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@jwspace
Fashion of Strong Personality
Great style is the reflection of a strong identity. Is very common to develop a personal style based on people we admire, is a start point and from there the goal is to create looks that will portray individuality. Just as we can easily praise our influences we can easily judge; everybody is constantly judging and I think this comes down to the idea that by seeing others appearance somehow gives the illusion of knowing them despite not having any interaction at all with them. If we become careless about judgement is easier to experiment, to be bold and to be creative when it comes to creating an image, an identity and –if you are unlucky enough– a trend.
Trends, like everything, come with the good and the bad. The good is the historical impact fashion trends have had, is important to recognize it whether if it’s presented in a political, religious or social view. The bad is how trends can turn people into water-down-robotic versions of the original concept. Is boring to see so many girls trying to look like a Kardashian-Jenner on the street these days. There’s no sense of originality anymore, no personality, no charisma, no sexuality, nothing. People who merely lose themselves into trends instead of using them as inspiration are either poorly creative or insecure.
Fashion is very repetitive and a subject to interpretation, so just because a look was presented before it doesn’t mean it was popular or even accepted in that period of time. But if someone takes that look and presents it in a different way that reflects their persona then that’s when something unique is created.
The amazing thing about fashion is that there’s no rules. Dare to create yourself, break the fashion trend.
Sarah Linh Tran
Sid & Nancy.
And your love of fashion came from family? Chicago? Ralph Lauren? Music?
I had an aunt that had Alzheimer's. She had Alzheimer's and she still showed up fresher than everybody else. She couldn't remember anything else, but her suit was so put together and tailored. So those types of things are in your DNA. It's not a marketing scheme. It's not a business opportunity. It is a life path and a life calling that we dedicate our life to imagery. To artistry. It's in our soul. This is a life calling. Anybody here, like if you haven't got your heart broken, you really don't even deserve to be in this room right now. Like, you know, you look at that price tag, and you save up for it, and you have enough to get it on layaway, and it's not at the store by the time you get there? And you have, like, "Whoa, this one's on sale and in my size?" moments, also.
People used to look at me as like, Oh, he's just this rapper when we would be out in Paris. But I've loved being in this community of people who appreciated the art, the suffering, the pain. You know, [Alexander] McQueen! When I was in the hospital, there were times where I'd wake up in the morning and I'd go to the office against all corporate odds just for McQueen. There would be days where I'd say, I'm doing this for McQueen right now. I am still living. Because he was killed by the corporations. [Ed. note: McQueen died by suicide in 2010.] And the artists and the spirit, the true people who grew up on texture, that had to get up out of a small town and go to a Company Limited to eventually become the creative director of GQ, are the leaders of the conversation. It’s not how quick something goes. It’s not how quick it can be copied. It’s not how much it can be doubled tripled, ten-xed on the stock market and what the market cap is. It's the people here who have had their hearts broken because their mama couldn't afford that jacket that they had to have. [The ones who] at that moment say, "We're going to dedicate our life to this."
So we'll always be in front of that jacket and be able to express it the way we put it together. And it don't stop until the casket drop. My grandpa—you go to a year before he died, he'd say, "That's a nice suit!" He’d say, "You've got good taste!"
Kanye West, GQ 2019
what do you think is beautiful, and how do you try to express that in your work?
kindness is beautiful. wit is beautiful. not everybody is blessed with classical beauty, i don’t reject classical beauty. classical beauty is wonderful. and i respond to it too. i don’t reject it, but i’m just saying, you know, not all of us could get that classical beauty so what are the other options? what other things can we develop? so that’s what i try and do. i try and explore that side because there’s ruthlessness to beauty too. the way the internet works now, more and more people are presented with these ideas of beauty and you get the feeling that you’re entitled to it. we’re not, we’re not entitled to anything. we’re not entitled to happiness. we’re not entitled to beauty, we’re not entitled to comfort. we’re lucky if we get a fraction of any of those things. that’s the cynic in me … again.
Rick Owens, H-magazine, 2019
what is your golden rule when it comes to style?
the main rule is not to worry about rules. i would never impose my personal vision, which is niche at best. however. i might offer suggestions. one suggestion might be: never try to be someone you're just not. love who you are.
what is the one item that no wardrobe should be without?
a worn black leather jacket. it is important to have a wardrobe of white t-shirts.
what would you say makes the perfect t-shirt?
i like a white t-shirt in thin 100% cotton with a coordinating rib neck-binding. i find that cotton drapes more modestly than a silk or viscose, which clings more.
what details should you look for?
i like tubular knits without a seam. or one seam going down the back, like mine.
what does it say about you?
i like to think it suggests comfort with one's physicality and practical functionality.
do you think style is something you can buy, or learn, or is it something you are born with?
anyone, anyone, anyone can invent themselves. with grooming, a fit body and a generous spirit, anyone can create allure.
how do you ensure that you are neither overdressed nor underdressed?
have the confidence to accept who you are and relax. and i don't think you can ever overdress.
how do you ensure that your look is always interesting and never dull?
i think looking interesting might be overrated.
if it important to be true to yourself in terms of your wardrobe, what are your tips to achieve this?
if you have any doubts, modesty and restraint are always an option. express yourself with an open heart instead of your clothes.
Rick Owens, vogue australia – february 2010
Inside Rick Owens & Michele Lamy’s Paris Home:
Photo I: Sculpture by Horst Egon Kalinowski in the meeting
Photo II: In the library, the couch, triangular stool and shelving all designed by RO
Photo III: A daybed covered in suede with a sable blanket, both by Owens, whose designs are sold through Salon 94 in New York City and Gallerie Pierre-Marie Giraud in Brussels.
Photo IV: An installation of objects on Owens’s desk includes a skull and Roc crystals.
Photo V: Owens’s minimalist shower
Photo VI: A brass-topped table by Owens
Photo VII: The Owens-designed bed is pine plywood covered in cashmere felt.
Photo VIII: Owens leans against a concrete sink in a bathroom he designed.
Photos by. François Halard
Alexander McQueen by Sam Taylor-Johnson
2003
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ph. Irving Penn for Issey Miyake (1988)
‘I don’t feel too excited about fashion today. People just want cheap fast clothes and are happy to look like everyone else.’ —Rei Kawakubo