The Audi Fashion Festival returns this year with an even bigger event, promising more hairspray, more glamour and more fashion.
Here's what you need to know.
Audi Fashion Festival happens from 15 to 19 May, 2013.
Instead of the usual (and perhaps, now synonymous) venue of Orchard Road, this year's festival will be located at Marina Promenade. Point to note: Blueprint, the annual tradeshow and shopping event that happens in conjunction with AFF, will be located right next to the tent this year.
This year's theme is "Creating The Future". The campaign is fronted by local supermodels Vivian Ong and Sheila Sim.
The opening show will go to Carolina Herrera (above), who has dressed the biggest names in the fashion and entertainment industry including Renée Zellweger and Nicole Kidman.
Hussein Chalayan (above) will be closing the festival this year. Personally, I am incredibly excited for his show, after his amazing and totally gif-worthy Fall 2013 show in Paris. Dresses that transform at a tug? Sign me up.
Victoria's Secret angel, Erin Heatheron (above), will walk the Raoul show.
The full line-up of shows will also include brands such as Tsumori Chisato, Mash-Up, Ashley Isham and Zardoze.
Perhaps the most exciting news: Azealia Banks will perform at the after-party.
For more information, look to http://audifashionfestival.com.
This happened around five or six years ago. Every day, I would sit down in front of my Macbook and start my day off with a daily visit to my favourite street style websites. It was sort of a routine for a young fashion student: Bill Cunningham’s New York Times feature, Sartorialist, Jak & Jil, Streetpeeper, Sea of Shoes and Fashion Toast. To me, these sites served more than just a documentation of what people were wearing; it was a showcase of creativity, of vibrancy and a reminder that fashion lived off the runway as much as it took place on it.
Fast forward all those years, today, street style websites have taken on such an evolved identity that it no longer as simple as finding pretty pictures to put up. It’s become somewhat of a beauty pageant: a parade of feathered-up girls backed by the marketing departments of the various brands, all clamouring to place their products onto that one shot that will go up on Style.com.
It seems to me today, and this might come off as a little presumptuous, but the only way a product should be seen for the most effective outreach is when it has been styled to resemble a real life photograph.
AdR and Ulyana Sergeenko in their usual outfits, nbd. Image by Streetfsn.
While I cannot speak for everyone, one of the allures of a street style photograph personally has always been that it bridges the gap between reality and fantasy. Anna dello Russo (above, left) is a real human, wearing real clothes and going to see a real show. And yet, decorated by gargantuan jewels and feathers and everything in between, her closet and clothes have become a fantasy for the admirers who gawk from afar.
A great street style shot has always been able to keep viewers on the side of reality, convincing them so easily that they too can go out and buy that McQueen mirrored visor. It showed a democratic power between the industry star and the everyday consumer: that you have the power to look fabulous too, if you can afford it.
Yet on the flipside, the same photo is able sell the consumer a fantasy. That they, too, can walk among the well heeled of the international industry with that new pair of Tom Ford gladiator heels.
The subject of street style has no longer been a simple fashion diary of the world, but it has grown into a veritable moneymaking machine for marketing, branding and design teams all over. Not to mention the amount of spin-off blogs covering street style.
Locally, a new Tumblr run by a shadow writer has been amassing a strong following of fans of the blog. Titled ‘What The Fuck You Wearing Today’, or WTFYWT for short, the blog chronicles the sartorial adventures of locals (presumably) who post photos of their outfits onto the web. These posts usually come with a snarky commentary – some hilariously written (and a guilty pleasure), others bother on the fence of homophobia, sexual discrimination and cyber bullying. Yet when you detach yourself from the outrage of finding your photo up there, you realize that WTFYWT is but one evolution from the street style idea-tree.
Now hear me out, I am not pro-homophobia or cyber bullying or discrimination. In fact, I loathe that just as much. Neither am I saying what WTFYWT is doing is faultless, and neither am I saying that the people on the blog are style-less people. But take an objective look at it, and you have to admit that there is some truth every now and then amidst the scorn and sarcasm.
Emmanuelle Alt, editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris, and person who spawned an army of fans clad skinny black jeans, fitted blazers and flimsy t-shirts. Image by JAK&JIL.
Through the constant bombarding of photos and idolization of these street style stars, it’s cultivated a sense of voyeuristic superstardom amongst the many groups of fashion tribes. From the rocker girl to the hipster boy, every group finds in itself a role model to emulate in dressing, through the imitation of his/her blog posts.
We have gone from self-expression, to following another person’s dressing for the sake of fan worship or fitting into what we perceive as the individual who embodies everything “fashion”. Often, in the case of the latter, so many fall short of the dressing standards and ideas that it’s no wonder WTFYWT has so much fodder from the street style community locally.
(See also: a hilarious parody on how to pose and function like a street style star for maximum coverage by The Cut)
"BFFs 4ever!" Image by Streetfsn.
This also beckons the question: how real is street style anymore?
In the past, brands have been known to gift celebrities merchandise that are likely to be photographed by the paps. This practice has since been adapted to include gifts to street style stars, each brand vying for a space in a pretty picture outside a show at fashion week. From there, advertising executives realized that this user-generated content has become a far more subtle way of selling a product than an outright advertisement campaign, where the consumer is aware that he/she is looking at an actual ad that is desperately selling them something.
Image by Tommy Ton for Oroton.
Just a while back, Oroton (above) engaged the street fashion photographer Tommy Ton (of Jak & Jil) and street style superstar Taylor Tomasi Hill to style and shoot their ad campaign? The result? A series of images featuring the bags and accessories of the brand, on models styled to look like that girl from your secondary school class who grew up to be a gorgeous fashion editor (remember: attainable reality meets fantasy lifestyle), lensed in a way that is both upclose and personal without being creepily voyeuristic.
Sometimes, when I look at the styling of a collection, I question if it will inspire the sidewalks, or if it has been inspired by the sidewalks. And as I write this commentary, I recall just being with a friend a few days ago who told me he was shooting a product feature for a local brand that was styled to look like everyday girls wearing fabulous clothing. Like it or not, pseudo-spontaneous street style photographs (I say 'pseudo' because, well, it's not spontaneous if it's staged) are here to stay.
Image by JAK&JIL.
Moving on, I dare not predict the future of street style, but I do not think it’s a ridiculous idea to say that street style will only get even more diversified, commercialized and saturated. Better watch what you’re wearing.
I did it. I survived queuing for an H&M collaborative collection.
The last few months have been just short of insane, so writing anything has been pretty much put on halt. However, as a true Singaporean, I was able to free up enough space amidst my burgeoning workload to queue overnight for the launch of the Maison Martin Margiela collection, which was done in collaboration with fast-fashion giant, H&M. True, the crowd that turned out was not as big as the previous collaborations like Marni and Versace, but it was still substantial enough to send the hot ticket items into the "Sold Out" category within minutes. And it was my first time doing this.
This is my diary, and some tips on surviving the next one.
What to pack:
I stuck to the basics necessities, and then some. A plastic mat or groundsheet is essential, perhaps because our precious behinds cannot touch the dirty granite floors (this changes later, more in a bit). I also packed my phone charger, a bottle of water, a pillow, an eyepatch for sleeping and a foldable chair (order yours from here).
Seeing as how my patience level can be infamously low when I'm in a crowded area, I loaded a bunch of movies into my phone and packed a book in as well. Needless to say, I made sure my credit cards and some cash were stuffed into my wallet before leaving my house (shoot yourself if you forget your cash/cards, because what point is there, really).
We also packed our toiletries (particularly facial wash and toothbrushes) as well as some medication like Panadol. Finally, my friend and I brought our sleeping bags just in case we were intending to get any sleep at all. It's not a must, but a plus to have.
What to wear:
Two words: Comfortable and easy. There really is no point in wearing an amazing outfit to queue because, frankly, who cares? The birds in the trees are not going to stop you for a photo with your Givenchy t-shirt at 2am in the morning. Plus, the humidity ensures you're always perspiring, and reeking ain't cool. True story.
Also a true story, please don't wear an item from a previous collaboration - say, Marni x H&M - to queue for the upcoming collection. You'll end up looking silly.
I recommend bringing a jacket just in case. Oh, and sunglasses for when you exit the store in the morning and want to hide your eyebags from the crowds. Flip flops or covered shoes are your preference, as long as you can run in them.
The Diary:
5.10pm - After running by the office to print out the catalogue of items on sale, as well as to pick up my cushion, I managed to find a spot in the queue with my friend. We were Persons #42 & #43, or there abouts. The first person in line already had his tent out, since he was there by 10am. Now, the wait begins!
5.50pm - To help keep us dry, H&M gave out free umbrellas for everyone in line. The tagline says "Straight From Fashion Heaven". For some reason, Anna dello Russo's Fashion Shower starts playing in my head. Straight From Fashion Hell.
6.30pm - Knees are feeling sore from sitting for too long. First coffee run to Starbucks. I remembered thinking to myself, "Oh lordy, how am I going to survive this?"
8.00pm - The H&M staff are coming around with packets of chocolate croissants from Paris Baguette. Very impressive, I must say. Now, if only the NDP team would consider meeting the standard marks of H&M's goodie packs.
8.30pm - Now, they're giving out drawstring bags, but I'm too fidgety to explore its contents. My friend and I go for our 152738th stroll up and down the Orchard Building perimeter. We squeeze ourselves back into the line and begin chatting. Lesson: Make friends in the queue. Chatting really does help time pass by a little faster.
8.45pm - Guards are beginning to patrol. This means 15-minute toilet breaks, no more cutting of queues for your friends, and the beginning of that feeling as if you're a refugee.
9.15pm - My hunger is getting the better of me. Off to Burger King for some air conditioning and calories.
10.25pm - Finally rummaging through my survival pack. The folks of H&M provided us with neck cushions and eyepatches. What's commendable is that these goodies aren't the cheesy type you get from airlines. The cushion-patch set is made out of a very stylish Prince Of Wales checkered wool on one side, and luminous orange nylon on the other. Other items include a bottle of water and a copy of the in-house magazine/ catalogue.
11.10pm - My friend, our newly-made friends and I are doing either one of these things at any point in time: looking through the catalogue that I printed and are engaged in passionate discussions of whether the duvet coat is worth the $500 price tag, sleeping in a position that looks reminiscent of yoga, cam-whoring for Instagram, calculating the estimated credit damage, bitching.
12.20am - There are only so many times a person can watch "Love Actually" without feeling bored and restless. This is not one of those times.
12.55am - There are only so many times a person can watch "The Devil Wears Prada" without feeling bored and restless. This is not one of those times.
1.20am - An excited buzz is happening in the crowd as staff begin unpacking and hanging the Margiela clothes onto the racks. My friend and I round by the front to check out the arrangement of items and begin pointing out what we want. The tiredness is temporarily substituted by excitement of seeing these pieces first-hand and ready for purchase.
1.45am - After removing my face, which was pressed up against the glass doors, we decided to rebel against the guards and not return to our spots in the queue. Instead we chose to sit outside the store, where it was a lot cooler and smelled less of sweaty bodies. Turns out that the guards didn't quite care about our new seating arrangements. Also, we learnt that at 1.45am, we didn't care that our butts were not protected from the dirt by a ground sheet as long as we got to enjoy the cool of the granite floor.
4.05am - Sitting became reclining, which became lying down. We were lying down on the floor, in the middle of Orchard Road, at 4.05am in the morning.
4.35am - Weird woman comes up to us to try and curry favour with us so that she can ask us to help her get a pair of the trompe l'oeil sneakers. Join the queue, woman.
5.25am - Oh my god, H&M is bringing out the candy clutches to display. I can almost taste the chaos. At this point, sleeping is out of the question since tagging should be any minute now. Also, sleeping increases the chances of lethargy later when your body begins to crave more sleep. Kinda like taking a nap and lazing around after.
6.05am - H&M corporate staff begin showing up, and the store staff are coming out with specially designed MMM aprons, handing out brownies and bottles of water. Is it just me, or did they get their extra-good looking staff to come out for this?
6.15am - A commotion breaks out in the queue between people who successfully cut the queue versus people who tried to bribe other people to allow them to jump the queue but failed. The latter was so obnoxious, I found myself siding the party who successfully cut the queue, ironically.
6.35am - Sunlight starts to break. We're almost there!
6.45am - The announcement is made that the tags are being handed out. Salvation! This means toilet break, breakfast and stretching of legs! I got tagged for the second batch of 30 people. A very promising sign.
Pretty much how we've looked like all night. Yep.
7.05am - Mandarin Gallery's toilets never looked like it was a homeless-person quarters until now. Groups of us with our backpacks are washing our faces over the sinks and running for the toilets. We managed to squeeze a quick trip to Macdonalds for some food and drink before we headed back to the store to wait for our time slot.
7.30am - Gathering back outside, I spot a few industry insiders who made special effort to wake up early and come by to witness the mayhem. My head is hung towards the side, as I try to keep my eyes open.
8.00am - The first batch is let in, but they don't start till 8.05am. They are blasting music at ridiculous decibel levels and I cannot hear anything else but the sound of adrenaline pumping in my head.
8.05am - LET THE HUNGER GAMES BEGIN. The dash for the candy clutches was as expected: mad.
8.14am - We are standing behind the barricade, waiting to join the madness. We begin counting the first batch down, and start 'drunk-dancing' to David Guetta's Titanium because we are that tired and delirious.
8.16am - I am talking with the store staff, asking them where each item is placed and planning the route out in my head.
8.19am - One more minute. Eyes on the prize...eyes on the prize.
8.20am - NOW! A shop assistant is pushed out of the way because he absent-mindedly stood in front of the candy clutches. The next 10 minutes have become a blur, apart from vivid flashes of memory where I'm hollering at staff above the music to ask them to help me grab other things.
8.27am - My to-buy list is complete! With three minutes to spare, I head over to the changing room to try things on before it gets congested.
8.50am - Total damage at the counter: $757.50. Extra paperbags, hangers and garment bags: Free.
9.30am - Stepping out onto crowds of curious onlookers, with some people stopping me for a photo because "I was one of those crazy-ass people who bothered to queue". But whatever, I survived!
10.15am - Homeward bound! The cab ride headed to our various houses is a silent one, but we all know the joy we have inside from living to tell the tale of one night in the queue of an H&M collaboration. We came, we shopped, we conquered.
Click here for a video interview I did with styleXstyle.com, a new local portal for all things and lovers of fashion.
Lessons Learnt:
Bring a friend. Solidarity is what's going to get you through the night. Also, it helps with the "1 piece per person" quota, in case you wanna buy the same item twice.
Make friends in the queue as well. It really helps in so many ways. Misery - also known as "sitting on hard floor for hours on end in the humid still night" - loves company.
Plan out the items you want to get. It helps to have a game plan.
Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate. Nothing keeps your energy up like water.
Bring your phone charger. There is a wall plug at one of the pillars of the building, so if it is not already occupied, use it to power up your phone again. You'll need to for when you lose your friend in the frenzy or calling for a cab to whisk you home.
Before your batch is let loose on the shop floor, stand inside the barricaded area to scan the item locations. Also, chat with the staff. They will be more than happy to tell you where each item is located.
When it is your turn to shop, aim for the items that have size requirements first, such as dresses and shoes. If sizes run out, you may lose out on your desired item.
Meanwhile, ask the staff to help you. Tell them what you want in what colour and size, and they can help you run to get it as well. Use them to help you fetch accessories, if you're busy grabbing sized items.
Don't try anything on while shopping. You have time for that after your time slot runs out. Just focus on grabbing everything you can.
If in doubt, buy it first. You have two days to consider and get a full refund from the time of purchase, so keep the receipt intact too.
P.S. A big thank you and lots of love to the entire H&M crew. The cheerful smiles, helpful hands and encouragement given by the staff, coupled with the goodies they dished out, certainly helped to round off this experience with a nice touch.
Cover and outfit images by H&M. Hunger Games screenshot from hungergamesmovie.org. Homeless people photo from fsc.yorku.ca.
Firstly, this is a very overdue post, for which I'm sure the PR fairies would like to kill me for. Been so overwhelmed with work, that I've been passing out the minute I get home everyday for the last month or so. But nonetheless, the show - or in this case, my site - must soldier on! So let me share with you a project I did with Zalora and Blackberry earlier this month.
It started out with a call from Zalora, asking me if I wanted to do a shoot for a campaign that they were doing with Blackberry. Titled "Fashionably Bold", the concept was to engage four bloggers (I hate that term, but we'll stick to it for easy reference) to style up eight winners for a photo shoot and a runway show. The winners were picked from a contest run by Blackberry to pick their most stylish and best looking users.
For the shoot, I styled a casual and evening look for both my male and female contest winners. This was quite a refreshing challenge because I've been so accustomed to styling models, that I had to rule out a lot of whacky things when I styled these two off-the-street folks. The brief was simple: create outfits from Zalora's library of clothes with the theme of "Fashionably Bold" individuals.
For my casual looks, I immediately knew the look I was going for. I wanted to channel the vibe of the show-goers at Fashion Week: part casual, part nonchalant, all wrapped up in a glamourous selection of accessories. I paired a striped top with a cropped sleeve for the female with a pair of clingwrap-like skinny pants from Vila and snakeskin heels from Spurr for the day casual look. For the male's look, I took a couple of basics from SUNDAYS and layered it for a casual play on proportions.
See, the thing about the word "casual" that I hate is that people take it as an excuse to not dress up. People, you've been taught the wrong thing! Casual, to me, means presentable but with clothes that are functional enough for the day's activities. This doesn't mean you should skimp out on styling and accessories. (Perhaps I should take this chance to thank Zalora for putting about $1,000 worth of CC Skye accessories at risk for my magpie styling tendencies!)
The evening look was a bit more difficult for me, because frankly, I always dress like I'm out for the evening even when I'm out running errands at high noon. I started with the idea that this "fashionably bold" couple needed clothes that were presentable without being restrictive. It had to be stylish clothes, reflective of a person who has a classy taste in not just fashion, but in the lifestyle choices that he/she makes. For the female look, I stuck by a style mantra I have: Pair a classic little black dress with a pair of showstopping heels. A FrüFrü & Tigerlily dress did the trick when I paired it with a pair of glittery gold heels from STUDIOTANGS and more CC Skye bling.
The male look was a little trickier, but I managed to pull together a look that I was happy with. I took a woman's striped top (a little more on that later) and paired it with a blazer and some dark blue slacks. I know, it's a little eyebrow-raising that I use women's pieces for a guy. But here's the deal: there are some rules that can be broken. That's the beauty of fashion! If the fit feels right and the look works, who cares if it's a male or female piece. This is not cross-dressing, it's being able to see the potential for a piece to work out of it's given purpose. Just for the record, everyone was surprised that the shirt accentuated my male model's chest a lot.
Okay, commercial break time! Here's a footage of what happened behind the scenes, and the final shots for my casual and evening looks.
The launch of the campaign was held on 18th of October at 72-13. Along with my fellow blogger-stylists, Vanessa, Sophie and Irene, we watched as our eight contest winners walk the runway in front of a live audience that was cheorographed and coached by Ms Universe Singapore 2011, Valerie Lee. I wore a fantastic Joe Chia top for the night, which got many people asking how they can own a piece too.
As part of our work, Blackberry was kind enough to gift each of us a Blackberry Bold 9790 in white for our use. Before I begin to describe the phone, I was a Bold 9000 user. Blackberry customers will remember that as the last model with a trackball system. This new model was a serious 21st century update for me, with it's incredible touch screen and trackpad command system. Top that off with a hi-res display and the legendary push mail function that we email addicts adore Blackberry for, I haven't been more pleased to be using a Blackberry than I am now. Evidence: refer to the first photo of this post!
Finally, I have been given a page on Zalora to share my styling tips, so do click here for the female selection and here for the male looks.
Thanks Blackberry & Zalora for the experience!
Streetstyle images by STREETFSN. Bloggers' and group images by Irene of Moonberry.
GIVEAWAY: Tickets to watch the Future Fashion Now S/S '13 Shows
Stand a chance to win tickets to watch the Future Fashion Now Spring/Summer '13 showcase in Singapore this October!
Fresh from their showing at Paris Fashion Week, Future Fashion Now will be holding a day of fashion shows to present the Spring/ Summer 2013 collections of 11 regional and international designers. Held on 17 October 2012, the shows will take place in the space of Workshop Element at Wisma Atria.
Elohim by Sabrina Goh, Saturday, Ong Shunmugam, Mae Pang, Evenodd and Dzojchen will be representing the home team in the lineup. Malaysian designer Khoon Hooi, Jonathan Liang from Paris, Saena and Esther Perbandt from Berlin and Juma from New York will also be showing their collections.
Now, here's your chance to win a pair of tickets to watch the shows! I am giving away two pairs of tickets to two lucky readers. All you have to do is follow the simple steps below, and you'll be added to the running!
Each winner will receive a pair of tickets to catch one of the two lineups: The 6pm show, which features Ong Shunmugam, Elohim by Sabrina Goh, Esther Perbandt and Khoon Hui (top row); or the 7.30pm show, where Saena, Saturday, Juma and Jonathan Liang (bottom row) will be showing.
Here's what you have to do to be in the draw:
Head over to the "Model, Schmodel" Facebook page, and like the page.
Share the Facebook post (link here) on your wall, with a short description of your favourite designer and why you like the brand.
Get creative with your posts, and remember, you have to like the Facebook page and share the picture to make it count! Oh, one more thing, please make sure the privacy of your post is changed, so I can see your post on your wall!
The more likes you get on the post, the extra brownie points!
Simple right? Just remember to do it before the closing date, on 15 October 2012, Monday, 9pm. Winners will be notified via Facebook.
If there ever was a brand that could be touted as a true representation of Singapore’s cultures and society, that brand could just be Ong Shunmugam. Founded by Priscilla Shunmugam in 2010, the brand – nearing its second birthday – has captured accolades aplenty for its sensible aesthetics that meld tradition with fit and modernity.
Just like the city the brand is based in, Ong Shunmugam offers a refreshing dose of wit by interpreting seemingly musty traditions into designs that are as relevant now as they were in the 40’s. Subversively modern, yet respectful of cultural roots, Shunmugam’s boldness in experimenting with historical elements makes up just one part of her winning formula. The other part is the designer herself.
On an overcast Saturday, we meet up with Shunmugam at her workspace, which doubles up as her boutique. As our team packed into the cosy area, we are instantly invited to sneak peeks into Shunmugam’s mind. Lining one wall are wood-framed sepia-toned photographs hung over a traditional sewing table. Her couch, though reminiscent of old Victorian salon chairs, is rendered with minimalist details and covered in black. On her coffee table, you will find canned drinks featuring nostalgic artwork of 70’s and a comically-large pair of scissors. Everything in this space reflects who Shunmugam is – quietly insulated from the bustling city outside, but never losing its touch of the progressive nature of time.
Thinking Designs For Thinking Women
“Old fashioned”, was what Shunmugam replied with a smirk, when I asked how she would describe her brand. “Ong Shumugam is a blend of old and new. It straddles between the past, and what the future would want to wear.”
I would readily admit that belonging to a generation dominated by iPhones and fast food, the idea of traditional wear has never appealed to me as a form of fashionable wear. Cheongsams, or anything with a hint of traditional, were strictly reserved for Chinese New Year dinners, Racial Harmony dress-up days in school and for that wedding of that distant cousin whom you never knew you had. However, after those twenty-odd minutes that we spent in her shop, I can now safely say that I am a convert.
Shunmugam’s ethos to working with traditional art forms and cultural costume references is simple: create pieces that women of all ages can take out at any day of their lives and tell stories to their descendants of the adventures they had while dressed in a “Ong Shunmugam” creation. Unlike the rest of the fashion crowd that sees the Asian influence as a mere trend and fad, Shunmugam understands that the Asian influence is more than just riding on the wave of fame that Asian designers are experiencing in Western countries now. Instead, she has developed an uncompromising respect for these influences and takes great lengths to research on various traditional techniques of different eras, even before she hits the sketchbooks.
“Asian fashion is considered a burden sometimes. People wonder why I have chosen to focus on things of the past when contemporary fashion is moving in the other direction”, Shunmugam says. “But I’m creating an Asian brand for Asians. It’s not about being cool or exotic, but it really is an authentic and organic process.”
After a short pause, she continues, “In 50 years from now, what would you have left that you can proudly show your grandchildren? A jacket from H&M? Or a piece of clothing that is characteristic of the rich history of Asian culture?”
It becomes clear to me that Shunmugam is not throwing fancy sentences around - she is a designer who takes her time to deconstruct a brand and build it up from the basics. There is a process behind each design; a process that is both cerebral and thorough in understanding the intrinsic qualities of Asian culture, which she pours back into the brand.
Learning Journeys
For Shunmugam, her path did not start out in fashion. Though formally trained in law, she knew that it was a profession that she had no desire to build a career out of. Then, inspiration hit.
“It was like someone had switched the light bulb on”, she says, recounting how she first began by taking dressmaking classes while based in England. There, she realized she had a knack of sewing and this inspired her to pursue a course on patternmaking. “For me, if I was told that my sewing wasn’t good enough, I wouldn’t grunt like most people would. I would just unstitch it, and redid the whole thing again.”
With her diligence and analytical skills, for which she credits to all those years of formal law education, Shunmugam began to garner support from within the local fashion industry. Editors quietly watched as she began building her customer base, while tradeshows provided her with the exposure to a global market, which was looking for a brand that could interpret Asian fashion as well as Ong Shunmugam could.
“In the creative field, there are some things that can’t be taught. You take what you get and you run with it”, says Shunmugam.
Still, certain things cannot be schooled in, like forecasting a trend for example. In Shunmugam’s case, it should be even tougher for her to feel current in a trend-conscious world. The designer admits that she “never buys fashion magazines unless there’s a feature on the brand, never attends the parties or goes out much” and that she could perhaps very well be the “most unfashionable fashion designer”. This makes one wonder, how can could someone be so drawn away from current fashion but yet hit so many trends right on the nail? Her Fall/ Winter ’12 collection, for example, featured currently prominent trends of brocade peplums and baroque floral prints. “It’s intuitive.” she shrugged.
“Were you ever afraid?” I asked at one point in our conversation, for I assumed that certainly she must have been. Imagine spending many years studying and focusing on one profession, then making a complete change to work in an industry that is as alien to her as the people are. Just picture a young lady with nothing more than a pocketful of burning passion for what she loves and the willingness to forgo her usual comforts to afford fancier fabrics - that was exactly what Shunmugam had to go through. So certainly, there must have been some level of doubt or fear at some point in her career. But as always, Shunmugam’s reply was more than what I had expected.
“I never doubted myself”, she says with a firm conviction in her voice, “I was nervous, but I knew that since I have made a decision, I was going to see it all the way through.” She continues, “There were times when I didn’t have anything in my (bank) account. I didn’t even have money to get a decent haircut because once money came in, I took it out to buy fabrics immediately.”
Prior to ending our conversation, I asked what would be the one piece of advice she would give to anyone who has a dream, but is uncertain if they should pursue it till the end. Shunmugam takes a moment to ponder, and you could almost see it in her eyes – how she reflects on her own journey that has yielded sweet success. Her designs were just shown on the runways of Paris Fashion Week as part of the Future Fashion Now showcase. After seemingly condensing the important lessons that life has given to her all these years, Shunmugam offers this one advice: “You have to hit the bottom first, before you go up.”
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Get ready to shop Ong Shunmugam S/S 2013 at www.futurefashionnow.com!
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Then I want to hear from you! Model, Schmodel will be involved in a few projects coming up in October and November, and I want you to be a part of it!
Email [email protected] with your CV, and a portfolio or writing samples. Include your name, contact details, previous work experience and how you would like to contribue. Please title your email with "Contribution Application for Model, Schmodel: ___________" and fill in the blank with the position you're interested in.
FEATURE: 20:TWOTHREE F/W '12 - OF LONGING AND BELONGING
20:TWOTHREE, a local label started by Jamie and Genevieve, presented their Fall '12 collection for the first time at a collective viewing held by Parco Millennia Walk on 8 September.
The idea of the collection stemmed from a discourse on what comfort meant to the designers. They took inspiration from the concept of a home, and of sanctuary. Genevieve explained to me that as humans, we feel comfort and calmest when we're in the surroundings of our home. In that way, the brand based their collection around the idea that the clothing this season should reflect that as well: comfortable and familiar.
While the label is still very new, I was very impressed by the concept that they chose for their Fall '12 collection. The nature of their inspiration could have proven to be very tricky, due to the brevity of thought that the concept would require to best represent it. However, I was pleasantly surprised by how much these young designers could form out of their inspiration. I realised that it was not about big words and pompous-sounding ideas; no, these girls have got a formula to their brand that is working for them.
Let's talk about the clothes. There was a right balance of insouciance and minimalist construction in the pieces. Made up mostly of separates, the product mix (albeit a little small for a second collection) was well curated to create an urban wardrobe filled with practical pieces that work as well as they look. A skirt with pleats running down the back could work so well with a pair of towering pumps as it could with a pair of scruffed-up boots. Elsewhere, there was a coat made in ash grey with layers of curved flaps behind, which I really liked and would get for myself.
Overall, I think this brand is one of the favourites in the current batch of Parco nextNEXT designers. For where the concepts are a potential minefield for more experienced designers, the duo has successfully navigated around each seasonal theme with enough serenity and sureness to achieve a winning look. At the end of the day, you will find that the beauty of 20:TWOTHREE's pieces lie in their subtle gracefulness, workmanship.
DIARY: Zouk Wardrobe 2012 presents Blackmarket feat. Joe Chia and AMEN
Since 1999, Zouk's Wardrobe series has aimed to push budding talents of the local fashion industry out into the spotlights and eyesights of club kids and tastemakers alike. This year, local cult boutique Blackmarket was invited to showcase two brands from their stable of designers, Joe Chia and Amen.
I was asked to choreograph the show, and this is my diary.
9 August 2012, Thursday.
Sat down for the first of many production meetings to take place with the Blackmarket team. When I was showed Joe Chia's collection, I immediately knew I wanted a mix of professional models with a cast of faces off the streets. I wanted spunky looking individuals who were eye-catching and unorthodox to the generic look of a model. After some persuasion, I managed to negotiate for five spots in the show for the street models.
Right after the show, I met a guy named Bealson. I knew he would fit into the show well. He was tall, slightly awkward, but that only contributed to the "un-model" likeness of his demeanour. I gave him my card, and asked that he think about walking for the show.
11 August 2012, Saturday.
I began walking around the streets of Orchard to look for the faces I wanted to see in the show. After some two hours or so, I met a girl who was working at Leftfoot, and I knew I had to ask her to walk. Pixie-like features contrasted by a fully shaven head and an arm of tattoos, Sheila was exactly the type of face I was looking for. Beautiful in an unconventional manner. Throughout the day, I walked from Bugis down to Far East Plaza, and back up to Dhoby Ghaut. I handed out casting notices to some 20 odd people who I wanted to cast for the show. It was an exhausting day.
18 August 2012, Saturday.
We had our casting session today. Clinton, one half of the design duo behind Amen, was also on-hand for the casting. It was fruitful, and I was able to identify my five faces that I wanted to walk in the show, along the professional models. I was very happy when Sheila came in. Casting her was a no-brainer, I knew what I wanted her to do for the show right away: walk as the closing model.
28 August 2012, Tuesday.
We had a mild heart attack when a professional model we booked pulled out from the show at the last minute. So prior to the fitting that was to happen that night, we had a bunch of girls come by the shop for a casting.
The fittings were manic. Clothes were hanging everywhere, shoes strewn all over the shop floor. Yet despite all the confusion, we got everyone fitted and all the looks tagged within an hour and a half. The cleaning up of the place, however, took a good hour and a half too. In a few hours, it would be show day.
FIVE THINGS: NABIL ALIFFI, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF VULTURE MAGAZINE
Aliffi, on set, for a spread in Vulture Magazine.
Nabil Aliffi
21 years old
Editor-in-Chief, Vulture Magazine
On faces to watch
"Just off the top of my head; Elza Luijendijk, Maria Piovesan, Vanessa Axente, Franzi Mueller and Anniek Kortleve, who has come a long way since our days of sharing microwaved meals in Paris when I was interning there. She’s now one of the faces of the Balenciaga campaign for FW’12, shot by Steven Meisel. Locally, I hear that Vivian Ong is making waves. She’s great!"
On aural pleasures
"There are so many to choose from! It’s between Kishi Bashi’s 151a, Perfume Genius or Nils Frahm. And James Blake’s cover of ‘A Case of You’ by Joni Mitchell."
On his go-to beauty product
"I just recently received this SKII moisturizing cleanser for men, and it’s really good!"
On a good book to read
"My favourite piece of literature is ‘Waiting for Godot’ by Samuel Beckett but right now I’m reading ‘Mulata’ by Miguel Angel Asturias. It’s supposed to flip my world upside down."
On a getaway destination that everyone needs to visit
"Tromsø in Norway, to see the Northern Lights."
About a month or so ago, I started noticing a new name coming up on the pages of my social mediums. Vulture - a name that is arresting, yet reveals nothing about the nature of the content and ideas behind it.
It was not until I spoke with Editor-in-Chief of Vulture Magazine, Nabil Aliffi, did I learn that the ambiguity was what Vulture stood for.
You have to agree that magazines, be it the printed version or its online edition, fall into the motion of being constricted by the genre they identify with. Fashion magazines largely report on...well, fashion. Tech magazines deal with the nifty gadgets, and so forth. And while diverse as the publication industry may be, what does this all mean to the reader? Where is the reader's voice in all of it?
Enter Vulture. You see, Vulture is not exactly a fashion magazine. Neither can you shelve it under culture or music or art. In fact, if you tried, you would have to shelve it in all of the different sections.
"We saw the need for a space that allows for full creative freedom whether it is in fashion, art, film or general culture," Aliffi explains. "It later grew to become an avenue for dialogue between those various domains to talk about things that are more inherent, intrinsic, if you will."
"Beyond that, I leave it to the readers to decide what it represents to them."
The magazine launched their debut issue last month. Titled 'The Genesis Issue', the pages were a clear indication of everything that the usual glossies were not. It gave you fashion, for example, but in a very raw way. There weren't any "shiny-happy-people" types that you'll find in most off-the-shelf titles. It was confrontational, but still elegant and poetic.
Venture on to read the articles and you will find that the narratives presented are subversively witty and emotional. The core of the magazine was driven by the honest idea that a magazine - any magazine - could put out content, but it should never be dictated by the content itself. It could be anything it wanted to be, and stand for anything you wanted it to stand for.
Coupling this idea with the hyperpowers of the Internet, and you have a winning combination. Aliffi's team is spread across the tectonic plates of the world, ranging from "a variety of backgrounds, from Anthropology to Performance Art". He believes that by opening the contribution pool to a wider base of talented individuals, the magazine is able to create an experience that is multi-faceted in content with brevity in each topic.
I hope that by now, you have a better understanding of Vulture. In closing, I asked Aliffi the question that has always stayed on my mind: why the name 'Vulture'? With a laugh, he tells me it stems from a personal fascination of life through the process of decay. "It speaks of continuity. And as we know, Vulture is a scavenger by nature. Plus, the thought of being villain-ised is quite fun," Aliffi ends with a smile.
Every season has its standout shows. This Fall '12 was no different. The set designs from Marc Jacob's eponymous line and his work at Louis Vuitton could inspire a smile from the most jaded of fashion hearts. Everyone swooned for Phoebe Philo's colour-blocked furs at Céline or Alber Elbaz's anniversary collection for Lanvin.
Of course I loved these collections as much as the next person. Yet, if I were to pick a collection that should resonate well with the modern woman, it would have to be Claire Waight Kelly's line for Chloé.
The collection was decidedly British - tweeds, sober tones and roomy sportswear seemed to dominate the collection of 33 looks. If anything was to be decided from the first look, you could say that the collection could be a British interpretation of the French house's signature insouciance, mixed with the timelessness of English countryside sportswear. The peach duffel coat (a colour that I have taken a liking to, unexpectedly) paired with a muted blouse and pant felt right - it was sensible and stylish without being saccharine or seeming like too much thought went into the look.
Kelly's strength has been in knitwear, having done time at Pringle of Scotland previously. Culottes featured elastic hems, and pants were finished with a ribbed knit to resemble trackpants. Her pullovers were sumptuous, comfortable and loosely fitted. My personal favourite was one that looked as if Kelly let her kids go at it with some crayons. The result was a wonderful patchwork of coloured yarns finished with a gold zip up the back. It felt cosy, familiarly frumpy, and very English.
Chloé, the brand, has always been known for her easy yet charming dresses. Kelly respected that tradition with her Fall offerings too. They were girlish and light, picking up in the wind as it breezed by you. Some were drop-waisted, others featured a pop-up lace appliqué. They never felt brazen or ostentatious, rather, the sexiness of a dress solely relied on the charm and elegance of its wearer.
In closing, what Kelly tries to do here is not just design a collection. She's proposing a lifestyle, a way of thinking when you dress up. She's suggesting an easier, but not necessarily less effective way of looking stylish. There is a right mix of restraint, proportions and ease in her ideas.
The next time you hear someone behind you offering you a tip on how to knot a tie while you shop at G2000, don't be surprised if you are greeted by friendly in-house stylists, who are always ready to offer your some suggestions on how to wear the brand's collections.
Last weekend, I was invited to try out the styling services offered by two members of the brand's style team, Nigel and Li Qing. I know, personal styling may not the most groundbreaking type of service a brand can offer to value-add to your shopping experience, but I do think that it's a step in the right direction. Without dwelling much on this, I will say that the Singaporean working crowd - though decently dressed for most of the population - could do with a little help to turn a humdrum outfit into something even more. After all, who can deny that when you dress well, you feel a little more confident with a little more spring in your step.
I started by styling experience when I was asked to fill out a form on all matters relating to my style and the preferences I have in dressing. I am told, however, that customers do not need to apply for the services because these stylists are stationed at G2000 outlets in the central region of Singapore. Walk up to anyone of them and they would be more than willing to work out which shade of pink best suits your skin tone.
The session was very thorough. You are greeted and seated, and the presentation of proposed outfit options is narrated by the stylist. For Nigel, he understood that I needed clothing that could easily bring me from day to night. I liked that he respected my preference for a monochromatic wardrobe, but I was more impressed with how astute he was in paying attention to ensure that the outfits he prepared could be broken up and reworked amongst the existing pieces. I particularly liked a very Sofia Coppola-esque look, which consisted of a navy blue merino pullover and a crisp white shirt underneath. The fit was sublime.
See, Nigel wasn't just proposing outfits, he was building a wardrobe. And this is something I realised that some personal shoppers forget - that the pieces you buy cannot just work for one look, but should give a sensible amount of mileage with your existing wardrobe.
Li Qing, on the other hand, created what I felt personally to be the most successful outfit of the day. It was a blazer from G2000's new line, AT-20. The main fabric was a handsome looking wool in a cool grey, with lines of maroon running down and across in a checkered pattern. The shoulder yoke and sleeves were done in a darker tone of charcoal. Paired with a classic shirt and a tie made from slub knit, it's a rakish option for the modern gentlemen, without coming off as being intimidatingly dapper (yes, there is such a thing).
On top of being available to regular walk-in customers, another great part about the styling services are that you never feel pressured into buying the pieces chosen for you. More often than not, in-house stylists veer upon being pesky when they try to push you in the direction of the cashier, even though you're not in the mood to spend. What I liked about the stylists were that they were respectful of your personal decision, and were upfront in telling you that you can take your time to think about the look. Just be wary though, some of their designs run out pretty fast so don't ponder too long.
So firstly, why am I writing this? Well, the simple reason being that since the topic of "blogger bashing" (how dramatic it sounds) has taken over the conversations on my Twitter timeline, there's no better and apt time as now to pen the thoughts I've had about this never-ending tussle.
It starts with a disgruntled journalist, taking her frustrations about the blogging race out to air on the pages of Elle Singapore. She believes the age of blogs are dead. She believes that the integrity of content produced by said blogs are compromised when you consider the dollars and cents these bloggers make off the subtle advertising of products. What then ensues is a rattled group of enraged bloggers - or disdained at the least - to point the fingers back at her. And there you have it: The world of blogs versus the world of trained journalists.
It got me thinking: in the conversation of all things related to fashion and style, when everyone has something to say, who's really saying anything?
Perhaps before continuing, I should say that I stand for neither sides, or you could see it that I stand for both sides. I worked previously in a publication, I came from a background of journalism, but here I am writing a post for a website (I don't know if I can call my site a blog). I am not a blogger, neither am I a journalist. I'm but one participant in this conversation of fashion.
And perhaps, what the writer here seems to have missed was this: if the death of the Blog, which she so adamantly insists upon is real, then she might have missed the memo that would tell her how print media isn't doing so peachy either.
At the risk of sounding harsh, I found her point about content integrity a little comical. I am immediately reminded of the days where I was with a certain local magazine who insisted that I include product placements from various advertisers, regardless of how terrible the designs are or that they do not cohere with the theme at all. A familiar case of pot calling the kettle black, no?
Then again, her frustrations must have some leveled ground to stand on. If you take out the hissing spite from the targeted bloggers and their ardent followers, and examine the content (both produced locally and internationally) objectively, you have to admit at some point that the writer does have some truth to her argument.
Perhaps it is just a difference in writing styles, but I remember reading a blog post that went vaguely like this:
"I was invited to watch this fashion show today and it was very fun. I sat front row, so exciting! Here are some photos of me..." *Cue 17 photos of essentially the same thing and obligatory photos of the blogger in her front row seat* "I saw the collection, wow, so nice. The dress was very nice. The prints were very nice. The material looked very nice, very good for Singapore weather. The goodie bag very nice. I enjoyed myself so much. Thank you XYZ Brand!"
Don't laugh. This happened.
Not only do I find the writing a little unpolished (I'm being nice here), I think that was a waste of a good front row seat. Just because a blogger sits front row, or receives however much money to write about a dress made from burlap, it should not be assumed that these perks are a quality benchmark for the content.
In closing, here's what I think: let the matter rest, for good. Journalist-bashing and blogger-bashing is and will always be - in my opinion - for no other good but public humor and entertainment. After all, one should remember that it is not about whether one has a blog or the journalistic pen, but the ability to resound currency and relativity to the reader.
Weekly Picking - 12 to 18 Aug 2012
Vita (Upfront Models)
Height: 1.81m
Measurements: 32"-24"-35"
Eyes: Blue
Hair: Dark Blonde
Her statuesque height makes her a good runway girl, but her face is just as captivating. Looking like an alien may not sound like a compliment, but for Vita, her features are so beautifully odd. A very linear set of cheekbones juxtapose her wide eyes, set in an enchanting shade of greyish blue.
If you are/ know someone who is:
- 170cm or taller
- Male
- Lean/ skinny built
- Long hair/ piercings/ tattoos not a must but a plus
- Game enough (we might mess with your hair/look a little, but we'll make sure it's not too OTT, we promise!)
Email [email protected] for more info!
The castings will be held on 13 and 18 Aug 2012, in a central location. In your email, please include a photo of your face and full body, vital stats (height, chest and waist measurements) and contact details where possible. The show is held on 29 Aug 2012.
Weekly Picking - 5 to 11 Aug 2012
Da Chuan (Ave Management)
Height: 1.88m
Chest: 38"
Waist: 30"
Eyes: Black
Hair: Black
I'm thrilled when I find a great Asian model (represent!). Enter Da Chuan, who's walked from the streets of China and onto the runway of Lanvin. He's got that formulaic appeal of every Korean superstar there is: lean abs, tousled hair and that smouldering pout. But hey, I'm just gonna give credit where it's due. Da Chuan looks good, and I sure do hope he delivers in time to come.
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