My First Bespoke Jacket.
The challenge of this project was to create something of value from an otherwise cheap material. First, we set out to get the cheapest fabric we could find that will fall into these parameters:
-it should be not more than Php150/ yard,
-It should be the last cut, for "exclusivity",
-the material should be blue to exactly match the shoe intended for this ensemble, and
-the style should be uniquely mine, yet should fit the sartorial rules.
After a few hours of tireless searching, we saw this material lying around a dusty shop in Kamuning. It fitted all the parameters above. After securing the suit material, we next hunted for the right lining. We did not find anything worthy so we traveled to Divisoria. We got the lining from Benson's.
Next, we chose the buttons we envisioned the jacket to have. It should ivory and mottled to contrast the blueness and plainness of the fabric. Since I opt for a 2 button piece with 4 cuff buttons, we counted how much we needed, plus an extra for each size just for measure.
I then decided on the design. I chose to have a 3" peak lapel, two- buttoned, high-stance and patch pockets and discussed it with Mr. Mario, my tailor. He was more than willing to obliged, as one of his best attributes is to follow what the client wants, but will warn you of anything that goes overboard and make one look like the proverbial clown.
After 2 fitting sessions, and some minor design adjustments, I finally got hold of my very first bespoke jacket. Overall, I love how it fits and hugs my body. it never encumbered my movements but complemented it! I felt like I was wearing a shirt! It was surprisingly light, and had no weak points except for the quality of the buttonholes which can be easily remedied next time.
I rated the craftsmanship at an astounding 8 had the buttonholes been a little more crafted, I spoke to Mr. Mario and the problem can be easily solved with a buttonhole machine.
Lastly, for anybody who loves to spoil themselves, invest in a bespoke jacket before a whole suit, as a jacket is more versatile than a suit and it heightens one's individual style.
Til next project!