Paul Stuart is an upscale men's & women's retailer known for its unique take on Anglo-American classics. Since 1938 Paul Stuart has been the leading arbiter of taste, style and fashion for luxury menswear in the United States. Founded by Ralph Ostrove and named after his son, the store has dressed world leaders, dignitaries, celebrities, titans of business, and anyone who expects high quality clothing and superior service.
Carmine Micciulla, our senior outerwear buyer, talks about the Fall/Winter 2015 Outerwear Collection.
Carmine, doesn’t have anything against Spring and Summer, but, understandably, still looks forward to the opportunities presented by the shorter days and chill evenings that herald the arrival of Fall and Winter. And with good reason. It is, after all, that most outerwear centric time of year…(Image 1) We recently asked Carmine what we might expect from the season so immediately upon us, and, unsurprisingly, he proved almost as loquacious as he is, habitually, enthusiastic. “We try to be diverse in our assortment so really, there is no single direction; and why should there be? There are a multitude of great looks and terrific pieces this autumn, all informed by some utterly unique – and, needless to say, very Paul Stuart - characteristics that define our collection.
Our assortment of shearling coats and jackets are all, to a piece, amazingly soft and warm. (Image 2 & 3).
The leathers are all rich and buttery. But I believe that the single most striking aspect of our outerwear is that it is built for not only for comfort but, equally importantly, for protection against the elements. Form follows function—but always in an entirely elegant manner.
My favorite piece of the season is a great " hybrid" glove leather blazer. It features a detachable gilet, which helps extends the options for wear; it functions in a classic outerwear role, but also works really well as a more elegant leather blazer. I like it because of its versatility and stamina. You can wear it now, in 40 degree weather—without the gilet attached—and it works much like a blazer. But, it also proves dependable as the weather gets colder because of the funnel neck, The softness of the skin, glove quality lambskin, the simplicity of the styling, and the workmanship are exceptional. It's hand made here in the US. I look forward to having mine for a long time. It is exactly the type of jacket that gets better and better with age. And just think of how nice its’ going to be if it starts out this soft and luxurious. In terms of color, we run a very understated gamut, from rich dark chocolate browns, through mahogany, and on to ebony.
Man’s Best Friend may forever be Fido, but we’d like to suggest that a favorite Sport Jacket could well run a close second…
Consider for a moment the sheer versatility of the sport jacket. Whether a handsomely understated execution (like the beautifully tailored tan and brown herringbone in Escorial wool featured here), or a seasonal favorite in fabrics ranging from hearty tweed to handkerchief -weight linen. In our view, the trusty sport jacket is, like the most loyal of companions, always there when you need it.
A few noteworthy Sport Jacket specific facts worth bearing in mind:
Those rough and tumble antecedents—the “sporting” part of Sport Jacket—are a dim memory when considering the sheer variety of cloths and tailoring options available today. The ‘humble Sport Jacket is humble no longer.
When properly accessorized, the SJ is appropriate for very nearly any setting or occasion, from business to casual, evening to weekend, day to night. (So yes, a Sport Jacket can indeed—and quite dashingly—go swanning around town well into the wee hours.)
Because it is endlessly versatile, the Sport Jacket is an ardent traveller (ever democratic, paired with well-worn jeans, elegant charcoal flannels, colorful cords, or, well, you get the idea…).
The Blazer remains the closest of cousins to the Sport Jacket, although a bit of a burnished statement-piece, being just a tad more formal (and thus, essential in the wardrobe of the well dressed urban privateer).
Finally, The Only Sacrosanct, Never To Be Broken Rule*—the odd suit coat is never to be confused with a Sport Jacket. Just because. And besides, it will likely look like you’ve simply forgotten to pack your pants.
- See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/sport-jackets#sthash.5cGuFWnN.dpuf
Paul Stuart will be celebrating the 50th Anniversary of Academy Award winning filmmaker D. A. Pennebaker’s (Monterey Pop, Company, The War Room) lauded documentary ‘Don't Look Back’ with a month long exhibit October 5th through November 10th, 2015, at all four Paul Stuart locations.
In 1965, when the 23 year-old Bob Dylan toured the United Kingdom, director Pennebaker was allowed behind the scenes to provide one of the most intimate glimpses of the intensely private songwriter. 2015 marks the 50th Anniversary of the film, which chronicles Dylan's concert appearances, hotel room conversations, and transportation downtime, pulling back the curtain on the artist at the end of his relationship with Joan Baez and on the cusp of his creative shift toward rock music.
A true American icon, Dylan is not simply a singer-songwriter, but an author, poet, film actor (and subject) and has been a major figure in popular music for more than five decades. During the course of his career, he has won awards for songwriting, performing and recording earning him, thus far, eleven Grammys (including a Lifetime Achievement Award), the Kennedy Center Honors and an Academy Award. He has been inducted into both the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and the Songwriters Hall of Fame. In 2008, he was awarded a Pulitzer Prize Special Citation for his “profound impact on American culture, marked by lyrical compositions of extraordinary poetic power.”
‘Dont Look Back’ is distinguished by such famed images as the iconic Subterranean Homesick Blues “cue-card” sequence, considered to be the first contemporary music video. A.O. Scott of The New York Times, in reference to the film, has stated that it “invented the rock documentary”. It is also a selection of The National Film Registry Preservation Board.
D.A. Pennebaker is scheduled to make a personal appearance in our Madison Avenue flagship store on November 05 to sign copies of The Criterion Collection dedicated 50th Anniversary DVD Boxed Set of ‘Dont Look Back’. Much like Paul Stuart’s recent tributes to The Rat Pack, The Best of Broadway (co-hosted by Patti Lupone), and a presentation of the work of legendary Hollywood Golden Age photographer George Hurrell (produced in association with The Kobal Collection), the ‘Dont Look Back’ promotion will feature a month-long installation – inclusive of both window and interior displays and incorporating both memorabilia and the display of 15 sanctioned photo stills taken directly from the film.
All 15 photos will be presented in limited editions of ten (10) prints per image, hand numbered and signed by D.A. Pennebaker. This marks the first time any photographic prints have been made available from the film and these have the full endorsement of both Pennebaker and Bob Dylan’s representation.
In addition, a limited edition of ten (10) vintage ‘Dont Look Back’ film posters, signed by Pennebaker will also be available for purchase, as will several sanctioned and certified Hohner Bob Dylan Signature Series harmonicas. The project is being produced in association with Arthouse 18. Shop ‘Don’t Look Back’ Products here - See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/bob-dylan-dont-look-back-installation#sthash.sAC6w870.dpuf
Our knitwear buyer, Jennifer Steen, is singularly serious about sweaters.
So, here’s her take on the Fall Season; best bets, personal favorites, and spot-on trend analysis…
“At Paul Stuart we are, historically and quite happily, known for embracing color. This season we curated the assortment to express the most vibrant tones and richest textures.
For example, we’ve grounded the fall assortment in dark navies and forest greens, but popped in some surprises. Like our chunky cable knit wool and cashmere crew neck
from the catalog in bright blue. It’s an unexpected and refreshing color choice for the season… and of course, exclusively ours.
In addition to bright and bold color, I think sophisticated neutral shades continue to be an important component to every wardrobe. Shades of grey, camel, and cream—with pops of deep spruce, richly saturated brick red, and dark eggplant are all perfect illustrations.
My personal favorite might just be our white cross over stitch mock turtle . It can be worn après ski or with a pair of flannel trousers for a night of sipping scotch with old friends. In that way it’s an excellent example of how we’ve tailored and simplified our classic sweaters for easy day-to-night looks. Speaking of which, it’s about multi-end use knitwear. Our no-fail, foolproof, looks great on every guy Double breasted knit cashmere sport coat can go from day to night and even double as outerwear. It’s a real statement sweater and just too perfect.
I’m also keen on the fisherman knit wool button mock neck . It’s a classic sweater made modern in an authentic Aran cable. Everything about this sweater is special; the color- a deep orange rust mélange yarn, the fit-modern yet comfortable, and the collar stance- perfect mid neck, chin height.
Finally, our great zip and button mock sweater is elegant, sophisticated, modern, and sexy. The 18 gauge knit features a rather unique combination of a button and a zip neck, a on the luxe suede detail and it’s an ideal sweater for over a dress shirt and tie, or under a sport coat with jeans. Plus it’s extra fine merino for all season comfort.
But really, this is barely the tip of the iceberg; please come in to the Madison Avenue store, and, if you like, ask for me. I’ll be happy to share more and even help you with your selection. After all, this time of year, it’s sweater time all the time.” - See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/our-knitwear-buyer-jennifer-steen#sthash.MSCJolNn.dpuf
Neatly tracing its origins to the classic hunting jackets of yore, we present our Wool Estate Jacket. A perennial favorite, our hounds-tooth wool Estate Jacket is made in the UK and features spot-on details like a dashing contrast maroon wool lining, upper hand warmer pockets, a rainproof interlining, a microsuede collar and trim, and two pouch pockets with a handy snap closures commodious enough to store the occasional poached game bird, should one be so inclined. The fingertip length assures a full measure of comfort even while strolling about the moors—and rather niftily allows it to do double duty over a suit or sport coat on more urban centric expeditions.
Our Made to Measure Shirting It’s really all to the better when one is aware that, excepting a true bespoke example, the Paul Stuart Made to Measure Shirt simply knows no equal.
This is an issue of critical import when one considers that the shirt on one’s back is the item of apparel closest to the body, and, therefore, needs must have the most intimate of personal connections.
It is also worth noting that each of our Made to Measure shirts requires up to 10 measurements in order to create a flawless fit for every client, and, unlike most commercial shirt makers, there exist no preset models from which to make a selection.
Leave us first examine the shirt collar. It is no exaggeration to say that the collar is to one’s face what a frame is to a painting. This simply means that the shirt collar needs to have an aesthetic link to the shape of your face—and the reason we offer no less than 10 different spreads from which to make a selection. And each of these collars can be adroitly altered in size—lengthening or shortening points for example—to suit. Additionally, the collar band can be raised or lowered to fit comfortably and flatter the height of one’s neck. (For instance, a longer neck might well benefit from our more upright, moderate spread, ‘Fairbanks’ model collar? Or, if your preference runs more to classic English elegance we might recommend our wide spread ‘Charles’ collar).
The body fit of our shirt is even more individualized than the collar. French Front, Placket, Pleated Front, Smooth Back? Again, with our Made to Measure service this is never a problem. A two-button band, long point, Neapolitan style button-down straight out of the Riviera? Fear not. - See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/knowledge-is-style-made-to-measure-shirting#sthash.fOQAfr5B.dpuf
In NYC? Visit this shrine to classic Bob Dylan and meet D.A. Pennebaker tomorrow night! You’ll also be able to pick up DONT LOOK BACK three weeks before its street date.
Thank you @criterioncollection for mentioning the event. In addition to the signing, we have an exclusive in-store installation in our NYC store until 11/15/15
RALPH AURIEMA, OUR DESIGN DIRECTOR, TALKS ABOUT THE FALL 2015 PHINEAS COLE COLLECTION.
“This season, Phineas Cole remains at the forefront of the Paul Stuart design ethos; the line continues to present our take on the very nattiest of gentlemanly tailored clothing and accessories; a perfect fit for every wardrobe.
With Phineas we attempt to expand the limits of what one thinks of as classic tailored clothing. We continue to employ the basic tenets of fine, time-honored Anglo-American tailoring that Paul Stuart is known for, like hacking pockets and peaked lapels, but we do our best to shake things up a little by trimming the silhouette – as is the case with either this great grey windowpane suit (Image 1),
or the three-piece charcoal grey flannel suit (Image 2). It’s about the statement that fit and proportion can make; and yes, the willingness to take matters perhaps just one small step further, and consider adding the bold purple shirt and great silk deco tie.
The rest is pure personality. Unexpected details matter to me a lot; I’m really pleased with this plaid-riding jacket (Image 3). It doesn’t announce itself from across the room, but when you get closer you notice the green plaid is offset with purple, and that the velvet collar is executed in green and the angled pockets have flaps. Not breaking any rules here – just pushing a little against preconceived expectations.
But every so often we do like to blow the lid off with unusual color combinations and bolder patterns. One of my personal favorites this season is this paisley print velvet jacket (Image 4). It's a great evening jacket but its easy to take it to another, somewhat more unexpected level by simply adding the purple cashmere turtleneck sweater. I also really like our olive plaid version of a classic trench coat (Image 5), it’s just different enough to be interesting, but it doesn’t cross the line into costume, it’s still an extremely wearable coat for almost every wardrobe. The same is true for this navy blazer with a button out self-vest paired with the wool plaid trouser (Image 6)—it’s simple but really interesting; not revolutionary, but not common either.
For a bit more of a dramatic statement, our version of a double-breasted, military inspired greatcoat is just the thing. (Image 7) It has built in swagger—and the crimson lining is the kind of surprise detail that always makes me smile a little. It’s exactly the kind of twist that we think our clients are looking for." - See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/a-stroke-of-elegance#sthash.y5mxo910.dpuf
With a touch of tongue-in-cheek insouciance, naturally. Why struggle to keep it on the straight and narrow when a bit of an angle adds a jaunty touch and keeps one’s cravat out of the chowder (always a good idea). And besides, we really like to find a bit of dimension where we might, and, in our book, a properly ‘popped’ tie carries just the appropriate dash of dash. - See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/how-we-do-a-tie-bar#sthash.zeBfCX96.dpuf
A perfect example here, of the benefits of a bit of joyful exuberance (and, at its most complex, certainly not for amateurs or the faint-of-heart). Tone and scale are your best guidelines when considering how best to combine that plaid suit, striped shirt and checked tie (and why not throw caution entirely to the wind and add a rainbow humbling foulard pocket square. Now you’re on the right track… - See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/knowledge-is-style-how-we-push-patterns#sthash.266BNvDo.dpuf
Knowledge is Style: How we approach a Pocket Square
Let’s be clear about one terribly important thing; there is never a time when a pocket square is inappropriate. How you fold, poof or puff (a key distinction there, betwixt poof and puff) is less important than, as the athletic footwear gents say, just doing it… - See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/knowledge-is-style-how-we-approach-a-pocket-square#sthash.pHTeXI7J.dpuf
So. We like Ancient ‘Madder’ neckwear rather a lot, and for a host of reasons; first off, it represents an elegantly idiosyncratic methodology long used, predominantly, by the finest tie-making tradition in the UK. And it refers to both the ages-old (hence ‘ancient’) process using natural dyes that result in the richly muted colors for which madder is celebrated and the unique finishing process by which the silk is imbued with it’s characteristically soft, suede-like finish. Finally, this season, our take on not-so-Ancient Madder, traditionally a Fall season staple, gets a new lease on life with a distinctly summer friendly weight and color palette. Very Paul Stuart, no? - See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/knowledge-is-style-not-so-ancient-madder#sthash.R13lX09A.dpuf
Ostrove started working at Paul Stuart on weekends and school holidays as a boy. It’s a narrative more commonly found in Italian luxury companies than Anglo-Saxon ones—down to the requisite experience outside the family business working for other retail firms before returning to the fold.
As part of his personal odyssey, Michael did a rotation in every department at the New York flagship, eventually relocating to Chicago to open their second location in the “City With Big Shoulders”, finally returning to New York and assuming the rudder of the company. He was named President and CEO in 2009.
I met Michael for the first time back in January. The first question, inevitably, would be about family. Provenance and integrity are both highly desirable (and,at the moment, fashionable).
So I had to ask:
How do you embrace change at an organization that bears so many of your family’s indelible fingerprints?
There’s a desire to honor the past, a drive to persevere in the present and an objective to prosper in the future. They’re abstract ideas, but you do feel their influence in day-to-day decisions, in how we push the company forward.
How have you seen the Paul Stuart customer change during your 30 years
at the company?
There’s certainly been an evolution in both our product and in our customer—we develop with the times, with incremental changes in style—but because our philosophy on menswear and our place in the field has been so consistent, the customer who comes to us has been quite consistent as well. We’re a businessman’s destination, a serious store for people who take their dress seriously—not only at work but after hours and on weekends as well.
How does the Phineas Cole line fit into that evolution?
Phineas is for us as a laboratory—a place where we can push the envelope. We find that it’s an effective way to learn things about what we can do, how far we can stretch the basic tenets of our Anglo-American point-of-view. A little more dashing, a little more rakish, but, as always, it really depends on what best suits our customer. Interestingly enough, a fortunate by-product is that, almost every season, new design elements inform the main line and help us to push Phineas that much further.
Could you give some examples?
Fit has been the biggest differential, Phineas boasts a much trimmer fit. And details like peak lapels, hacking pockets, ticket pockets, flaps on breast pockets, bias cuts, dramatically unconventional fabric choices—all the little things that make up the whole DNA of the garment itself. The Phineas sensibility is instantly recognizable, but, also I think, still entirely identifiable as something found only at Paul Stuart.
Which line do you tend to wear yourself?
I wear both, and regularly mix the two together. In fact, that is probably a good example of the two sides represented by the two lines—a more adventurous accessory from one might be balanced by a classic piece of tailoring from the other, or vice-versa.
How would you characterize how you dress in general?
In line with our philosophy at Paul Stuart, which is: Understated sophistication and elegance with touches of whimsy or flair. Particularly color—I like to wear color, especially purple. And I really only feel properly dressed in a jacket. My uniform tends to consist of suits to the office and sports jackets on the weekend.
Strong color is often associated with being a ‘dandy’. How comfortable are you with the term, and should it be associated with Paul Stuart collections?
I think the important point is about individual interpretation. We never want to dictate to customers, to tell them to dress by numbers. It’s our mission to enable men to express themselves, and look good while doing it.
Key too, is a customer being faithful to themselves. Paul Stuart is for confident, sophisticated, successful men and women, and if they are comfortable pushing the boundaries a bit more, good for them. They can easily make use of our accessories, our sense of color, our refined classics, to become a bit more of a ‘dandy’. It’s about suiting the individual and their personal sense of style.
You’ve opened a new store in Washington, DC. Do you expect a different type of customer in the Capital?
We are very excited about what’s happening at CityCenter. There’s certainly a lot of familiarity with Paul Stuart in DC, and it’s a suit-wearing community so our establishing a store there fits very well. We are stocking by carefully evaluating what we hear from our existing customer—and there are really quite a few—who presently live and work in the Capital. We’re also obviously expecting to find—and be found by—an entirely new customer who has yet to discover the exclusive nature of what we do—and how it suits his lifestyle. As regards the store itself, it’s a large space, much bigger than either of the Chicago stores, so there’s plenty of room to show off the full range. I’ve wanted to open a store in the District for a while, the CityCenter project could not have come along at a more advantageous time. We are very confident that our very Paul Stuart-centric ethos will be well received there.
What does the future hold for the brand?
The next logical steps include a complete renovation to our flagship store in Manhattan. It will reflect many of the design elements and much of the technology that we are establishing in the new store. And, although it would be premature for me to announce anything specific as yet, there is certainly additional expansion within the U.S. and international markets in our future. Let’s say we are keeping an eagle eye out for the right locations in other cities. We want to find just the right locations for Paul Stuart, and offer any and all our clientele the very highest level of quality and service to be found anywhere in the world. It is what is expected of Paul Stuart. That is both our philosophy and our legacy. And has been for more than 77 years…
Simon Crompton is an English journalist and author with a passion for classic men’s elegance. He is the founder of Permanent Style (permanentstyle.co.uk) and a regular contributor to The Rake and the Financial Times.
- See more at: https://www.paulstuart.com/blog/only-at-paul-stuart-a-lifetime-in-style#sthash.abe62DVm.dpuf
My friends at Paul Stuart have graciously invited me to take part in their Made to Order Footwear Event (the event actually takes place from October 20th - October 24th) in which they invite their own esteemed manufacturers to the shop that week to help customers create their idealized shoe. The day I’ve been assigned is October 24th, so come by and help me along through the process—give me a shoulder to cry on or something.
The other gents selected: Jake Metzger of Downeast and Out, Skylar Bergl of Four-Pins, Chris Hogan of Off the Cuff, and Robert Twitty of Gents Among Men.
This is the first of a few posts I’ll have in regard to the event—I’ll have a more detailed one in regard to the process, complete with photos. If you have any questions regarding the event, shoot me an email at FenimoreC [at] gmail [dot] com and I’ll see how I can help.
If you’d like to book an appointment (and you really should if you have money to shell out—this is an incredible opportunity to deal closely with one of the most esteemed men’s shops in America and their manufacturers) email [email protected] or click through here to book a time. I look forward to the process and to meeting some of you in the shop!
Beginning Monday, October 20th and extending through Friday, October 24th, Paul Stuart will be host to an elite group of the company’s primary footwear producers at the flagship store on 45th street and Madison in NYC, for an extended Made to Order shopping experience.
This week-long event, in addition to providing customers an opportunity to place individual Made to Order selections, will also afford them a first hand glimpse at the Paul Stuart maxim that ‘Knowledge is Style’ by observing and discussing the myriad elements of the production process with the agents - and skilled artisanal craftsmen - from each of the participating manufacturers. These representatives, beyond simply presenting a wide range of sample models and skins on offer for the event, will also be providing in-store expositions of the cobbler’s craft, ranging from demonstrations of hand burnishing and hand stitching to pattern cutting.
The event schedule for the week will consist of English Modern on Monday the 20th, Italian Classic on Tuesday the 21st, Continental Contemporary on the 22nd, Fashion Forward on Thursday the 23rd, and Refined Tradition on Friday the 24th.
Furthermore, Paul Stuart has invited a group of online menswear style folks to participate in this event and I was fortunate enough to be asked to join. As such, I will be creating my own pair of shoes using the Made to Order program and will be posting about the process from selection of skin and finishes, through to fitting and delivery of the final product.
I am very excited to be a part of the English Modern day of the event on the 20th, and will be at Paul Stuart throughout the morning to talk shoes, menswear, and whatever else comes up. I’d love to meet any of you that can attend the event and encourage you all to take this opportunity to learn more about what Paul Stuart has to offer, and snag a fantastic pair of shoes as well. Make sure to check out OffTheCuffDC.com, four-pins.com, gentsamongmen.com, and christopherfenimore.com for more information on the other daily events.
Those wishing to schedule an appointment during the shoe event or requiring more information can either message me or are invited to call (212)682-0320 (ext 546) or email [email protected]. You can also visit this page to book an appointment.
As yet unshod…
Each day during our New York Made to Order Footwear Event (October 20th-24th), amidst the opportunity for you to peruse an exclusive array of styles and customizable options and in-store expositions of the cobbler’s craft, we’ve also invited a select group of online menswear style influencers to devise their own pair of shoes and chronicle their personal experience via their various Social Media channels.
We’ll be introducing each of these as yet unshod revelers to you this week, and inviting you to follow them through the entire MtO process—from interviews with the manufacturers and the ensuing discourse on the finer points of the artisan shoemaking practice, to the selection of skin and finishes, through their fittings and, finally, the delivery of their shoes.
So, join us next week in New York, check out our Made to Order store windows, interact with the artisans, see the footwear, stay tuned for all the sure-footed online coverage throughout the coming weeks and become an integral part of the social media experience by following our influencers and by tagging @paulstuartny and #paulstuartshoes.
Downeast and Out
Off the Cuff Four-Pins
Christopher Fenimore
Gents Among Men
For information on Made to Order appointments visit
http://bit.ly/PSfootwear-event
