Maggie So Far

Hi! I'm Maggie Tsang, a food addict, mother of one wild little girl, and American expat currently living in beautiful Shanghai.

[maggiesofar]

A Walk in the Park

After a boring and not-so-great few days of horrid air pollution and a nasty stomach bug, I couldn’t wait to get outside yesterday. The air was clean, all members of the family had stopped vomiting, and I was finally feeling like a human being again. What more can you ask for?

I decided to drag the family out for an early walk in the park to take advantage of an amazing day. Luckily, it wasn’t too hot yet when we headed outside in the morning, so I managed to convince Keith it was a good idea. We traipsed down Hengshan Lu to Xujiahui Park. It’s only about a 10 minute walk from our apartment...which is pretty awesome, if you ask me, because this park is fantastic.

Xujiahui Park is a 21.4 acre space of pristine nature and tranquility that sits right on the edge of the bustling Xujiahui shopping district. It’s free to visit, it’s peaceful and gorgeous, and it’s got a little something for everyone. Near the entrance there’s a basketball court and a small playground. In the middle of the park, there’s a large elevated walkway, beautifully maintained pathways, and tons of benches. There’s even an artificial lake with black swans waddling around for children to watch and/or shriek at.  Oh come on, don’t tell me it’s just my child who still shrieks at birds.

I think the best part is that it’s just a really beautiful place you can go right in the middle of Shanghai and feel calm. You can sit on quiet benches underneath a wall of towering bamboo trees, you can have a pleasant family picnic, you can watch groups practice tai chi, you can sit by the lake and watch the swans, or you can just savor the loveliness that is walking outside without motorbikes almost running you over.  

Our morning at the park ended up being such a fun time. We watched an elderly woman play the recorder on a bench under the trees, strolled aimlessly beneath the bamboo, and made friends with a few other babies, moms, and ayis. It was exactly the breath of fresh air and relaxation we needed after a weekend spent cooped-up and cranky.

Of course, the heat caught up with us, and after a couple hours with Mika in the carrier, I was too sticky and sweaty to do anything but take the train straight home. But I think this park will definitely be one of our more-visited spots during our time here in Shanghai, especially when it cools off a bit. It truly is a gem!

[maggiesofar]

Shanghai | The First Month

Our first month in Shanghai is in the books! We are settled in our new apartment, our belongings have arrived via air shipment, and life is clipping along. In the midst of adjusting to our surroundings, learning the area, and general work/family life, we are shamelessly shoveling as much Chinese food into our mouths as possible.

Last night after Mika went to sleep, Keith and I took a little break to just cuddle on the sofa and reminisce over all the places life has taken us so far. It’s wonderful to be able to catch our breath and savor these sweet moments in our new home. And, boy, what adventures the two of us have had together!

This month we’ve been fortunate with a number of good quality air days, so we’ve braced ourselves against the heat and spent a fair bit of time wandering outside, swatting mosquitos and taking in the scenery. Considering the number of swollen, itchy red bumps I have trailing down both my legs and arms, I’d say the swatting has been sub-par, but the scenery has been excellent. 

When Keith is home on the weekends, we’ve taken the afternoons to explore some of the bigger, famous areas that are just a few metro stops from our apartment — Xujiahui, Xintiandi, and South Shaanxi Road. 

Last weekend, we browsed the Foreign Language Bookstore in People’s Square. While Keith and I were elated over the availability of so many English books, Mika had an utter meltdown over being in her stroller that cut our shopping spree short. The rest of the afternoon was spent passing her back and forth in tired arms, pushing an empty stroller along crowded, bumpy sidewalks, and taking a much-needed mid-afternoon meal break at a restaurant in Raffles City mall (the Chinese name of the restaurant roughly translates to “Yao Yao Loves Fish” — delicious, spicy and pretty!)

On weekdays, Mika and I like to walk around our immediate neighborhood in the Former French Concession. She and I have indulged in some excellent pastries, stopped for tea at a coffee shop on Wulumuqi Road where Mika (I’m sure) made quick friends with all of the other patrons by babbling loudly non-stop, and found the famed Avocado Lady — a tiny, crowded storefront well-known to local expats selling a hodgepodge of imported items. 

In the middle of the month, Keith went on a business trip to the Chinese city of Xiamen, and then last week another trip to Yinchuan (which is the capital of the Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region in northern China, in case your Far East geography is a bit rusty). Mika and I took it easy while he was gone, lounging around the apartment while Mika practiced standing and I practiced not being a nervous wreck every time she stumbles.

So that’s a wrap on our first month! It’s funny how quickly we can adapt to a new setting...especially with a baby. It feels like we’re “home” as long as she’s around doing her baby things and having her baby needs taken care of. While I still miss Tokyo, especially when I look back at our photos, I find myself far less homesick than I thought I would be after just a month. 

Of course, this may just be the “honeymoon” period before the shock of adjustment and change sets in. I’ll keep you posted!

[maggiesofar]

Thailand | Family Style

In April, we took Mika to Hong Kong for the weekend to visit our sweet relatives who live there. It was her first time meeting her great-grandparents, and we had such a lovely time playing with all her aunts, uncles, and cousins. As we sat around at dinner on our last night there, lamenting that we had to leave so soon, someone tossed out the idea of a family trip to Thailand.

Three months (and many, many logistical emails) later, we all arrived in Pattaya, Thailand (about two hours’ drive from Bangkok) for a week-long family vacation. Instead of a hotel, we rented a large villa with enough rooms for all four family units to stay together under one roof.

To be honest, I was a little nervous about the accommodation at first because I’ve always been strictly a hotel girl. But the View Talay Marina villa was a hit. The villa was spacious and welcoming. Each room had a big bed with clean white duvets and stacks of fresh towels waiting for us. Outside, there was a beautiful blue saltwater pool, a waterfall, and a pool table. Our young cousin Jack immediately got to work running around the backyard, slipping right into his swim trunks and diving into the pool, while the adults unpacked and got busy on the interesting spicy snacks we bought at the airport.

We spent the week enjoying life as a big family. Everyone played with Mika during the days, and at night the adults gathered around the table at night drinking tea, chatting, and sharing delicious homemade dinners. And we achieved a big milestone: Mika took her first dip in a pool ever. At first she wasn’t sure she liked it, but after a few minutes kicking around in her baby float, she seemed to find her sea legs. 

Of course, it wouldn’t be a vacation with a baby if everything went to plan. On our first day there, we noticed Mika was not herself — very cranky, clingy, tired. Turns out she had come down with a fever. After a quick trip to the pharmacy for Baby Tylenol, we spent the next couple days keeping everything low-key, lots of snuggling in bed and lounging poolside while the family splashed and swam. Luckily, Mika started feeling better quickly and, after a few fitful nights, she was full of baby giggles once again. 

On Wednesday, the ladies took a trip to the nearby Grace Spa for some pampering and relaxation. The spa was a beautiful, green sanctuary in the midst of a crowded city. Sometimes it’s hard for me to truly unwind and get my mind to slow down, but in this private wood hut, getting kneaded and rolled with hot stones, I managed to completely disconnect and embrace a few hours of nothing but peace (and, let’s be honest, a little pain because that woman was STRONG). 

After the spa, we stopped by the Naklua Fish Market to pick up some fresh fish for dinner. We were so lucky to have our dear cousin Mandy with us, who cooks for the family restaurant in Hong Kong. While the market with its overwhelming smells and varieties of seafood was completely new and exotic to me, Mandy led us through with the seasoned eye of a professional, inspecting and haggling over the best ingredients. It was such a treat to watch her in action at the market — and to devour the feast she prepared for us that evening as well!

The next morning after breakfast, the whole family headed out to Ramayana Water Park. The rest of the group took the plunge on the big drops and fast slides, while Keith, Mika, and I played in the splash pad area, pushing Mika in the baby swing and watching her just squeal with delight. 

The week was so sweet and special, and we were all sad to part ways at the airport. It certainly reminded me of the bittersweet nature of our expat experience — although it gives us the incredible opportunity to easily visit places like Thailand, it also means we live most of the time isolated from family and life-long friends. 

Oh well. I guess we’ll just have to plan more amazing family trips to make sure we see each other regularly. I’m sure I can convince the group. Vietnam, anyone?

[maggiesofar]

A Tiny Memory

Our best friends from college just had their first baby, a sweet boy named Theodore. As I gush over his newborn photos and watch him squirm on FaceTime, I’m taken back to ten months ago — when Mika was just as tiny, squirmy, and fragile.

Naturally, I started looking through photos from her first month — this unbelievably tiny human nestled on my chest, my eyes glossy from lack of sleep, my smile so content and proud. Ten months later, and I still remember the quiet serenity of those early morning breastfeeds, sitting in the living room of our Tokyo apartment, watching the sun rise out the window, just me and my precious little girl. She seemed too small, too perfect, too vulnerable to even be real, but there she was.

I guess this falls under the category of really, really obvious, but I’ll say it anyway: the newborn days are unbelievably special...and unbelievably fleeting. There’s just nothing else like it. But one of my biggest regrets is that, at the time, I didn’t appreciate it nearly enough. When she was so small, all I wanted was for the next stage to get here — for her to grow, smile, laugh, crawl, talk. I was overtired and over-cranky, and every day I felt impatient for more milestones to come so we could just move on already. 

And now that those milestones are coming fast and furious, all I can think is STOP.  Slow down, little one. Stay tiny as long as you can. 

Yes, I’m so happy with the way my baby is growing up. With each day it seems her personality shines through more and more, and I feel so lucky to get to know and care for this sweet, funny child. But if I could, just for a day or so, would I travel back to those warm, cozy, sleep-deprived newborn days? You bet. 

[maggiesofar]

5 Surprising Things About Shanghai

Nimen hao! I’m currently sitting in our new Shanghai apartment in my pajamas with a takeout dish of leftover Chinese food on the table, a few remaining boxes of our stuff at my feet waiting to be unpacked, and a sleeping baby in the next room. The past two weeks have been tiring, and I’ve gone more days than I care to admit without washing my hair, but as we begin to figure out our new routines here, each day is starting to feel a little closer to normal. Not normal, yet, but normal...ish.

In between the mundane business of setting up bank accounts and figuring out where to buy groceries, I’m doing my best to explore our new city as much as I can. Since everything here is all so new to me, I wanted to write down what my first impressions are while it’s still fresh.

At this point, I have to say I think I’m falling in love with Shanghai! The city is charismatic and comfortable...and confusing and confrontational, all at once. The people here are so open and friendly, but they’re also frank and strong-willed. There’s a palpable energy, ambition, and pride in their country. And, of course, the food is ridiculously good. 

So, here are five things that have surprised me about Shanghai in our first weeks here. 

A FRESH LOOK

Because Shanghai is one of the largest cities in the world, in my mind, it was going to be an overwhelming concrete jungle. However, I’m amazed by how green and vibrant the city actually is! I could gush for hours (and, if you ask Keith, I already have) about the breathtaking arches of trees lining the streets outside our apartment, the lush gardens peeking out from behind wrought-iron fences, the expansive parks. I really doubt most people have this in mind when they think of Shanghai — I certainly didn’t.

NO MONEY, NO PROBLEMS

Shanghai is making significant strides toward being a cashless society. They’re also not big on credit cards. If you want to pay for things here, the way to do it is on your smartphone through a couple apps called WeChat or AliPay. Most places will still accept your cash or (maybe) credit card if you don’t have the app, but it will probably slow them down and lead to general confusion. 

This system makes it a little inconvenient for tourists because you can’t set up the apps unless you have a Chinese bank account. But for locals, there are some really nice benefits associated with digitizing all payments. No more fumbling for money in your wallet while a check-out line forms behind you, no more loose change rolling in the bottom of your purse. And, of course, using less paper and coin money is a terrific idea for helping the environment. 

TAKE A DEEP BREATH

One of my biggest concerns about moving to Shanghai was the air pollution, especially with a baby in tow. And while I still anticipate that there will be some very unhealthy air in our future here, I have been pleasantly surprised at how often the air has been clean enough for us to spend quality time outside. It’s not perfect, but it’s nowhere near as bad as I imagined. 

BABY TALK

I am so happy that we have the opportunity to experience Shanghai with a baby because the people here are truly amazing with small children. Everywhere we go, someone will come up and play with Mika — tickling her feet, playing peekaboo, chatting with her. It makes the city such a friendly place even if you don’t know anyone here yet. 

BETTER SAFE 

At the entrance to each metro station, there’s a security check with baggage screening. Some screeners are more lax than others, and it’s a little inconsistent with which bags need to be screened and which don’t (often the screener will just peer into grocery bags instead of making them go on the belt). But it’s a great, proactive effort to keep the trains safe — one that I’m surprised more cities haven’t implemented by now. 

[maggiesofar]

A Hop, Skip, and (International) Jump

So long, Tokyo. You brought us so many amazing memories, our first baby, a ton of great food, but our time here has come to end!

This week, we packed up our stuff, sold our furniture, and moved out of our Tokyo apartment. The furniture selling was a headache, but the packing was particularly brutal. Who knew we could collect so much stuff in a tiny living space in just a couple years? I don’t even know where some of this stuff came from, but it was ours and we had to figure out something to do with it.

We ended up donating a lot at the last minute so that we could fit everything into just our suitcases and one small shipping container.  (Okay, fine, we also shipped five boxes of books back to the US. Books are both our greatest hobby and our greatest downfall). The apartment was finally empty by Friday, and we took a few last (tearful) selfies before handing in our keys.

We hauled our luggage over to the Westin in Ebisu, which is actually the hotel Keith always stayed at when he used to travel to Tokyo for work (highly recommend it for families — wonderful, large suites!) We enjoyed a few days of leisurely breakfast buffets, early bedtimes, and hitting up our favorite Tokyo spots before heading to the airport for our big move to...

Shanghai!

That’s right. We’ve headed out on another expat adventure. It’s a great feeling —a moment of anticipation, excitement, and anxiety that gives me all the butterflies. Our move to Tokyo years ago was both scary and wonderful, and although making the decision to leave our home, friends, and family behind while we live on the other side of the world was daunting, it’s been an experience I definitely wouldn’t trade for anything. 

So here we go again. China this time. Except now, we have a kid in the mix. I’m not sure things will go quite as smoothly as they did when just the two of us moved to Japan...but I’m sure we’ll still have lots of fun and make tons of wonderful memories together. 

[maggiesofar]

My Tokyo | Ichikoro 156

I can still remember distinctly the afternoon when Keith and I decided on our Tokyo apartment.

We were in Tokyo on our house hunting trip, and we were exploring the Azabu-Juban neighborhood. After a long morning of aimless walking and apartment deliberation, we wandered into a ramen restaurant called Ichikoro 156 for for lunch because Keith and I always make our best decisions over a shared meal. We sat at the counter and just completely flipped out over how delicious the chicken ramen was. By the time the last noodle was slurped up, we had decided that we definitely needed to live close enough to eat here on a regular basis.

Fast-forward a couple years, this restaurant is now one of those places Keith and I go often for happy memories and great food. We take friends and family visiting Tokyo there, we took Mika there as a tiny baby, we’ve celebrated birthdays and anniversaries there.

So while it definitely hits a sentimental note for us, you’ll be happy to know that it’s also just a really, really good meal.

The tori paitan ramen is insanely delicious and very unique among all the pork-based ramen in the city. The chicken collagen soup is creamy and flavorful, and the noodles are cooked to perfection.  While you’re putting in your order at the ticket booth, don’t hesitate to press the button for a side of tasty gyoza as well (we always split a serving of six between the two of us and it’s just the right amount of food).

The restaurant itself is very cool. The walls are covered with drawings, autographs, and happy messages from pleased customers over the years (including yours truly!) It’s a tiny place, but there’s ample counter seating and even a table for four in the front if you’ve come in a group or have small children with you.

There are lots of ramen restaurants to choose from in Tokyo, but I highly recommend making a stop at this one. Its placement by the Azabu-Juban train station exit makes it an easy stop on your visit to the area. And if you’re sitting at the table in the front, you might just spot my family’s signature on the wall by your head!

TORISOBA ICHIKORO 156 2-1-10 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0045, Japan

Open: 11:00 - 4:00 (Every day)

Tel: [phone]

[maggiesofar]

My Tokyo | Onibus Coffee

I have a thing for small, independent coffee shops: the decor, the atmosphere, the intense pride in their brews. I used to hunt around Tokyo for the coolest coffee shops, and just set up camp with my laptop or a book for a few hours enjoying the ambience.

One of my favorite places that I found is Onibus Coffee. It’s tiny and pretty and (the main point) it serves great coffee. It sits tucked into a side street behind the Nakameguro train station and right next to a tidy little playground where you can take your coffee if you’ve come with littles.

You can expect to get expertly-made coffee here, but nothing else. There’s no food, no tea. It’s just coffee...and just dang good coffee at that. (If you really want to enjoy a pastry with your coffee, I recommend stopping by City Bakery outside the train station on your way and get a cookie or biscuit to go.)

While the coffee shop is very small, it’s got a gorgeous upstairs sitting area with tons of sunlight, greenery, and natural wood, making a very refreshing spot to go on a drearier day. Downstairs, there are also a few places to sit outside under a vine-covered trellis.

What a beautiful setting to enjoy a cup of coffee, chat with a friend, and (my preferred past-time) smooch on your little baby! 

ONIBUS COFFEE 2-14-1 Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 153-0051, Japan

Open: 9:00 - 18:00

Tel: [phone]

[maggiesofar]

My Tokyo | And The Friet

Keith loves fries. In fact, it’s a bit of a joke among our friends that no matter what country we’re in, no matter the cuisine, if fries are on a restaurant’s menu, Keith will order them as a side. We’ve eaten fries in too many places for me to remember —Italy, Spain, Mexico...and now Japan.

Last summer, Keith and I were in Hiroo for one of my OB/GYN appointments, and saw the tiniest french fry stand squished in among the shops and convenience stores. There was a line out the door, and people sitting on a small bench outside chatting happily while munching from small boxes of fries. It was insanely hot that day and we weren’t in the mood to brave the line, so we made a mental note to come back.

As luck would have it, the next few days brought a (much needed but, alas, very temporary) break from the scorching heat. One of these mild afternoons, Keith grabbed me for a quick trip back to Hiroo to try out the fries at And The Friet.

This cute fry joint is actually a chain with several locations in Tokyo, although the Hiroo store is their main branch. They serve different style french fries made with potatoes from around the world — you get to choose the potato origin and the style you want (shoestring, wedge, half-cut). Keith and I have now dutifully tried them all, and I can tell you that they’re all wonderfully light, not too greasy, and cooked to crispy perfection. If you’re looking for even more fried food, they also serve some flavorful fried chicken and tangy fried shrimp.

The real showstopper here, though, is the cooked potato, which is essentially a little ball of mashed potatoes inside a french fry.  My goodness. GET THESE. By far, it is the best snack I have had in a long time.

Whether you have time to sit down at the counter and enjoy the fries at the shop — or just grab a box to snack on the go, And The Friet is a must-visit if you happen to be in Hiroo.

AND THE FRIET 5-16-1 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0012, Japan

Open: 11:00 - 21:00 (Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays 10:00 - 21:00)

Tel: [phone]

[maggiesofar]

My Tokyo | French Toast Loncafe

On Tuesday afternoon, Mika and I found ourselves with a few idle hours and some lovely weather on our hands. We hopped on the train to Nakameguro, one of my absolute favorite neighborhoods to wander through when the weather is nice and I have some time to myself.

I planned on taking my usual loop alongside the Meguro river, through Daikanyama, to the train station in Ebisu. It’s a bit of a hike, but I always feel invigorated afterward. There’s such an eclectic mix of boutiques, luxe fashion shops, and cafes along this route; you can find stores specializing in everything from the aggressively avant-garde to the cloyingly cute. I usually finish my walk by thinking about how lucky I am to get to explore Tokyo and its various neighborhoods, teeming with culture and quirk, on a regular basis.

But this time when I walked out of the train station and headed toward the river, I decided to skip the walk and stop into French Toast Loncafe for a little treat instead.

This pretty blue box of a cafe has always caught my eye. I think it’s something about the words “coffee and champagne” — the mix of bubbles and bitter, of celebration and everyday comfort — that speaks to both my inner, little girl desire for sparkle and sweet and my grown-up mom need for caffeine and alcohol. But for some reason I had never stopped in before.  It was finally time to change that.

The place is sweet and tiny inside — definitely not one where you can always count on getting a table. I was lucky enough to snag one of the two little tables outside, where I could enjoy the nice breeze and Mika could throw death glares at anyone who dared to smile at her. That’s my little Miss Congeniality.

The menu is sweet — think french toast covered in ice cream and cheesecake. They have a few savory options, but this is clearly a place to come when you’re looking to throw the diet out the window. I opted to try the citrus fruit french toast and, well, it was definitely decadent. The french toast itself was a hit — it was sweet and fluffy — but I maybe could do without the large helping of ice cream slathered on top.

They offer a wide range of drinks beyond simply coffee and champagne. My mango iced tea was, again, very sweet. I think it would be refreshing on its own, but combined with the french toast it was a bit much even for this sweet tooth. I think coffee would have been an excellent choice to pair with the desserts here.

All in all, though, I’d recommend French Toast Loncafe if you’re looking for a treat. It’s pretty, the food is nice enough, and the location is hard to beat. Feel free to add it to your day in Nakameguro — I think it would make a great spot to catch up with a good friend, or for a Mommy and me date with your little girl.

And if you’re lucky (or just luckier than me), she won’t have a fit halfway through the date and throw ice cream on your lap.

FRENCH TOAST LONCAFE 1-22-12 Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 153-0051, Japan

Open: Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat, Sun, and holidays 9:00 - 23:00

Tel: [phone]

[maggiesofar]

My Tokyo | Sonna Banana Juice

Lately, I’ve been finding more and more opportunities to pop over to Hiroo.

When I was pregnant, Keith and I would head there to National Azabu Supermarket for some international groceries to satisfy my pregnancy cravings (hello, tortilla chips!) And now that Mika’s here and absolutely obsessed with birds, we spend a fair amount of time in Arisugawa Park letting her scream mercilessly at the pigeons.

But whatever the reason we’re there, we have started making a stop at Sonna Banana Juice a regular part of our Hiroo excursion.

I stumbled upon Sonna one afternoon as I was checking out a new dentist office nearby. The banana juice (which I discovered is really just a banana smoothie, in case, like me, you are utterly distracted by the concept of juicing a banana) is made with your choice of either milk or soy milk and toppings like cinnamon, almonds, or black sesame. I ordered it plain with soy milk, and it was GOOD. It’s a perfectly smooth, sippable consistency, with delicious banana taste and not too sweet. I was immediately hooked.

I took Keith there on our next Hiroo trip, and even though he’s not as much of a banana fiend as I am, he was equally impressed. Now he even requests that we stop there every time we’re in the neighborhood, and who am I to disagree? The drink really is too good to pass up and because it’s just a walk-up stand, you don’t have to worry about crowds or getting a table.

So if you’re in the Hiroo area and looking for a simple refreshment, skip the vending machines and head on over to Sonna Banana Juice. You’ll be glad you did. 

SONNA BANANA JUICE 5-9-26 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0012, Japan

Open: 10:30-19:00 (Every day)

Tel: [phone]