Can someone give him his Hat back pls
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Andulka

if i look back, i am lost
noise dept.
Misplaced Lens Cap

Kaledo Art
AnasAbdin
Sade Olutola

titsay

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@theartofmadeline
Mike Driver

JBB: An Artblog!
Claire Keane
ojovivo
PUT YOUR BEARD IN MY MOUTH

pixel skylines
will byers stan first human second

blake kathryn
Aqua Utopiaļ½ęµ·ć®åŗć§čØę¶ćē“”ć
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@mercyfornone
Can someone give him his Hat back pls
pretty cool head lighting ref thing
After the success of the first one, I decided to create another version of the lighting tool. So this is the Female simplified head version.
Here's some notes on some of the upper body muscles so you, artist, don't need to look them up
They are not medically accurate, just enough for artists to know the necessary muscles and how they work together
I 100% recommend doing the last exercise I did to be able to actually place the muscles
@profoundlyexceeded info for you <3
randomly curious if im weird or if people are like me
if you're 20+ what do you usually watch on youtube?
influencers
commentary channels
video essays
music videos/solely for music
product/media reviews
secret 6th option (put in tags)
not 20+ / don't use youtube (results)
Arm Anatomy Studies by Fakhear
Support the artist and check out their Etsy storefront!
Made this because my other āms paint tipsā post is going around, but the images in it were only made as supplemental material for a paper i had to write and dont include all the necessary information on how the tricks work. As a result people are getting very confused when they try them out to unfavorable results. I hope all those people find this post and their confusion can be cleared up.
Good luck, Godspeed, God damn you all!Ā GOD DAMN YOU ALL!Ā - Submitted by tinyheads
#6A1A2E #431824 #E1C999 #CA643A #A52E25
I often get asked how I digitally paint my sketches, so hereās a really simple tutorial explaining the process. You can pretty much use the exact same technique on photoshop or any other digital painting program!
How I Study Anatomy
Everyone says NEVER TRACE!! THAT'S ART THEFT! Ok but we can do a little crime in the name of Learning.
Trace to learn, not to earn.
I like to take my own photos, but you can study whatever you want. Link back to original photos, and don't post copied artwork unless the artist is dead, cool with it, or both.
As always with learning, start every sketch with the intent to throw it away (trash for paper, quitting without saving for digital) This takes the pressure off and lets you make Bad Art, which is very important.
So let's make Bad Art of a Deer because I happen to have one handy
Start with a photo of your subject in a nice/neutral pose with all four feet visible. (so not like me)
Freehand copy it. Try not to stylize, focusing instead of matching proportions and pose. Don't get too detailed!
It's ok if your art looks terrible and has broken legs. I've drawn LOTS of deer so I have a leg up. Everyone's art sucks in their own eyes and here's where mine went wrong:
Either lasso-distort (recommended for beginners) or redraw a copy of your first sketch with your reference behind it (scaled to match the main body of your sketch)
Put the original and modified sketches together and compare the differences. Write it down if you want. This shows you where your eyes saw things the wrong size, so you can correct for that next time.
After learning about both deer and yourself, try freehand copying again.
Marvel at your newfound knowledge and skill!
but there's always room for improvement
You can stop here and move on to your real drawing, Or do another freehand-fix-compare cycle. I actually overcorrected my "draws heads too big" and veered into "heads too small."
Another note on tracing: Learning HOW to trace is more important than anything you could learn By tracing. Draw the Anatomy, not the outline. In real life, things don't have outlines, they have bones.
These are from the same shoot which is extra useful for consistency. The lines are minimal and follow where the animals joints are, and only important parts are drawn.
You won't know what Important Parts means right off the bat, which is where in-depth study comes in. You need to do learn the hard parts to do the easy parts right.
Next up: how to study bones and muscles.
How to study Bones and Muscles
"Study the anatomy study the anatomy" but they never tell you HOW. It's not "read a book," It's more like flailing around wildly and crashing your browser from too many tabs.
This is going to be about How to Make a bones and muscle chart. Because even if your art sucks, you learn so much more by doing than by seeing.
References I gathered: X X X X X X X X
Get Set up. Get a photo, like above, but it doesn't have to be the same photo. And now... gather reference.
We'll start with bones. Search up "[animal] skeleton" and get photos or super scientific illustration. Add in things like "top view" to spice it up.
Next, search "[animal] skeleton sketchfab." This pulls up 3D models that you can rotate in your browser. Remember that these are art and the anatomy is only as good as the artist, so pick a good one.
Time for bone!
The spine is the most important, and in a lot of animals it will surprise you. Draw it in over your photo and then add spikes because skeletons are punk. These are not scientific and I didn't count them because their number doesn't matter to art. So you better be referencing from scientists and not me!
The rest of the bones and some notes. These are my notes to myself about things I want to remember. My personal discoveries in anatomy that made my art better. You can make the same notes but also make sure you have your own thoughts on there as well. that's how you help yourself the best. Be as detailed or vague as you want.
Same deal with muscle. Here are my personal notes to myself. Label stuff that is important to you. I actually grouped a bunch of muscles together based on what is visible from the outside. Muscles are way more complicated than this, but Baby's First Anatomy Chart gets to be simple.
This is good enough for me because I have intimate knowledge of the other muscles working under and over these ones. Feel free to add as many or as few muscles as you like. You chart your own course.
This is very VERY much not an anatomical chart. I'm sure there's nerds out there pulling their hair out looking at this. But listen, it works for art!
And you know the wildest part about this?
I don't need to look at it to use it. The act of making your own anatomy chart puts that knowledge in your brain. Like how you can make "cheat sheets" even for tests that don't allow them - the act of making the sheet helps you remember what you struggle with most.
And after all that complexity? Your simplification will be based on Real Knowledge and you'll put those random circles in the right spots.
Look at all this hard work you've done. Eventually this will be second nature to you.
Show me what you make! I'd love to see what creatures yall make anatomy charts of.
Do you have any recommendations on paper that's good for colored pencils? Brand and/or weight?
For scientific plates we use 140lb* hot press watercolor because the Hot Press gives you a decently-smooth-without-bieng-TOO-smooth surface, and the 140lb will stand up to repeated erasing, solvents, embossing and other rough techniques.
Buuuut basically anything over 140lb/225gsm with a comfortable amount of tooth will work fine. I personally like Strathmore, because a few years back the favored ink pens of the Denver Botanic Garden School of Illustration used stoped working correctly on paper, the department head (very politely) complained to the assorted paper companies, Strathmore sent a representative down to the gardens to do a zillion tests with the pens and the new papers to find out what the issue was, and gave us a shitload of free samples. Turned out the issue was with the ink (the pen manufacturer had made changes to the formula, then denied it to the department head's face) so Strathmore gave the department a shitload of free pens too. So I like them because they take customer input seriously, they make a good product, and they are easy to bum for free stuff.
*this does not mean the sheet paper weighs 140lbs. It means the whole REAM (500 sheets) is 140lbs. Also be aware there's "Student grade" and "Professional grade" in Strathmore's line. Student grade tends to be lighter and cheaper and for things like sketchbooks or notes or blotting pages it works fine but for finished/published work you'll want to use the higher-quality stuff.
Ok, I have an entrenched image of how big a ream of paper is, and Iām fascinated at the suggestion that thereās paper out there where 500 pages weighs what I did when I graduated high school. That there is a ream of paper that is a three-man lift. That one sheet of this paper outweighs the beef patty in my Whopper. I am enthralled.
:)
I've got 400lb Hot Press watercolor paper from Arches for the Victoria Waterlily project. It's almost as thick as the backing on the shelves I got at IKEA. Two sheets of this could probably stop a bullet. You can douse this sucker in a whole bottle of isopropyl alcohol and the sucker won't even buckle. You can get it in 4'x10' rolls, and I had to keep my 4'x4' cut between a dozen pieces of cardboard under the couch for 6 months to get the sucker to lie flat. 'Tis a BEAST.
Also, Arches makes great watercolor paper that works well for color pencil as well, just mind whether you want Hot Press (Smoother, more fine detail) or Cold Press (Rougher, holds more pigment) for your project.
But what are the dimensions of the pages in a ream (considering that 9 inches by 12 inches is a standard size, I image the original page is some even multiple of that)?
Thatās my first (and probably not last) art tutorial! And Steve, well, he does his best.
Ā Ohā¦Steveā¦
Metal tutorial
Fire tutorial
Art Tips | Line Weight
ā
Hello, I didnāt make it in time but I still wanted to share this short guide on applying varying line weight onto a drawing.
In my first year of art college, drawing class was like a treasure trove of new tips and knowledge which I looked forward to every week. I used to only draw either very lightly overall or with the same intensity and no variation in my lines.Ā
But one of the first things introduced to us in drawing class was how to vary our lines and mark making to capture light and shadow through just our line drawings. I never noticed the big difference it made to drawing only in a line with the same weight or which was uniform in pressure. I saw how it added more depth and fluidity to the character or subject making them less flat and stiff overall.
So ever since then I have tried to observe more and make thoughtful decisions of where I can play with the pressure of my lines while drawing.
Hope this is helpful! :)
-xz
Pointless LOTR headcanon of the day: Frodo & Merry both take after their mothers, meaning Frodo looks more like a Brandybuck than a Baggins and Merry looks more like a Took. This is a constant source of petty contention.
(Pippin meanwhile absolutely takes after his father & is the most Tookish looking)
Merry: call me a Took one more time
Gandalf: if it looks like a Took and acts like a Took itās a Took
Merry: I will END you
Gandalf is the only nonhobbit in the fellowship who understands the minutiae of Took Vs Brandybuck Vs Baggins rivalry & he delights in it, everyone else baffled
Frodo: look itās perfectly simple. The Brandybucks donāt like the Tooks because they play golf and think theyāre better than everyone because they occasionally go on adventures. The Tooks donāt like the Brandybucks because they live on the wrong side of the river and like boats. And nobody likes the Bagginses because theyāre annoying.
Aragorn: are you⦠Including yourself in that
Frodo: I said what I said.
Frodo: now the Bagginses donāt like the Brandybucks OR the Tooks because theyāre highly disrepectable but also richer than they are. And as far as a lot of the Bagginses are concerned Iām a Brandybuck because I grew up in Buckland and I have the Brandybuck Profile
Merry: which just means heās not pug-ugly
Frodo: quite.
Aragorn: this is all ridiculous. Keep going.
Gandalf: Hm now I wouldnāt say UGLY but⦠every Baggins Iāve ever met has been perfectly Round or perfectly Square⦠There is no middle ground.
Gimli, baffled: Frodo isnāt round OR square
Merry: thatās because he has the Brandybuck profile
Gimli: so⦠Is he a Brandybuckā¦
Merry: ABSOLUTE not
Frodo: slander!! Iām a Baggins how dare you
Pippin: was your father a Round Baggins or a Square Baggins
Frodo: my father⦠Was the ROUNDEST Baggins who ever lived⦠A perfect Sphere of hobbitā¦
frodo: my father was an absolute UNIT
Meanwhile Sam is sitting by the camp fire going: Donāt look at me, this is all gentlehobbit nonsense. My folks have sense
āwheezingā @north-peach
Aragorn: And Bilbo Baggins is�
Frodo: The hobbit who went on a year long journey with dwarven royalty to chase a dragon from a pile of shiny rocks.
Pippin: His Tookishness was so oppressed for over half his life, that when it finally overcame his Bagginsness it reached levels of Took never seen before.
Gimli: Bilbo Baggins??? The BURGLAR??Ā Ā
BLESS
*WHEEZING*.
historically, pixel art was rendered on limited hardware, there were strict limits on how many colours could be displayed on screen at once and in a single sprite.
These limits no longer exist, so you are no longer beholden to any of them. Despite what you might hear in certain pixel art spaces, there arenāt really any rules anymore, because thereās no technical limitations forcing you to work a specific way. You can make your pixel art have as many colours as you want, be whatever size you like, and have as many frames as you want it to.
However! the smaller you make a sprite, the harder things will become to read unless you shrink down the number of colours in equal measure.
In a photo you might have. i dunno. 1,000,000 pixels in it or something like that. Thats like a really small photo but thatās still so many pixels that you donāt really notice any of them individually. They all blend together into one big mass to tell you what youāre looking at in groups of hundreds!
On the other hand, in a 16x16 sprite youāll only have 256 of them. Every single individual pixel can have something to say!
But if every pixel is trying to say something at once, it muddies the sprite and makes it hard to read. However, if a group of pixels are all the same colour, theyāre all saying the same thing, and it becomes a lot easier to understand what youāre looking at.
like, for example, take a look at this 16x16 crop of a random photo.
does that look like a whole lot of nothing? yeah . theres 256 pixels, and theres 256 colours. the pixels arenāt really working together to tell you anything, so instead it just becomes one big vague mass. if i reduce the colour count to just 6 colours and increase the contrast, though,
it starts to look less like visual noise, and more like water at sunset!
The contrast is important - part of why you want to keep your colour count low is to make groups of pixels distinct from each other.
But, how exactly do you keep your colour count low, anyway?
a colour ramp refers to the gradient of colours in your palette that are used to shade one particular colour, such as tempests hair or her skin
instinctively youāre probably going to want to make individual gradients of colour for each of these things.
however, if you connect these ramps together, you can greatly reduce the number of colours youāre using in your piece. This also helps create a cohesive palette!
when it comes to connecting ramps, value matters much more than individual hues. you want to have a good range of values to have a readable sprite!
I think actually a really good example of value mattering more than hue in sprites, is this guide to anti aliasing by pixeljoint user ptoing
also just generally good advice, but take a look at this bit in particular
despite the wildly varying hues, they work together just fine. by focusing on the value when you combine your ramps, you can create some really interesting colour palettes!
anyway. now for some vaguer notes on how i do lighting
anyway thems just some thoughts for you all
hi i very much adore your art your faces always look so varied and lovely, do you have tips on not samefacing? its smth i try to keep in mind but its harder than it seems
Hi there! Thanks! This is by no means tutorial (since Iām more of theĀ ājust winging it and hoping for the bestā-sort) but I hope some of these tips help.
The biggest thing for me, personally, is what energy the head shape exudes.Ā
Think about the characterās shape language. Are they soft and round or hard and angular? Do they have a tall thin face, a squashed square one or a plump squishy one? Do their shapes make them look approachable or menacing? (not to say characters canāt look like and be two different things, but it helps readability to convey their general personality traits through shapes)
Much the same goes for the eyes. Think about the energy you want to portray here. Are the eyes alert/sly/sleepy/etc?Ā
Position of the eyes on the face is also important and can help either lengthening or shortening a face, depending on the energy youāre going for. This can also make your character seem either younger or older, as features on childrenās faces tend to be more squished together. Thereās of course a limit to how much you can push this if youāre aiming for realism, but the more cartoony, the more you can get away with.Ā
I think most of the same principles goes for the rest of the facial features tbh. Even on a āstandardā head shape you can get fairly different outcomes depending on the placement, shape and size of the eyes, eyebrows, nose and mouth.