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@mikekorman1
Returning to writing
Well, I Haven’t written for a really long time. Writing is something that I love doing. It’s a way of expressing myself that I find enjoyable and I also find that others enjoy reading. I don’t actually know if anyone will read this and I’m not bothered by this potential reality at all. I actually decided to write now because I want to write for myself. But there still feels like there’s an audience here or at least that there’s a chance that I might be writing now not just for myself but also for someone else to read.
I guess I can start by saying that living in Israel the last 4 years hasn’t been easy. In fact, on the whole it’s been hard. By default I am a happy person and find it relatively easy to be happy, to enjoy life and to impact on my surroundings for the better. In Israel I wouldn’t say that this has been my modus operandi. I’d say that I’ve fluctuated between this state and a place of struggling to come to terms with my decision to live in this country and whether or not I still feel that I can make a difference here.
I guess I would say that what really brought me to Israel was a passion, a dream. A hope that I could make a difference here. However small or big, a passion to bring this country to a better more together place. My dream was and is centred around the conflicts that exist here between peoples - mainly between Arab and Israeli but also between secular and religious Jews. I’ve always been fascinated by the conflict here and that fascination is intertwined with my feeling that I can make a difference on the conflict. I’ve always known what my strengths are - connecting with people, expressing love and interest in them, seeing them as a person regardless of their story. These are ‘skills’ that come naturally to me. I connect. I can empathise on a deep level. I can engage and make laugh and play and point to a different place that we could live in. These are attributes that are in my DNA. They are just part of my make up. It’s just what I do. And it was the ability to bring people closer together that got me so excited about moving here. Learning Arabic and learning the stories and traditions of Judaism (and Islam) were always things that I knew that I would focus on as they would help me relate deeper with the very people that I hoped to work with and connect to.
Now after 4 years of being here I can say that somewhere along the line I forgot why I came here. I lost touch with these burning reasons and preceeded to live my life as another Israeli.
I don’t say this with regret. One of the toughest things someone can do is to consciously uproot themselves from a country where they have a loving family, happy history, adoring friends and everything at their fingertips to a foreign land with a different language, no personal history, vastly different culture, no family, few friends and to remain on your feet.
Moving country is hard. Moving from Australia to Israel is hard. I don’t wish it on anyone. I wish it only for those people that have a driving passion, because without that I don’t think that you’ll survive the move - and that applies to myself.
So I spent the last four or so years just trying to find my feet. In the first year I finished off a Monash Law degree in Jerusalem and worked hard on wrapping up two businesses I had launched in Australia in the years before I left. I lived in a tiny caravan which was nothing more than a piece of shit. I spent many lonely hours there in front of a computer screen, writing essays or working on my businesses. Far from my Australian life and far from any community in Israel that had Australians within it that understood what I was going through. In the following year I moved to the far north of the country where my partner Lia was studying Social Work. I worked on and off in Agriculture, something that I found very difficult - mainly trimming grape vines for hours on end - and had to contend with an ever worsening set of stomach fatigue like symptoms which would often render me unable to finish a day of work from pure physical discomfort.
In my third year I got a break. I was offered a job as a grade 5 home room teacher and English teacher in an alternative primary school close to my home. An incredible opportunity. I said yes with open arms. Being a teacher in Israel is challenging in and of itself. But being a teacher with no experience behind you and with only a faint grasp of the language is an entirely different experience altogether. Although I had a lot of beautiful moments in that year it was largely filled with my coming home shell shocked after work and sitting with a coffee for 1-2 hours trying to process what the hell had just happened that day. Then, at around 6pm I would start working and trying to figure out how I could do a better job tomorrow. The kids were great, the staff wonderful and I tried my heart out, but it was hard.
My fourth year I moved up with the kids into Grade 6. My Hebrew had improved, I had a year of experience under my belt and I was generally more comfortable. I started going to therapy that year to try and help me with my stomach symptoms which had not disappeared and had become such a regular, common part of my life that at times I would just accept the fact that I couldn’t eat a growing list of foods without having a bout of serious fatigue or terribly uncomfortable bloating. The therapy taught me that my body was just trying to communicate to me. Throughout the year I learnt to be more authentic and true to myself. To be who I am more freely, say what I think and do what I believe is right. Slowly but surely the stomach symptoms subsided. I returned to living a relative normal life, physically speaking. The year at school was much less difficult, but not without its challenges of course. My social life outside of work was still untendered to. Lia had a gorgeous group of friends but I found myself in need of my own group of friends too, but I was too far away physically to stay in touch with my best mates in Israel (a small group of Aussies). Socialising has never been something that came easy to me in groups and for these four years I always found it a challenge because of the Hebrew. I often felt like I would sit there in silence unable to say what I was thinking - one because I’m shy sometimes and two because I didn’t have confidence with my Hebrew. What resulted is a very unsatisfactory social experience, even uncomfortable at times.
I finished the school year with great appreciation from the entire school community. It really is amazing that I managed to teach a group of primary school kids in Hebrew for two years. I learnt in that year to appreciate myself, not just appreciate others (which is something that I do very well, but often don’t do the same thing to myself).
Now I’m in my fifth year. I’m living in Rishpon near Tel Aviv. Studying a 2 month nature tour guiding course. Something that I wanted to do now for a very long time. Nature and the proximity and diversity of it in Israel is something that I always loved and connected to. It’s something that all my visions of Israel and how I can impact on her centre around - work with people in nature. So I’m happy to be doing this course. It’s teaching me about nature in Israel and every day I feel more connected with Israel as a result.
Yet despite this I still felt a sadness in my heart up until recently - and those stomach symptoms had somewhat returned. This is a sadness which I feel has been with me for a long time. An underlying sadness about life here. A resignation to just living out an existence that I could’ve lived out much more happily in Melbourne. So why here? Where has the passion gone? Where have I gone? What are you doing here anyway?
These questions filled my head and occupied most of my attention over the last month and a bit.
And now I feel I’m starting to remember the answers. I’m starting to remember why I’m here. It took two beautiful movies to help me realise these answers which were just lying within me and always will be. The Little Prince and Zootopia. Two animated films with simple and beautiful messages - don’t forget who you are and hold onto your dreams no matter how tough it may seem.
I know why I’m here.
I’m here to try and make a difference. I’m here because I love people. I love the people of Israel. I feel a closeness to them. I love Jewish people, religious and non religious. I love Arab people. I’m here because I want to try and form connections between Jews and their Arab brothers. To try and bring these two people’s closer together. There is so much suffering in this country. It is a land of great pain and sorrow. Of stress and anger. It is overwhelming and I can understand why for so many Israelis it just becomes too much to deal with and they either leave the country or just switch off from the overwhelmingly difficult political reality and their apparent lack of ability to do anything about it. This is something that I couldn’t understand before I moved here. Now after 4 years I do get it. But for me I cannot be another Israeli who is to be busy trying to pay the bills for the month and put food on the table that the political situation is just a problem that he has no time nor energy for. I don’t want to be another Israeli who lives in stress and anger and cuts people off the road or yells, or lives with a generous amount of lack of consideration. Yes, there are traits in Israelis that I would like to adopt and strengthen but there are many that I want nothing to do with as well.
I know why I’m here. I’m here because I believe in a different reality than the one that exists here. I’m here because I believe in people. I believe in the people of Israel. I believe in peace and the possibility that this country will become a more peaceful one. I love this country. I love its diversity, its challenges and its aliveness. It’s not easy here, in fact it is very difficult sometimes but I don’t want to shy away from this, I can’t. I am here to make a difference to this place. No matter how small. No matter what they tell me about what can and can’t be done. I’m here to be bold and outrageously loving and open and accepting.
Something that I understand now that I didn’t really understand before I came to Israel was that I am strong. And that it is OK to be strong. In the past I would shy away from stating my opinions afraid of what other’s might think of me or maybe how I would make other’s feel. Well now I say fuck it. I know what I think and I know who I am and I’m no longer going to remain in the shadows and live quietly. I will say what I think and I will love with the love and passion that I choose. I will be polite if that’s what I want and I will be trusting to all people that I want to be trusting towards. I will express my love to those that I feel love towards. And above all else, I will not forget why I came here. I came here to make a difference to this place. I came here because I have a vision in my heart for how people could relate to one another. And I’m here because I know that I have the ability to cause this change.
With my love, my kindness, my strength and my creativity.
I dearly hope that this next year is a year whereby I spend more and more time cultivating these reasons why I’m here. Where I’m more and more in touch with Mike, and who I am as a human being and what I want to bring to this remarkable place that I have chosen to call my home.
Amen.
Where is my voice?
I feel like something is missing from my life. I feel like I’m not the person that I’m meant to be? I feel like I’m all quiet and stay in the silence, in the shadows. I feel that I don’t say what I really want to say and don’t speak up about things that I think are wrong. I prefer pleasing others than ruffling feathers. But when I really consider it, I want to ruffle feathers. I want to speak up against wrongs. I want to be critical of those parts of the world that have become lost. I don’t want to go quietly into the night.
I am inspired by the greats of our times - Mandela, Gandhi, King - those that stood up for what they believed in and did so against the greatest of oppositions. But they didn’t relent. They stood up and were true to their voice.
My stomach hurts. My digestion is playing up. I get tired every evening at 5pm. I believe that it has very very little to do with sleep and with food. I have slept well and eaten well and had worse symptoms, just like I have eaten poorly and been under slept and had no symptoms.
I believe that it is to do with who I am being today. I believe it is to do with how freely I am letting my voice flow from my belly and through my mouth as words and through my body as actions. I feel a malfunction in my body. Like my true voice is being suppressed. And I am the suppressor.
I believe that our energy and strength is far more closely tied to how close we are to being ourselves than it is to how much we eat and sleep. I believe that when we are rooted in ourselves, in our voice, then we are bursting with energy, a vibrancy runs through us and makes us capable of things that the unconnected person thinks are extraordinary.
I want to be involved more in the world. I want to know the basic history of Israel. The basics of the three religions here. I want to know the basic geography of the place. I want to know what’s going on in the world today. I don’t want to be ignorant to it. I want to know news. I want to watch Ted talks. I want to learn Hebrew and Arabic and I want to be out there in the world. Moving around. Connecting, expressing, standing against and standing for. I want to know what the weekly parasha is. I want to be a part of today’s world and everything that is so brilliant about it and so terrible about it.
I have moved to Israel, not to be quiet and find my corner of peace. No. I have moved here to embrace the wildness of it all, the wilderness of it all. To immerse myself in what is happening here, so much a part of the centre of it all and so filled with so much. So much tension, so much emotion, so much baggage, so many wonderful people. So much aliveness.
Your tummy is calling to you. Open up, connect to it as you speak and move. Get out into the world, know what’s happening, comment on what’s happening. Get an opinion, which is really already there just waiting within, even now festering within, rotting....and cynicism and sarcasm have started coming out.
No I will not be like that. I have faith in the human being. I love people and the world. I believe that anything is possible. I will not suppress these thoughts any more because I am scared of being downtrodden. The only way to be downtrodden is to trod on yourself by not allowing yourself to say what you need to say. The moment I honour and value myself is the moment that I no longer will be downtrodden.
Facebook page
Just started a new Facebook page where I'm sharing a lot of my thoughts and passions. Here's the link to it -
https://www.facebook.com/mikekorman1
How Much Longer?
How much longer will I stay quiet for. How much longer will I remain silent. How much longer will I sit idly by and watch the world continue to create more conflict and more suffering for itself. No longer.
I was just walking on Herzliya beach. Freely, happily. People were swimming in the sea and enjoying the remarkably warm water. Others were running, the afternoon sun reflecting in the beads of sweat forming on their chest. Families sat together and relaxed. Old ladies talked and walked. Kids played. Yes kids played. And then I realised the absurdity of it all. The absurdity of the fact that less than 100km south form where all this was happening no one was on the beach. Why? Because they live in Gaza and if you go on the beach you face a risk. In fact if you go anywhere you face a risk. And it was then that I realised that until the children of Gaza can play freely on the beach just like the children of Israel can, there will be no peace, just the continued yearning of inequality.
This is not a piece of writing that sides with anyone. I am not pro Israel or anti Israel. I am not pro Palestinian or anti Palestinian. I am pro life. I am pro human. And many people might say that they are too. But actions speak the truth of what we think. To be pro life means that every human being is valued equally. There are no human beings that are more worthy than others. There are no children that have more of a right to play in the sand than others. I live in Israel and in that sense one could say that I am Israeli so I speak now as an Israeli and I say this - until we value the lives of the children of Gaza as much as we value the lives of our own children there will be no peace. Until equality comes into our perception there can be no peace, only conflict. Inequality is the breeding ground of conflict. Inequality is incorrect perception. Inequality is a failure to see what lies in every human being - essence, pureness, a life energy that we all share as human beings - equally.
How much longer will I sit idly by and listen to the same old opinions repeat themselves? The same old opinions that we have all heard year after year after year, conflict after conflict after conflict. How many soldiers have to die in order for these opinions to finally change? How many Palestinians have to die in order for us to take a look at ourselves and take responsibility for what is happening around us?
What opinions am I talking about? They are not hard to see. They are everywhere. But they all have one thing in common - they don’t see equality in all human beings. They side with one group of people over the other. There are a whole range of these opinions. We have a right to protect our civilians, if we weren’t occupying them then this wouldn’t happen, Arabs are the problem, they all want to kill us, they just can’t be trusted etc etc. I have read the Israeli advocacy articles and I have read the Palestinian responses. I have seen the always slanted media coverage (to one side or the other). We all have. This piece is not saying that these opinions are invalid or one is better than the other. I am not interested in that game. I am finished with it. I am interested in doing what I believe was meant when it said in a very old book “Israel is to be the light of the nations”. This statement speaks to me. It doesn’t say to me that Israel is better than other nations. No. It is not. It says to me that Israel has an opportunity to do something very brave, very extraordinary and very loving. And that is this - to value the lives of all human beings that live in this land…equally. To value the lives of Palestinians as much as the lives of Israelis. To work for an Israel where all human beings are allowed to live freely. This is being the light of the nations. In the political realm this is of course absurd. In the political world you take care of your own civilians and let other countries worry about theirs. But the Israel that I want to be a part of can do something that no other nation state has ever done - take care of other civilians too. Because at the moment the Gazan civilian population is suffering because they don’t have a leadership that cares about them. They have no one. And if that is not an recipe for rebellion then I have no idea what is.
I walked on the sand and I saw children play. I knew at that moment that all children just want to play on the sand. And all people want to be free to relax, to be with friends, to connect with nature and the world and to live a life without fear.
I am not interested in determining how responsible Israel is for the situation in Gaza and the West Bank. That is a worthless conversation and an unending debate. I am interested in facts. And they are this - civilians are suffering in Gaza and civilians are suffering in Israel. Israel has the power and the possibility to be more than just another nation state. It has the power to reach out to the civilians of Gaza and to work tirelessly on bringing them a life of dignity, a life of felt equality. This is the Israel that I want to be a part of. This is the Israel that I want to see in my life time. This is being a light unto the nations.
The Israeli Kidnapping: Everyone is suffering
Last Thursday 3 boys, 2 aged 16 and 1 aged 19, were kidnapped while attempting to catch a ride in the Gush Etzion area. Gush Etzion is in the West Bank, south of Jerusalem and consists of 22 Jewish settlements and 70,000 people. The incident has caused a public outcry and is occupying most news updates and the bulk of most newspapers' contents. I was reading an article yesterday about the suffering of the boys and the family and I was prompted to write something.
Everyone is suffering now. The boys are no doubt suffering, their parents are suffering, their friends are suffering, their community is too. The Israeli soldiers who have been called up to do house arrests in the middle of the night among hostile neighbourhoods and having to cause such angst and fear in the hearts of so many, they are also suffering. The families, the parents that know that their sons are now in the West Bank performing dangerous operations and not knowing if and when they will return, they are suffering too. The parents that will carry the lifelong scar of a lost child who has died while fighting for Israel, they are suffering. But in the representation of this all it seems that the suffering ends here. That it is only us, Jews, that are suffering. Our sight seems to only extend so far. But there is another side that is suffering too. The Palestinians are suffering.
The parents that don’t know if or when and at what hour of day or night Israeli soldiers will enter their house and one of their children will be taken. They are suffering. The parents whose children have already been taken and have heard nothing from them and have no idea when, if or in what condition they will return, they are suffering. The Palestinian families that are mourning the loss of loved ones due to the situation in recent times, they are suffering. The Palestinian people that live with the burden of restrictions such as the wall, the checkpoints, the need for permission to leave - they have been suffering for many years. And it is that very suffering that leads them to yearn for, to search for, ways to end their suffering, ways to get attention.
Israel is a place of great suffering but it is not one sided. Ironically, what Israelis share most with Palestinians is a shared suffering. I am not interested in getting into debates about who’s suffering is greater, who’s suffering is more justified, who’s suffering is caused by the other. I am not interested. I am merely interested in observing that we are all suffering here. Everyone is. And from that viewpoint compassion arises.
And from there we can ask ourselves - how much longer will we all suffer for?
Taking a new direction
I've really enjoyed writing over the last few months. I've decided that I want to continue writing and use this blog as a means to express my thoughts on life in general and on my life here in Israel. There is no shortage of things to talk about when you live in Israel. Plus, Israel seems to encompass so much of the diversity of life that we as human beings get to experience. It encompasses the joys, the passions, the loves, the highs and the lows, the deaths, the loss, the sadness. And it does so with a real passion. Nothing is diluted here in Israel. It is all real and raw. I want to explore that incredible rawness with you...
The real finish line
What is the finish line when you begin a walk across the country of Israel? Well the obvious answer is: the other end. And on one hand this is absolutely right. But for me there was a much more real finish line, a line that couldn't be drawn on a map. A line that only I would know when I had crossed it. I crossed that line a few days ago about 8km south of Tzfat in one of the most spectacular valleys in Israel - Nahal Amud. After coming back to She'ar Yashuv and reflecting on my time on the trail I realised that I had indeed finished. A part of me did want to continue but deeply I knew that I had finished. There is still many more KMs to walk on the Shvil and I plan to do these (hopefully with Lia) at some point in time. But for now I am done. I knew that I was finished because I had done what I had wanted to do all along - connect more with me and with the land. Both had been accomplished. My time walking had taught me many things. It had brought up a huge spectrum of emotions from joy and happiness to loneliness, fear and sadness. Ultimately I realised that I am not the person that is feeling these emotions. I am rather just an open space, aware of these emotions happening inside of it. The personal dimension has faded significantly. And as I walked this seemed to occur more and more. I feel at peace and at rest. Although a part of me (like an energy inside of me) wants to keep searching for answers and feels like it will never rest, I feel that I am at peace with that too and don't want to change that either.
The walk has grounded me more in my new life in Israel. I feel more a part of this country, I feel more strong here, I feel more right here. Walking the earth for me is the simplest and most powerful way to connect to where you are (and even better when you do so with minimalist sandals). I know I will return to the desert section - in colder times - because the desert represents a wild and raw beast and such a significant part of Israel. I will return when the time comes.
For now I move on with my life in Israel. Actually that's not entirely true. I start with a two week vacation in Italy with mum, dad, my sister (Dee) and her husband (Craig) and my nanna and poppa. I don't know if you still call it a vacation when you have nothing really strenuous or full on (i.e. work) to vacate. I feel that I have already been on holiday. So it is a holiday from a holiday! Afterwards I return and begin a summer ulpan (hebrew language course) in Herzliya for 6 weeks. Then I hope to be working at a primary school up north near where we live. Then at the end of October I will be beginning my tour guiding course Kinneret College. It's a two year course where I will learn a ginormous amount about this country. From religion, to history, archeology, politics, geography, economy, geology, flora, fauna, Israeli society and many more topics. By the end of the two years I will be a licenced tour guide. My aim is to start a business one day with specialised tours which explore the areas of Israel that I am most passionate about. The conflict, the stories of the many different peoples that live here, peace and what that means and how we can (and need to) contribute to it on an individual level (no matter whether we live here or not).
Thanks for reading my story from the Israel Trail. I know it might not have been the crazy adventure story that it promised to be. But it was real and a very special experience. Thanks for being a part of it!
9th June: A valley within the lowest valley on earth...HOT
The night was interrupted by people cheering as they played snooker and a premature rooster that was crowing at 2am (bit early young fella) and then at 4:15am the next door Thai workers who were making breakfast getting ready to work with bananas in the fields. I awoke at 4:45 feeling like I hadn’t really slept. I packed double the usual water amount (6 litres today) because the the walk through this stream is in a valley that is known to be very humid and I had no place to fill up water along the way. The stream itself is not running the whole length of the valley. It runs about 30% of the valley length and then tapers out to nothing. I was starting at the nothing part and working my way up the valley. It was mainly a climb over loose rocks and through thick weeds that left their mark on my exposed legs. I was in the valley by about 6am and was fresh. I had goosebumps. I thought - how nice to have goosebumps for a change. I walked till about 8am and stopped for breaky. It was already starting to heat up in the valley. The extra weight on my back (due to water) and probably the lack of sleep left my feeling lethargic and weak. Once it hit 9am it was a sauna. I was not even above sea level walking between two valley walls not more than 50 metres apart surrounded by shrubbery that was starting to heat up. The humidity was powerful and the heat was much more than I had expected. If the Jordan Valley is one of the hottest places in Israel (Temperatures can reach 50 degrees in summer) then this had to be one of the hottest parts of the valley because it was a mini valley. I was walking at my relaxed pace that I set yesterday and taking regular breaks in shade (of which there was plenty) but I still was finding it hard. By 9:30am I was thinking seriously about where I was going to have my big midday break. There was a main road up ahead but I didn’t know exactly how far. I was wishing that there was water flowing through the valley so that I could jump in and cool my hot body but there wasn’t. Just some muddy patches here and there. By 10am I got to the road and found a building site with some portable buildings/trailers, shade and cool water. I found the cool water and doused myself with it. I wasn’t feeling 100% but the cool water was great. I drenched my singlet under the tap and put it on soaking wet. That was a welcome change but after 15 minutes I was ready to do it again because it wasn’t cold anymore. As I sat down on a picnic bench in some shade by the buildings I realised again that I wasn’t feeling so well from this heat. It’s a strange thing to explain. The heat just creeps up on you and without really seeing it coming you just suddenly realise that you are not feeling so great. It’s not a strong feeling. I had no headaches, although I was nauseous. But it just kind of sits on you. Like your body is very hot and needs rest and cooling. I thought that I’d done everything right to keep my body good. I’d started at sunrise, rested along the way, gone slow, drank water but sometimes if it’s just too hot outside even all precautions can be futile. Especially when you are carrying a good weight on your back and walking (even slightly) uphill through a hot valley. In hindsight I needed to find shade at 9am, not 10am. But staying under trees in that valley as it heated up didn’t feel like a good idea at the time. There was no wind down there either. So I’m glad I came up to the road and found a fresh water source. But the last hour of walking was very hard. So there I sat debating what to do. Should I keep on walking after taking a long break or should I just call it a day and bow to the awesome power of the sun and the valley heat? The decision was relatively easy to make, just like it was in the desert. Listen to the body. Continuing alone through the valley with a heavy pack (filled with water) just didn’t sound like a good idea. Plus I wasn’t feeling so good in my body generally (a bit imbalanced) and I”m sure that wasn’t helping things either. So I made myself some lunch and slowly cooled down. I decided that it was time to get out of the heat and call it a day. A construction worker offered to drive me to the closest intersection and I hitched home from there. It took me only about 45 minutes, 2 rides. I am glad that I came home - which is a place called She’ar Yashuv which happens to be 1km from the end of the trail. When the body gets to that level of heat the last thing to do is to stay in the heat. All you want to do is to get cold - either through air conditioning or simply a cool shower and good breeze and shade. As I sat at the construction site I didn’t know whether I’d even continue walking the trail. I kind of thought that this was it. That my body is just not up to walking in this heat. I still hadn’t seen anyone walking in my direction on the trail. It seemed like it was just me. I was OK with the idea of not finishing the trail - even though I was about only 90km from the finish. Most important to me was to listen to my body and follow its lead. But now as I sit here at home with my body feeling a bit cooler and after a 2 hour afternoon nap I still feel like I want to continue - but just with a few changes. I plan to continue just doing day trips and try to finish off the trail that way. I plan to walk either from 4:45am-9am or 4pm-8pm or both. These slots are when the sun is not too strong. This way I can also go with a daypack which will help me get through the days. I feel this is a good approach. It’s not an ego thing of wanting to finish what I started or wanting to prove that I’m strong enough. It’s just that I still want to walk this country. I’m deeply enjoying the experience and feeling more and more connected to the country with every passing day. Tomorrow is a rest day though - or maybe I’ll do an afternoon walk - but definitely nothing in the morning. I am tired and washed out. Bed with Lia to snuggle with is calling:)
9th June Photos
8th June - View from Mt Arbel (what a ripper!)
View of the entire Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) from Mount Arbel
8th June: Gentle pace, gorgeous views and stout beer (Deganya - Ginosar)
Last Wednesday was tough. Heavy on the body. I really pushed it and I paid the price physically. I rested as planned and took a bus to Lia’s brother’s and his girlfriend’s - Chagit - at Deganya (where I got to last Wednesday). I planned to continue walking but to do so at a much slower pace and with no strict plan on where I need to get to, as well resting for at least 3 hours in the middle of the day - if not more. So I was out the door at 5am and walking at a relaxed pace on the trail. I walked on the west side of the Kinneret (sea of Gallilee) and ascended about 150 metres to walk along the ridge. I was treated to excellent sunset and Kinneret views. I rested for 5 minutes every hour. Just to sit in some shade, massage my feet and just rest. My body felt good. There was a nice breeze at the elevation that I was at so I found it all nice and refreshing. The sun was out but at these early hours it didn’t have that heat to it. Plus the weather was supposed to be a lot milder this week than it was last Wednesday. I walked in the direction of Tiberias (the biggest city that sits on the Kinneret). As I approached I walked through what is called Switzerland Forrest. It sits above Tiberias and is a project of the JNF (Jewish National Fund) funded by Switzerland. It’s central aim is to protect the residents in Tiberias from landslides as the soil erodes easily. Many trees were planted to shore up the soil and prevent further erosion. Anyway, there is also a whole lot of bee keeping going on in the area so as I approached the forrest to set up for my breakfast spot, I wasn’t alone. The moment I took out my food I was joined by some buzzing friends. Now I admit, I have a fear of bees. It is subsiding somewhat but I have an instant tensing of the body when bees are buzzing around. Now, generally I notice that bees are just curious creatures who come and check you out and then fly off. This is great and I can now handle bees buzzing around me. But these bees were different. They weren’t just curious, they were hungry. They didn’t leave. They just kept buzzing around and around and very quickly what started as a few turned into a whole stack of bees. So I packed up my things and changed places, to a different bench. In my head I thought that if I moved 100 metres away that the bees wouldn’t be there, or get there. I seemed to forget that they had wings. So I sat in my new place, got out my things again and was joined by at least 10 bees. By this stage I had already prepared my breakfast (oats, granola, cinnamon, banana and dates) and was hungry. And I wanted to rest in the shade. But I couldn’t sit there with the bees flying around my hand as I hold the cup that my breaky was sitting in. So I stood up, packed up again and walked and did a breakfast on the go. Like those people that drive to work and eat on the way, or sit on the train and eat. I was doing one of those. Breaky was very tasty, although I would’ve preferred it while sitting. Soon I got to Tiberias, found a petrol station to fill up water and use the loo. Typical Israel experience. I am in the toilet doing number 2. I get a knock at the door and a lady asks “someone in there”, “yes” I respond and then she says “how much longer will you be?” with an impatient tone. I say “I don’t know” and I hear I sigh from outside. Then I exit the loo and it turns out that it’s a staff member from the petrol station who wanted to do a quick clean of the toilet and was upset by the fact that she had to wait for a customer to finish. Don’t know if the vibe comes across in writing but it was typical impatient Israeliness. Which I think is kind of cute:) I continued on from there. It was almost 10am and I wanted to find shade soon. By the time I found a spot I liked it was already 11:30. It was getting hot but I was feeling good. I plonked myself down in shade on a bench and had a 30 minute nap and made lunch, coffee and practiced my hebrew words for the day. At 2:30 I was back on the trail and headed to Mount Arbel which sits about 400 metres higher than the kinneret. Amazing views (see snaps). From there I descended back into the Jordan Valley and went to the pub at Kibbutz Ginosar where a shvil angel was happy to host me (out the back of the pub on the grass). I made myself dinner (lentils and rice) and met the pub owner at around 8:30. We chatted and I drank a Murphy’s (stout beer from Ireland). I then met some of his mates and we chatted about Australian spiders (why do all Israelis love this topic?) and travelling. One of them pointed out a good spot for me to sleep tomorrow night. I was a bit tipsy and trotted off to bed at 10:45pm. Tomorrow the plan was to walk through the Ammud Stream - one of the highlights on the shvil.
June 8th Photos
4th June view - Before descending down into the Jordan Valley
4th June: 25km with a canine friend at too fast a pace on too hot a day (Gazit - Deganya)
Woke up, packed up and was out the door with 6 litres of water (more than usual) and some energy bars for breaky on the run. If I was going to do this distance before the hot hours (10am onwards) then I could barely afford to rest on the way. I left the house and was immediately greeted by an eager dog. I said hello and continued walking to the kibbutz exit and onto the trail. The dog came with me to the exit. Then as I slid under the fence the dog did too. Then as I walked another kilometre the dog did too. I figured he was going to turn back after a bit of time. I was wrong. The dog stayed with me the whole way - and it was a long way.
My feet were really sore. Walking was painful but I bolted at a solid pace trying to rack up the kms before the sun came. I walked and walked and walked barely resting. There was some cloud in the sky so the sun was blocked. But the temperature was still rising and I was pushing it. By 8:30 I'd walked for 4 hours with barely a break. I'd done about 16km which was a good pace but I still had a bit more to go and I was running out of good walking time. A wrong turn that cost me 40 minutes and led me up a steep hill didn't help and left me cursing myself for the next half an hour. By 9am I could see my destination - Kibbutz Deganya - but it was a 500 metre descent to get there. Deganya is one of the oldest (if not the oldest) kibbutz in Israel dating back to 1910. It also happens to be where Lia's brother Asher lives so I had a nice comfy place to stay when I arrived. The descent was very steep and I ended up running a lot of it to save time and I actually found it more natural than trying to hold up my walking speed. The dog was still with me and I decided that I had to at least try and take care of him so I gave him some water from what I had. I had drank all the time and was peeing regularly, clear which was good. But I was walking at a blistering pace with no rest and the temps must have been 35 by 10am as I was still descending. I pushed on knowing that I had no choice but to get out of the heat and into a cold place. The last hour was a struggle but we (dog and I) got to the kibbutz by 11am. Temps must have been hitting 40 at this point. Not walking conditions, especially not 25km at pace. For the last 2 hours of the walk the dog (who we'll call Sandy, not because it's his name but because I like the name and he had no name tag) was looking for shade every time he had a bit of distance on me. He'd just wait for me in the shade and then when I came passed he'd pop up and continue on. Was probably thinking "what are you doing in the sun mate?" Good sign to rest in shade when a dog is doing so. Anyway I came into the apartment, turned the air conditioning on and gave Sandy some water. He lay exhausted on the cold tiles. I sat on the couch feeling suprisingly ok.
I called up Giddy and told him the story about Sandy. We has a good laugh. He told me he knew whose dog it was and that the owner would be in touch. A few minutes later the owner called and seemed not so surprised with the story. He just said "yep, he just loves walking". An hour later he arrived in his car to take sandy home. What a companion. I was glad I had a mate for the walk. After Sandy left I started to feel progressively rubbish. Exhausted, finished. I ate some breakfast and fell asleep for 4 hours. I woke up feeling even more tired. Ate some rice and couldn't be bothered doing anything else. Fell asleep again from 6 till 8. Stayed awake till 12 and then was out till 8:30. Feeling marginally better this (following) morning. I was worried that I'd experienced some heat stroke again. Memories of that dark desert day came back. It certainly wasn't as intense this time but it did seem that the heat coupled with the long distance and the fast pace caused a bit of trauma to the body. I learnt another valuable lesson - don't walk if it's very hot. Don't even walk for a bit. Stay inside or relax by a water source. It might seem like I'm a slow learner. Maybe I am. But when you are in the middle of a hike it can be hard to tell just how your body is being affected. I've been told by people and it's certainly been true of my experience, that the real danger of heat stroke is that you don't really know that it's happening at the time. Often by the time you know it it can be too late and you may have already caused serious trauma to the body. I thought that this area is much better than the desert and that being our of the sun early would make it ok. But the Kinneret (sea of galilee, which is where Deganya is) is 210 metres below sea level and therefore one of the hottest places in Israel so when it's hot in Israel it's friggin hot at the Kinneret. And 25km is a long way by anyone's measure and doing so after 9:30/10am is just a heap of strain on the body. So I learnt my lesson and am resting up well. I'm calling Thursday, Friday and Saturday as days off and we'll see how I feel on Sunday. And if and when I do continue I will be going slower and with no rush to get to a certain point. Goals can be great but they can also put you in danger if they override sensibility. In my defense I really tried to think about it sensibly but there's something about this heat here that is all encompassing. It is summer now after all. I’m off to sleep:)
4th June Photos