HikeYourOwnHike

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Bothwell Lodge State Historic Site

May 30, 2016

On top of two caves, high above Highway 50 outside of Sedalia, sits Bothwell Lodge State Historic Site (https://mostateparks.com/park/bothwell-lodge-state-historic-site). Built over a 30 year period from 1890-1929 by Sedalia lawyer John Homer Bothwell, the site includes a 31-room, 12,000-square-foot lodge and two trails (an historic trail and a three mile hiking/biking trail).

We stopped at the lodge during our drive back to Kansas City - the last day of a Memorial Day weekend journey.

It was hot, the wasps were active, and we were anxious to get home so we decided not to wait for the next tour. We hope to make it back for the tour and a hike someday. The lodge still contains many of Bothwell’s original furnishings. In addition to a successful career as a lawyer, Bothwell served eight years in the Missouri legislature, ran an unsuccessful bid for governor in 1904, and was one of the primary reasons Sedalia is the permanent location for the Missouri State Fair.

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Rock Bridge Memorial State Park

Just minutes from Columbia, Rock Bridge Memorial State Park (https://mostateparks.com/park/rock-bridge-memorial-state-park) is home to caves, springs, trails, sinkholes and an underground stream.

One of my first dates with Lucy was a hike at Rock Bridge, so it was fun to return on May 29, 2016 with our Passport.

There are at least eight trails at the park for hiking, biking and horses. One of the most popular hikes is the Devil’s Icebox Trail. It takes you to the rock bridge and a double sinkhole entrance to the Devil’s Icebox and Connor’s Cave.

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Jewell Cemetery State Historic Site

Just off Providence Road in Columbia, behind an apartment complex and next to a Waffle House, you’ll find the Jewell Cemetery State Historic Site (https://mostateparks.com/park/jewell-cemetery-state-historic-site). The cemetery contains the grave of Charles Hardin, Missouri’s 22nd Governor and descendants of George Jewell, including William Jewell who died while establishing the college in Liberty, Missouri that still bears his name.

Lucy and I visited on May 29, 2016. It’s not clear whether I was attacked by one of the residents of the cemetery, or if I just tripped over a headstone while trying to take a photo, but I took a nasty fall that resulted in a messy, bloody slice on my leg. Still have a cool looking scar today.

Our visit to the cemetery was brief, but key to our Passport journey. The trip resulted in the purchase of a first aid kit that we carried to all the other state parks and we established a firm rule that I’m not allowed to take photos until I stop hiking and make myself aware of my surroundings. Lucy also appointed herself Safety Specialist for the remainder of our Expedition.

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Clark’s Hill/Norton State Historic Site

Clark’s Hill/Norton State Historic Site (https://mostateparks.com/park/clarks-hillnorton-state-historic-site) is just east of Jefferson City at the top of a hill between the Missouri and Osage Rivers.

A short, steep trail (.50 miles one way) allows you to walk in the footsteps of Captain William Clark. You will be greeted by the same sweeping views discovered by Captain Clark over 200 years ago.

Lucy and I made the trek on May 29, 2016, about the same time of year that the Lewis and Clark Expedition traveled through the area. Captain Clark hiked up the same hill on June 2, 1804.

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Missouri State Museum & Jefferson Landing State Historic Site

Located on the ground level of the State Capitol, the Missouri State Museum (https://mostateparks.com/park/missouri-state-museum) houses an impressive collection of the state’s natural and cultural history.

I spent eight years as a Missouri State Senator, so I had thousands of hours to explore the State Museum, Capitol and the wonderful sites and exhibits surrounding the Capitol. Lucy and I stopped by the Museum store on May 29, 2016 with our Passport. The Capitol was undergoing much needed renovations during our visit and renovations have continued since that time. It is a constantly changing treasure and worth visiting as often as you can.

I highly recommend the guided tours of the Capitol with the Museum staff. If you have time, make sure you visit the Whispering Gallery and a trip to the top of the Dome. The views from the top of the Dome are particularly wonderful at sunset and sunrise (see below).

I recommend traveling to the Capitol via the Amtrak Missouri River Runner (https://www.amtrak.com/missouri-river-runner-train). It is a three hour trip from KC to Jefferson City. The train leaves KC twice a day from Union Station with stops in Independence, Lee’s Summit, Warrensburg and Sedalia. The train unloads at Jefferson Landing, between the Capitol and the Governor’s Mansion.

Jefferson Landing State Historic Site (https://mostateparks.com/page/55184/jefferson-landing-state-historic-site) was a hub of commerce in the mid-1800s. Steamboats traveling between St. Louis and Kansas City docked in front of the Lohman Building. The nearby Union Hotel contains the Elizabeth Rozier Gallery, with rotating exhibits on Missouri history, art and culture.

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Lake of the Ozarks State Park

Lake of the Ozarks State Park (https://mostateparks.com/park/lake-ozarks-state-park) is located in Mid-MO about 45 minutes south of Jefferson City.

Established in the mid-1930s by the National Park Service and turned over to the state in 1946, the park is home to several log buildings, rustic bridges and stone ditch-dams built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. The park and its main road, Highway 134, are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

We visited the Grand Glaize arm of the lake late in the day on May 28, 2016. Unfortunately, we arrived too late to enjoy much more than a sunset.

If you think this park is just about the lake - think again. There are 12 hiking trails, a 1275 acre wilderness area, a four acre natural area featuring a swampy, spring-fed meadow and the Ozarks Caverns - home to four species of salamanders, five species of bats and 16 species of invertebrates. Rustic cabins and yurts are available as lodging options - many of which are dog friendly.

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Katy Trail State Park

The Katy Trail is a 240 mile long state park on the former corridor of the Missouri-Kansas-Texas (MKT or Katy) Raiload. The trail runs from Clinton to Machens and includes 26 trailheads and four fully restored railroad depots.

The majority of the trail closely follows the Missouri River. The longest rail to trail project in the country, the Katy Trail was added to the State Park system in 1987. Historic, natural and interpretive markers along the trail highlight the rich heritage of Missouri.

Designed specifically for walking and bicyclists, the majority of the trail is accessible to persons with disabilities. Horses are allowed from Clinton to the state fairgrounds in Sedalia and from Tebbetts to Portland.

We are frequent users of several segments along the trail, but Lucy and I were not planning to visit the Katy Trail the day we stopped at the restored railroad depot in Sedalia on May 28, 2016. That’s where we found the State Parks Centennial Passport and made the decision to attempt the challenge.

Our travels took us back to the Katy Trail several times in 2016 and 2017, including our semi-regular participation in the Boone Dawdle bike ride from Columbia to Rocheport in support of the True/False Film Festival (https://truefalse.org/dawdle), and a beautiful evening hike along the trail in St. Charles.

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Missouri State Parks Centennial

April 9, 2017 was the 100th birthday the the Missouri State Park system. To celebrate the centennial, the Missouri Department of Natural Resources revived and reinvented their popular passport program (https://mostateparks.com/passport), encouraging curious travelers to visit each state park and historic site, collecting a total of 88 stamps to complete the passport.

In May of 2016, Lucy and I took the challenge and spent the next 16 months exploring the best of Missouri. We spent our weekends and vacations hiking, touring, and photographing our amazing park system. Along the way we were often asked which parks are our favorites, which are the best for hiking, best day trips from KC, etc.

I decided to take a stab at retracing our steps and provide an online journal of the highlights. The journal entries will be listed in the order we visited the parks. I tried to include the basics - location, history, amenities and photos (when we remembered to take them). If you’ve had the pleasure of visiting these sites, please feel free to leave your experiences here as well.

My hope is this journal will help you discover your next day trip or inspire you to get outside and enjoy everything our natural environment has to offer.