How to make a weighted plush furby (1998 / 2012, boom)
(This tutorial is generalized for both the 1998 and 2012 / furby boom so it will not include process pictures nor will it detail how to close up the faceplate or ears on your furby. I will however provide links to some tutorials for getting you to the point where this one picks up below. Make sure you keep the base of your furby as it will be important later.
Note: The 1998s are easier to skin and prepare for stuffing then the 2012s but the 2012s are often cheaper. Consider your skill level (in my case patience) and financial situation before attempting this project as the plastic beans needed to give the furby extra weight are more expensive than the regular polyfill, and you can get a more polished look with a new in/with box 2012 furby. Or you can be like me and throw caution to the wind. Whatever works for you)
1998
Spork’s 1998 Furby Plush Tutorial!
You guys have been asking, and I’m here to finally give 😂💙✨ Here’s my tutorial for plushifying a 1998 Fur
2012/Boom
What you will need:
A 2012/Boom
Needle and thread
Fabric for base
Razor blade
Screw drivers
Hacksaw (optional)
Time and patience
I’m not
One of my favorite types of Furbies are those itty bitty spaced out furby buddies. For me they are too small to be much use for stimming and none of their face parts move but the bean bag center has always given these fellows a wonderful little bit of weight. This had me wondering if I could make a full size furby with a bean bag core. Turns out it is much easier than it looks and all you need is some extra fabric of any color, the base of your furby, some weighted pellets for use in your bean bag, and a small amount of polyfill. I personally used the polyfill plastic pellets since they were easy to pick up at my local Walmart. I'd recommend using whatever is convenient or cheapest but you can get heavier beans out there.
The first thing you're going to need is the furby you intend to to turn into a plush. This particular tutorial will work for any 1998 adult, baby or 2012 furby/boom. Be sure to keep the base as this will come in handy later.
Follow the respective tutorial for pushifying your particular furby up until the point where you need to begin to sew up the butt.
Set your furby aside for now.
Using scrap fabric cut two squares roughly the same width but never bigger than the base of your furby. Using the plastic base that came with them is a useful measuring tool for this.
Pin the two squares together and sew up three of the four sides. Make sure your seams are tight so that none of the beans can't escape their soul prison.
Invert the fabric so that your seam allowances are on the inside and add your beans, making sure to add only enough to give the bag shape and weight while still allowing it to deform and move semi-freely. Just enough for it to be a proper bean bag but not enough that you're making a mess when you're sewing it up. Beans do not compress like polyfill.
Note: It is not necessary to turn your bean bag inside out and use a ladder stitch to close it up if it does not bother you. The bean bag is going to be inside the furby and not visible but it bothered me so I chose to turn the bag inside out for a more finished look. Do what makes you happy in life, dude.
Once you have added your beans turn the bag sideways so that the seam is facing you and sew close across the top of the bag going across that seam. Once done you should have a functional bean bag perfect for pelting your siblings or giving your furby a core of beans.
And speaking of your furby, it's time to bring them back!
Make a "nest" for your bean bag inside their skull by laying down a layer of regular polyfill at the top of the head. If you have a furby boom I would recommend adding extra stuffing around the faceplate as this era of furbies have larger face plates that poke further into the middle of the furby then the original 1998s.
Stuff around the bean bag to your desired firmness and set your furby aside one last time. You will see them again real soon.
Again using your base trace a circle around it using your remainder scrap fabric. If you have a furby boom or 2012 and you have the original box you can use the scrap fabric in the top of the box to sew up the butt for a more polished look.
I would recommend giving yourself a large seam allowance and making sure your trace lines are clearly marked. It can be a little bit difficult to sew up the bottom but I find the best method is a combination of pins and ample ladder stitching.
Voila! You now have a weighted plush furby! Enjoy your very shaped friend and give them lots of pets!
(P.s If you use this tutorial and have any progress pics please send them to me so that I might include them in an updated tutorial. I will be sure to credit.)
A custom I’ve had on the back burner for probably over a year now. I’ve been super busy with school and commissions, but I wanted to finish a personal project for the first time in a long time. Of course, I’m still working hard on commissions! Finishing Sweet Tooth was something I did during breaks. Yep, I take a break from working on furbies by working on a different furby.
Hi! Love your blog. I just got my first furby and i have a few tech mod ideas i want to try out, but i am woefully ignorant about the inner workings of a furby. Do you have any resources or tips for someone trying to teach themselves? Ill be working with a 1998 furb btw. Thank you!
Thank you! You’ll want to have a pretty solid understanding of basic electronics before trying to mod your furb- there are plenty of resources available online. If you’re still in school, you might also consider taking some programming classes or joining a robotics club!
For understanding Furby’s electronics specifically, I highly recommend this unofficial Furby schematic, written by Chris Brown in 1999 (it looks like the original website has shut down, so I’ve re-hosted it on my Google Drive). I have noticed a few errors, but those shouldn’t matter too much when it comes to modding! I love this schematic so much that I actually have a copy of it printed out and taped together for quick and easy access. I have seriously considered getting it professionally printed, I use it so much!
Here’s some more resources I used when learning how furbs work (I’ve left these links visible in case any of these pages become inaccessible. If the site is no longer available, try looking it up on WayBack Machine!):
http://www.phobe.com/furby/index.html – the “Furby Autopsy site”, written in 1998. It has some decent basic info!
http://alumni.media.mit.edu/~kelly/Furby/anatomy.htm – It’s more of an art project, but this site has some great visuals for how the tongue assembly works and each of the cam gears!
Fantastic news, everyone! We now have the source code for 1998 Furbies! You can view the original .pdf on the uploader (Sean Riddle)’s website. In case that link ever breaks, you can also view the version on my Google Drive right here.
The code itself is written in 6502 Assembly, a programming language that I unfortunately don’t understand, but the code is very well documented and should be at least somewhat understandable to most!
Actually, no! Furbies use a smaller, cheaper type of 6502 called the Sunplus SPC81A (we don’t actually know for sure yet, but it’s very likely). It’s more like a calculator’s microprocessor than the big 6502 used in things like the Apple II, NES, and Atari. They do, however, use the same programming language!
Lately, I’ve been repairing this little furb for @softfubby, and it’s been quite the challenge! He had arrived completely non-working for no clear reason. After a lot of diagnostics, testing, and learning how to use an oscilloscope, I realized that his ceramic resonator was damaged internally– likely from rough shipping at some point. This part generates the clock signal, which “is used like a metronome to coordinate actions of digital circuits” (thanks, Wikipedia). Near-complete disassembly of this poor Furby and a quick soldering job with a donor part (from FT 002B, my very broken baby Furby) later and… He worked!
… kinda.
The swapped-in ceramic resonator (the two-pronged tan part in the middle there). New, compatible resonators aren’t hard to get a hold of, but shipping often takes a month or more. There’s nothing wrong with 002B’s resonator, so it’ll work just as well as a new one!
He would run for short periods, speaking with a charmingly glitchy voice and then locking up, seemingly at random. First, to eliminate the easiest solution, I swapped in a speaker from one of my other furbs (FT 010, who has an identical build). No change. Next theory: Maybe electrical noise from the motor wasn’t getting filtered out properly? That would make his audio driver try to interpret the junk data as audio and hang up the rest of his program while it processes. So, let’s check the filtering capacitor!
Uh-oh.
Some Furbies, mostly GE’s, have this little disaster-in-waiting on C7: Two surface-mount capacitors intentionally “tombstoned” so they fit in a spot designed for just one surface-mount part! Manufacturers usually spend large amounts of time and money preventing tombstoning, since surface-mount parts, especially these ceramic capacitors, are not designed to be installed like this. Doing so makes them especially vulnerable to mechanical shock, like the kind from… being… shipped… roughly. Ah.
Fortunately, this was also a pretty quick fix once I figured it out. The space between the daughter boards was too small for my soldering iron, and I had to use a through-hole part (surface-mount parts are installed either by machines or by humans with very specialized equipment), so I needed to find an alternate spot to solder the capacitor on. The conveniently-sized vias on the GE print of the audio daughter board should do nicely!
The new, blue capacitor. Attaching the part here is functionally the same as attaching it on C7, but it’s much easier to access and far more durable.
Wait for the solder to cool, pop a battery in, aaaand… he works! No more glitch voice, unfortunately, but also no more freezing. Clean his sensors, lubricate his gears, and he should be good to go for just as long as any other ‘98 furb, provided he gets shipped in proper packaging from now on!
Hi, I sent an ask a week or 2 ago about my furby that I couldn't get to work even after I lubed the gears, the one that the gears make a small attempt to start? Well since I've messed with it for a few hours after and later, it has started for a second and makes the yawn/half yawn a couple times, but nothing more, and sometimes just makes a weird glitch noise/long beep? Anyways, after reading more of ur blog I seen the 'limited edition bug' and I checked its factory and it's RL.(1)
I’m super upset because I got him shipped from another county. And for reference, hes the rooster, not a limited. I wanted to know where the language part of the furby is stored(not the speaker), as in, what part makes it speak english/italian/ect. Is it in the green board? I know it’s probably all together, as in, switching boards/chips probably wont fix the RL glitch, but it’s important to me and I’d like to try fixing it, even if its unlikely. Any help is appreciated, thank you.(2/end)
When push starting my furby, it runs for a split second before stopping(like the gears move by themself after pushing them) I tried putting the 3in1 silicone on it gears, but it hasn’t helped.(idk if it matters but the gear had black grime on it that I tried cleaning up with a qtip) I know theres been mention of contact cleaner? Is there a specific brand you recommend and do you think that might be the issue for mine?
Hi, sorry about the delay! I’ve been super busy with non-Furby stuff lately.
Thanks to the various cases that people have messaged me about, I can safely say that a Furby does not have to be a special edition to have the RL bug. Since we don’t know the cause of the RL bug, it’s impossible to know if swapping either of the daughter boards will carry it over. Additionally, the daughter boards are pretty difficult to de- and re-solder and pretty easy to mess up, so I don’t recommend it. I have an older post here that should answer some of your audio board questions!
Fortunately, I don’t think your Furby has the RL bug, since he’s producing glitch noises instead of just freezing. I think it’s much more likely that your furb is having the same capacitor issue as the one in this post, especially considering he was shipped a long way. If he has the same two tombstoned capacitors, he almost certainly needs the same fix!
If your Furby is still having trouble getting started on his own, you can clean his motor with a little contact cleaner. I use CRC brand “QD Contact Cleaner”, which I buy from Lowe’s. If you can’t get this brand, make sure you do some research and make sure you get some that’s safe to use around plastics! If you don’t, it will destroy your Furby.
With no batteries in your Furby, give the area I marked in the photo a quick spray (I use the little straw attachment), and spin the gears as though you were push-starting for about a minute. Then let the contact cleaner fully evaporate (usually around 15-30 minutes, give the gears another few spins every so-often), put batteries in, and see if your furb can start on his own!
Please make sure you read all the warnings on the can of contact cleaner, too! This stuff is pretty nasty, so you should consider wearing a respirator and/or spraying outside. If you think you might get some on your hands, wear gloves as well!
If your 98 furby won’t work even with push starting read this!
I bought a broken furby in real bad shape and decided to try to fix it. Cleaned the battery compartment, hit reset, hit the back, checked all connections and nothing worked. I nearly lost hope and couldn’t find any idea online. But then I realized that that orange area must be where the batterys connect to the rest of the furby and nothing was there to connect it, the two metal peices were missing. To test if that was the issue I took pieces of metal and played around with them to get them to fit in the area highlighted in blue, and with some fiddling it WORKED. FURB TURNED ON! Im planing a permanate solution where I’ll take a piece of metal and soder it to connect the metal bits left and be where the blue line is in the pic.
If you want anything deleted, added, or fixed let me know and I’ll be more than willing to do so! If you use any of the tumblr tutorials, or find them helpful, please consider reblogging them from the source! Good luck with your furbs :))