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Flying high above our local drive-in. Classic cars and classic Americana. It's been a great weekend thus far. What have you all been up to this weekend? #RCRoadShow #BladeHelis

#bladehelis #rcroadshow

Aerial shot of some of the cars being judged for the #BloomingtonGold #Chevrolet #Corvette show. They're parked next to the Illini Football Stadium. This was shot from a #BladeHelis 350 2 AP and CGO-1 camera. #RCRoadShow

#corvette #chevrolet #bloomingtongold #bladehelis #rcroadshow

Tough to choose a favorite 'Vette. We'll take the red one, and the red one, oh and the red one too! #RCRoadShow #Chevrolet #Corvette #BloomingtonGold

#corvette #chevrolet #bloomingtongold #rcroadshow

Tons of people are coming in and out of the #BloomingtonGold #Corvette show. #RCRoadShow

#corvette #bloomingtongold #rcroadshow

We're at #BloomingtonGold and have the new 2014 #Chevrolet #Corvette from Vaterra on display. They definitely have been a hit!

#corvette #chevrolet #bloomingtongold

We're trying to setup for the #BloomingtonGold Corvette show and mother nature is not cooperating. Derek and Mark are not amused. #RCRoadShow

#bloomingtongold #rcroadshow

How-To: Understanding Roll Center Adjustments on the TLR 22 Buggy and TLR22T Truck

The Team Losi Racing™ 22™ Buggy and 22T™ Stadium Truck both offer exceptional out-of-the-box performance and tuning options. One tuning option that can be both extremely useful and extremely confusing surrounds changing what’s call the roll center. Roll center refers to both the distance between your lower suspension mount and the upper ball stud mount and the distance between the lower suspension mount and the ground. There are two common references to the roll center, either high or low. In the USA, most racers have found the low roll center to be the way to go with both the 22 buggy and 22T truck, but in Europe, high roll centers tend to be more preferred. Todd Hodge was one of the key people that helped make the 22 and 22T a reality. He spent some time with us to discuss what roll center is, how it works and why it’s important. He also talked with us about the importance of anti-squat and pro-squat, and how all of these adjustments change the handling characteristics of your racecar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=xxGr736xDY4

How-To: Rebuild the Shocks on your 22™, 22T™ and 22™SCT

Team Losi Racing™ incorporated a number of innovative changes into the original 22™ buggy that were also carried over to the 22T™ stadium truck. From the dual motor placement options, metric hardware, aluminum chassis and more, these are two cutting-edge vehicles. One of the biggest improvements, both figuratively and literally, was the new big bore shock design that was easier to bleed and provided a more plush suspension than 1/10-scale vehicles were used to. When the 22 was released it came with a bladder in the top of the shock. Racers soon modified this, modifying the bladder to simply create a seal similar to an O-ring, therein creating an emulsion shock. This provided a smoother shock with less rebound. With the release of the 22 RTR and 22T RTR from Losi, new molded shock caps were introduced that incorporated an O-ring seal between the cap and body but also included a bleeder screw to make it easier to bleed the shocks. Once racers learned about this option, many swapped out the stock aluminum caps with these bleeder caps, simply because of how much easier it was to get consistent shock performance on their 22 and 22T race vehicles.

Team Losi Racing has taken note of how many drivers, including many of their own team drivers, have been installing these molded bleeder caps on their race vehicles. Team Losi Racing has evolved the molded bleeder caps into super-dialed aluminum units. Unlike their molded counterparts these aluminum shock caps won’t stretch, stress or fatigue. Plus, the aluminum caps also feature the TLR® logo prominently, unlike the molded caps, maintaining that high-end look of the stock shock caps. These units work so well that Team Losi Racing has even included these as standard components on the 22SCT.

Installing these shock caps literally changes the type of damper it is, from bladder to an emulsion design. As such the assembly and bleeding process are slightly different from the stock 22 and 22T shocks. While building a Team Losi Racing 22SCT for review, we took some time to show you how to build and bleed these caps and the emulsion shocks. We think you’ll agree that, if anything, this makes it easier for you to build and bleed your shocks. We also provide some tips on how to ensure your shocks are the same length and filled with equal levels of oil too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=7UafHGYLJH8

How To Rebuild Your Shocks

The ECX® Revenge Type e™ and Revenge Type N™ buggy have both been impressive since their release. They are both fast, fun and durable buggies that provide a great way to take your first steps into the world of 1/8-scale electric or nitro buggies, but from time-to-time you may need to perform some basic maintenance on them to ensure top performance. One such area that you may find yourself servicing would be the shocks. The shocks on the Revenge Type e and Type N are identical aluminum-bodied, oil-filled designs. As such, the steps for replacing the oil and rebuilding the shocks on either model are identical. For our example here, we used a Revenge Type e, but don’t worry if you own a Revenge Type N, as you can follow along with the exact same steps. From start-to-finish the rebuild process should take you less than 30-minutes, as long as you have the proper tools and equipment. The Dynamite® Metric Startup Tool Set really makes working on your car easier and is the set referenced in the video. In addition, Magnum Force™ motor cleaner works well for cleaning your shocks out. There was also a new Dynamite shock oil that we used for the first time here and were quite impressed with it. When we were finished with our rebuild, we had shocks that felt silky smooth and were ready to once again hit the ground and help absorb just about anything we could throw at them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=jhzl1O5RS-c

How To Build the 22, 22T, or 22SCT Ball Differential

When it comes to the performance and handling of your 22™ buggy, 22T™ stadium truck or 22™SCT, one area some may overlook is the condition of their differential. Having a smooth and precise diff can possibly make-or-break how your car or truck takes a corner. A smooth differential will allow you to take a corner precisely without losing traction or corner-speed, while a gritty or imprecise diff can cause all sorts of handling woes. In the end, your differential has a large impact on the handling of your vehicle than you probably give it credit for.

Since the release of the original Team Losi Racing™ 22 buggy, we’ve picked up a number of techniques to ensure that we get smooth and consistent differential action time after time. This comprehensive video will share our knowledge with you, along with giving you the inside line on some cool option parts you can use when building, rebuilding or servicing your diff to ensure that it will last as long as possible. What is really cool is that you can use the steps we outline here if you decide to upgrade from a gear differential, such as what is found in the Losi® 22 RTR buggy, 22T RTR stadium truck or the Team Losi Racing 22SCT RTC™. In the end we’re sure that, if you follow these steps, you’ll wind up with a super-smooth differential that could give you the extra edge you need on-track.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=oh8_YrZ-gbI

How-To: First Charge Tips

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8vkDZ8qdDs

Unlike many other RTR-included low-power slow chargers that can take several hours to charge a provided battery, the Dynamite peak voltage detection charger is designed to safely charge your included Dynamite Speedpack battery in around one hour. This means you can spend less time waiting, and more time having fun.With this more powerful RTR charger you need to take some additional care and preparation when first charging your new Ni-MH battery, in order to help condition the battery for maximum capacity and run time performance.

Initial Charge

Your Dynamite peak voltage detection charger includes safety circuitry and programming allowing the charger to stop charging after 15 minutes, if it senses any issues that have come up in charging. The high electrical resistance commonly found in new, unconditioned, Ni-MH batteries can cause this safety circuit to activate turning the charger off before a full charging cycle is complete. This is commonly known as a "false peak" in your battery charge. Should this occur during your first charge cycle, it does not necessarily indicate a failure of either your charger or battery. Instead it shows that the charger is functioning properly and that the battery is not yet fully conditioned. To complete your first full charging cycle in the event of a false peak, restart the charger by pressing the Start button again. Repeat this process until the charge cycle continues to charge past 15 minutes. It may take as many as 2 to 4 restarts to complete your first one or two full charge cycles. Once your charger completes a charge cycle longer than 15 minutes your battery will be fully charged. A typical first full-charge cycle should run for 45 to 90 minutes, depending on the self-discharge condition of the battery since it was shipped from the factory. Once your battery is properly conditioned through a few full charge and discharge cycles, you will see normal operation of the charger by a single press of the start button, followed by a 60 to 90 minute charge cycle.As always, should you have any questions about or issues with your new Horizon Hobby product please contact Horizon Hobby product support for assistance at the link below:

#8realm #22empire We had a lot of fun and great results at the Ford County Shootout yesterday! 2 TQs, 2 wins and 2 second place finishes!

#22empire #8realm

How To Repair Your ParkZone Trojan or Corsair

by Jim Booker

Flying ParkZone's T-28 Trojan and F4U Corsair is great fun. And even if you happen to crash (it happens sometimes to the best of us), there’s no reason to let it put a damper on your fun. These ParkZone planes are very easy to repair. Their construction is very similar, so repair procedures are basically the same for both.

There are two types of repairs for these models. You can either repair the broken part, or replace a part with a new one. If your model has been damaged, take a quick look at it, and decide which type you think is best.

Repair the Broken Part

Most broken parts and definitely all of the foam parts, such as the wing, tail, and fuselage, can be repaired. Most of the foam components can be glued together with regular CA or RC 56 Canopy glue. The horizontal tail does require a foam-safe CA adhesive or RC 56 Canopy glue.

The important element is to make sure the repaired part is straight without warps or twists. This will ensure the model flies just as well as when it was new.

If the plastic cowling is damaged in a hard landing, you can repair it using CA adhesives if the damage is not severe.

Replace the Broken Part

The second method of repair is to simply replace the broken parts. For example, a damaged motor mount must be replaced, so that it maintains the structural integrity necessary to fly the model. Since all of the parts are available separately for the Corsair and the Trojan, you'll find that replacement is quick and easy, giving you an excellent result.

When you replace broken parts with new ones, you should also purchase the decal sheet for your model. Replacement parts don’t include decal insignia markings, so you should replace them. The receiver, servos, motor, and speed control must also be removed from a broken wing or fuselage and remounted in the replacement part.

Preflight Check

After you've completed the repair or replacement, check your model to make sure all the components are in proper alignment and the radio is working properly.

Ready to Fly

As you do your repairs, you'll discover that the process is part of the fun of being a modeler. Future mishaps may require more repairs, but, as you'll find, it's easy and quick to get the model back to the field. Your model will look like new again and be ready to provide many more great flying experiences.

How-To: Repair Your E flite Blade mCX

There is nothing more fun per ounce than flying the E-flite® Blade® mCX heli. Especially when it comes to trying new tricks and risky maneuvers. The fun stops only when you finally break something. Now, you really do have to try pretty hard to break this little wonder although I have been able to do it. But don’t worry, it can be easily fixed. This tiny heli is a true hobby grade model and all the replacement parts are available to fix even the worst of disastrous events (such as when the dog grabs it out of the air).

Mark Padilla and I are going to help you get started. The only tool you need is the tiny screwdriver included in the box with your mCX. Replacing parts is fun and takes very little time so you can be ready to fly again before the battery is charged. In this video, we will show how to replace the upper rotor blades, the flybar, the upper rotor shaft and the 5-n-1 unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=6CwvGkj8m_8

How-To: E-flite Blade CX3 LED Light Kit Installation

That new CX3 is a very cool-looking helicopter with the scale MD 520N body and lots of interesting detail. But the real fun is flying this little hot rod. E-flite has an optional LED Navigation Light Set for the CX3 that adds to the scale realism and makes nighttime flying fun as well. Installing these lights is very easy, even though at first glance it might look a bit difficult.

Actually, there are two light sets. One is the standard set that is always on when connected to the receiver power. The other can be remotely turned on and off from the CX3 RTF transmitter or other 5-channel or more DSM2™ transmitter. Basically, the installation is the same for both. Our short video is going to show you how to do the installation. The only tools required will be the supplied screwdriver plus a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Watch our video then give your own CX3 a complete navigation light set from E-flite.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=2s9nxQaNdes

Supplies Needed:

•EFL Blade CX3 MD 520N RTF (EFLH2000)

•EFL Blade CX3 MD 520N BNF ((EFLH2080)

•LED Navigation Light Upgrade Set ((EFLH2009)

•LED Navigation Light Upgrade Set Remote On/Off (EFLH2009R)

How-To: First Time Blade 400 Pilots - Try our DX6i Setup

The combination of the E-flite® Blade® 400 helicopter and Spektrum™ DX6i introduced a new level of RTF performance with a fully ready to fly, 3D-capable model. Many pilots are having their first experience with a high performance RC helicopter, and the Blade 400 can be great fun. Mark Padilla, E-flite product developer, has developed some DX6i setup tips that will help the less experienced heli pilot be successful with the Blade 400. In our video, Mark is going to lead us through the DX6i programming setups that will fine-tune the performance of your Blade. Try this out—you will like it.

Watch our video then grab your DX6i, select a new model memory, copy the Blade 400 to a new model setup and make the changes Mark outlines. When you are finished, it will be necessary to bind the model to this new model memory. You can pause the video to allow yourself time to make the changes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=PBXxAnSZWuc

How-To Install the MD520N body on an E-flite Blade CX2

Wow, that new MD 520N body for the CX3 sure makes a good-looking heli, especially flying around in the living room! But the first question that comes to mind is, “Does it fit on my CX or CX2 helicopter?” The answer is, “It fits perfectly and with no modification of any parts.” You will need to purchase the complete body set for the MD 520N which includes the new landing gear and the new battery support tray components required for the installation. This body installation process takes about 30 minutes the first time you do it, so don’t feel like it is a big project—and it certainly is not difficult.

Watch our "How To" video and then order an MD 520N body for your own CX helicopter. The complete body set part number you need is listed on the left side of this page.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s27yhyjlxrE

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