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Nozzle repair

Hello, I purchased a new Best Roca 17meter kite in May and have used it about 7-8 times total. I noticed the last time out that my leading edge was relatively limp an hour into flying it so I brought it home to inspect for a hole. I took your advice from a previous post and filled up the leading edge (struts closed off) and squirted it with soap water. There was pretty quickly a large amount of bubbles coming out right on the nozzle. I am new to kiting and am not sure how to repair this to resume kiting. There is a zipper for entry near the nozzle but i don’t know what to do once i unzip and open. Can you provide any advice on how to repair this hole?

Thank you!!

Ian

kiterepair-blog

Ian,

You’ll want to go in through the zippered access that you found. I’m assuming that the “nozzle” you’re talking about is the main inflate valve. That valve is usually held in place with Velcro around its perimeter. Push the valve into the sleeve of the kite so that you can then pull it out the zippered opening.

I like to carefully pull three to four feet of the center of bladder out the zipper. Use two rags (strips of a soft material) to tie off the bladder about two feet either side of the area you suspect has a hole. This will let you inflate just that area on the bladder to look for the hole. If the hole is not within a 1/2 inch of the valve base you should have enough real estate to use a ‘peel and stick’ patch to fix the hole. If the hole is up against the valve you may need to put a new ‘peel and stick’ valve on with an adhesive base that covers the pin hole.

Regards,

AIRTIME team

How many years do bladders typically last? My 3 year old 8m North Neo kite is in for a repair (panel tear) and I was wondering if I should replace the bladder while you have it.

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Mnschaus,

Bladder material itself will probably outlast your kite, however, the valves tend to fail (release from the bladder) after 3-7 years. Why is that?

Well, valves are almost always made of PVC and bladders are made of TPU film (polyurethane). The PVC valves have plasticizer (the more you have the softer the valve). That plasticizer leaches out of the PVC valve and causes the valve to separate from the TPU film. This process happens over time but is accelerated by heat. It doesn’t matter if you use your kite or not, with time, the valves will fail. Try to store your kite in a cool dry environment so you get the most life possible out of the valves.

I see no reason to swap out bladders at a certain date. However, once a valve or two fails you should probably replace bladders, or all valves, because you know they’re all on the verge of going. By swapping out the valves, or bladders, you start the clock over and know you’ll have another 3-7 years before you have to deal with valve issues again.

If your kite is at that 3-7 year age and you’re going on a trip of a lifetime you should probably pack a few Valve Traps with you so that you can fix a valve that goes while you’re away.

AIRTIME

Bladder Repair

In trying to patch a hole in the bladder, it is hard because the bladder is curved or a cylinder. A way to help this is if you have a barbecue grill with a curved lid (Cool grid not HOT!, or some other curved shape?), lay it along the axis of the curve of the lid and the bladder will nto only be flat but the patch, or valve will be bonded on while it is curved.

Cheers,

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We like this trick, thanks for sharing. You can also tape the bladder down using masking tape so that it is stretched tight and flat. Whatever works to get the job done.

Repairing North Lazy Pump valves with the Valve Trap by AIRTIME.

#valve trap north kiteboarding valve repair

Are you afraid?

We kite because we like the challenge. We like the risks and the rewards, but sometimes the elements get the best of us. Our friend Melissa Gil charges as hard as anyone and this January her kite took a beating in the waves off of Puerto Rico. This is Melissa’s story, and this is why Melissa isn’t afraid to charge.

Are you afraid of trashing your kite? Don’t let fear of hurting your equipment hold you back. Charge hard and let us put the pieces back together.

Melissa’s 8m Cabrinha Drifter was ripped front to back along the center strut, the tear followed the leading edge to the right wingtip strut, and then ripped all the way to the trailing edge. On the left side the kite was ripped front to back along the wingtip strut. It might have looked bad but we fix kites every day and this was nothing out of the ordinary for us.

We begin by taping kites back together with masking tape. We’re able to match up all the pieces and check the shape before we ever run it under a sewing machine.

Once we’re sure the shape is correct we overlay the damage panels with original fabrics. The fabrics are glued down with the same tapes used when the kites are manufactured.

It’s at this point that we can restore affected graphics.

We then run the kite under the sewing machine matching factory stitches.

Once stitched together we carefully cut out the damage from below the new panels.

The finished product is a kite that flies just as it did prior to the damage. If you look close you can see evidence of the repair. A few extra seams that tell a story of adventure, challenges, and maybe even failure.

Hi, I'm trying to repair a strut valve on the main bladder that cracked on an older Slingshot Key kite. I purchased an airtime U-stick valve and cut the old one out leaving a 2.5" diameter hole. The problem I see now is that when I go to stick the airtime valve on, it will not only stick to the perimeter of the hole, but also the opposite inside wall of the bladder. What's the recommended solution to prevent this from happening?

wayno-san,

Good question. After you cut a bad valve off of a bladder you have to be careful that the new ‘peel and stick’ valve doesn’t stick to the opposite side of the bladder. We have a blog post with pictures showing you exactly how to perform this repair.

Here is the link:

https://tmblr.co/ZtNLJy1KxstGq

Easy because of our Online Quote

Our online ticketing system allows you to upload pictures of your kite so we can quickly quote you repair costs before your kite ever ships. That same ticket is a permanent record of everything we've ever serviced on your kite. Since we stand behind our work there's never a question about what we have or haven’t serviced on your kite.

Click the link to the closest repair facility and we’ll give you a quote.

OREGON REPAIR | FLORIDA REPAIR

Fast because we'll arrange inbound shipping if you want Since not everyone has easy access to a UPS or FedEx account we'll arrange inbound shipping if you want. You tell us box dimensions and we send you a shipping label. Hand your box off to any UPS driver or drop it off at any UPS Store and the kite is on it's way. Fast because we have 2 Locations

We've got a location in Florida and Oregon. No matter where you are in the country transit time is no more than a few days. Fast because we stock a full assortment of original fabrics and OEM valves

We stock a full assortment of original fabrics and OEM valves so your kite doesn't have to wait for us to order replacement parts.

Hi guys, I replaced a LE valve on a Naish Park 2014 but I can't get the octopus system to remain airtight upon reassembly. I use thread tape as per the old video they posted but after 6 tries of varying thread tape amounts and positions the kite still deflates. I removed all the bladders and tested them in water individually and they all hold air by themselves. Do you have any tricks or advice? Would a small amount of seal rope caulk work? (Duck Brand 283580 Press to Seal Rope Caulk). Thanks

Sounds like you’ve done most of the work by separating all the bladders and testing each bladder individually. If all the bladders test good then it must be the connection of the Octopus valve(s).

We would connect struts to the l.e. one at a time and test until there is a leak to see which interface is leaking. We would then concentrate on that connection.

I’m not familiar with the Duck Brand 283580 and I’m not sure how it will work with the Octopus valves. I would be afraid of using anything that could damage the plastic of the valves so I’d stick to the Teflon tape. Also, make sure that the valves are fully mated. The little notches on the male valve will couple into the cut outs on the female valves. If they aren’t all the way seated they can leak some.

Hope this helps.

Casey

The kite that doesn’t come in for repair

We repair thousands of kites a year (really...we do) and people constantly ask us, “since you fix all the kites you must know which ones are the best...what brand is it?”. Well, if we go off of the kite that never comes in for repair we'd have to tell you that the Naish AR3.5 from 1999 is amazing. We haven't fixed one of those kites in over 10 years.

And you probably know why… because no one rides them anymore!

But seriously, the kites we don't see often are the kites that get taken care of. Here are some tips to keep your kite out of our repair shop.

Don't leave your kite out and inflated when you're not using it. Here are three reasons why.

UV - The fabric is only good for so many hours in the sun. It doesn't matter if you're riding it or if it's just sitting there. So make sure the hours it spends in the sun are hours that you're actually riding.

Flapping – The fastest way to damage fabric is to let it flap in the wind. You can put up a flag made of canopy cloth and after just 24 hours of 20mph wind you will see damage to the fabric. 3 days and it will begin to fall apart.

Abrasion – If your kite is moving around on the sand or any other hard surface it's like hitting it with sand paper.

Check your kite before and after each session. It takes two minutes while the kite is inflated to check for small tears and wear spots.

If you self launch, check where the kite slides on the ground.

Check the segment seams on the l.e. to see if any of the stitching has been worn from abrasion. If you see abrasion starting put some Dacron over the seam to serve as a scuff patch.

If the seams are already failing you better get a sewn repair before it splits open and costs you a new l.e. bladder.

Check where pigtails or bridels rub on the l.e. If abrasion is just starting put down repair tape to take the brunt of the abuse.

Check the front 3rd of the canopy where the majority of the load is. If you see any tears throw a bit of Dacron sale repair tape over it so it doesn't turn into a major repair when you tomahawk the thing.

Keep it clean

Knock sand off the kite before rolling it up. Dry sand is like sand paper.

Keep the valves clean. Sand in the O-rings of newer valves will damage the seals and cause leaking.

Don't leave the kite in your hot car more than is absolutely necessary.

All valves on kites will fail with time (yes, all of them) and failure is accelerated by heat. If you leave your kite in your hot car for a couple of weeks you'll probably take a year or two of life span off the valves.

#kite repair #DIY kite repair #airtime kite #kiteboarding

I have two '07 North Rhinos and need about 14 more Option Valves. Do the ones on your site come with the valve trap or do I need to buy those seperately?

The short answer is yes. The OPTION valves have a 4" diameter adhesive base so they're easy to 'peel and stick' to bladders.

Now for the longer answer. I'm assuming the North 2 Pump systems on your kites are giving you trouble. The "T" valves at the head of each strut have a tendency to crack. The OPTION valve is our solution to replacing those valves.

PROS: They're easier to install than original valves since they are 2 piece and you can insert the "T" after the bladder is in place. Being two pieces the rigidity of the "T" and the flex of the OPTION valve prevents cracking.

CONS: With this system the valves get smashed between the strut and the l.e. bladder when everything is inflated tight (that's one reason why the original North valves break). This stress may tweak the "T" insert just right and cause a leak where the "T" enters the OPTION valve. The kite may hold air great for 10 sessions and then on the eleventh a strut loses air because one of the valves is tweaked just a little too much. Next 10 sessions all holds well, then on the eleventh a different strut loses a little air, etc, etc, etc.

Our OPTION valve is the best fix for a system that wasn't that great to begin with but it doesn't make the system perfect.

When Bad Valves Need to be Cut Off (bladder repair)

When repairing your kite you can usually use heat to remove valves from bladders. If heat doesn't work you're left asking, "how do I remove a bad valve from a bladder?". This is when you need to cut the damaged valve off. The problem is that you're then left with a hole larger than normal so when the new replacement valve is attached it will stick to the other side of the bladder (no bueno).

The easiest way to work around this is to put something inside the bladder so that the new 'peel and stick' valve doesn't stick to the opposite side. Here's a pictorial on how to do it with plastic from a supermarket bag.

1) cut as tight to the valve as possible

2) use a thin plastic and cut it just larger than the hole left by the valve

3) cut a hole in the center of protective plastic

4) put the protective plastic inside the bladder and center the hole

5) stick the valve on the bladder aligning the valve to the hole in the protective plastic

No need to worry about removing the protective plastic, it will have a rich rewarding life living inside your kite.

If you think you can do it better let us know.

#valve trap #kite boarding #kite repair #kiteboarding

I have a 2012 LF Envy 12M that has a slow leak somewhere. Over about an hour in the water the kite gets soft. There is no damage to the kite and I have no idea how to track down where the leak is and how to patch it. Can you give me a recommendation? Cheers! -Dustin

How to find a leak in a Liquid Force Max Flow bladder

Dustin,

If you haven’t identified which bladder on your Liquid Force Envy is leaking you should pump the kite up, pinch off each hose connecting the leading edge to the struts, and let the kite sit. This will let you know if it’s a strut bladder or the leading edge bladder that is leaking. If it’s a strut you can remove it pretty quickly and water test it. The water test will tell you if it’s the valve or a pin hole in the bladder.

If the leading edge lost air you should start with a 50/50 water and soap solution in a spray bottle. Pump the kite up rock hard and spray down all the valves and hoses. Let the kite sit for ten minutes and then check to see if there are any bubbles. You might get lucky and find that one of the valves is leaking. If so, let us know which one and we can give you recommendations on how to fix it.

If no valves show leaks you’ll want to soap down the leading edge fabric. Most damage will be on the front edge of the leading edge where the kite comes into contact with the ground when laying leading edge down. Again, pump the kite rock hard, soak the fabric, and then let the kite sit for ten minutes and check for bubbles.

If you see bubbles you’ll want to note where the leak is (I suggest taking a measurement from the nearest valve) and then pull the bladder out and patch the hole.

If no bubbles appeared when you soaped down the kite you’ll need to pull the l.e. bladder and water test. Fill up a tub of water and submerge 1 or 2 feet at a time.

Let us know what you find and if you need help fixing it. If you need any new bladders for your Liquid Force kite we have a full line up of bladders with OEM valves at this link:

http://www.airtimekite.com/index.php/airtime-kite-bladders/assembled-bladders/liquid-force-kiteboarding-bladders/liquid-force-kiteboarding-replacement-bladders.html

Regards,

Casey

LEARN THE TRICKS and these repair bits will save your session

1) Valve Trap

Designed to re-attach any valve but can also be used to patch a hole next to the valve. Normal repair tapes either don't have enough coverage to seal a hole next to the valve or they won't conform to the irregularities of the valve. Stick just the top half of a Valve Trap over the valve and you're done in minutes.

Pinholes in your bladder and no patch kit? Cut the Valve Trap up and use the pieces to patch pinholes.

2) Pocket knife

Look cool and be prepared. Leave your scissors at home and pack a pocket knife. With a pocket knife you can cut the Valve Trap to fit any valve, cut a Valve Trap into small rounds to patch pin holes in the bladder, cut repair tapes to size, open beer bottles, and cut lines out of jets ski impellers.

3) Dacron repair tape

Rip your kite in half and need to finish your session? Tape that bad boy back together with Dacron tape. One strip of repair tape on top and a second layer on the bottom of the tear. Then run some big strips perpendicular like butterfly bandages to give it some real strength.

Tear in the l.e. sleeve or a strut sleeve? Work some repair tape inside and then put a second layer on the outside. Use way more than you think you'll need so that it can't blowout under pressure.

You know that Dacron tape will work on bladders? Yeap, we've patched holes in bladders that are quarter sized and it worked great. The adhesive is enough to make the Dacron weave air tight.

Worried about blowing out a bladder tip? Put a layer of Dacron tape over the bladder tips and they're now super strong. You can even use a strip of tape to secure the bladder tips to the end of the bladder sleeve.

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Now why don't you click the "Share your tricks" button to the left and tell us how you fix kites in the field.

Dear Airtime, over the past few months my kite's valves have started delaminating. I was thinking of using the Valve Traps to patch them up, but since I have a Liquid Force kite with Maxflow inflation system I am not sure if it will work. Will the Valve Traps fit with a Maxflow inflation valve? Kind regards, Marlies

Marlies,

Good question.

You have two types of valve on the kite. You have the main Max Flow inflate valve and you have the smaller valves that are connected by hoses to the valves on the struts of your kite.

The Valve Traps will work great to repair the smaller valves that connect to the struts with hoses. However, you want to make sure the valves themselves are in good shape. Check them to visually to make sure they have no cracks. If they are in good shape you can use the Valve Traps to repair them. If the valves are cracked at all you’ll want to buy new valves here.

Please see this post showing you how to work around the fabric reinforcing that is used on the Liquid Force bladders.

The large Max Flow inflate valve almost never needs repair. What we have seen is the need to clean it out well if it gets sand in it. We recommend pulling the gasket out of the screw cap and cleaning it. Also, reach into the valve and make sure there is no sand where the red silicone flap seals against the valve.

Have fun working on your kite and let us know if you have any additional questions.

The AIRTIME kite team

#valve trap #liquid force #max flow

ugg. I just repaired a tear in a bladder with Type B Tearaid after reading that recommendation in an online forum. Then I noticed on the instructions that Type A is recommended for poly material. Can you tell me if I need to pull this all off and redo with Type A. Several online sites (like Murray's Marine and Kitesufari say that Type B is great for bladders. You guys are the experts, your comments would be appreciated. Many thanks.

This is a really good question, people are often confused by the two types of Tear-Aid.

First, the difference between the two Types

Tear-Aid Type B is an acrylic based adhesive. This is the exact same adhesive we used on our FIX KIT valves (same supplier but not private labelled by Tear-Aid).

Tear-Aid Type A is a rubber based adhesive. This is the what we use for our ORANGE specific valves.

Second, pros and cons

Acrylic adhesives (Type B) resist chemicals, resist UV, have better stability when exposed to heat, and are recommended for marine environments. Type B does not adhere well to low surface energy surfaces. Type B is the best choice for repairing an original or polyurethane bladder (don't hate me because I believe in science).

The reason that some people don't like acrylic adhesive (Type B) is that it doesn't reach full strength for 24-48 hours, however, 80% of it's strength is achieved after just one hour at room temperature. Had you tried to remove the patch immediately after adhering it you may have been able to get it to release.

Rubber based adhesives (Type A) will break down more quickly when exposed to chemicals, heat, and UV.You can see this for yourself if you hit Type A with 99% alcohol. Work some under the edge of the patch with a Q-tip and it will release leaving no residue on the bladder.

The reason people like Type A is that it feels 'stickier' and is usually good enough for bladder/kite repair (otherwise people would be complaining about it on the forums). Type A is very good for low surface energy surfaces.

Our preferences

We prefer the acrylic (Type B) because it will adhere better to bladders with lot's of natural lubricant (bladders with a smooth oily feel). Type A requires much better bladder preparation. If you don't have a clean bladder Type A will not stick.

We use the Type A version on our ORANGE bladders because the outside layer is a low surface energy poly that Type B will not adhere to.

If you use Type A on the canopy you may get adhesive leaking out from under it and gathering sand if it's exposed to UV and heat.

If you want to speed up the adhesion of Type B you should heat it after applying it to the bladder or kite (with caution of course).

You used the right product for your repair and I don't see any reason for you to even use Type A if you have Type B in your repair kit. Thanks for posting us your question and let us know if you need any additional explanations.

Casey

Almost done with the move to our new warehouse in the Fort Lauderdale area. Open house tomorrow night (Tue 29th) 6pm to 9pm. Come see the place, enjoy some drinks, and get some kites repaired. There will be at least one of us on a table fixing small kite repairs for free (first come first serve).

AIRTIME kite, Inc

2712 NW 30th Ave

Lauderdale Lakes, FL 33311

From 95 go west on Oakland Park Blvd to NW 31st. Go left and then second left is in to Lauderdale Lakes Industrial Park. We're second road on the right, building on the left, sign out in front of our bay.

IMPROVED VALVE TRAP

The best part of making everything in the USA is that we can easily tweak our kite repair products to make them the very best. Our latest alteration is an improvement on the release paper on the Valve Trap.

We had a handful of incidents where the slit on the bottom of the Valve Trap was a little too deep and the foam cracked if it was bent too much. If the foam cracked there was the possibility of an air channel running under the valve and out that crack.

To solve the problem we copied the trusty old band-aid and went for two pieces of release paper that overlap. It's easy to peel and there's no scoring so no chance of damaged foam.

If you think you can make any of our products better let us know. We'd love to improve the Valve Trap even more.

Valve Tap: Quickly and easily re-use any OEM valve for repairing kite bladders or assembling new bladders.

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