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BTS of a Burberry inspired Fashion Film
#’s
Makeup Planning
For my fashion film I knew that I wanted specific makeup on the model. However I wouldn't say that I am fit for the job so I decided to message around on Instagram and see what kind Makeup artists would be interested and have and create the right looks which I am looking for, This is the mood board which I have been sending round, so that they can get an idea of the kind of thing I am looking for.
I have gone with a soft glam smokey eye, with a nude lip. I want a strong set of eyes with with eye liner around the perimeter
Story Board
These are some branding campaigns of Saint Laurent which I found. When typing in Saint Laurent campaigns I found that this style is the most common feature for Saint Laurent to use. It is the type of branding and campaign which is signature for Saint Laurent and really showcases their styles for a variety of collections and seasons. The black and white photography, with black and white clothing. Most of the time it is shot in a studio with a white background, but for example like the top right image, it has been shot on a location with tall buildings, but still using black and white photography and black and white clothing.
When looking closely at the images I have noticed that there are movements showing on the models. All of these images look like a fan has been used on set in the studio or on location to create that movement in the hair of the clothing. this really makes the images feel more alive and gives the photos more dimension. I really do feel that this gives an image so simple and direct so much more energy and fascination. I will defiantly be using this technique and idea in my fashion film.
3 of these images which I have selected here do all feature furred coats, however this isn't a signature for Saint Laurent, but with the fan being used on set, a furred coat would create a very visually pleasing effecting, shown in the top right image. All the clothing which is worn in Saint Laurent shoots are usually black and white and are layered. I feel that this is because it isn't just their signature look but because black and white effects are used, it doesn't take any prime colour away from any pieces of clothing. Also by using layered clothing, it shows nicely with the black and white, giving dimension and showing different textures.
Miley Cyrus performing at Glastonbury 2019
I decided I wanted to look at this performance, as it was something which has stuck in my mind every since I watched it. I love the attitude in the performance and I LOVE her outfit, it is pretty simple and when it comes down to it, it is just wet look leather trousers and a cropped white top, but it is layered up with all the gold branded accessories. Her hair and the rock and roll attitude and look really reminded me of the new looks Saint Laurent have started to integrate in their collections, the causal, boho, edgy looks instead of the classic elegant silhouette dresses. Her makeup with the eyeliner with natural skin and lips also reflects this and could also show the style of the customer which I'm trying to create in the fashion film
Inspiration - Bella Hadid’s makeup
This video is from the TV series Skins, of Effy in a club. I really like her look with the makeup and the way she looks around and at the camera. The lightning with the flashing light is also an effect which inspires me for my fashion film.
https://www.instagram.com/lucygarland/
Eyeliner is common in a lot of Saint Laurents makeup, on catwalk and on campaigns, I came across these eyeliner looks and I love the diversity of the shape and positioning, it also creates a different shape to the eyes.
Vogue UK December 2000 Kate Moss photographed by Corinne Day
Corinne Day
Another image of Corinne Days work, again of Kate Moss for Vogue UK in 2000. Showing a more posed structure but a relaxed outfit. What I like about this image is how natural the model is looking with the makeup and how she is wearing a beautiful dress but so effortlessly with dirty rough boots. This makes the look so interesting to look at and tells a story in a way. You want to ask yourself, where has she been? From a night out or is she just trying on clothes in front of the mirror? Is that not her dress but her boots? You begin to want to know about the model and about the image, which is what I love about it, it gives character and depth.
Saint Laurent spring 2020 Ready-to-wear. Photo: Armando Grillo
Competitors
Saint Laurent have many top competitors, all beginning big well known designer brands. However I feel like this isn't a top priority to the brand, I feel that top designer brands don't worry about competitors as they all sort of do their own thing and have their own unique style. Compared to high street and fast fashion brands they are all competing with the same style and trends each season. Although saying this I do feel that in some aspects they do compete. I think that staying relevant and trending on socials is something which they do and prioritise. Using celebrities in fashion shows and campaigns to make headlines and keep people talking is something which I have noticed many fashion brands doing resonantly.
Versace
Versace, an Italian luxury fashion company, founded in 1978 by Gianni Versace who sadly got murdered in 1997. Donatella Versace, sister of Gianni took over the brand and is still creative and artistic director to this day. The brand is known for its luxurious grand prints, eccentric and striking, catching peoples eyes from fashion shows to red carpets to homeware. I have always noticed with Versace that celebrity endorsement is a huge part of the brands marketing and branding. Top super models are always featured in campaigns and shows, resulting in mass media acknowledgment. As seen in the campaign picture, all models used are huge top models and have millions of followers on their socials.
When looking into Saint Laurents competitors I wanted to look at the brands over all marketing techniques and look. I decided to look at their websites as well. Versaces website is extremely easy to use and to navigate what you are looking for, similar to Saint Laurents website. However I did find that there were a lot more options to filter down what exactly you are looking for on Versace. Also Versace has homeware and children clothing, this opens up a new aspect to the brand and gives people more of an option, which targets a larger audience.
Versace Fall Winter 2018 campaign
This campaign is very much a look book, just like most of the Saint Laurent campaigns, it doesn't have a story but it is visually and artistically put together with the initial idea to entertain with the music, editing and styling. Quick sharp cuts are used allowing many features to be shown, creating a look book for the collection. I really like how different effects are used like the old school film, it gives character and a vintage feel. With this campaign Versace are basing it on the checked prints, the models are styled in this with the same or contrasting set background making it visually pleasing and artistic.
Gucci
I then thought I would look at Gucci as a competitor. I am a huge lover of Gucci and thought that Gucci and Saint Laurent are actually very different. Gucci don't really use celebrities in campaigns, yes Gucci dress for red carpets and events but when it comes to there campaigns they aren't really used and neither are top models, they don't make this a priority compared to Versace and Saint Laurent. However there casings are always very art driven and the models always look extremely eccentric and character like.
When looking at the website it was very similar to Versaces, the options were all the same and it was very easy to filter down to what exactly you were looking for. Gucci also have children's clothing but don't have homeware. This really makes me notice Saint Laurent as a brand, the fact they are very much targeting a certain type of audience and they know what they are as a brand, a night out luxury brand.
Gucci Spring Summer 2019 campaign
This campaign is very different to Saint Laurent and Versace campaigns. It again creates characters and tells a story, it isn't focused on the clothing at all. I you were to watch this without knowing was it exactly was you wouldn't even know that it was a fashion brand campaign. The models and actors in the campaign are all dressed in the Gucci Spring Summer collection but it isn't focused on that, you are more invested in the story and what is being said and going on throughout. I feel that this is very Gucci and expresses Gucci as a brand.
Kaia
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Sadly, hard agree. But on the other hand some of these moves could make sense on their own if you consider that logos can sometimes be the least important aspect of branding and style. It does make you wonder though what they all think of brand positioning in general.
To show his Autumn/Winter 2008 menswear collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, creative director Stefano Pilati broke the mould of the traditional ca...
“To show his Autumn/Winter 2008 menswear collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, creative director Stefano Pilati broke the mould of the traditional catwalk show by presenting his collection via film. Originally displayed on a triptych of screens, the film plays across three frames of action and is here shown in its entirety. Romantic, ethereal and yet technologically complex, the film manages to evoke the twin dynamics of familiarity and formality and the tension of old and new constantly at play in Pilati's offerings for men.”
As explained this was an alternative way of showcasing Saint Laurents A/W 08 collection which Stefano Pilati, the previous creative director presented.
I really did enjoy watching this, it was very well made and extremely creative. In 2008 this would've defiantly been very different for the industry and would've been one of the first big brand to showcase a collection like this. It gives the show more art direction and shows the collection in a more cinematic, entertaining way. movement is created and effects which engage your thoughts.
However there are limitations to showcasing a collection like this. Many people would argue that this isn't the right way to get full potential from a new collection show. You aren't able to see the clothes in the way you would wish as the shots are quite fast cut and there is a lot of movement making the styling and the clothing hard to focus on. Also you are not able to get as many outfits shown as you would with models walking down the catwalk. Another negative which people would point out is that it takes the exclusivity and speciality out of a huge important show which Saint Laurent are showcasing. By inviting big names from the industry to come and watch a collection on a screen is giving them the same experience to everyone in the world to has access to the internet, which may make it less exciting and more basic.
Having mentioned both arguments I do believe that it would make it less exclusive and harder to see the clothing, however it does bring something different to the industry. I feel that in this industry you have to be a bit different sometimes and not follow the traditional ways. Saint Laurent mainly showcase collections through catwalk but this occasion they are changed it up and given something new for people to talk about and discuss.
Branding. The logo
Since I started taking an interest in fashion I always knew Saint Laurent as Yves Saint Lauren with the YSL logo, however in 2003 Saint Laurent changed there logo to just ‘Saint Lauren Paris’. So I decided to look at the development and the change in the logo from the start of the brand. The first image is from an advertisement in Harper's Bazaar October 1939 with the clear as day YSL logo. The next image is of two campaigns from 2008 using a different logo of Yves Saint Laurent, however in that image you are able to see the YSL logo also used on the top which the model is wearing. So from this I can see both logos are being using at this point. The next image is from the s/s 2008 show, the YSL logo being plastered all over the clothing, creating the brands logo into a design. The last image is when Saint Laurent changed all of there logos to a simple SAINT LAURENT PARIS. Personally I do feel that the more recent one is less individual and blends in more with with other brands logo, however change is good and trying out different branding is needed to stay relevant and up to date with styles and trends, as not just clothing changed over years but so does the brands style.