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On January 05 1532, the very first settlement of the “Village of Guadalajara” was established in Nochistlán (today, Zacatecas) The founding of this early Villa de Guadalajara was presided by Juán de Oñate by order of Nuño B. de Guzmán, who chose the name after his own hometown in Spain. La Villa de Guadalajara remained in this location for almost two years, and then it was moved to Tonalá.

Mercado Corona: From Graveyard to City Market.

At the beginning of the XVI century, this was the place of a graveyard.

By the mid XVI century, bishop Cipriano de Nava, built his private mansion on this very site.

In 1573, bishop decides to turn his luxurious home into a school for girls: Colegio de Santa Catalina de Siena.

The school declined some time later. It became a convent of Dominican nuns in 1588, and a few years later the convent became a hospital: Hospital de San Miguel.

In 1784, bishop Fray Antonio Alcalde considered that this historic hospital didn't suffice to cover the needs of a growing population. (A new hospital was built -Hospital de Belén, today Hospital Civil- ) and the old Hospital de San Miguel was abandoned and remained desolate for a long time.

By 1809 open-air markets had proliferated. The City decided to clean part of the already deteriorated building, and make it a public square with some commercial sites. This place was named Plaza de Venegas, in honor of the Spanish viceroy.

In 1812, in the midst of the War of Independence, this public square was the setting of one of the most violent events in the history of Independence: Insurgent general José Antonio Torres (also known as El Amo Torres) was captured, and tried on charges of treason against the king. He was sentenced to the gallows by the Safety and Good Order Board on April 04. Finally he was executed in the Plaza Venegas on May 23, 1812. He was decapitated and brutally dismembered. His head was placed on a tall pole and they scattered his limbs among the four main entries to Guadalajara. His torso remained exposed in the Plaza de Venegas, today Mercado Corona, for several days.

Surprisingly, after 1821, when the War of Independence was over, the name of the market was changed to Plaza Independencia, in honor of General José Antonio Torres.

1861, the remains of this old building were completely demolished.

In 1888 the Governor, Gen. Ramón Corona, decided to build a new market at a cost of $79,000 pesos. While in construction, in 1889,Gen. Corona was murdered and the market was named after him to immortalize his contribution to the city.

Made of black stone, it had a simple but elegant neoclassical style. The Italian stained glass dome would cast a beautiful light into the market. The pleasure for this gorgeous market was short-lived: On November 15, 1910 it suffered an accidental fire; aparently, there was a celebration in Plaza de Armas and one of the fireworks broke the glass ceiling, causing it to catch fire in the interior. It was rebulit in 1911.

In the 1960's, during a modernization fad, the Ayuntamiento considered the building as ¨out-of-date¨ and decided to demolish this monument dating from the late XIX century to build a ¨modern¨ market that was re-opened in 1964.

On sunday may 04, 2014, a short circuit caused a major fire in Mercado Corona, once more, just like that one, 104 years ago.

Today, the proposed project to rebuild it does not include black stone, Italian stained glass or arches. Instead, the new building might resemble more a shopping mall than a traditional market, where customers have come to find their ancient ailments and herbal remedies, and to enjoy a bowl of menudo on a cold morning or a cup of pulque on a hot summer afternoon, for over a century.

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Tepache

Tepache is a traditional Mexican drink.

As the old song says:

¨Tlaquepaque pueblito (Tlquepaque, old town)

Tus olorosos jarritos (its fragrant clay mugs)

Hacen más fresco el dulce tepache (make tepache taste sweeter)

Para la birria (to pair with a delicious birria plate)

Junto al mariachi...¨ (listening to mariachi)

The word ¨tepache¨ comes from the Nahuatl vocable tepiatl ¨corn drink¨ which it was originally prepared with.

Today tepache is known as a beverage made from the fermentation of the mixture of pineapple and sugar.

But besides being a refreshing drink, tepache is a probiotic food. Probiotics contain live microorganisms that contribute to a good digestion and to overall health.

Since ancient times, tepache was used among the prehispanic cultures as an ailment to eliminate fatigue symptoms, and to strengthen the immune system.

Here is my home made tepache recipe.

All ingredients were placed in a vitrolera, (one of those big glass cointainers) or it can also be prepared in a large clay pot.

1) A whole pineapple chopped, unpeeled.

2) 4 piloncillos broken in pieces (this is the fun part)

3) Some cinnamon sticks (to taste)

4) 3-4 cloves

5) Add water just until all ingredients are submerged

Cover the vitrolera and place in a dark place. A cupboard or a closet. Let it sit there for three days, stirring it once or twice a day. .

On the third day, strain out all the juice, and discard the ingredients. (or you can use them to decorate the serving cups, like I did)

Adjust the sweetness to taste. You can water it down or add more piloncillo or brown sugar.

Chill before serving, or just add ice before drinking

Enjoy!!

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6 a.m. This old man arrives in the same taxi, every morning. He wears a hat and huaraches, but his clotes are perfectly pressed and his tan jacket spotless. The taxi driver helps him with his load: three huge armfuls of fresh flowers. They shake hads every time, and the taxi leaves.

El señor de las flores, arranges carnations, lilies, chrysanthemums, sunflowers and gladiolas in three buckets. Then he sits at the bench outside the gift shop, -owned by the argentinian guy that argues with his mexican wife over pozole or pizza for dinner- (every day)

The flower man's merchadise sells quickly. Around noon, the same taxi comes back. He loads the three empty buckets in the trunk and they leave.

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June 22, 2012

Jardines Alcalde

Guadalajara, Jalisco

It rained and poured all night long.

From the roof of my sister's building: Beautiful sunshine and a soft breeze, so gentle it almost feels tropical.

My summer dream suddenly shatters at the street cry of ¡el gas!. The propane delivery truck honks.

In the distance, the legendary Estadio Jalisco stands impassive.... in silence.

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ONE TAPATIO IN FRANCE

Jeremias has always been fascinated by what he sees. The world around him is an unyielding universe of images to be captured.

His curious green eyes are not simply looking for something to take a picture of; rather they find a visual poem in everything they perceive.

His lens take the viewer on a diagrammatic trip, from the daily lives of cadets onboard Mexican naval training ship "Cuauhtémoc", to a reggae concert in Paris.

Descendant of one of the families with most tradition in the state of Jalisco, this young photographer is passionate about his tapatio origin. Tireless traveler, though, he found love (or love found him) during a trip to Rouen, Normandy in 2007.

Back in Mexico he finished his professional studies and soon the happily married young couple decided to settle in Rennes, France where Jeremias is now a prolific photographer and a proud full-time dad

Jeremias Escudero Orendain holds a Bachelor of Visual Arts with a major in Photography, and a Diploma in Film, by Universidad de Guadalajara. As well as Training in Fine Arts by the Ecole Nationale Supérieure d'Architecture de Normandie in Darnetal, France.

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BENITO JUAREZ IN GUADALAJARA

Bronze statue of Benito Juarez, Father of the Americas. This monument was inaugurated as part of the celebrations for the centennial of the Mexican Independence.It was first placed in the courtyard of Jardin de Escobedo, outside of the Penitenciaria de Escobedo.

La Penitenciaria de Escobedo was the first prison in Jalisco. Founded by former governor Antonio Escobedo, it was soon known as "Casa Colorada " (the red house), due to the color of its exterior walls

Its construction began between 1843 and 1845, until 1875.

In the early 30's. the penitentiary was demolished. (In its place is the Revolution Park today), the monument was relocated to Calzada Independencia in front of San Juan de Dios, and during the 1960's it is removed again to be installed on the plaza in honor of Benito Juarez in front of the park Agua Azul.

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LIFE AND DEATH OF THE GIANT

In the late 1950's in Guadalajara, there was a huge Pepsi Cola sign made entirely of tin and neon tube . A true work of art.

At times, it blinked to reveal a couple dancing the Jarabe Tapatío.

This colossal sign was mounted on top of a nearby building next to Mercado de San Juan de Dios, which made it visible from as far as Parque de la Revolucion at night.

Joel Mercado, in his short story, "The Neon Sign of San Juan de Dios: Life and Death of a Giant" describes his excitement for having contributed to the forging of this majestic piece.

Through his young eyes, Joel Mercado, as a teenage worker, remembers those colorful characters with whom he worked shoulder to shoulder at his early age: Salvador and Ismael, the tinsmiths , Justino the blacksmith, Nieves, the molder, Simon the installer, and Pancho Legaspi the designer.

He remembers them pulling pranks on each other, he remembers the amazing creative work that fostered his own love for art, and the musical background of Cuartero Rufino , Los 5 Latinos, and Los Hermanos Reyes, before lunch time.

Today, nearly 56 years after, and having founded and developed several signage companies in Guadalajara thoughout his life, Don Joel, now a great grandfather, still keeps in his memory the names of Jorge and Javier Gutierrez, the owners and Castulito the loyal assistant of that company where he worked in his youth.

This was a work team where he learned something from everyone, and that he remembers fondly and almost in a brotherly way.

But the memory he preserves the deepest, is undoubtedly of that giant Pepsi bottle cap, since he was an active participant of its creation.

He loved it since the first moment he saw it lighting up the night sky of his beloved Guadalajara, with that cosmopolitan phosphorescence that thrilled his generation.

Being a man of tender heart and artisic character, Don Joel , deeply regretted the premature dismantling of "the giant" only after a few years of having been installed.

But he still wonders where the remains of the luminous colossus could have ended up, as he says "As long as Mercado Libertad exists, I will remember the divine giant I saw being born "

The motion of the sign can be seen in the movie Guadalajara en Verano (1964)

For ten brief seconds, at least.

Skip to minute 56:12

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDeZtPgDV7o

VIDA Y MUERTE DE UN GIGANTE

A finales de los años 50's en Guadalajara, existió un anuncio de Pepsi-Cola hecho en su totalidad de hojalata y tubo de neón. Una verdadera obra de arte.Sus luces parpadeaban alternativamente, revelando una pareja bailando el Jarabe Tapatío.

Este monumental anuncio estaba instalado en la parte superior de algún edificio colindante con el Mercado de San Juan de Dios, lo que lo hacia visible desde el Parque de la Revolución, en la noche.

Joel Mercado, en su historia "El Anuncio de Neón de San Juan de Dios: Vida y Muerte de un Gigante", describe su emoción al haber colaborado en la forja de esta majestuosa pieza.

A través de sus jóvenes ojos, Joel, un adolescente trabajador, recuerda aquellos coloridos personajes: Salvador e Ismael, los hojalateros, Justino el herrero, Nieves el plastiquero, Simón el instalador, y Pancho Legaspi el diseñador con quienes trabajo hombro con hombro, a su temprana edad. Recuerda los chistes de aquellos, la amena labor del trabajo creativo con la música de fondo del Cuartero Rufino, Los 5 Latinos y Los Hermanos Reyes, y también la tradicional hora de la comida de 2 a 4.

A casi 56 años de aquella época, Don Joel, ahora bisabuelo, y habiendo fundado varias empresas de anuncios a lo largo de su vida, aún guarda en su memoria los nombres de Jorge y Javier Gutierrez, los propietarios y a Castulito el asistente de aquella fabrica donde aprendió su oficio y a quienes recuerda de manera casi fraternal.

Pero la memoria mas nítida que conserva, es sin duda la de aquella corcholata gigante de Pepsi, de cuya creación, él fue activo participante.

Quedó prendado desde el primer momento que la vió encendida. Amó la manera en que su intermitencia iluminaba el cielo nocturno de su querida Guadalajara, en aquella fosforescencia cosmopolita que tanto entusiasmaba a su generación.

Siendo un hombre de corazón sensible y carácter artísico, Don Joel, lamentó profundamente el prematuro desmantelamiento de aquel gigante, a tan sólo algunos años de haber sido instalado.

Todavía se pregunta dónde quedarían los restos del coloso luminoso. Aunque, como el mismo dice: "mientras el Mercado Libertad exista, recordaré al divino gigante que yo vi nacer"

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En la película Guadalajara en Verano se puede admirar este anuncio, aunque por solo 10 segundos.

(Adelantar al minuto 56:12)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDeZtPgDV7o

GUADALAJARA DOUBLE-DECKER

Wonderful image of the double-decker tram.

The double-decker trams Guadalajara, built by McGuire Cummings, were numbered 50 and 51.

This photo of the #50, shows the "wall of decency" that allowed respectable ladies -wearing skirts- to climb to the upper level.

The photo was taken northbound on Calle Corona.

The Cathedral appears in the distance.

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In 1912, Guadalajara witnessed a long series of earthquakes that were cause "that afflicted neighbors Carmen, spend long nights of anguish outdoors or camping in the rain under the trees of the current Parque de la Revolution or simple shelters simple improvised with mats or blankets.

The word rondalla originated in Spain during the Middle Ages, and it means "serenade"

Rondallas evolved in four types of musical groups:

Young men who played and sang in front of homes.

Bands of steet musicians that begged for alms, known as murgas.

Comparza, a musical group that played on stage, in front of an audience.

Estudiantina, a group of college students that played in a musical group.

Estudiantinas are popular in Guanajuato. Some still try to emulate the XVI century attire with their multicolored capes and ribbons.

Above, a rondalla or estudiantina, playing in Guadalajara. Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/hugogless/page1/

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CHAPALA BELLE EPOQUE

In the late nineteenth century, well-heeled Mexicans and some foreigners, made Chapala their summer retreat.

These images remind much of Saint-Tropez style, except it is Chapala, during the Porfiriato.

The Mexican elite that constituted the oligarchy of those times would spend their summer days hiking, sunbathing and swimming. One can only imagine those romantic serenades under the moonlight, after long afternoons of playing cards.

Couples strolled in boats and then attended elegant ballroom dances held daily at some huge mansion like those of Villa Montecarlo or Villa Reynera.

Although we can't forget the typical class inequality in Mexico, these must have been beautiful times, for the wealthy.

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CHOO-CHOO CHAPALA...

April 8, 1920

12:45 p.m.

The arrival of the first train to Chapala, Jalisco.

Mr. Christian Schejtnan, manager of the Norwegian railway company, was greeted with a standing ovation by people and the orchestra aboard the train.

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LUCHA LIBRE AT THE FOUNDERS' HOUSE: ANOTHER PIECE OF HISTORY LOST TO "MODERNITY"

On the streets of Medrano and Calzada Independencia, once there was a huge house, property of one of the founders of our city: Cristóbal de Oñate

It was built in 1542, at the east bank of the San Juan de Dios river. The river marked the boundaries of the settlement and back then, Analco was not a neighborhood, but a city.

Don Cristobal de Oñate died in 1567, in Zacatecas, and his house ended up uninhabited and completely abandoned .

In 1585 the first Palacio de Gobierno was relocated to El Palacio de Oñate , so called in honor of his first owner.

In time, the palace was abandoned again, and in the XVII century it was almost in ruins. It was rebuilt by Magistrate Francisco Medrano y Pacheco around 1640 to 1642. People began to call it Palacio de Medrano.

In the wake of Medrano's death, the mansion was, one more, neglected for years, and it was often occupied as military headquarters, barracks, granary and inn until finally, and in terrible conditions, it was put up for sale in public auction.

The buyers demolished this historical house, around 1930's or 1940's, and in it place they bulit the ordinary "modern" building of our time that houses Arena Coliseo.

Nothing remained of that historical gem.

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There are very few pictures of this building. However, the prominent tapatío painter and muralist, José Marcelino Vizacarra Batres had the sensitivity to capture its courtyards in some of his paintings.

The fact that there are only a couple of photos of this building (which existed in what is now occupied by a wrestling arena) make the paintings of Joseph Vizacarra a wonderful window into the past.

A few months ago I was fortunate to be able to contact the grandnephew of Don José Vizcarra, Mr. Rafael Soriano Berrueta, who kindly shared with me, some photographs of the original paintings, which belong to the private collection of the family.

Beautiful courtesy that I deeply appreciate.

THE FOUNDING OF GUADALAJARA: A LONG PILGRIMAGE

The city of Guadalajara was previously settled in three different geographical places.

UNO!

First, it was settled in Nochistlán (present Zacatecas) in 1532, approx. Which lasted a little longer than a year, due to the lack of water and the constant attacks of the Caxcanes native tribes.

DOS!

Settlers then relocated to the area of Tonala in 1533. This new settlement only lasted eighteen months.

TRES!

The settlers re-founded then, Tlacotán, (today Ixtlahuacán del Rio) in early 1535, which lasted 7 years. They say that this is where the term "tapatiotl" originated, which was a currency unit to trade.

Finally actual capital of the state of Jalisco was founded on February 14, 1542 by Don Cristóbal de Oñate , who after various difficulties managed to seat it in the Valley of Atemajac .

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FOUNDING OF GUADALAJARA

Beatriz Hernández monument: Located next to Plaza Fundadores, on Morelos Street.

Beatriz Hernández was the wife of Juan Sánchez Olea, one of the founders of our beautiful city. The resolution and leadership of this brave lady was instrumental in the decision making for the foundation of Guadalajara, Jalisco.

In 1542 sixty three Spanish families settled in this area, known back then, as the Atemajac Valley at the determination of a courageous woman named Beatriz Hernandez, who urged the community to stay and build homesteads.

Although the choice seemed disadvantaged due to the poor soil quality and lack of water, the broad flat plain provided a good position to prevent and protect themselves against attacks from Caxcanes native people.

When Don Antonio de Mendoza proposed the founding of this new town, the people fearful by the experiences they'd lived, protested. To settle the decision, Cristobal de Oñate took out his knife and plunged it into the trunk of a tree (the tree was located behind the site now occupied by Teatro Degollado) and he declared the city of Guadalajara, on behalf of the king.

As the people's discontent continued, and no one agreed with the idea of settling in this location, Beatriz Hernandez shouted : "People , we are here to remain by hook or by crook!" Eventually, people accepted this chosen place and showed their support. Although the area was not a good choice, it was ideal to prevent attacks from local natives.

On December 10, 1560, Guadalajara became the capital of Nueva Galicia, and soon it became a commercial bridge between Europe and the the colonies, and an important center of mercantile activitiy in the west of the country.

This monument was created by tapatio artist, Ignacio Anaya Garibay in 1987 by order of the City Council.

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TAPATIO URBAN EXPLORER

Hugo Gonzalez was born and raised in Guadalajara.

Perhaps the main reason why he could be described as an urban explorer is that, more than just as a shooting session, he takes every scouting as a trip to discover new angles and colors under the constantly changing light of our city.

His photography is an interpretation of urban Guadalajara. The daily grind, the motion of the metropolis, people at the park, bubbles in the air, classic cars, streets at dusk, night light steaks and shrill rock concerts.

One can tell from his work that, he not only lives in Guadalajara, but he lives Guadalajara.

In a city of 1.5 million people, there is always much to see and do, but only a true tapatio by birth (or choice) like Hugo, is able to recognize those iconic elements to create a visual composition that is genuine to Guadalajara.

Check his portfolio on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/hugogless/page1/

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