Trail Hounds by Andrew Denley
Claire Keane
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@fletchthepbgv
Trail Hounds by Andrew Denley
His favorite spot to be
I got this new dog breed book with over 450 breeds and it has a ton I’ve never even heard of before!
For everyone flipping out over this book, here is the front cover:
I actually saw a dog breed book in a Mountain View bookstore when I was in the US last year and it also had an absurd number of breeds in it. I regretted not buying it at the time, so as soon as I saw this one here I bought it. It even has Silken Windhound, Africanis and Indian Pariah Dog in it!
! “Reportedly, these dogs can become grumpy as they become older.”
I look over at Chalo. He is pursing his silver-whiskered lips in silent rage. Someone, somewhere, is having too much fun, too loudly.
! “These dogs bark at the slightest provocation and can be noisy.”
Out of complete silence, Priya screams. I jump out of my skin and need to take a few seconds with my eyes closed, hand over my forehead, to recover.
Apparently Fawkes did some modeling unbeknownst to me. 😂
Those filters get me so good
He only steals wallets and dollars. I have trained him well I guess lol.
Snoozin'
Illustrator Lili Chin’s adorable series Dogs of the World illustrates 192 breeds of dogs grouped according to geographical origin.
More:
tbh i never wanted this post to end
Ahhh I love this!!!
Please remember that pets are not Christmas presents. Never give someone a pet unless you are 100% sure they want the pet, have done research and know the species diet, what kind of husbandry they need, what their behavior is like, what their social needs are like (do they need to live with their species or are they strictly solitary?), and are fully prepared.
Pets are not objects. They are living, breathing creatures and deserve a good, happy life.
This needs to be on posters everywhere.
I once had a swim instructor who played “Simon Says” during game time. And not, “Simon says kick your feet,” or “Simon says blow bubbles,” but “Simon says pat your tummy.” There’s nothing wrong with Simon Says, but she wasn’t intentional about it; she didn’t take full advantage fo the learning opportunities in the game. I think we often forget in training our puppies that we can make the same mistakes, so I thought I’d share a little bit today about one the ways I try to be extremely intentional in training: interacting with people in public. Everyone loves our puppies (unless they hate them), and everyone wants to interact with them. Here are a few of my “rules” for the “game.”
1. If they don’t ask before reaching for the dog, the answer is always no. Always. Depending on the situation it might be gentle, “I’m sorry, she’s working right now, please don’t distract her,” or “Oh, you need to always make sure you ask before petting a dog in public, especially one in a vest like this.” Or it might be quite firm, “She is working; do not touch her or distract her.” I’ve even, on very rare occasions, had to say, “It is a federal offense to interfere with a working service dog and you can be arrested for assault and battery if you touch her again.” I try to keep in mind that it’s not only our puppies in training that we’re advocating for, but all working service dogs, vested or not, and the safety of the public, who often don’t even know they ought to ask before touching a dog, any dog, in public.
2. If they do ask, I try to do a quick evaluation of the situation. Is it already high stress without adding this distraction? Will the dog be successful? Is the person asking low or high energy? Do I have the energy right now to interact with the public and also be able to maintain training standards? If the answer to any of these is no, I try to go with a very gentle, “I’m sorry, she’s working right now, but thank you for asking.” Whether I allow it or not, I always make a firm point of saying, “Thank you for asking,” or, if I’ve just said no to someone else, “Thank you for asking first.”
3. If I do allow it, I have some ground rules for the interaction. “Yes, right now would be a good time to say hello. However, she needs to maintain her position, and please don’t let her lick you.” Sometimes I have to explain, sometimes it’s just a matter of managing the situation. I’m very intentional about this because avoiding all public distraction will never teach the puppy to choose me over them, but I want to be in control of the situation and I always want to work for success.
I require the puppy to maintain position so that they learn that moving towards a distraction will always result in the distraction being removed. If the puppy is in a sit and stands to move towards the person, I give a gentle, “ah-ah” and step away, doing a “stir the pot” to bring them back into position, setting them back into a sit, and then allowing the person to try to approach again. If, after two tries, the puppy hasn’t been successful, I say, “I’m sorry, she’s struggling to be successful right now.” If they are willing and have time, I might invite them to stand a few steps away while we work for success, but most at this point will give up and leave. If she chooses to remain in position, she gets praise, and if she turns away from the distraction to look at me at all, she is cued with “nice” and given food reward. Worth noting, if you start this early (by 12 weeks), they will almost always look to you immediately when presented with a person distraction in public.
If the puppy is in a down and has been successful thus far, I often invite the person to give her a gentle press on one side and scratch behind her ears, effectively simulating a layover. Again, by choosing to be intentional and thinking about our training priorities, we can use the public to serve our needs as much as they use us and our puppies to get a cuddle fix. Of course, the no licking is a given, and I try to explain that not everyone likes to be licked, so we always try to limit the opportunities they have to engage in that behavior.
4. When it’s time to disengage, I try to make sure it is on my terms (or the person’s terms), not the puppy losing interest. Whether they stand up and say, “Thank you,” or I have to set a limit and say, “That’s enough,” and take a step away, what we don’t want is for the puppy to control the situation by wandering off. It’s not horrendously bad form, but it does break one of the cardinal rules of training, always end before they lose interest. I also re-engage immediately with a new training behavior. “That’s enough, let’s go,” is the most common, because we’re returning to good position. If they disengage nd re-engage immediately, I’ll mark it with the cue and feed.
Just some thoughts from today on being intentional about our training opportunities, especially after sitting in Starbucks for an hour and watching the very unsubtle way in which the two ladies at the table next to me kept staring at Joanne and then making loud, pointed comments in an effort to engage either her or me (nothing negative, just a very obvious attempt to “key” both of us).
Would you be able to post a little rough summary of how to judge conformation in puppies?
I typed all this up and Tumblr ate it dammit! Okay, let’s try again ; )
So I cannot give you an in-depth on judging all puppies as every breed is different, and you’ll even get differences within certain lines in the same breed. (Ie: you’re going to look for different structure in a potential AKC conformation dog, than you would in a SV/working line type). I am most familiar with working line GSDs so that’s what I’m going to use for this example. If you want to learn more about judging puppies in general, then I’d suggest Pat Hasting’s Puppy Puzzle.
And for thosewho aren’t familiar with somebasic structureterms:
(Humerus = upperarm)
When judging puppies most like to do it at 7 weeks old, as this is when the puppies are the most proportionate. They will go through many wonky stages as they grow so it is not always fair to harshly judge a pup depending on what stage they are at. And I will show you this with Natsu below as well.
So this first puppy is the blue collar long coat male from Natsu’s litter. I feel he was the best structured puppy in the whole litter, he had a nice front, good feet and pasterns, nice rear angulation, good chest depth, nice pigment, and good overall balance. Now this picture also shows how important a proper stack is, the way she’s holding him is kind of scrunching him up and making his topline look odd. Unfortunately this pup turned out to be a cryptorchid.
But see how much smoother his topline looks here? Now, you have to look past the puppy fuzz as it’s doing odd things. But here you can also see that he has a nice masculine head and high withers. You can also see some flaws better too, such as his steep croup and short upperarm.
From the front we can see he has a nice well aligned front.
Next puppy is the red collar stock coat female from Natsu’s litter. She is not nearly as balanced as the Blue boy, she is leggy and also longer in body. She has nice rear angulation but could have a nice front. She also has short upperarm and her topline just does not flow smoothly. She has nice feet and pasterns, but look at her toes, they point outwards a bit. You will see in her frontal picture below that she is a bit easty westy. She has a femine head and her pigment isn’t quite as strong as the red boy’s but still fine.
We can also see that she has a wide earset.
Now this girl is from a different litter, she has a nice front and nice rear angulation. Good depth of chest for this age, and a strong head for a female. She also has nice pigment and strong pasterns but her feet are a bit flat. She also has a short upperarm, and a steep croup. Her topline also shows a bit of a mild roach to it.
From the front we can see she also has a nice earset than the previous pup.
Now here is Natsu at 7 weeks old. We see a nice head, good pigment, nice feet and pasterns, good rear angulation, and his front isn’t bad either though I’d prefer a bit more front angle to balance him out. Unfortunately he is not stacked properly in the front here so it’s not the best to judge from. We can also see good depth of chest, though I’d prefer just a little bit more forechest. His topline is smooth but he has flat withers and a steep croup. And he could use a bit more upperarm length as well. These faults and strengths have followed him to adulthood. You can also seeing toeing out here, showing that heis a bit easty westy as you will see below.
You can also seethat hehas a wide earset, and a bit narrow in the front.
Fast forward to about 4 months old, he is gangly and unbalanced, he is overangulated in the rear. However I like to see that at this age, as they will lose some as they grow. Terribly long neck, odd topline, obnoxiously steep croup, and his upperarm appears steep here. Not to mention also looking short bodied.
He is 5 months old here, still short bodied and unbalanced/awkward, upperarm isn’t as steep as before, his topline is doing even more weird things.
And finally at 18 months old, he has balanced out a lot. He has nice length of body now, he no longer has that giraffe neck, he’s not overangulated as you saw at 4 months old. And his topline is not doing all those odd things. Upperarm is nowhere near as steep. He is far more similar to the 7 week old picture here.
Some post training photos. He learned to weave through legs today. And went up to a person for loves which is huge for him. So proud!
I wish we lived in a more natural area like the mountains or at least the beach. Instead we are in boring flatland where they closest things to "trails" are the paved walkways around the lake. And we have strict leash laws here which is stupid.
The hardest part about having a nervous dog is finding yourself hopelessly wishing they were scared. That you could just spontaneously go to the flea market without having a meltdown. To be able to even walk around the block without something setting them off. I love Fletcher dearly but sometimes I really wish he was a chilled out dog all the time, not just in the house.
Just some puppy cuddles for an afternoon nap. He was pretty cold.
more baby animals here
Baloo is probably my favorite out of the program dogs. He does migraine and POTS alert, some mobility, and retrieves.
I dropped my pills between some garbage cans and he stuck his head in between, grabbed the pills out and handed them back. He also picks up my cane if I drop it!
I was with him most of the day (Nalla on one side, Baloo on the other) because he does POTS alerts and I’m in a flare currently. That gives him more opportunities to alert and respond, which is great practice for him. When he alerts I check my monitor and if I’m spiking, he gets rewarded. I haven’t seen him be wrong yet.
Only downside - Nalla alerts too. So I was getting alerted from all angles!
Haha the joys of when I go to our weekly classes with our program dogs. Anxiety spikes? BETTER BE PREPARED FOR 5 FLUFFERS TO ALERT YOU
Can't wait for frigid weather when Fletcher and I can go outside for a walk and not have to worry about other people scaring him. It makes for very calm walks plus some off leash time.