GLAD CYGAN

ALL About Subcultures! You'll find here! YEA!!!

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Maximiano Lopes De Oliveira (Nuno) Intern. Press Show 19 students from Fashion Design and Fashion Textiles.

Week after Internal fashion show I received message from Nuno with ask If I would like to intern for him during few following weeks. I said yes. I liked his collection since beginning. 

The Metamorphosis of Narcissus Salvador Dali 

Vanity by John William Waterhouse 1908

His collection is inspired by VANITY(narcissistic)  the excessive belief in one's own abilities or attractiveness to others, adornment of men body and blond (golden) hair. In his collection I found Nuno’s personality. I think this is one of few strongest point of his collection. Below I’m going to describe my adventure and collab with Nuno. 

Since beginning I knew we will collaborate really well.  Nuno was really prepared and considered about own collection. 

From first day I started to do the garments and prepare the rest of patterns. All the fabrics have different shades of gold. 

In next few days I was keep drawing patterns. I did golden trousers and golden jumper for him. 

Nuno showed me other way to sew the collar. Before I knew quite complicated way, after Internship I know how to do the collar in 10 minutes in 3 simple steps. 

Another day Gulsum- one of our technician offered us to teach me how to do the lining. She explained me everything step by step. I did two linings to Nuno’s garments. I was really happy when I saw lining inside the garment. It showed I know how to do it. 

Other days I was preparing small details like loop for the coat’s belt, eyelets etc. 

Nuno showed me amazing places in London where I can buy all details and  finish my garments in the professional way. 

I really enjoyed the time with him and I was doing my best to help him finish collection on time. 

One of the most exciting and stressful (just after my first lining in my life) was prepared duffle bag in few hours before hand-in day before fashion show. 

Nuno and me were really happy about final effect of golden bag with eyelets. 

As a last thing to do before fashion show what we prepared were baseball caps. I’ve learned how to do proper cap step by step.

On the day of fashion show I was again dresser at the backstage. Again it was exciting and unforgettable experience but less stressful because I knew it what I should expect.

Nuno’s Collection Backstage

Overall I think Internal Internship time with 3rd year students was incredible interesting adventure and I did big step ahead with my skills and confidence in fashion.

GLAD CYGAN. 2nd year student of Fashion Design.  

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Erin Neri Intern

Last 7 weeks I’ve got opportunity to intern for 3rd year student to help them with final collection for fashion show. I treated it as a priceless experience, adventure and interesting way to improve my skills. 

My first designer was Erin Neri.  Her collection was inspired by YAKUZA- Japanese Mafia. She focused on traditional kimonos and tattoos. 

 One of the most iconic images of the yakuza is their intricate, full-body tattoo art. These use a traditional method of manually inserting ink under the skin, known as irezumi. They are seen as a mark of a person’s bravery due to the pain the method inflicts. In recent years, the number of non-yakuza getting this style of tattoo has increased significantly. Popular designs include dragons, mountains, and women.Despite this widening trend of tattoos among non-yakuza, they still carry a significant stigma in Japanese society. The mayor of Osaka instituted a banon government workers with tattoos, telling them to either have their ink removed, or leave and find a job in the private sector.

At the beginning I was stitching simple things, finishing the garments. I was hemming the shirts and coat. 

I did preparation for prints on Erin’s garments. I’ve got opportunity to get access to Printmaking Studio but on of Technician literally kicked me out. 

Another days were about traveling across the London to get necessary things. 

Erin sent me to central London to get hangers and clothes covers. Before that I went to Shepherd’s Bush. I discovered A-1 one shop. I’ve never been there before. I found out a lot of interesting fabrics and details in bargain price. 

When I arrived to Soho I went to Clothes shop to get some coated cotton, frozen plastic for Erin’s labels. 

Next day she  had hand-in of her line-up of final collection. She was behind, so I offered her help with line-up. 

15.04.2015 

During last night I was preparing and improving line- up for Erin. It was interesting experience. I’ve got closer look to all the details of her collection. After that few hours later I handed in her line-up.  Rest of the day unfortunately I had to spend at work. 

Other days I was keep sewing and sewing...

Next day was all about prints and patterns. I prepared for her and taped prints to top stitch them. After that I start to top stitching them.

After that I was drawing  pattern for coat and linings. 

Couple of girls from third year show me how to work with coated cotton and bond-web. It was something new for me. 

It took ages... but the final effect was satisfactory. It was a looong day... 

On Friday after my seminars I joined my new 3rd year team. 

The day was quite intensive. I did some work for Erin but she didn’t need that much help this day... She told me to help others... so I helped them.

One of the wall’s picture in 3rd year students studio. 

I was ironing, preparing and cut out the patterns, ‘fighting’ with pleats for one of the girls in her design of trousers. ( I forgot her name). They showed me how to cut the patterns in the right way to avoid mistakes etc. and how to nicely finish the garments. From time to time I was assisting as a model for others. 

20.04. 2015 3 days to INTERNAL FASHION SHOW 

I’m getting excited. Last few days were ‘mental’ how Paul (our Head of Fashion Design Degree) says. We were doing everything what necessary to finish collection. I was finishing the prints and stitch them into the garments. We were preparing accessories and details, (bands, belts, metal buckles etc). 

I was cleaning the garments, edges after coated cotton and many more. 

I designed and did clutch bag for Erin. 

Time flown so fast. The most important day for 3rd years students was just few hours away...

23.04.2015 

On the day of fashion show I was dressing the models at the backstage. It was my first time. I was really stressed and excited. Everything looked nice before fashion show during the fittings and awaiting for start. We the fashion show started all the people got ready and stressed. Everything was amazing and went smooth. Last few weeks was priceless, that’s everything what I can say.

 One of the garments which I was working on. Erin Neri.

Picture from Middlesex University page on facebook. 

Some pictures at backstage:

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Inspired by... Jeremy Scott.

Jeremy Scott was born in 1974 in Kansas City, Missouri. He attended the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, New York, for fashion design. He started his career in the late 1990s showing in Paris Fashion Week. Vogue called his spring 2000 ready-to-wear show "a witty reply to all his detractors, who had accused him in the past of producing outlandish clothing that no one would wear."

The clothes were signature styles we've come to expect from Scott: cone bras, too-short cocktail dresses, oversized printed sweaters, men's suits without shirts... no surprises in that area. The prints and graphics Scott referenced this season freshened things up, though. Giant angry faces, faux bois, leopard, and checkerboard prints were everywhere, from bikinis to the thigh-high boots models wore. And the faux fur! Lindsay Wixson closed the show in a full body, neon green furry suit, complete with hood and tail. It was so a-fashionable that it might actually be fashionable.

Grungy SoCal punk 'n' skate is Scott's primal scene. "I just really wanted to have that potpourri of all those things," he said after the show. "It's very much a teenage boy's messy, puke-y fantasy." It's his fantasy, even if, as one of his seasonal message tees ruefully noted, Adults Suck, Then You Are One.

Every Scott show will have its short skirts, skintight tops, bolts of sheer. That's a given. This one also had cohesion, and not just because little bulging-eye-print bucket bags matched little bulging-eye-print dresses. Scott's may have been a messy fantasy but it was a controlled chaos. Some credit may be due to an intriguing new collaborator: the legendary stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, stepping in on this show for the first time. The union of L.A.'s outsider king and Paris' industry queen suggested that punk really may have the ear of power this season. It was "heaven" to work with her, Scott said. "She gets me. She understands the mix of the street, the high and the low—which has always been my style, as well as hers."

He has  been described as, “An example of lowbrow culture transformed into high art” due to his conceptual pieces that take elements of streetwear, graphic cartoon prints and abstract shapes, which then change every season to embrace the impulse of what he is feeling at that precise point.

Karl Lagerfeld said that Scott was the only designer who could ever succeed him at Chanel. This would be a dream team; from the ghetto- tastic streets of Adidas to the sophisticated realms of Chanel. The golden boy would have certainly arrived, and in the words of one other famous southerner who adored sequins on her shoes too… “Toto, I have a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.”

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‘PUNK SO DIY’ Punk Magazine Uni ‘ZINE‘ project GLAD CYGAN 

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‘PUNK SO DIY’ Punk Magazine 

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‘PUNK SO DIY’ Punk Magazine 

#subculture  #anarchy #uk ##magazine #hobby #inspiration #nofuture #guide #punknews #gigs #concerts #punkrock #music #art  #fashion #sexpistols #theclash #1980 #diy #studs #leather #fetish #sex #designer #fashiondesigner #gladcygan #punk #london

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‘PUNK SO DIY’ Punk Magazine

#subculture  #anarchy #uk ##magazine #hobby #inspiration #nofuture #guide #punknews #gigs #concerts #punkrock #music #art  #fashion #sexpistols #theclash #1980 #diy #studs #leather #fetish #sex #designer #fashiondesigner #gladcygan #punk #london

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‘PUNK SO DIY’ SUBCULTURE Magazine

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Inspired by... John Galliano

John Galliano Union jack punk flag, 

John Charles Galliano, born 1960 is a Gibraltar-born Italian-British fashion designer who was the head designer of French fashion companies Givenchy (July 1995 to October 1996), Christian Dior (October 1996 to March 2011), and his own label John Galliano (1988 to 2011). At present, Galliano is set to take over the creative direction of Paris-based fashion house Maison Martin Margiela. John Galliano is widely considered one of the most innovative and influential fashion designers of the early twenty-first century. Known for a relentless stream of historical and ethnic appropriations, he mingled his references in often surprising juxtapositions to create extravagant yet intricately engineered and meticulously tailored clothes. His continual interest in presenting fashion shows as highly theatricalized spectacles, with models as characters in a drama and clothes at times verging on costumes, won him applause as well as criticism. 

Dior  Haute Couture by John Galliano A/W 2006/2007 

Ten years ago, John Galliano, the media's favorite "punk" designer, was ushered into the imposing dove-gray-and-gilt Grand Salon at the House of Dior on the Avenue Montaigne in Paris, where wave after wave of employees — 800 in all — filed in to meet him for the first time. "I can remember only two things from that day," says Galliano, crow-black eyes widening. "First, that I desperately wanted to remember everybody's name, and second, that I kept thinking, What have I done?"

John Galliano’s Union Jack Jacket from 2001 Pirates Collection.  A technical point: Galliano was never strictly a punk, though he admits to "probably wearing pajamas and a garbage collector's jacket" when he first arrived in Paris in 1990. His friend and collaborator Sam McKnight, a hairdresser who knew him in the early clubbing days in London, describes him as "more swashbuckling. He's too polite to be a punk. I think there's a bit of Tyrone Power in him." Nick Knight says about  John Galliano: "is that he's not confrontational. He doesn't set out to be iconoclastic or rebellious. He just happens to see the world in a different way from everyone else."

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Inspired by... Vivienne Westwood and McLaren

Sex Pistols T-shirt, designed by Vivienne Westwood and Jamie Reid, customised by Johnny Rotten, late 1970s. Museum no. S.794-1990

Sex Pistols t-shirt from our Library Collection Middlesex Univesity London. 

Dame Vivienne Westwood, (born Vivienne Isabel Swire on 8 April 1941) is an English fashion designer and businesswoman, largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream.

About new shop 'Sex' in 1975

Westwood and McLaren's focus soon shifted to another fashion minority. McLaren renamed the shop Sex and he scrawled above the door 'Craft must have clothes but Truth loves to go naked'. The interior was sprayed with pornographic graffiti, hung with rubber curtains and stocked with sex and fetish wear. Marco Pirroni, of the group Adam and the Ants, recalled: 'The country was a morass of beige and cream Bri-Nylon and their shop was an oasis. It took great liberalism and bravery to wear rubber in the street. If you shopped there, you didn't go anywhere else.' Westwood saw a kind of loveliness in this forbidden clothing: 'All the clothes I wore people would regard as shocking, I wore them because I just thought that I looked like a princess from another planet.' Sex was intimidating and it attracted an extraordinary clientele, with voyeurs and prostitutes mixing with proto-Punk King's Road shoppers. Jordan, the shop assistant, was even more extraordinary. She wore rubber clothes, a beehive hairstyle and theatrical make-up. On her daily commute from Sussex, British Rail put Jordan in a first-class compartment for her own protection.

Work place, and how they created the clothes. The floor of his studio was covered with bags of ragged clothing – ripped and bleached T-shirts, bondage trousers, holed jumpers and tartan suits. They had cost him £80,000, but Hirst was determined to assemble a stunning collection of originals created by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren. Together, McLaren and Westwood ran a series of shops throughout the Seventies at 430 King’s Road in Chelsea, London, where they sold clothes under various labels, including Sex and Seditionaries. They cut, ripped, stitched and sewed their creations throughout the night on their kitchen table before selling them in the shop by day. ‘We decided we needed mannequins to model our clothes and so we invented the Sex Pistols,’ said McLaren. ‘Fashion was much more important than music. Punk was the sound of our fashion.’ Their designs are now iconic treasures – and so rare that prices have gone through the roof. Jonathan Ross, Kate Moss and Bobby Gillespie are all collectors. No wonder Hirst had paid so much to buy his own slice of punk history.

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Saatchi Gallery Research of Irina Nakhova works.

Irina Nakhova FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS  1994

Coats, dummies, approx. 160 cm height each, oil and acrylics, electronics; Engineering: Per Biorn Entering the dark room, one encounters sculptural images of Greek statues, painted on ten overcoats displayed on tailor’s dummies. Touching a particular coat will activate an individual audio-message, «greeting» the viewer with comments addressing racism, homophobia and gender inequity, such as: «Take your dirty fucking white hands off me. I hate fucking white people, spreading your misery all over the goddamn world and telling us it’s good for us». The «low» greetings contrast with the beautifully rendered «high» Greek images, forcing the viewer into a difficult and uncomfortable situation. The paintings, on Salvation Army coats, are inspired by classical sculptures such as «Diadumenus», a Roman copy from Delos, after the original by Polyclitus, or a rear view of the «Aphrodite of Knidos» by Praxiteles. I am interested in art history. For me it is the only true history. Combining artifacts from our everyday life with art history images, I question what is true. These coats are modern sculptures from our day. I combine them with Greek classical images which for us are worn out. Worn-out coats have real personal history, so they are more real.                                                                                                                                                                                                               Irina Nakhova, 1995

Irina Nakhova (b. 1955) graduated from the Moscow Institute of Graphic Arts in 1978. She is an installation artist and an academically trained painter who “parlays art historical references into interactive environments that are humorous and poignant” (Marina Mangubi). She has had a long and distinguished career with numerous solo exhibitions in New York, Moscow, Austria, Estonia, Chicago, and London. She is a member of unofficial artists’ group, now known as the Moscow Conceptual School. She is also a member of the Union of Russian Artists since 1986. Since 1992 Irina lives and works between Russia and the US. Nakhova taught contemporary art at Wayne State University in Detroit (MI), Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh (PA), and International Summer Academy of Fine Arts in Salzburg, Austria. Her artwork is in museums and private collections in France, Germany, Great Britain, Italy, Russia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United States.

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Research from Victoria and Albert Museum in London   about Solidarity.

Solidarity  Independent Self-governing Trade Union ‘Solidarity’ – Niezależny Samorządny Związek Zawodowy ‘Solidarność’ is a Polish Trade Union that was founded on 17 September 1980 at the Gdansk Shipyard under the leadership of Lech Walesa.  It was the first trade union in a Warsaw Pact country that was not controlled by the Communist Party. Its membership reached 9.5 million members before its September 1981 Congress, which constituted one third of the total working-age population of Poland.

In the 1980s, Solidarity was a broad anti-bureaucratic social movement, using the methods of civil resistance to advance the causes of workers' rights and social change. The government attempted to destroy the union by imposing martial law in Poland, which lasted from December 1981 to July 1983 and was followed by several years of political repression, but in the end it was forced to negotiate with Solidarity. In the union's clandestine years, the United States provided significant financial support, estimated to be as much as 50 million US dollars.

The survival of Solidarity was an unprecedented event not only in Poland, a satellite state of the USSR ruled (in practice) by a one-party Communist regime, but the whole of the Eastern bloc.. It meant a break in the hard-line stance of the communist Polish United Workers Party, which had bloodily ended a 1970 protest with machine gun fire (killing dozens and injuring over 1,000), and the broader Soviet communist regime in the Eastern Bloc, which had quelled both the 1956 Hungarian Uprising and the 1968 Prague Spring with Soviet-led invasions.

Solidarity's influence led to the intensification and spread of anti-communist ideals and movements throughout the countries of the Eastern Bloc, weakening their communist governments. As a result of the Round Table Agreement between the Polish government and the Solidarity-led opposition, elections were held in Poland on 4 June 1989, in which the opposition were allowed to field candidates against the Communist Party - the first free elections in any Soviet bloc country. A new upper chamber (the Senate) was created in the Polish parliament and all of its 100 seats were contestable in the election, as well as one third of the seats in the more important lower chamber (the Sejm). Solidarity won 99 of the 100 Senate seats and all 161 contestable seats in the Sejm - a victory that also triggered a chain reaction across the Soviet Union’s satellite states, leading to almost entirely peaceful anti-communist revolutions in Central and Eastern Europe known as the Revolution of 1989 (Jesień Ludów or Wiosna Obywatelów), which ended in the overthrow of each Moscow-imposed regime, and ultimately to the dissolution of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s.

Solidarity also supported the struggles of trade unions in capitalist countries. During the UK miner's strike of 1984-85, the President of Upper Silesia Solidarity David Jastrzębski voiced his support of the striking miners - "Neither the British government’s mounted police charges nor its truncheon blows, any more than the Polish junta’s tanks or rifle fire, can break our common will to struggle for a better future for the working class''.This was despite the fact that Arthur Scargill, president of the British National Union of Mine workers had been highly critical of Solidarity and publicly supported the Polish government's attempts to crush the union after the imposition of martial law in 1981.

In late 2008, several democratic opposition groups in the Russian Federation formed the Solidarity movement.

Solidarity also inspired and influenced the protests of the Arab Spring as well as the Occupy movement. Former leader Lech Walesa visited protesters in Tunisia in 2011.

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Vivienne Westwood as a Punk Queen

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Punk

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