have the tools you need to solve problems. The main unit is also called the controller, the electrode cell, and the cell cable.
No Power/Display Blank
If the control panel shows no indicator lights, there's a very high chance that there's no power.
What can I do?
Try to switch off the chlorinator and ensure the power supply to the control box is off, then check if the wires are all connected properly. If that's all good, then try to hard reset by pressing up and down buttons together until the chlorinator turns off. This should fix the chlorinator most of the time; if not, please get in touch with a qualified pool technician.
No Flow
A saltwater chlorinator is no good unless it's got sufficient water level. Flow rates can be reduced by clogged pump or skimmer baskets, or dirty filters. A no flow error - which is a built-in safety protocol - means that the device shuts down if it can't detect any water.
What can I do?
Ensure that the valves, pump and sensor are on, connect the sense wire to the cell and check for any large air bubbles. If so, you need entire cell of water, because if not, no water will flow through the flow sensor, and a 'no flow' will trigger. Also, always check the pump, the filter, the skimmer(s), and the by-pass valve(s). Clean them if necessary.
Low Salt
The salt cell needs the right amount of salt in the water to convert natural elements into chlorine. The correct level is vital to its output and the effective operation of your chlorinator. A typical pool of around 50,000 litres requires 200kg of salt to initially set up the pool to 4,000ppm.
What can I do?
Do a pool test for salt level and if it's too low, add two bags of 25 kg salt and run the pool filter for a minimum of 6 hours to help dissolve and mix the salt in the pool. If the check salt light is still on, then you should get the water tested. Increasing the water temperature also helps - the colder the pool, the higher the salt level needs to be.
Calcium too high
Scaling is caused by (shh, don't tell anyone) high calcium levels or high pH/alkalinity.
What can I do?
If you see scale build-up, clean your cell for optimal performance and prevent permanent damage to the electrode. If you have a non-reversing chlorinator, check it every fortnight during the peak season. Check it every 3-4 weeks if you have a self-cleaning model. Look for deposits and clean them off with a pool professional's cleaning solution (acid—don't touch it!), and then rinse the electrode in clean water. Refit the electrode into its housing.
Please take into consideration that if your pool's chemistry is imbalanced, calcium deposits might form over your cell plates, negatively affecting the longevity and efficiency of your salt chlorinator, which might consequently affect your ability to claim the warranty on it. Salt cells generally last 3-5 years, sometimes more or less. Their lifespans vary according to temperature, water chemistry, and maintenance.