Tulum + Oaxaca
Two very opposite trips in one vacation, we left Austin, TX for Mexico the Saturday after Thanksgiving. We spent four relaxing nights next to the ocean, followed by eight nights in the beautiful culture of Oaxaca City. If you're traveling to either of these places, you might find some helpful tips we learned from this trip below.
TULUM
Between the sparkling Caribbean sea and the evergrowing tropical jungle, Tulum claims to be an eco friendly focused destination sans commercial anything. Clear your mind in a hammock, indulge in its wonderful culinary experience, swim in a cave or join the large yoga community. Tulum has a variety of things to offer. Our reason for visiting was Lisa's 30th birthday.
HOW WE GOT THERE / GETTING AROUND
ADO BUS We flew into Cancun and took the ADO Bus to Tulum. Purchase tickets at their stand just outside the airport and the buses arrive every 30 minutes. It's about a 2 hour bus trip, making two stops along the way. ADO charter buses are new/clean, air conditioned and cost about $8USD/person one way compared to taxis/shuttles costing $50-250USD. Passengers are dropped off at the ADO station in the town of Tulum. Finally, take a 10-15 minute taxi ride to hotel.
Taxis are all over Tulum. Ask how much before you get into the car, as some will try to rip you off. Cuánto cuesta means how much in spanish. We said this often. Because of taxis and bike rentals, we found renting a car was not necessary.
FOOD
HARTWOOD was all the hype in Tulum. If you want to dine here, you need to make a reservation in advance on their website which we did and yes it was worth it, but it wasn't the best food we had there.
BEJUCO is the best everything we had in Tulum. You can eat in a somehow very comfortable candlelit wooden teepee literally on top of the ocean under the stars. If the ambiance isn't magical enough, the food is in-cred-i-ble. Pretty sure every employee came to greet us, even the chefs from all over the world. It's evident they truly care about every dish. Favorites: ginger couscous, pasta, lemon tart. We luckily found this place because it was across the beach cove from our hotel. They were doing a soft open while finishing renovations.
EL GOURMET is in the town. Delicious, very fresh sandwiches and juices. Great lunch spot while biking or before catching the ADO bus.
KIBOK COFFEE is also in the town, just down the block from El Gourmet. Great coffee, good people watching spot.
Other restaurants to check out: Gitano, Posada Margherita, Gitano, The Real Coconut, Raw Love, Kitchen Table.
HOTEL
Maria Del Mar is where we stayed and would highly recommend it for anyone looking for a quiet, private, carefully designed hotel. Our room was massive with a balcony and private rooftop area viewing both the ocean and jungle. Yoga on the beach balcony is a must as well as their spa services. Breakfast was included, but you have to ask for it.
Casa Malca Like Hartwood, Casa Malca is pretty hyped and had mixed reviews so we checked it out mainly because it used to be Pablo Escobar's hideout mansion. It's at the most southern part of Tulum's hotels on the ocean and there's just a guard at the gate, no sign. Wedding dresses drape the entrance framing vintage furniture floating by chains. Walk up the spiral staircase to the right for rooftop views of the ocean and jungle, or go straight to the hammocks in the sand. Art is everywhere in this place. Good lunch here: we got fish tacos, agave lager and passionfruit mojitos.
Be Tulum After checking out Casa Malca, we walked north and started hotel hopping. This hotel was one that really stood out from the rest.
Azulik is a magical place, especially for sunset cocktails. Their bar area includes private 'nests' that overlook the jungle. Ladies, do not wear heels here.
ADVENTURE
RUINS OF TULUM is a National Park at the north side of Tulum. We rented bikes from our hotel and arrived when they opened at 8AM to avoid crowds. Entrance is $2USD/person. You can take a tour, but we explored the grounds on our own and quickly found the beach. Take the steep stairs down to the sand and swim through the rocks in the most beautiful clear water.
GRAN CENOTE There are several cenotes to check out in the area. Entrance fee is $5USD/person plus rental fee for goggles. Take your own goggles if you're not into that - but seeing what's under the water is the experience.
OAXACA
We arrived before midnight after a layover in Mexico City. Taxiing to our hotel at night, we picked up on some pre-millennial Bushwick vibes. Close to the center of Oaxaca, we checked in at Hotel Casa de la Tia Tere for 7 nights.
Waking up the next morning, we went downstairs where our hotel served us a personal breakfast of eggs with tomato and onion, fresh fruit, and bread. We walked out the door with little plans but to explore. Halfway down the block, Lisa stopped about a dozen times filling up her roll of film. Bright worn colors, beat up makeshift cars, people huddling over food carts. The first couple of days looked like this.
We took taxis out of town over the week to places like art, hierve el agua, textile town, mezcal. For our last two nights, we checked ourselves in at the most luxurious historical Quinta Real.
FOOD
ADVENTURE