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[putthison]

Black Friday Sales Roundup

Don’t bother fighting the crowds this Friday. More and more retailers are putting their sales online, allowing you to shop comfortably from home. We’ll be doing a Black Friday sales roundup from now until Sunday, and then make a new post the following day for Cyber Monday. 

For now, here are some early Black Friday deals. Check back often, as we’ll update this list throughout the next few days. We’ll italicize new listings, so you know what’s just come in. 

Oh, and of course all of our hand-made pocket squares are 23% off with the code HOLIDAYS.

A Fine Pair of Shoes: 20% off with the code AFPOS20

Apartment Number 9: Spend more save more event. 

A Suitable Wardrobe: Receive free gift cards the more you spend. $50 card for purchases between $250 and $499; $75 for $500 to $999; $150 for $1000 to $1999; etc. Use the code CYBERMONDAY

Barneys: Select items on sale in-store (40% off). More stuff will be added to the sale inventory on December 2nd. 

Barneys Warehouse: New styles added to sale inventory. Up to an extra 50% off already discounted prices

Bergdorf Goodman: 20% off already reduced ready-to-wear

Bexar: Up to 50% off leather goods

Blue Button Shop: 30% off with the code thank30

Blue Owl Workshop: 20% off everything except denim and leather with the code fall25

Bonobos: 40% off “Turducken” labeled items with the code thehunt

Brooks Brothers: 30% off knitwear, outerwear, and select Black Fleece stuff

The Bureau Belfast: 15% off with the code BLACK15.

Carson Street Clothiers: 30% off most stock. No code needed.

The Corner: An extra 20% off already discounted items with the code cyber2014

Couverture and the Garbstore: 20% off this weekend with the code BLACK28

Dapper Classics: 20% off all ties and trousers with the code TT20

Dents: 20% off everything

The Denim Bar: Spend more, save more event.

East Dane: Up to 25% off depending how much you spend

Epaulet: New items added to sale section

Faherty: 30% off shirts

The Field Outing: 25% off with the code BFW25

Flannels: 30% off select items

Florsheim: 20% site wide with the code LNKTG14

Gentlemen’s Footwear: Use the code bf10 to save 10% on already reduced items. Use accessory20 for 20% off orders over $199. 

Gentry: 15% off all orders with the code THANKS15

Haberdash: 25% off select items

Hanger Project: Visit their site to vote on Black Friday deals

Hickoree’s: 20% off with the code BLAZINGFAST. Free international shipping on orders over $250

Indigo & Cotton: 25% off select items

Jack Spade: Up to 75% off

J. Crew: Up to 40% off select items with the code HOLIDAY

John Smedley: 20% off select items with the code WIJS20

Jules B: 20% off bags and accessories with the code BA20

The Knottery: 25% off with the code GOBBLE

Le Rayon Frais: 40% off starting Friday with the code BLACKFRIDAY14

LL Bean: 10% off your entire order with the code THANKS10

Maison Martin Margiela: 30% off select items with the code MMMPRIVATE14

Matches Fashion: 30% off with the code BLKFR30

M Classic 101: 25% off Saint Crispins shoes with the code blackfriday25

The Merchant Fox: 20% off scarves, hats, and gloves with the code FoxWarm

Mismo: 25% off with the code THANKS14

Mountain & Sackett: 25% off all ties with the code SHOP25

Mr. Porter: 30% off select items.

Need Supply: Extra 30% off sale items with the code EXTRA30

Oak NYC: Half off everything Friday.

Oak Street Bootmakers: 15% off all black footwear; 10% off everything else. Sale starts Friday.

Okayama Denim: 15% off everything with the code kurokin14. Starts Thursday.

Oki-Ni: 20% off shoes and sneakers with the code FOOTWEAR20

Other Shop: 25% off with the code VIPPREVIEW

Ovadia & Sons: Sample sale on Thursday (December 4th, 8:30-7pm) and Friday (December 5th, 8:30am-4pm). Check their website for their office address. 

Overstock: Timex watches for $20

Patrik Ervell:30% off  with the code PRIVATE30

Present London: Up to 90% off at their sample sale. On-site only. Held at 154-158 Shoreditch High Street in London.

Private White VC: 15% off with the code XMAS15

Rising Sun Jeans: 30% off everything with the code BLACKFRIDAY

Rooney: 30% off all regular priced items with the code THANKS

Saks Fifth Avenue: Up to 60% off select items

Self Edge: 14% off Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. In-store or online with the code LetsDrink2014

SSENSE: Up to 50% off select items

Superga: 30% off plus free shipping with the code AWESOME

Union: Sample sale at 116 La Brea Ave in Los Angeles. Up to 75% off old merch. Happening November 29th and 30th. 

WelcomeStranger: 25% off pants and sweaters with the code WARMUP25 

Wingtip: Up to 25% off depending how much you spend with the code EARLYTURKEY14

Wolf vs Goat: $50 for a lifetime worth of access to their wholesale prices (50% off retail). Use code smartchoice

Woodlands: 15% off everything starting Friday.

[putthison]

Ten Tips for Ironing Shirts

Most people hate ironing, but I admit to finding a strange pleasure in it. There’s something gratifying about passing a hot iron over cloth, and seeing a wrinkled mess transform back into a smooth, familiar garment. It is, however, a chore, and like all chores, there are better and worse ways of doing things. Over the years, I’ve picked up ten practices that I think not only help speed the process, but also improve the results. 

Dampen your shirts. Most irons are terrible at giving off steam, so before your start ironing, dampen your shirt with some water from a spray bottle (set it on mist, not stream). This will help soften up the fibers. 

Put damp shirts in a plastic bag. Let the water soak in and evenly distribute by rolling up your damp shirts and putting them in a plastic bag. This will also prevent the water from evaporating. I typically spray down three shirts at a time, and let them soak while I work on the others. 

Press down. Get the job done faster by actually pressing down on the iron. Do this to the back though, not the front, otherwise you risk pushing in new wrinkles. 

Don’t crease the sleeves. Unless you’re in the military, sleeves shouldn’t be creased to the edge. So, iron right up to the edge and stop. You can also use sleeve boards. 

Iron the thick parts first. To avoid having to do touch-ups, iron things such as the collar, placket, and cuffs first. They’re less likely to wrinkle than the thinner, larger areas such as your shirt’s back.

Gently iron around buttons, snaps, and hooks. Don’t iron over them, as they can crack or melt.

Don’t flatten the collar. Iron your collar so that it’s flat and smooth, but don’t use your iron to fold it down entirely. Instead, iron just the back of the fold, where the collar would touch the back of your neck, then use your hands to fold down the rest of the collar. 

Get a good ironing board. Countertop ones are small, but they don’t give you enough space to work. Foldable, four-legged ones are the business. I like ones with slightly narrower, pointy ends, so I can get to tough-to-reach places on my shirt (just under the arms can be a pain).  

Avoid over-ironing. Remember this bit from Seinfeld? Yes, something can be “over dry.” Iron up to the point where the last bit of moisture can evaporate after five minutes of hanging. Otherwise, you risk making the fabric shiny, brittle, or even a bit yellow with time.

Button everything up. If you iron in batches, button your shirts all the way up before hanging them. This will help you avoid that wavy, bacon-like placket that can result from a shirt hanging too long in your closet.   

(Video by Garra Style)

[evolutionofagentleman]

Drakes teaches us all how to fold a pocket square…Useful info gents..

[putthison]

A Summertime Favorite: Penny Loafers

Once the weather warms up and the days get long, I often find that the best shoes are either sneakers or slip-ons. I typically wear sneakers with jeans and casual outerwear, and slip-ons with dressier trousers and sport coats. Styles can really range, but most of the time, sneakers tend to be white and minimalistic, and the slip-ons tend to be penny loafers.

The penny loafer is often thought of as a quintessentially American shoe — a style that’s most at home with tweed jackets and Shetland sweaters, as they were originally worn on Ivy League campuses in the mid-20th century. Today, however, you can safely wear them without any preppy connotations (although, you can also wear them as such, if you wish). With a sleeker pair of European pennies, for example, you can combine them with a soft-shouldered sport coat, wool trousers, and an open collared shirt for a very dégagé Continental look. With some beefroll loafers, jeans, and a light jacket, you can go back to looking like an American, but in a way that doesn’t feel too preppy. 

If you haven’t yet got yourself a pair, consider some of these:

Highly expensive at $750+: JM Weston’s 180 moccasin and John Lobb’s Lopez are pretty iconic, with the first having uniquely high walls around the toe that help distinguish it from the pack. My favorite loafers in this price tier, however, are all from Edward Green – an English firm known for its tasteful designs, quality construction, and beautiful finishing. Check out the Piccadilly, Montpellier, Sandown, and Harrow to start.

Pricey options between $350 and $500: Less expensive, but no less well-made, are loafers from all of your usual suspects. Carmina, for example, has something that looks very much like Edward Green’s Montpellier, while Alden has a wide range of handsome American designs. More recently, Wildsmith (a bespoke shoemaker once famous for their unlined loafers) relaunched as a ready-to-wear brand, and although their loafers aren’t as close to their originals as Edward Green’s Harrow, they’re priced competitively. Shipton & Heneage will also have a nice range of options, and they’re made a bit more affordable through the company’s Discount Club. Additionally, Crockett & Jones is very much worth a look, as are Alfred Sargent, Sid Mashburn’s house line, Kent Wang’s antique calf loafers, and the newly launched Paul Evans.

A bit more affordable at $350 and below: Of course, for more affordable shoes, there’s always Allen Edmonds’ factory second store, where the company heavily discounts shoes that didn’t pass quality control. Flaws are often very, very minor, if even visible at all. Loake’s 1880 line is also worth a look, and they sometimes produce for Charles Tyrwhitt and Herring (just note that some Loake-made shoes aren’t of terribly good quality, so use good judgment). Similarly, Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers will have some nice models, even though their quality can really range. Stick to the stuff that retails for $350 and above, and wait for end-of-season sales. In addition, Meermin offers some of the best price-to-value ratio right now in footwear, especially once you take into consideration their made-to-order program, and Jack Erwin is the best I’ve seen in the sub-$200 price range. For more American styled loafers, check out Rancourt and Bass’ Made in Maine collection.

Shell cordovan: Lastly, shell cordovan loafers are worth highlighting. Although shell cordovan is traditionally a workboot material, it works wonderfully today for slightly dressier styles (think wingtips, tassel loafers, and penny loafers). Alden’s Leisure Handsewn is a really beautiful American model, while Carmina will be more European. Meermin may also be able to make you something through their made-to-order program.

(Pictured above: Hooman Majd in his fifteen year old Edward Greens)

[putthison]

Rise High, Full Pleats, Can’t Lose

The advice that you should always avoid high-rise, pleated trousers - or that only heavier set men should wear pleats - is one of the most tired and wrongheaded ideas in menswear. Especially among fashion writers. Above is the photographer behind Guerreisms wearing a pair of bespoke trousers made for him by Salvatore Ambrosi, which he commissioned through The Armoury. The cut is on the rakish side of Italian tailoring, but as you can see — it looks great. 

With suits, a higher rise is especially nice, since it helps you avoid the dreaded shirt triangle that Jesse talked about. But even with odd trousers (meaning trousers that aren’t meant to be worn with a suit jacket), the cut can be flattering if it’s done well. 

Duke Ellington once said of music: “If it sounds good and feels good, then it is good.” The rules about whether or not you should wear pleats are silly. Maybe you like them, or maybe you don’t, but it’s always best to go by your eye. 

(Photo by EFV on StyleForum, where some Pitti Uomo coverage is going on)

[fromsqualortoballer]

Summer Staples - 10 Items for Hot Weather

I’m writing this post with a bit of a chip on my shoulder because I know that the San Francisco summer will be a cold, foggy disappointment. The mild SF weather is a blessing and a curse, but in the summer it often feels like the latter. Nonetheless, I know that many of you hail from regions that do change in temperature when the months pass; this post is for you guys. I’ll probably be wearing a Shetland sweater, but if the temperature happens to pass 75 I might change into these.

Madras. This colorful fabric of Indian origin can appear on virtually any garment, and its lightweight and casual vibe is perfect for summer. You can find madras in most men’s stores, but trad staples like Brooks Brothers will have tons of the stuff. Stick to a mardas shirt or tie if you’re just starting with the fabric; madras sportcoats are best left to the advanced players and madras pants are best left to Bill Murray. 

Polo shirt. Polos got a bit of a bad reputation after business casual drones and frat bros took them over, but they can still be a solid summer item if the fit is right (and the collar is un-popped). Like shirts, you can generally find these at any respectable men’s retailer at a wide range of prices. I’ve been perfectly happy with mine from J. Crew, but Uniqlo has some great in expensive options as well (Kent Wang has a more dressed up version if that’s what you want). Keep an eye on Gestalt Clothing if you’re looking for something a bit more luxurious and Continental in style. 

Canvas shorts. My skinny and pale legs just aren’t built for shorts, so I only wear these in summer emergencies. If you have the build to pull them off better than me, feel free to wear them more often. Just keep them slim and don’t let them go past the knee. And if you can’t roll with shorts, just stick with chinos. Pictured: shorts from J. Crew, circa 2010.

Linen. This isn’t exactly an original recommendation for hot weather, but it’s hard to argue with linen’s effectiveness in the heat. You can find easily find linen in shirts, pants, sportcoats and suits; I prefer it in shirts and trousers. One of the best aspects of linen (besides its heat resistance) is its ability to mix well with other fibers. For instance, if the louche linen look is a bit too much for you, consider a linen-cotton blend shirt or a linen-wool sportcoat. These will still carry the benefits of linen, but will show less signs of its telltale wrinkle. The above shirt is an icy blue linen/cotton stripe from Proper Cloth. 

A trim swim(suit). Every guy already has one, but if you’re still sporting 11” board shorts with cargo pockets it might be time to consider upgrading. Try for a 5-9” inseam, depending on your height and physique (I usually opt for 6-7”). I’ve been happy with the above pair from J. Crew, but around that price Bonobos has some with a higher quality tab/zip waistband and traditional waist sizing instead of alpha sizing. I’m not the kind of guy that appreciates high-end trunks, but if you are then consider Orlebar Brown. 

Canvas sneakers. Every summer I buy a new inexpensive pair of canvas sneakers to beat into the ground for the next 12 months. The classic choice would be a simple white sneaker, and it’s hard to go wrong with that; for Summer 2014 I decided to switch it up and go with navy, since it will be a nice complement to all the off-white chinos I tend to wear. The pair above is the Superga 2750.

Sunglasses. They’re good for you and they’ll look good on you. What better reasons do you need? I tend to stick with simple styles like Aviators, P3s, and Wayfarer-esque shapes. Finding well-made eyewear at a reasonable price is difficult, so I often rely on Warby Parker. I also prefer polarized lenses for their increased performance during water sports, at which point I’m also usually wearing…

A breton stripe shirt. I searched long and hard to find one of these nautically-themed classics; I settled on Uniqlo, but Armorlux and Saint James are the traditional choice. You’ll find me wearing it regularly this summer, whether I’m out sailing or just hanging out on the mainland.

Popover. it’s like the polo’s dressed-up cousin; the main difference is that a popover is made from a shirting material like oxford or chambray, while a polo is made form a stretchy knit like pique. Wear it under a navy blazer or on the beach - its power comes from its versatility. This one is from Proper Cloth, but they can also be found at Sid Mashburn, J. Crew, Brooks Brothers, and more. Expect the fit to be a bit looser in the waist, since shirting fabrics don’t stretch like knits and therefore need more space to get over your shoulders.

Sunscreen. Because burns, wrinkles, and skin cancer won’t help your look, unless you’re really dedicated to that leathery old Italian style. 

For more Seasonal Selections, click here.

[fromsqualortoballer]

The In-Between Wardrobe, Part II: Shoes

The “In-Between Wardrobe” is a series of articles aimed at helping men find items that will play a versatile role in their closet. It is written with the idea that most men don’t wear extremely formal or casual clothing on a regular basis; they usually need items that are somewhere in the middle. See all articles in the series here.

Shoes are a critical element of in-between dressing, and are one area that is constantly being messed up by men that don’t know any better. The core idea behind finding an in-between shoe is balancing casual and formal features to achieve something that can be worn with a large variety of clothes. 

First, it is important to understand what makes a shoe a “good” shoe and how to look for high-quality materials and construction in footwear. If you’re not familiar with these concepts, read my previous post on that topic. Once you’re on board with that, join in below.

1. Understand what makes a shoe casual or formal. Finding a great in-between shoe is about finding balance; go too far in the formal or casual direction and they will lose their versatility. To gauge a shoe’s formal/informal balance, remember the following principles:

A smooth shine is more formal than texture. In other words, materials like suede, pebble grain, cordovan, and so forth are intrinsically less formal than plain calf leather.

A sleek toe is more formal than a round toe. A shoe’s last determines the shape of a shoe; dressier options will have slimmer profiles or chiseled toes, while others will be rounder and follow the natural shape of a foot more closely. Compare this to this, for example. 

A leather sole is more formal than a rubber (or other synthetic) sole. Each type of sole has its own benefits and disadvantages, but a thin leather sole will appear more formal than a thicker double leather sole, and that will be more formal than a chunky rubber one. 

A dark color is more formal than a light color. Pretty self-explanatory.

Fewer seams are more formal than more seams. Compare a wholecut to a captoe, for instance. 

No brogueing is more formal than brogueing.

Closed lacing is more formal than open lacing. More on that in a minute.

2. Understand what an in-between shoe is not. I’m hesitating writing these because they are not hard-and-fast rules and can all be broken effectively; nonetheless, it’s easiest to avoid shoes with these characteristics if you’re looking for maximum versatility.

With that said, an in-between shoe is not:

Closed laced. Closed lacing is one of the defining characteristics of oxford/balmoral shoes. Shoes with closed lacing are on the most formal tier and don’t look as correct with more casual clothing; they’re great for suits and can be worn with sportcoats, but an open-laced shoe will be more versatile. Don’t be the guy wearing sleek captoe oxfords with denim.

Aggressively shaped. In-between shoes should have rounded toes because a strong point or chisel will evoke a formality that is incongruent with in-between clothing (and they also look best on closed laced shoes). Square-toed shoes are best avoided altogether.

Black. If you’re just beginning then it’s probably best to save the black shoes for formal designs. There is a wide spectrum of browns, tans, and burgundies that look great on in-between shoes. While we’re at it, save the navy, green, and red for later too (if you get them at all).

3. Pick your style. So what designs make great in-between shoes? I’d say that there are four main categories, although options exist outside of these. They all can be found in a myriad of materials, shapes, and styles, so take some time finding what you like. 

Bluchers/Derbys: These are characterized by their open lacing pattern. This family includes variations of longwings, shortwings, plain toe bluchers, and captoes, to name a few. 

Boots: Many boots come in styles similar to bluchers - wingtips, captoes, etc - but there are also some new shapes introduced. For instance, chukka boots are one of the most versatile shoe styles out there, in my opinion. 

Loafers: there are many of styles and configurations to choose from, but the most popular are penny loafers and tassel loafers. I wrote an article on these here. 

Monksraps: Single and double monks can make great in-between shoes because their buckle configuration increases the casual appearance of an otherwise formal shoe. I’ve mentioned my opinion of double monks before, but I won’t deny that they are cool shoes. 

4. Save up and buy something nice. Well-made shoes are expensive; it’s just an unfortunate truth. There is a huge range of prices, but none of them are cheap. If you’re comfortable going secondhand, ebay and thrift stores can be a great option. The list below covers some of my favorite makers, although there are plenty more. 

 “Accessible” ($300 and under at MSRP): Loake (1880 line), Meermin Classic line, Jack Erwin, Markowski, Ed Et Al, Allen Edmonds (on sale/factory seconds)

Expensive ($300-$800 at MSRP): Crockett & Jones, Alden, Carmina, Alfred Sargent, Sid Mashburn (most made by Alfred Sargent), Peal & Co. for Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren

Look but don’t touch: John Lobb, Edward Green, Vass, Gaziano Girling, St. Crispin

Shoutout to jacobbockelmann for letting me photograph his grail shoe collection for this post; few people understand the in-between wardrobe as well as he does so follow his blog for continued reading on that topic.

EDIT: for those that want to know the shoes in the picture above (L to R):

TOP: Vass, Charles Tyrwhitt, Alden, Allen Edmonds, Alden

BOTTOM: Carmina, Ralph Lauren, Alden, Alden, Peal & Co. for BB

[putthison]

Rugged Belts For Jeans

There’s probably a theory about why a guy my size would like such rugged belts (overcompensating for something, perhaps?), but regardless — lately I’ve come to really like Don’t Mourn Organize, a small, one-man operation based in Utah that makes custom leather goods. Eight months ago, I had Scott, the owner of the company, make me a harness leather belt cut to a 0.25” thickness. It’s thicker than your average belt, but not so thick that it’d be too tough to break in. The color of the leather was originally an unwearable pale beige, but quickly darkened to a light brown after I applied two or three coats of Obeanuf’s LP. It’s since darkened further, to a solid mid-shade of brown, after eights months of regular wear and use. You can see how it looks now in the photo above.

I’ve enjoyed the belt so much that I recently ordered another — this time a two-layer horsehide “Clint stitch” belt that’s so named because the stitching pattern is modeled after something Clint Eastwood wore in one of his movies. I find the Western style goes well with a canvas RRL jacket I own, while the plainer, harness leather belt looks better with heavy leather jackets.

Scott’s belts are beautifully rugged and uncommonly thick. These are not the type of belts you’d wear with dressy chinos or wool trousers. They’re what you wear with denim, fatigues, or heavy workwear pants. Being as thick as they are, there’s something satisfying about cinching up a belt that’s as rugged as your jeans or boots, and it’s great to see how the leather acquires a natural patina over time. You can order one of Scott’s belts in any color you wish, but for me, the joy is all in getting that natural colored leather that darkens with age. Much like how guys like the process of breaking in their raw denim and seeing how it fades, this is essentially the same thing, except that leather gets darker when you treat it to oil and conditioner, and as it gets exposed to sunlight. 

Simple belts like the one I first bought cost $65. The Clint stitch belt ran me $75 (shipping included in both prices). Everything is custom made, so if you want some tweak in the design, Scott can usually accommodate.

To see more photos of the Clint stitch belt, you can check out this post at StyleForum. For photos of Scott’s work in general, check out this thread at Iron Heart’s forum. 

[putthison]

Rugged Belts For Jeans

There’s probably a theory about why a guy my size would like such rugged belts (overcompensating for something, perhaps?), but regardless — lately I’ve come to really like Don’t Mourn Organize, a small, one-man operation based in Utah that makes custom leather goods. Eight months ago, I had Scott, the owner of the company, make me a harness leather belt cut to a 0.25” thickness. It’s thicker than your average belt, but not so thick that it’d be too tough to break in. The color of the leather was originally an unwearable pale beige, but quickly darkened to a light brown after I applied two or three coats of Obeanuf’s LP. It’s since darkened further, to a solid mid-shade of brown, after eights months of regular wear and use. You can see how it looks now in the photo above.

I’ve enjoyed the belt so much that I recently ordered another — this time a two-layer horsehide “Clint stitch” belt that’s so named because the stitching pattern is modeled after something Clint Eastwood wore in one of his movies. I find the Western style goes well with a canvas RRL jacket I own, while the plainer, harness leather belt looks better with heavy leather jackets.

Scott’s belts are beautifully rugged and uncommonly thick. These are not the type of belts you’d wear with dressy chinos or wool trousers. They’re what you wear with denim, fatigues, or heavy workwear pants. Being as thick as they are, there’s something satisfying about cinching up a belt that’s as rugged as your jeans or boots, and it’s great to see how the leather acquires a natural patina over time. You can order one of Scott’s belts in any color you wish, but for me, the joy is all in getting that natural colored leather that darkens with age. Much like how guys like the process of breaking in their raw denim and seeing how it fades, this is essentially the same thing, except that leather gets darker when you treat it to oil and conditioner, and as it gets exposed to sunlight. 

Simple belts like the one I first bought cost $65. The Clint stitch belt ran me $75 (shipping included in both prices). Everything is custom made, so if you want some tweak in the design, Scott can usually accommodate.

To see more photos of the Clint stitch belt, you can check out this post at StyleForum. For photos of Scott’s work in general, check out this thread at Iron Heart’s forum. 

[leaving-fo0tprints]

Tumblr on We Heart It http://weheartit.com/entry/92606954/via/meow_g

[luissssluis]

[suitboss]

[ildominovice]

Summer Inspiration.

Will be pulling off this look when I get white/off white chinos

[thisfits]

It’s been a hot long weekend here in Northern California, with daytime highs skirting just south of the 100°F mark. I figured this is as good a time as any to drop a quick endorsement of my coolest dress socks (terrible pun totally intended)—these navy over-the-calf socks from Dapper Classics.

I picked up a pair two years ago after a recommendation from Derek, and they’re absolutely my favorite pair of OTC socks—if not my favorite pair of socks, period. The thin fabric and open weave wear very cool, and they’ve held up well under multiple washes. Also, unlike any of my other OTC socks on my giant calves, they don’t have a tendency to snag my trousers.

I wore them under my navy cotton-linen suit in 99° heat yesterday, and I was ridiculously comfortable in spite of the conditions, never feeling overheated or even breaking a sweat.

As it happens, Dapper Classics is running a rare 25% off sale today only; use promo code MAY for the discount. They have a wide assortment of colors and patterns, but I recommend just sticking to navy, either solid or with a discreet pattern. I’m inclined to agree with Derek that wacky “fun” socks are uncivilized, and generally live by the Liverano rule—“there is only one colour of sock—Navy”. 

[dieworkwear]

Everything Old is New Again

As it goes with fashion, everything old is new again. This time literally and figuratively, as I’ve come around to being less apprehensive about pre-distressed clothes. Pre-washed denim, for example, has a nice sky blue that’s difficult to achieve with raw denim, and the lighter color goes excellently with canvas sneakers in the summertime. I’ve also recently been wearing this heavily washed chambray shirt from Chimala. The problem with most chambrays is that they’re too much of a mid-blue, like this, which makes wearing them with jeans difficult. This chambray, on the other hand, goes great with jeans and a field jacket when the weather gets cold, and can be worn alone with a t-shirt and denim when the temperatures near 90, like they did yesterday.

Strangely, heavily washed chambray shirts don’t seem to be easy to find. There’s this Chimala (which is available at J. Crew and Unionmade), an RRL, and a slightly dressier version by Acne. If you’re willing to go a bit darker, however, a world of options opens up. Barney’s has an especially large range this season. There’s also this heavily washed denim shirt from The Jean Shop. It’s too thick to wear as anything but a shirt jacket, but it works well as one if you size down.

Read More

[putthison]

Silk Knit Ties for Summer

Silk knit ties are great for wear year round, but they’re especially nice in the summer. This is partly because they go well with the rumpled linens and cottons we wear when the weather gets hot, and it’s partly because summer clothes often look better when they’re a bit more casual (and the silk knit is the most casual tie of all). If you wear sport coats this season, there are few better ties to reach for than the silk knit.

The good news is that - unlike with regular neckties - the differences in quality here are much smaller. All knit ties are made by machine, which means there’s less variation to be had in handwork. They also don’t have an interlining inside (which regular neckties do), so the construction is much simpler. As a result, which silk knit you buy is largely about design and taste.

You can break up silk knits first by thinking of them in terms of their material. Even though all silk knits are obviously made from silk, each will have a different kind of “crunchiness” to them. Some will feel very crunchy in the hand, while others will be softer and floppier.

Of the crunchy variety, there’s Drake’s, Exquisite Trimmings, Conrad Wu for something with a denser weave, and Land’s End, KJ Beckett, Howard Yount, and our advertiser Ledbury for something looser. Notice that the different weaving patterns give the ties different textures. None are better or worse; just different.  

For something softer and floppier, there’s J. Press, Brooks Brothers, Ben Silver, Kent Wang, and The Knottery. Each, again, have theirs made in their own weaving patterns, which give them different textures. Rubinacci and Sozzi also make some in really attractive and unique patterns. You can find Sozzi at No Man Walks Alone, Exquisite Trimmings, and The Armoury (though you’ll have to call or email The Armoury to order).

My favorites? Probably the Drake’s for their width and texture, at least if you’re going for solid colors. Sozzi and Rubinacci are really nice for something a bit more unique. Few ties can beat Land’s End in terms of value, though. At full price, they’re a bit expensive, but if you wait for one of their many sales, it’s not hard to grab one for about $30. If you haven’t already, get one in solid black. It’s arguably the most versatile silk knit you can own.

[omgerald]

Spring Garb: Shoes

Last week I wrote about bottoms for spring and this week it’s all about shoes. If you’re looking to get your shoe game on point for spring, here’s a primer just for you.

Sneakers

Canvas will keep your dogs cooler, if need be, and generally I find that white canvas tends to go well with a lot of different outfits. Stick to the classics like Vans authentics or Jack Purcells. If your dogs can afford to be warmer, then try something like a German Army Trainer, or one of the minimalist shoes offered by brands like Common Project, Acne, or Kent Wang. Sneakers are obviously more casual, so they’ll be fine with any occasion that doesn’t require a suit. I’m back and forth on the sneakers with suits thing, but if you’re in a work environment and you need to wear a suit, it’s probably best not to err on the side of street fashion. 

Jack Purcell, Common Projects

Loafers

Loafers are great because they’re dressier than sneakers, but don’t require you to fuss around with laces which can literally take hours. To me they’re like house slippers… but outside. Ideal shoes for checking the mail or taking out the trash. And when I say loafers, I don’t mean boat shoes. I like to wear tassel loafers pretty frequently, but I also like to keep it meaty with some beef roll penny loafers. Suede works just as well as calf-skin, but beware because some styles of loafers can be dressier than others. What might look good with chinos may not necessarily look good with dress pants.

Alden, Rancourt

Brogues

Brogues are a must-have for any dude. They’re super versatile (more so than a loafer) and if you get a decent pair, and take good care of them, you’ll pretty much up your overall style average by a whole standard deviation. Find yourself a good mid-brown pair of longwing brogues in a good quality leather and you can wear them with jeans, chinos, shorts, and dress pants in almost any color that’s not black. And if you’re in spring mode, then you’re probably wearing lighter colors too, hence the need for a mid-brown longwing.

Meermin, Alden

A good pair of shoes can take you a long way physically and stylistically. And it doesn’t take that many pairs to almost revamp your entire wardrobe. But it also doesn’t take that many pairs to almost destroy your entire wardrobe too. So there’s that… Check the blog out next week where I’ll finish off this series with miscellaneous spring garb.

[fromsqualortoballer]

I’m off for a quick spring trip - see you guys in a few days.

2x chinos

3x shirts

blazer

M-65

loafers

sneakers

belt

shades

See the rest here.