Culture, convenience and community.
Learning about Rwandan culture (and expat culture) this past month or so has been really interesting. As well as discovering things about the way of life here, itâs been teaching me about my own culture. There have been various moments when I feel Rwandan culture clashing with my own Scottish culture. It has been good to have been forced to stop and think about what I do and why I do it. I didnât even realise that I had so many cultural beliefs and practices, but I am realising that I do. For example, having a housekeeper/nanny is the norm here. Our housekeeper is such a gift to us but at the same time it feels very strange to have someone else wash my clothes and look after my daughter!
I guess this is what they call culture shock. I feel quite naive that I didnât think I would have to deal with culture shock particularly. Having visited other East African countries and after having read up on the country a little, I thought I would be familiar enough with Rwanda that it wouldnât be an issue for me. In actual fact, it turns out that I have become quite accustomed to the way of life in 21st century Scotland and that life on another continent is quite different! (You donât say!) It is fun experiencing a new way of being and doing, but it is also very challenging.
Our pace of life has definitely slowed down since weâve moved here. There doesnât seem to be the same sense of urgency and pressure to get things done here. I donât mean that things donât get done, because they do. Rwandans are impressively hard working. What I mean is that people arenât pulled in so many different directions here. In the UK, we have so many things vying for our attention and time. And we want to do as many of these good, fun educational, helpful, sociable things are possible. Here in Kigali, there just isnât the same range of recreational activities to fill up our diaries with.
The lack of certain modern technologies and conveniences is also a big factor in slowing us down. Buying and preparing food here has really changed our pace of life. There are a handful of modest supermarkets across the city, with a few cabinets of refrigerated and frozen foods, and a few small aisles of dried foods, but Iâm used to superstores with aisles and aisles of prepared, packaged and convenience grocery items. Instead, the choice here is small, the food is fresh and needs to be prepared and cooked at home within a day or two. This means we cook simply and eat well. The whole process is just very time consuming but also very enjoyable. I thought I did a fair amount of âcooking from scratchâ at home, but not comparatively to what I am doing now!
A current highlight for me but also a huge challenge is the Kinyarwanda lessons that we are taking twice a week. These are helping us not only learn the language (a Bantu language with different pronunciation and grammar than we as monolingual English speakers are used to) but learn the culture too. Learning certain vocabulary and expressions gives us some insight into how the Rwandan people think and what is important to them. Â
I mentioned that we have also been learning about expat culture. Again, something that I had barely considered before coming out here but something that I am finding fascinating to learn about and experience. The expats that we are meeting and spending time with are such interesting people. Such a range of people from all over the world with amazing stories; families and single people, some who move every couple of years with jobs, some who have been here for decades and others who are here for âshortâ stints like us. I am so thankful for having this instant community and we are really embracing it but living in this community and identifying as an expat has triggered a whole range of emotions.
In particular, it is strange and can feel uncomfortable to be living as expats with a high income and very comfortable living conditions compared to how the average Rwandan lives. Sometimes this leaves us feeling guilty and out of place whilst hoping and striving to make an impact for good. In the UK our household income was comfortably above the average, whereas in Rwanda we have an income of about 15 times the average wage!
There is a complex tension in feeling rich living here but having made sacrifices to get here â we sold a lot of our possessions in the UK to fund the trip and as a volunteer, Peteâs stipend which covers basic living expenses is a huge drop in our household income. Living costs are of course much lower here than in the UK but the lower income still requires us to make simpler and cheaper choices than we are used to. Most noticeably we do not have a car, which has literally slowed our life to walking pace whilst carrying a babyâŠin the land of a thousand hillsâŠin a hot climate! This also means the geographical boundaries of our daily existence are much reduced, again simplifying our life drastically. That being said, we are making friends with many generous expats with cars who give us lifts (the Americans say âridesâ!) all the time.
To try and summarise our thoughts so far, we are loving discovering this beautiful country, doing it slowly in our shrunken walking world, and of course being sustained in this transition by our dear Father God.